shizzzon

that's typical a sign the alt is pulling too much horsepower out of the vehicle and may also not be strong enough at idle. because of this, i'd also start testing your batts and see if they are staying charged.

wow, they really only 50A? My car only pulls 9.5A. That's with no heater and no lights on. I havent measured it with those on. You don't need a smaller pulley, lol. All that's gonna do is give you higher amperage at slightly lower rpms and with a stock alt, they do pretty good idle output compared to their max output. A smaller pulley will not make the alt produce an overall higher output, that's impossible. It's still a 50A alt. I'd install the amp but take it easy. Measure battery's voltage everyday for the next week couple hrs after the car has been off so the surface charge won't interfere with the reading. If the battery's voltage is reading 12.7 or lower then you need to be careful as the alt isn't keepin it fully charged. Also when driving below ~1,000rpm, don't be experimenting with current draw, keep it down at low speeds.

i'm gonna send u a design tomorrow, havent forgot.

listen to KU40, i've got a buddy locally who had the same issue, when he cranked it up, the sub would start moving and sound weird but then his sundown 3000d would go into protect after about 4 seconds of it doin that. he has a Pioneer head unit and if u do too, then u may fall into this category has Pioneer's are NOTORIOUS for what i'm about to say- The preouts on many pioneer units somehow screw up and lose their ground and need to be grounded physically... There is no external professional way of doin this so if u wanna solder a wire (that's if this is the problem) from the rca's outer shield to a physical ground, then do it. To find out if it is, take a wire, hold it to a known ground point in the car then touch the other end to the outer shell of the rca output on the head unit during high volume level.

i would vote sundown definitely! According to jake, the new Zs that he is workin on were just as loud as his "monster" sub was that's gonna be an insane subwoofer all the way up to 2,500w. Not sayin you are gonna be using these for competition, but from what i understand, the Z is a well rounded sub for almost any type of music that i would know. I like AQ's equipment, but these two subs do not compare. Honestly, nothing AQ has compares to the Z.

I've already built 2 systems with that chip so far so i've got some OC knowledge about that design. If you ever interested in really seein the performance increases your setup can do, let me know. You 're gonna need a Thermalright Ultra 120 xTreme Black Edition with 1 fan for it. DO NOT GET THE COPPER VERSION! (if u do, you must lay the pc down on it's side as it's too heavy) Anyways, that heatsink + fan holder and fan is gonna run bout $100 so if u wanna consider oc-in it, just let me know. You got the right type of board to do it. We can push your FSB up from that 1333 to over 1600 and that will allow your memory read\write speeds to sky rocket even when maintaining stock speeds. Also, if you haven't been tinkerin with your BIOS memory settings yet, your memory may only be runnin at 1333 as well since the SPD values will always default memory speeds to a slower speed than rated.(bastards, lol). I just wouldn't suggest OC'ing with stock fan, not a godo idea on Intel chips. On AMD you can cuz they overrate their speeds drastically.. therefore they run cooler at their "supposed" speeds. If you want, you can always bump your memory speed up to it's 1600mhz rated speed on stock equipment, i just wouldnt do anything else until the cooling system has been upgraded.

i dont know, i do both. Good thing there isn't OC competitions locally or it may be a challenge.

pshhh... I run all my computers vented, and yes they are louder that way, Yea, if that game can run with only 1gb fo memory, then that's not a true game in nowadays games. The new call of duty MW2 uses 2.2gb of memory just on typical idle use and over 3gb during gameplay. For someone with only 1gb, you'd be runnin that game in 100% swap file... then the game would run slllloooooooooowwwwwwwwwwwwww Here's a hint for gaming- Build it great, OC the hell out of it, FSB and memory speed increases 1st, then oc the hell out of the cores.... Lastly, get the biggest dual channel kit you can get (4gbx2) for example. the more sticks you use in an OC machine, the harder it is to OC the RAM and the voltage levels set in the BIOS must be dispersed to all dimms rather than just a pair and things start to get twitchy. If you need more than 8gb, get some FAST ass memory! The less you gotta OC when filling up the dimms the better on the stability. Lastly, get more memory than u need, then SHUT OFF Virtual Memory and have a field day.

um... the answers fell into the toilet?

from what i've discovered, the best cameras to use for recording are what some people call- Video Cameras. These devices primarily focus on the capability of recording video for well over a full hour as well as audio and spends less time focusing on taking pictures, Those waves you see in videos are people using their picture cameras and cell phones. These devices RARELY record at 29.97fps and therefore result in awkward playback. A true video camera or any device capable of recording at 29.97fps(or may be advertised as 30fps) is what you need.

i just checked out the requirements to play that game... Minimum requirements is a single core system around 2ghz and 512mb of ram... That's a joke nowadays because games today require a LOT more than that. IF he's gettin 145fps with that pc, then he definitely isn't running in High Definition... There's no way.

pc games that only support single core systems will perform awesome on chips like these that are OC'ed. Newer games that support dual core will still allow you to play with this system... but i imagine under intense video demands, if this board doesnt' support PCI-2x16, then i wouldnt dump any money into upgrading video.

if u are gettin it for no more than 150 then i'd say get it, otherwise turn away. The Foxconn boards that are capable of using that processor mostly support just Athlon FX chips and older. What you have is a Sempron Socket 939 chip. IT might\should be 64bit which is good but those boards max out around 4gb on the memory so it's kinda pointless for 64bit purposes. It depends on what you wanna do on the computer. If u plan on doin some new age gaming.. skip it. Those boards do not support newer technology and will limit you right off the start. If your goal is just to have a pc to use, then it's fine. Yes it can do gaming, just don't get too attached to it for gaming. GSkill memory is pretty damn good when OC'ed. That FSB speed appears to be OC'ed which is makin me wonder what the settings are. Get in the BIOS and see what the processor runs at temp-wise after 60 seconds. It should be idling kinda low like around 100F-115F. If it's idling lot higher than that, the cooling system needs maintenance or replacing. I would then put it under load (Prime95)once in windows for about 60 seconds with a temp monitor such as coretemp. If temps approach or exceed 67C, STOP the stress test and recheck OC settings which probably exist and cooling system. Also, check and see if the board can shut the system down if it overheats too and if it can have it do it right around 70C. This is all i can tell u without knowing what it's to be used for.

yep, because i'm not an engineer and i cant explain the details inside if asked as i have been before.

I do not like them and i could try and explain why but that would turn into a very long and drawn out debate that i dont feel like getting into. It's the same principle about how the Stetsoms are which i dont like either. For all the technical history and all that, i would get ahold of snoopdan as he knows more about the tech than i do. He could get more down in depth of why we don't like em. Basically, anybody can say what they want, even the owner of the company, but the point is these amps should not be used and\or expected to be used for longterm musical applications and capable of outputting the power that they are rated for. I've talked to 2 different electrical engineers about it as well back when SounDigital was all hype back then. You shouldnt try and get 8,000w out of a single run of cable. When things like this get brought up, there is always comments like- Well people don't listen to music that loud so you won't ever run our amps like that or... Music is dynamic so there's nothing to worry about... the fact is people DO listen to music that loud, lots of music people listen to have solid tones in them for several seconds or even constantly! For a single run of cable, voltage drop will occur with that much power on their high powered amps. Why do u think that a competitor that ran several of there 12k amps made a connection system to run 8 runs of power and 8 runs of ground PER amp! Now why would you need to modify the amp's inputs just to get steady stable voltage input? And that's just for burping, i'm not even on constant use. Just let an electrical engineer look at the specs and ask him if he would feel confortable trying to run that much power even for a few seconds with a single run of cable. Sure fusing will be there but expect some voltage drop issues to occur.

hey, before u upload any more pics, make em a little bigger, they all are as small as words,

ok, here is design i came up with. I haven't put the port length in there because i do nto know if u want to be able to manually tune this for competition or just have 2 preset ports made for this wall. Let me know so i can finish that part.

yea, i'd suggest more power too but it's his call. I like to do 16sqin of port per cube for daily but comp use i go lots bigger! I usually like to go for 24sqin per cube minimal and 32sqin per cube optimal. I'm workin on his wall right now actually. I might change it but as of right now, he might be gettin anywhere between 320-380sqin of port for comp use and ~200sqin for daily.

do NOT try and charge a dead battery with an alternator, that's never suggested. The easiest and cheapest way would be to take it to autozone and have them charge it for you for free. Continuous high current charging from any alternator can kill it. also, depending on where you live, if it is completely dead, do not charge it at or below freezing.

it says 7 business days not 7 days

it says up to 7 business days, not 7 days.

no it's in the doors. The wire that feeds in is ran along the sides of the wall completely covered in expanding foam. Once i tear the wall down, everything, and i mean everythign is coming out, even the headliner. The car will be rebuilt and reinforced for a new box design.

I have a wall... I can't run anymore wire from front to rear until i tear it down. I only have a single run of speaker wire on each side of the car.

well since i dont have one what happens.. I say it's ok because it won't thermally hurt when it's instantaneous.... Unless your point is to prove that wrong...

how am i suppose to do that? Like u say, rapid changes will be impossible to detect on an oscope.. However, speaking of music, because music has peaks, it's likely possible for equipment to clip without worry when it's just caused from peaks.