shizzzon

DC Power told me that if u run dual alts, they need to both be using the same regulator. If not... then each alternator has to have it's OWN battery bank.

while it may be nice to finish off my collection with every other tool in the world.. some tools like that are just impractical cost-wise for the alternative methods to get the same outcome.

Ok, well here is the results so far from the making of the fuse holder- After using 2 separate bandsaws, a gravity saw and a table type version, the material i'm using just isn't "cutting" it. Because of this, the capability of using 2 different types of fuses for 1 master block will NOT be made... The sketchup will change. There will be 2 versions, a block for ANLs and one for mini-ANLs. They will be as follows- 1/0-4/0 cable- 6-8 inputs\outputs 4awg cable - 8-10 input\outputs ANL fusing version- holds up to 6 ANLs mANL fusing version- holds up to 10mANLs here is a pic of the spacing lugs with the ANL version- They will be mounted on either 1\2" thick Fiberglass or 1\2" thick PVC plate with a Fiberglass covering if requested. The fiberglass cover is red and so is the fiberglass base. the PVC sheeting is gray. All of the bolts are socket caps so you can torq them down pretty good. All holes are fine threads to assist in torqing. All bolts and washers come with the fuse holder. I may also be supplying fuses as well in the near future. I can't show a finished product because the version i made was of the sketchup model and i will not be going that route anymore. These blocks will, as from the pic, be simple shaped, and effective. They will be rated for 1200A continuous this time rather than the 1000A previously. this should be enough for approx 30,000w worth of rated amplifiers using dynamic tracks. I won't have any other pics of the fuse holder until i make some more locally, then i can update the pics of them then. The stock battery buss flats are made but not finished, i'll probably do them after i get back from SBN.

it's an electrical system issue, nothing else. To drop so low it dims lights, that means the alt isn't reacting fast enough to the load or the alt isn't putting out enough current at a given rpm. Regardless... if the alt isn't doin it's job, then the battery may be discharged.... this is what i need to find out.

did u ever meter your voltage? I wanted you to post your voltage numbers so we can see what u have.

it's time to whip out the dmm and check your voltage with the car on. Once u turn the car off, wait about 5hrs before checking the battery's voltage. Otherwise, you'll just read surface charge and that's not the resting voltage.

no it's not, i'll have to space them out later. Unfortunately, i don't have alot of space to do that either. I'm only gonna be able to space them every 19/64th of an inch, that's just over 1\4" per amp. Luckily, i'll be running them at 0.7 ohms now rather than 0.3 ohms... Even when running them ar 0.3, they didnt get all that hot on music. I'm running them at 0.7 now so i can gain my efficiency back since my division is based on fusing so i need all the efficiency i can get.

Ok here they are. I already spaced them out after takin this pic. I'll "try" and install them tomorrow but.. 120lbs of amps n mount isn't light to carry by yourself.

man... u know how many 12v batts u would need! 16v all the way baby! less weight and more power!

Anybody wanna see what over $4,000 worth of AQ amps look like? I'm about an hour or so away from installin em into their enclosure so i can secure them to my false floor in my Scion tC. It's gettin dark so i'll have to take a flash shot of em, hope it turns out good. I wont have any wires ran to them tonight, i'll do that tomorrow i guess.

I've heard people talk about not bumping in your residence but come on... u can't keep your audio system secret forever, people eventually find out. My neighborhood is full of the elderly and police so it's mandatory respect right there. In regards to the security- alarm system with as many sirens as u want to have installed on the inside and out and as many sensors as u can afford, logical sensors. you dont need a prox and window break sensor for instance, get the prox sensor instead. Bullet\breakproof laminate sheeting on all glass(except windshield). Insure as much stuff as your insurance company will allow. Also, the more professional an install is, the harder it is to steal so vandalism is the only thing you really have to worry about when dealing with a nice install. Install amps under false floors. Securely mount batteries. I like to mount my batteries on top of amps, who steals batts? even when mounted? bolt speaker box to car from the inside of the box. Simple things, no need to go the route of using specialty screws for every connection point...

it does exactly what it says it does, i've got a local that runs one, soon to be two. I've pulled just over 1,400w out of one at 6.2ohms and that's pretty amazing. For people who like to link low, even though they are only 2 ohm stable in bridge mode, there protection circuit allows playback down until 1.37ohms. Curious as to what power it does that low, hehe, although probably wouldnt matter... efficiency would probably be crappy as hell.

i know the 6500 doesnt... i dont know about the 10000 or the 15000...

2ohm stable amp like kicker or an internally bridged amp like the audiopipe ap30001d would work safely on that sub.

Alloy 1100 or a slightly altered version Alloy 1145 is outstanding for conductivity! However, it does come at a price! If you want to save money and go with a less conductive material, you can use alloy 6061. Alloy 6061 is approximately 20% less conductive so you will need to increase thickness to compensate. It is true that bars can handle more current with more surface area but i don't know how wide you would like to go to compensate for thickness, hehe. I usually like to go no wider than 2".

Audiopipe AP18001D rated at 1800w @1ohm can be had for under $300 for sure, sometimes under $200 shipped and is less than 7" wide.

this is JUST for the amps :) each run is gonna be less than 3 ft. I don't think i'll have a voltage problem... not with 100ft of wire

i adjust that filter based upon maximum mechanical movement of the sub itself. That is a preference filter in my opinion as long as you pay attention to what you are doing. Choose a low note that you want to be able to play without it bottoming out. Me, i personally choose 24hz as anything below that.. eh... is pointless for the music i listen to which also includes slowed music. Set volume to maximum listening level, set subsonic ALL THE WAY UP and play the low note tone. while it's playing, gradually turn the filter back down until the subs have reached the maximum movement you wish for them to move and that's it. that's how i do it. Never had problems doin it this way.

also, the sub needs NOT be connected to anything to keep it simple

the ones i buy are usually in the $25-30 range. the last one i bought, soon as i got home, noticed the vAC function doesnt even work... figures... I ALWAYS get the screwed up dmms... I have another one that can't read resistance or vDC... then i got a free one that doesnt read any volts or resistance... Kinda makes me wonder if Rd Audio is behind the engineering

i gotta buy a new dmm like every few months... It seems Sears' dmms under $50 are crap... either that or i'm too loud since i keep em all in the car. only i have problems with reliability though.. it's prob the 155db+, lol

let's look at all the uses a $20 item can do and see why people don't need them.. They can determine if you received the right speaker. They can determine if the coils are damaged. They can determine if a battery is discharged and needs charging. They can determine if your voltage regulator is working properly. They can determine if any power wire runs are shorted to ground by accident. They can determine if a fuse is good or not. They can help in tuning an amp to a certain extent. They can help measure output of an amp but requires more than just a DMM. They can help measure voltage drop issues. They can help find resistance issues with voltage drop from the front to the rear of the car so you can isolate where the problem is occurring. They can help measure voltage levels inside the house and frequency to determine if you have a faulty outlet or wiring in the house. So with these common problems... you are probably right.. you don't need one.

yea man, the night before casper, my termlab must have been on crack cuz all the readings it was giving me was literally pissing me off because it made no sense.

ok, had time today to get the REAL basic meter specs off my new wall i built since i never had time to do it. I don't have an official meca stand so i gotta do everything in the kick for a consistent reading. This is with no deadening, no bracing, no precise tuning, CAR OFF and voltage well under 12v pulling ~800A of current off 1 D3100 and 1 D5100 (~175aH) My headrest to kick score is 2-2.2db difference last time i checked. Kick score off 320A of fusing- 155.7dB\Head - ~should be at least a 153.0db Using 3 15s and 3 AQ3500ds Last score with old wall- 4 15s and 4 AQ3500ds Tuned with car ON at head- 153.4db :) Looks like i'm right where i was last time... but with no tuning, deadening, bracing... I got's me some work to do, I'll be getting a head score this friday night.

no, higher than that. I used to use 2500w amps and i used to set them up with no load on them... I then moved up even higher and was told not to do it on amps that high. It might not be all amps in the general high power classes... i'm not an amp tech so i dont know.. just referring information. I wish someone like db-r or someone else who would know for sure could comment on why because all i was told was the broad side version of it.... nothing precise.