shizzzon

yea, i was gonna do the multi-insert thing first but something came up and the tooling cost went WAY OUT the window so i'm tryin to find another vendor that can get me what i need for a lot cheaper so i can make them a LOT cheaper than what they are being made for now.

oh, you are thinkin of the multi insert blocks i'm making too... That picture is of the fused-distribution block i will be making rated for ~1,100A of continuous current pass-flow. That's why there are inputs\outputs, it's a fused distro block. the multi-inserts i have put back on the table for a while and am gonna be focusing on these, non fused blocks and buss bars for stock and aftermarket batteries.

OK, here it is- Input lines are on the left, Output lines are on the right-

it's thick ass aluminum block. This is to keep the cost down. I will be getting in some raw painted sheets of fiberglass that the blocks will be glued to. the fiberglass will be the base for these blocks and there will be a cover for them as well made of fiberglass. I havent seen them in person yet but the base and covering should be painted red. If i went with copper.. the price would skyrocket. aluminum is just fine for this current. The block's dimensions that i know of right now are as follows- 6.5" wide x 5.5" long(from input to output) x ~3" tall. I'll try and make a sketchup of it, good idea.

Ok, i'm bout to start testing the fused distribution blocks before being released but before i do, i need some opinions... I've already gotten feedback on how many inputs\outputs this block should have and what type and how many fuses it should be able to hold. Please remember- THESE ARE MASSIVE FUSE BLOCKS. I'm not making blocks that are already marketed. These are for the high powered users. The following is what it will have- 5 Inputs \ 5 Outputs All ring terminal connections. Accepted terminals- 4awg, 2awg, 1awg, 1/0, 2/0, 3/0, 4/0. Fuse information- Accepts BOTH mini-ANL and ANL fuses! It will accept up to 4 ANLs and up to 5 mini-ANLs at the same time if necessary. The next step is current capability- Most marketed fuse blocks are only rated at ~300A continuous. Multi insert blocks can be rated as high as 500A continuous but anything higher than that.. it's unknown what they are rated for... So, how much current should this massive fuse block be rated for? Remember, this is continuous current, not peak current. The fuses will still blow before the block burns because i am going by the current rating of the least amount of heat increase. You have a range of 500-2000A. I will say that 2000A of current is almost impractical BUT... you can always choose it... it would just be pretty $$$, hehe. I can also go above 2000A but i think that's irrational, lol. I have been thinking about going with a rating of 1,100A. If that sounds reasonable.. then i'll keep it at that. Also... what is the ideal pricing of such a massive block? how much do you think a block with 5 inputs, 5 outputs that accepts any large sized wire with up to 9 fuses would normally cost? I'm trying to get some ideas goin so this will fit nicely.

aqx3500.1

well i got a question... What is the actual voltage that these electric vehicles use? I thought it was a lot higher than 12v... Is it not?

i dont know about Nissan's policies but Toyota states that a warranty can only be void if a failure occurs and is found to have been caused by something that the manufacturer did not do. For instance- i put a wall in my scion tc. If my driver seat's sensors failed.. they'd fix it. Now, if my suspension system failed... they wouldnt... Hell, i've even gotten them to replace some weather stripping around my car that came loose from the vibrations, hehe.

haha, that must be a huge list!

that's right! for daily use, i do NOT suggest using these. Audio companies are marketing amps with the proper amount of connections and the right size for daily use. Very select few companies do not but none that are sold here so no need to worry. I will DEFINITELY have a before and after test. I will be using a 3,500w amp for the test so that should be sufficient enough and on stock alternator and limited battery for bad scenarios, If the before and after are terrible or have no difference.. I will only make those accessories that are required for other uses.

well... after doin some thinkin, i'm gonna be doin more than just block inserts... I'm gonna be working on the following- dual wire runs from amp that use 1/0 insertsbuss bars or buss flats(bars that only connect to 1 point for a single battery) for screw posts.buss flat for stock battery post(bar sits lower than post so guaranteed to fit)Massive non fused distribution blockMassive fused distribution blockSubwoofer flatsI'd like to get some comments\suggestions on what they'd like to see in a distro block. The fused block's input and output section are bridged together because they are both solid blocks. Both sides would accept up to 5 massive ring terminals up to 4/0(not 4awg, hehe) per side! The connection between them will be tapped to accept BOTH ANL and mini-ANL fuses. A total of 5-6 fuses capable. The distribution block will be rated for an insane ~1,000A-1,500A of CONTINUOUS current capability. Most distribution blocks on the market are only rated for 300A and some industrial blocks are rated up to 700A to give you an idea. The non fused block is basically just a square flat full of multiple connection points. ALL blocks- fused, non-fused, battery terminal flats- they all connect via ring terminals ONLY for better holding. After talking about this for a while, i also decided to start doin some quick testing with Subwoofer flats. These little pieces will slide directly into the push terminals and output via a flat bar to connect the speaker wire too via ring terminal. The pieces will allow voice coil configuration changes from parallel to series and a more secure connection without fraying. Stay tuned for some updates next month.

lol, i've seen some unnecessary wire runs in my time, hehe. The block for the AQ owner was done by a guy that charged way too much.... I dont like that. The aluminum block that had 8 runs per was installed in a soundigital 12kd amp. Copper is many times more conductive for one and can be made smaller without looking bulky.

This wouldnt be really recommended for those who do not compete so I'll tell you now that this isn't necessary or needed for normal use of an amplifier. But for those who want the most out of their amps on the meter, read on... I am going to be getting into some projects soon for the car audio comp world and start making my own everything... I have several plans laid out for the competition world and for starters, i plan on making some multi insert wire blocks. Basically what it is is this- (for amps that accept 1/0 inserts only at this time) It would be a block of copper that inserts into the amp's power\ground terminal then outputs in a manner that can accept 2 ring terminals efficiently of ANY size as long as the outer diameter of the ring terminal itself is no wider in diameter than 1". 2/0 ring terminals are just under 7/8" wide to give you an idea. This block is capable of handling loads of ~600A continuous PER insert so this block is safe and plenty capable of being used. The purpose of the inserts is to give the user the capability of running multi wires to an amp just like competitors do to\from their batteries. This will help get as much power out of your amp as possible. There is a user on another forum selling these for almost $70 a set(2 inserts per amp for power\ground) but i can guarantee that they will not be that expensive, lol. I will be testing these for smaller inserts later on but since most people use 1/0 inserts, i'm focusing on that first. I was gonna experiment with multi speaker wire runs but i find it completely unnecessary so don't ask, I will be doing before and after tests of current draw and voltage drop at the amp before and after using these inserts to see the difference. I hope to prove the use of these in real world.use. It will be a couple weeks before the first small batch is made and if successful performance-wise, i'll start making loads of these. I have plans for 3 different ways of making these work so i gotta see which ways, if any, is not a good choice for the masses.

u can't have a complete circuit if you remove the ground off the battery because the ground has been removed out of the car. When you remove that wire, u can sit there and touch the power and ground to each other all day long on the amp and nothing will happen. I don't really understand why you guys think it's so bad to do this because back when i first got started in audio several years ago, lots of manuals to equipment i bought always said to install ground wire last so that's what users would do.

nah, i seen somewhere else it's pronounced as in "hifi"

Um... if removing the ground wire first from an installation is the wrong thing to do... Then what's the difference in removing the ground from the chassis vs removing the ground off the starting battery? Once the ground on the starting battery is removed, ALL grounds from all equipment in the car has been removed.... So, should we remove the fuse box out of the car before unhooking the battery? That doesn't make sense... I think some of you or i have misinterpreted what he meant by removing the ground....

1150CAs on that tractor batt is pretty good. Are they brand new batts because if they aren't.. i'd pass.

man... according to my meter and the way the car is acting to the wall.. i dont know what's up... Meter says i'm not even breakin a 149 now... I dont know whats up. I hope it's wrong. If i do meter low at the show... i'm gonna cancel the next show or 2 and figure out why i'm failing all of a sudden... Last minute tuning suck and i may be a victim of a bad one.

the majority of the powr amps will receive power is from the alternator. Once that is depleted, it's the rear batteries. The front battery in my experience doesnt contribute that much because it's not in the path of least resistance!

something weird is happenin with my meter.. I hope it's the meter and not my score... Anyways.. because of it, all the testing i did tonight is kinda wack.... I dont really know what's best to do and they wont have 2nd passes on saturday so if i dont place within the top 3... oh well... I think after this show i need to take some time off and venture into what my new wall is doing for me cuz something is odd with it.

no, u should run from the alternator to the starting battery to the solenoid to the rear battery(ies). I have no idea why he thinks to run to the solenoid... But again, tell him that even though the charging cable is ran over the starting battery first, it WILL NOT ACCEPT CURRENT unless the battery is not fully charged! If that were the case.. then the starting battery would ALWAYS be pulling current into itself. If you want to test this theory then do this- Start your car then drive around for about 5-10minutes so the alt can charge the starting battery back up from the crank you just did. Now come back home and put car in park but leave car running. Get an ammeter and measure how much current is coming off the alternator's charging cable. Now measure the current coming off the starting battery's factory power cable. Subtract the difference and the remainder should be going to the starting battery... which isn't much. If he still doesn't understand\believe... ask him how i run over 10,000w of power on a stock alternator, stock battery and 2 extra batteries in the back with 2 200A solenoids in parallel(that's for use of an aftermarket alternator). The answer is- i onyl go to competition and blast for short periods. The battery's hold their capacity well. I pull about 1,100A of current for 1-2 seconds then let the stock alt charge all 3 batteries back up. that alternator isn't stressing because we tested it doing 58A at idle max and it only puts out 33A right after a blast it. 3.9A is what goes to the rear batteries so it doesnt phase them a lot. There is ONLY 1 type of load i am aware of that exists without the user knowing it and that's battery charging... That should be the only excuse of thinking current is being dispersed out of the alternator all the time... If the batteries are all charged up.. then there is no demand for current output of the alternator except for what's running the car. I've had people at Auto Zone tell me that there should be a se;arate charging cable running from the alternator to EACH battery in the car... HAHAHAHA That's wrong! That's why Auto Zone isn't in the car audio field. If that were true... then alternator's charging post would be like 6x taller than a battery post... impractical. IF he wants some more input... go here- www.dcpowerinc.com and give your dad their phone number. Let Dave tell your dad all about how it's setup.

I am going to the show... As long as they dont bitch about my wiring... i'll be competing.

The new wall is in and the amps are working... I hope the Carl Casper show doesnt give me crap over my wiring of the amps... I havent changed my wiring in all the shows i've been too and even had the commissioner verify it one time and passed... I was told by a competitor at the last show that they would make me disassemble the whole trunk to prove i'm not cheating.... I don't think so... I do not have time to rebuild the trunk in a day... I should be able to prove to them by removing the fuses in the fuse block and showing them the amps wont come on... simple as that. If they refuse this common knowledge... then i'll leave the show due to their stupidity but hopefully that competitor that told me that isn't 100% literal. Anyways, i got my peak note i'm gonna work with so i got one day to try and tune this thing as best i can for the show saturday, lol One day.. that's a lot... Actually 3hrs.... i still gotta work too.

Information and Knowledge? That's my guess...

if u are wondering in what order you connect your rear batteries up... do this as it will help alot- When installing fuse blocks, leave all the fuses out of the blocks and go ahead and connect all wires including grounding everything to the car's frame. That way, the only connections left are to install the fuses. They will probably spark but at least it's here at the fuse block and not on the battery's terminal. If you had a short and you connected the grounding wire to a battery with fuses in place.. that post would be arcing like crazy, i've seen it happen... NO.. not me... but is funny to watch, scares the crap out of people.