shizzzon

yep, it's coming in raw

oh and for those wondering.... this amp IS more powerful than- Phoenix Gold The ONE SPL Dynamics version AB AB1100.1 Cactus Sounds K9 Welcome to the big power... Coming in late March

some more info has been released. The amp will go for $1999 shipped. The amp is rated with the following known so far- On very clean output levels- 1500w @4ohm 3000w @2ohm 6000w @1ohm' These ratings were done on a solid 12v load. The 14.4v loads were tested and with slight increase in THD will give a tremendous boost in power! @1ohm on 14.4v, expect a MINIMUM of 12,000w. Since AQ rated this amp for USACI (they go by amp ratings), the amp's other output levels will not be publicly posted to defeat the purpose. It is expected to do 20,000w @18v though. Expected full potential on a 14.4v system is somewhere between 13-16,000w on high THD.

with a box that big, mass loading alone is not good enough as that's what i gather you are about to have done only. If this is for daily use, brace opposite pieces to each other on all sides and join in the center.

did somebody mention backup sub? While i may have extra subs lying around... i never consider them a backup in terms of a quick replacement in competition even if it's the same model and size. When i test prior to going to competition, everything is set the way it needs to be as if i were competing on the spot. I never worry bout these subs getting damaged, they are well built! If i ever needed to run another pass because someone is beating me by a hair... i have some settings i can retune to possibly get louder... I never tend to use it first because i never have found it necessary. I have got the baffle pieces cut... The baffle pieces have now been trimmed and do fit back in the wall so that's good. The baffle pieces are now all marked and ready to be routered so no more measuring... Once they are cut, they must be glued n painted. I will have to modify some of my allthread runs for some future mods to the wall before i reinstall this new baffle. I am about to order me some $60 worth of pure aluminum stock so i can make my own massive fuse holder. It should be rated for roughly ~1500A continuous so that's plenty of heat dissipation capability. This weekend... i will find out what the wall is tuned to bare with no port mods. I will work off of this information first and for kicks... i will post a score at the head when i do. hopefully i'll have a stand on hand so it's official... Otherwise.. i'll cheat and put it in the kick, lol. Either way.. i'm gonna be attempting to break a 160 in the kick soon... i'm not saying when either.

yes but i'm pretty sure u will also need to block the top part inside the box too...

flush with the baffle has nothing to do with it. the inner wall on the top part of the port should have never been 1 piece per side. It should have been cut in pieces and only about 50% of those pieces glued on. That gives the port wall gaps... The port plug was suppose to get those pieces you didn't attach to the port wall so the port plug could literally slide into the top port section filling the gaps that were left out... So.. since that isn't done u can think up somethin, just don't shrink the port area.

no, not screw, cut the existing inner top port . thats the one that suppose to have the slits alreeady cut in it

ah dont worry, its nothin fancy, just louder hopefully

that means the inner layer in the port that's in there now needs those slits.

if i get my build done in time, i'll be goin to the Loudest in Louisville on 2-19-10. I'm gonna try and own my position in this city if i got time to do it. I got my baffle pieces cut, all 3 of them... but that's it. I'm gonna spend tomorrow cutting them in the shape they need to be to fit back in front of the wall... It will be thursday or friday when i actually route all sub cutouts since it won't be snowing anymore by then. I am kinda stuck right now with other things and hope i get done in time... I still need to order buss bars and some more power\ground cable.

this pic right here- The top part of the port is suppose to be double layered BUT... the inner layer of the port is suppose to have slits cut out so a plug can slide in there and rest inside of the slits.

holy jesus!, r u back jay?

the slits were recommended to allow a plug to easily slide into the top and rest there. IF you can use an alternate method in plugging it then that's fine.

lol, we have our own cheering section, hehe.

ok, it's $60 per person non member and $55 per person MECA member. We will have to pay for parking too and again on sunday if we leave saturday night.

Image Dynamics. Can't rememver model number but they are rated at 100wrms.

Yay! We the only 2 people, lol. Hey, i've never been before so i'm assuming u have and gots a couple questions... Do we still pay for parking even if we aren't using their lot outside? And where do we go to get into the building? It says it's in the West Hall but i've never competed there, just spectated so i'm lost.

well as u can see... i dont create a new build log for each setup i go through.. this is more like a car log, lol.

Jesus Christ! If you did i forgot... I've never seen 3\4" have problems so i dont think 1" would ever be necessary.

3\4" is all i use and recommend. If you need anything smaller, wooden dowels is fine. 1\4 and 1\2" rod tend to bow at long runs.. 3\4"... eh, not quite.

Welcome's you to America's Largest Car Show every year! For more info - Carl Casper Official Web Site If you live close enough to the area, you may be invited to the Loudest in Louisville event 2-19-10 to prove yourself to see who's the loudest around this area. This is one of the largest and strictest MECA events every year. This show is extremely huge! Who's coming?

maybe that's why the europeans are crazy loud

u sure u arent crossing both terminals with each other when wiring in series? I hope this looks right when i type this... Do u have it wired like this> + - ../ + - (the dots mean nothing) that leaves one + on 1 side and a - only on the other.

nope still as strict as ever. Yep, the new tuning design for this wall is gonna be nice for me anyways. I won't post pics of it until after Casper but i can tell you the concept behind the idea. Our vehicles have a unique frequency they will peak at... People who know this will find it and go, BAM!, that's the note i will peak at forever and ever... Well, now let's look at it like this- Vehicles have cabin gain. This simply means putting a box in the car will be louder than in an open environment. A particular peak note in a car would, obviously, be using the most cabin gain to achieve such a peak. MECA allows peak notes between 20-100hz to be used. How many competitors have actually measured their cabin gain throughout this range? I don't know but i can assure you not many based on the installs i've seen, Let's say a car peaks at 45hz. what about the other notes that were retrieved when that user measured his cabin gain? Sure the other notes are lower in gain... but many people don't look at it from this perspective- Build a sealed box for a single subwoofer and place it in an open environment. Start playing 35hz then 36hz and so on til you reach 100hz. With every increase in frequency, the pressure should rise. Now, let's build 70 different ported boxes(not really, lol) tuned between 31-100hz. Every time you increase tuning in a ported box, the pressure will rise in an open environment as well, just like a sealed box but ported is many times more peaky than sealed. but... there is a catch... Every time you increase tuning, you also increase turbulence inside the port... This is why you don't just tune to peak at 100hz and be done with it! If your peak note in the car was 45hz, you tune to 40hz to peak at 45 using 150sqin of port for 2 subs, for example, tuning to 50hz will drop for 2 reasons... 1- cabin gain roll off 2- port not big enough! That's right! Port not big enough. Because higher tuning increases turbulence with the same port area, it's necessary to increase port area when higher tuning is achieved. This is why it's not easy to just go, i'm tuning to 90hz and i'll win... that's not the case. So, how big of a port area is needed for such high tuning? Well too many factors... It might be calculated but trial and error is the best way. If you have the room to use a massive port area, you can then attempt to use a new note to peak at. So why not just use the car's note with massive port area? Because the port length for such install would be ridiculous! So higher tuning is suggested, LOT higher. By having enough port area AND a helluva gain from the design itself, it can actually produce more pressure vs the car's peak note. Let's say the note you want to burp at is 85hz but it's 12db lower than your car's peak note. Simply put, if the port area is large enough for this note to keep turbulence REAL LOW, as long as you can achieve an increase over cabin gain of 12.1db or more, you can then "create" a new peak in your car and get louder on the meter. The major drawback to such build is port area... It's crucial that it's large enough. that's what makes it so hard to accomplish. That's how this new design is. It will take lots of testing to HOPEFULLY allow me to find a new note to use. A car's peak note can only get you so far if you got a small cabin like me. Sometimes you just gotta start back over and force a new note in to play.