shizzzon

i go about reliability and performance of an amp. The amp puts out, no doubt. It's not overrated. It is durable as hell. I know for a fact the Kicker is a higher quality amp just like there is always gonna be a higher quality out there. But in terms of push harder? U cant hear a power difference even if the power varied by a couple hundred watts. I like AP because their Customer service is good, prices are cheap, and performance can't be beaten when comparing the cost.

even at 15ft?

Audiopipe AP30001D. Coming from a competitor standpoint, they are stout enough to survive in the lanes and for everyday use. Stable to 2ohms @3,000w and has been tested by me personally to accept a wired load down to 0.45ohms before rise for burps. It is protection happy that low but doesn't phase it's capability to recover immediately.

The Knukonceptz Konfused battery terminals should NOt be used with high output alts either... How ironic is that? considering how they support 3 1/0 inserts. The material they make the terminal out of is of the poorest conductor to use obviously. Back when i had a 200A measured alt on my car, those terminals would get SCORCHING hot! That's a great indicator of resistance buildup inside the terminal. I make my own terminals now. I would offer the OP some but right now, i dont want to rush myself before i'm ready to start producing them regularly.

i believe those who use cages use 1" square tubing

do i gotta put a lock on it? hehe u think 1\8" thick steel is enough?

I'm not now, no where near, i'm just a couple db over a 150 right now... but the goal for the end of this year is a 160. Actually my goal is over a 160 just for the fact that i dont wanna get a 160 and say i'm done competing.. I just wanna excel.

but 0.1db is a lot when approaching the 160range. Ok then.. I see serious competitors keep resining and sanding over and over again til their score just doesnt increase anymore. I guess i should stick to resining then.

i was thinking of using 1\8" thick steel all the way around and angle iron on the corners. Of course though, a cage only helps on the areas that it is attached at to the enclosure.

i've got a debate goin on about the inside smoothness right now. A longterm competitor told me resin and sanding was the best method of smoothness and reflective properties... What i don't understand is why can't a lay a layer of 1\8" thick Lexan inside of the enclosure? It won't break. It wont crack and is pretty damn smooth and reflective.. and more consistently smooth than sanding is.

I have also thought about using sand but do not know if sand is stronger than oak or 2x4s comparing thicknesses.

i'm afraid concrete will crack because it's so brittle. I was thinking of using concrete bricks from Lowes u use in your backyard but am afraid it may crack overtime.

Well, because i will be removing the weight issue in my car soon, nothing stands in my way now for my next build so i need anyone's opinions on the strongest build u can think of. Any negative thoughts about any methods is 100% welcome as i don't want something that will fail. Here is one method i have been thinking about but remember, i'm looking for the best option(within costs, hehe, dont wanna spend several grand on an enclosure) Option1- Lay 2x4s on their side(so 3.5" thick) all the way around the car. Then inside of this chamber, lay 1 layer of 3\4" Oak inside. Install Angle Iron outside of the enclosure and weld 1\8" thick steel bars to all corners of the Angle Iron and run them around the enclosure. Secure the welded frame to the car. Got any other ideas? I like to keep total thickness under 4.5"

IT'S ON LIKE DONKEY KONG!!! You ever been a competitor that wanted to install in your vehicle but know your car wouldnt support it so u forced to downgrade your install? THAT'S HOW I'VE BEEN TIL NOW... For those that know me, you know i've been battling the weight limit of my car for this new secret build i'm planning on doing... the only real solution is airride but i didnt want to drop $3,000 + install costs just to get louder, u know. hehehehehe, the answer has FINALLY came available for my car. AirLift Tech has finally started marketing their airride kit in sections so i don't have to buy the entire kit. I can install it just for the rear or the front, Rear air ride install = less than $1,000 Now... for those who know me..... guess what i'm planning in my Scion tC..... wha hahaha.... the game has changed and my car should be setting a wicked record not before planned.... All the visions i had of extreme installations has come back into play, Wait til later on this year... this build log will get pretty crazy, I GUARANTEE IT! Team DC Audio... You will like it.

For you to maintain that consistent average pressure in a car that is not permanently modified and completely driveable deserves a BIG congratulations! That's purely awesome work man!

it's not that it won't work.. it's the fact that since it is a liquid, it would be practically impossible to apply a liquid onto a flat surface PERFECTLY with no ripples or imperfections. It would need to be sanded to make it smooth but even then can come imperfections by sanding too much in one area than another. It's almost like i'm being OCD about it but in all seriousness, it needs to be level and smooth as hell. There are many more things i will need to be doin research on inside of the enclosure but this is just one of them. I was talkin to a buddy of mine of being able to run 8awg wire as speaker wire off the sub's terminals WITHOUT them being in the way of airflow at all. An idea i had is to route out a trench in the walls of the enclosure and tuck them down into it then install this sheeting so the wires are visibly gone and out of sight. I'm actually gonna be runnin dual runs of 8awg wire Pos and Neg to each sub. There will be adapters for them to fit because the wire runs are probably gonne be about 15ft long and the subs will be wired in a manner to accept up to 65A of current through the wire for competition and they will need the most wire possible to support this load with the least voltage loss from amp to sub.

I know many people resin but i want to try something that can guarantee a consistent smooth surface such as sheeting. It will be a long time before i do this for the install i want to do it for. I'll go to Lowes tomorrow and look around and talk to them about it and see what else i can find out.

i'm gonna have to stop by lowes and a shop recommended to me that works with different types of glass. someone fill me in on the following if i'm wrong here. Most people resin\sand\resin, etc.. to get that smooth surface as best as possible. This can lead to human error about getting it perfect. Others just use smooth tape. While they also may gain a little, it's not as much as a denser alternative. I believe the reasoning is due to the enclosure flexing. If the enclosure is flexing, then the tape is flexing with it and only helping a little... IF the enclosure is stiff and rigid, externally braced and secured, then a smoother surface that is not structurally supporting the enclosure such as tape may gain more. So people who use dense smoothing techniques are not only smoothing the surface but making it more rigid at the same time. Slightly but still..

here it is- 2010 MECA Rules U just need to focus on the SPL section.

u ever compete in MECA before? Every sanctions rules are different. MECA's classes are FUSED unless you run the highest class in a certain division.

if u feel like drivin to KY, TN, MI, etc... MECA has all kinds of shows there.

forger cone area, go with the option with the most motor. Cone area doesnt help in competition... Pressure is pressure and motor helps more than cone area... proven and proven the more i go to shows...

it accepts 1/0 Kolossus cable so all 1/0-2/0 cables will fit.

Acrylic is plastic sheeting like i was thinkin about... and like u say, there WILL BE SEAMS :( Plexi would be too heavy. I dont think thickness would need to be 1\4".. i was aiming for 1\8" to keep cost down. Anyways, jumping the seams is tricky. I found some stuff online that is suppose to be super lubricated that sprays out. Maybe i could spray that across the seams, i dont know... Up here in South Dakota Menard's carries 4x8 sheets of acrylic sheeting in 1/8" thickness! Not exactly cheap but would eliminate seams other than the where the sheets meet. I found a 6'x3' sheet at lowes for about $47. They claim it's 20x stronger than glass.. Although i dont need it for structural support, it just has to be smooth. I know formica is smooth... but it's pretty $$$ too.

frequency doesnt matter... It's just what gets you the loudest when tuning. My buddies car peaked lower and lower the more he tuned it. He can do a mid 53 at 38hz with a single 18. He used to peak at 47hz. I'm gonna try to start high, as close to 100hz as possible and work my way down until i peak.