shizzzon

that's fine but in reality, you could even have it wired at 1 ohm and still control the amp and possibly preout voltage levels from the head unit to prevent overpowering a speaker. It's now how much you have but how you use it. I bet you could wire it to 4ohm and still kill it... it's all in your control in how you use your equipment.

someone made a topic about this a while back about clipping indicator accuracy and i went out to my car with an oscope and found on my audioque amps, the clip light would start to light up just before you could even visibly see the square wave forming on the scope. It wasn't until the clipping indicator was fully red til the square wave was finally visible on the scope.

Off my cell phone now, reading will be more legible, lol. While you are correct, that is the perfect way, and i can do this later on down the road, right now i cant. Besides, i'd rather do something i've never done before and just know how to do it. Just somethin for fun. After i tear my wall down later on this year.. then i can run all the active i want.

well i am gonna use a 4 ohm woofer and 8 ohm tweeter. i will run them active first so i can establish my xover points then go from there. if there is one that fits my needs then yes, i will buy one. if i havve to build one, i am still tryin to figue out how i am going to enclose it inside of something... you got any suggestions for that?

ok, basically i need loud and i want to be able to get the full use out of my 100.4 sundown bridged for doing it. I decided to go the Pro Audio route and find me some 6.5s that are capable of handling the 300wrms i want to throw at them. the lowest recommended response i've found for some high powered 6.5s go down to 110hz which is fine for me. This setup is for a certain division in spl competition where the music must be able to be heard while the bass is being mesured. I decided to use a single pair of 6.5s in the doors and 1" soft dome tweets. I haven't looked for tweets yet because i wanted to venture over to the crossover section and get some info first. So u can see i'm not lookin for harmony but when reading about how some caps can easily cause distortion, i'm not familiar with what i am being told so if this distortion is audible from using bad qualiy caps then that's a no-go because this front stage is also used for light musical playback as well. Light meaning low to moderate volume levels. My current setup is a set of ID 6.5s CTX65CS - CTX65CS - Image Dynamics 6.5" Component Speaker System While i do like the sound of this component set, i needed it to be louder as well and it just wasn't gonna happen. I like to know how to build these in general regardless as something else to do if i ever have\want to.

I've been doin some research about this so if i make a mistake, let me know. I got a chart from the12volt that lets me know what inductors and capacitors to use for a desired slope and roll off and diagrams for slope configurations. I also know what VDC one should shoot for based upon power used. Now, i would like to start studying the parts themselves. I'm starting with capacitors first. From what i'm reading, for high quality, low distortion use, to use caps that start with poly-... preferably polystyrene film caps. I would like to purchase all my parts from partsexpress.com and these are the ones they offer- Audiocap Theta Polypropylene Film Auricap Metallized Film Dayton Metallized Polypropylene Dayton Film and Foil Polypropylene Jantzen's Crosscap Which should i use for the lowest distortion possible. If there are any other features i need to look at besides low distortion, let me know! I already know about tolerance % ratings. Also, I read this from Richard Clark- He says regardless of what cap to use, he suggests using a bypass cap specifically made of polystyrene cap @ 0.01mf soldered with the tweeter crossover cap to lower distortion at it's greatest. Now, i have many questions about this.... Do you guys think it's a good idea when using one of the 5 caps above? When building a 12 or 18db slope, should i install a bypass cap to both tweet caps or just the first one? Clark also states to install a safety cap in place to protect the tweeter.... safety cap is calculated by halfing the crossover frequency of a 6db configuration and using that figure as the safety cap.. Now, how am i to build a 12 or 18db slope using a safety cap? He never really explained that. I think that's it for cap talk i can think of right now. After i get all this info down, i'll be lookin into inductors next.

yes i was afraid of that. Well, what exactly would i need to upgrade for increased strength?

Anybody know how much weight a door on a 2door car can handle before it would start to stress or sag over time? I may plan on doin a lot of liquid deadening to it for competition and that alone will add some weight to it.... Then later on down the rode i may decide to remove the factory door panel and replace with a full custom mold with a couple speakers in it... If what i want to do in the long run should put too much weight on the door, what would i need and where should i look at online for it?

success

SUVs are large vehicles and it requires hardly anything to get them loud. IT's something you won't know til you compare it. Also, with a larger vehicle, you won't never have to worry about space being an issue with ideas you may ever have.

well, i havent updated this in a few days. I tried to get some other pc gurus to help me figure out why i was hitting a brick wall but nobody could figure it out so i have stopped OC'ing this build and finished it as follows on stock cooler- Cpu- dual 3.1 Stock - OC - dual 3.556GHz Ref clock- Stock - 200Mhz - OC - 254MHz HyperTransport clock- Stock - 2000MHz - OC - 2286MHz Northbridge clock - Stock- 2000MHz - OC - 2540MHz Mem Bus- SPD- DDR2 800MHz- OC - DDR2 1040MHz @5-5-5-15-2T @2.06v According to Everest Benchmarking, this oc setup is devastating compared to stock settings. Memory write speeds have increased by over 83% and read speeds have increased a little more than 10%. Most processing tests are a little slower compared to if i just made the processor strictly faster but that was not the goal. The function of this pc is not processor speed dependent. Therefore i left the multiplier down, ACC off and the vCore below 1.35v The function of this pc is just average internet browsing and research use. This is why the reference clock was bumped up until testing failure occured so i could get everything else on the board but the processor working much faster. It's just as an added benefit that the processor can handle an extra 900mhz combined on the stock cooler without worry. Under load, the cores under maximum Prime95 use do not exceed 42C which is awesome! Idle temps are 22C Super cool! I'm sure i can oc the hell out of the processor based on these current temps but not necessary. Average core temps during cpu use does not exceed 36C so i'd say this configuration is done. The only downfall i see with these settings is the system freezes every time during bootup for 5 sec then resumes normally. IT has reached some threshold but will not crash nor shows signs of failure in prime95 so nothing to worry about. The NB probably needs to have it's speed skewed slightly but this mobo doesn't have every setting a typical high end Asus board has, hehe. I would recommend this setup or any other dual core phenom II amd chip that is unlocked as they oc well while maintaining low temps, especially with stock cooler.

Yep, if you are correct when you say you never have it up at high volumes... then logically, the other possibility is mechanical failure. This is typically caused by setting subsonic filter extremely too low, box too large and sometimes tuned too low.

i speak behind competition. That's what they use in SQ battles just like a t-lab is what's used to measure pressure or.. "loud" so when it comes to personal preference, i bring nothing to the table.. just what i've been around and seen in comp. I'm more of an SPL and bassrace guy, sq in your guys eyes is not as important to me.

you should have built the plug out of wood.. been a lot cheaper unless u just tryin to get rid of plexi...

This is their company as they are working on something for me, have worked on a couple alts for phi on here and another buddy of mine that competes as well.... They have VERY LIMITED people working there with a crap ton of orders on a near daily basis. Think of everybody goin to Dominick Iraggi for new alts.. There isn't but just him and maybe one other person helpin him... it gets jammed up a lot of times. I talked to them today actually and from 12-22-09 - 1-1-10 they will not be building or servicing everyone's alt's because the main guy, Rob, won't be back til next Monday. If you know of anyone that has got service done within this time, they got lucky pretty much. And sadly to say, Rob is like 6 people in one, he's never there at the shop but somehow he gets these orders done... And when i mean not there... i mean out of the state a lot. So.. customer service is great in terms of warranty or service request work to be done but turn around time is terrible due to the overwhelming. They offered to build me a free alternator at one point just so i could see how good their alt's are... That's pretty decent!

i'm bout to go to sleep but i assumed that is external so- 47" internal wide 27" internal high 22" internal deep Ok, well i might tackle this tomorrow but i got some more box designs to take care of first....

that's suppose to mean just use baffle depth but uh.. how u get that? Either i'm lost or there is some serious misguided math goin on here... the baffle is double layered correct? If that's true the internal volume needs to be about 22cuft to have a "no length" when using 27x8" You are using 8x30"... there is no where in this thread that he mentioned that the dimensions posted were internal dimensions so i am subtracting 1.5" thick all the way around what he has posted. If this is incorrect, Julian, you need to clear this up as you will have 2 totally different answers.

there isn't enough information posted from the user for me to get exact numbers. I don't really see how you even got numbers without all the info i posted about assuming this and so on...

if serious about competing, try and get as much port area as possible! Recommended - 240sqin for average use. 350-500sqin for xtreme use. Do not use these numbers for daily use as stated before, strictly 1 note burps. It is up to the user to determine safe mechanical handling before unloading at port areas like this all at once.

misinformation here... Assuming displacement is 0.25 per sub=0.5cuft Using 1.5" thick walls all the way around the box(6 sides) Assuming the 6 1/2" is the port opening on the far right... Assuming the port depth goes back 15.5" internally leaving 6 1/2" opening in the back... Assuming the 18s will be flush mounted into the baffle.. Assuming added port wall is single layered(recommended) I get 13.15cuft Port area 175.5sqin 6.5" x 27" Port depth physical - 17" \ 15.5" internal. Port depth acoustical- 27.5" Tuning - 30.5hz For 38hz - Port depth physical - 7.5" \6" internal. Port depth acoustical - 10.75" Please note that ANY mass added to the inside of this box will throw off tuning. The more mass you take up, the higher the tuning will go so if you want 45s in the corners then gotta know beforehand. Also, when bracing this thing, do as MUCH as possible to the outside when designing for competition. Try to brace adjacent walls to each other if you can't brace your box to the car or build a steel frame or layered wood around it.

u can sound clean with a wall. Me and snoopdan's walls both sound clean on music so i don't know what the problem is there. For competition, keep the design the way it is--> for burps and bassrace. For Driveby, that is a toss up... It may be louder with a horizontal port but i have not and will probably never test that theory so i can't help there. For strict daily driving, full horizontal port will work best because the port will not be made to load all in one precise area in the car.

to the guy that said loud can be measured but sound quality can't... yes it can.That's what an RTA is for.

i hope u are not testing just by measuring resistance only...u NEED to measure it in a power application. Why? because wire and wire terminals. when heated, will raise resistance. since wire and wire terminals are not the exact same material and surface area, they will exhibit different resistances and this will probably only be seen and measured at very high loads such as 60A and higher.

Not all competitions are sanctioned guys I won my first competition and it wasn't a MECA or IASCA competition, just a local thing. I can usually tell what comp it is just on the date, that's how i knew it was MECA

curious too because according to the stats, nobody has posted a 142.5db the whole 2010 year.