shizzzon

thermal protection? is the amp hot? Measure voltage at the power\ground terminals instead of the rear battery. If neither lead to the answer.. i would check that ohm load again with the stereo off. Nothing else would make sense if it's not low voltage, heat or low ohm load... These are the three main things that causes protection faults at high volumes.

well, i'm not keen to memphis equipment but just on the protect mode itself, when you play a test tone, does the sound of the sub change right before it goes into protect? You will need to be listening to the front fo the sub to be able to tell. IF the sound output from the sub changes and sounds odd right before going into protect, you may have a signal issue causing the amp to go into protect. I recently diagnosed a vehicle with that issue locally who is running a sundown 3000d. His preouts on his head unit needed to be grounded due to some defect in the headunit.

maybe you don't have enough power? I got a buddy on here runnin 2 10s ported off of 2000w and those subs want more power.. just a smaller box. We can't add more power to his current box because they move too much right now. It sounds decent but i know they can get louder. He did a 140.2 on music with the car off with that setup off a 35A fuse. I'm pretty sure he can surpass a 142.5 with the car on with test tones but never really tested it since he doesn't compete in that method. Gonna try and get him a 145 with the car off before the competing season is over in the trunk with the same setup.

sealed box is probably why. You are probably more used to listening to ported designs. Play some tones or music above or around the 50hz range, i'm sure that area is decently loud in that box. Get a dmm and measure ohm load at amp's terminals with the stereo completely off. You should be reading no lower than ~1.3 ohms (after accuracy compensation) If it's reading 0.6-0.8 or 2.8-3.2, it's wired incorrectly.

SPEAKER FOAM TAPE from partsexpress... That stuff helps pretty good.

you can't cut a baffle so perfect that no air wouldnt escape if you do have air leaks around the sub... The wood would have to lip over the sub's mounting points... You know how hard it is just to drop a sub in a hole that precise? Me and a buddy did that one time... we had to use allen wrenches ran through the mounting holes of the sub to perfectly drop it into place. One slight angle... and the sub wouldnt fit... It was a bitch!

yes, your subs didnt come with one? You can go to partsexpress.com and use speaker foam. For competition seals, you can use duct tape and weather stripping.

The more strands you have... the thinner the wire has to be to maintain the same surface area so if comparing equal surface areas... then the wire with the MORE strands should be more flexible without taking into consideration the jacket they are in! The Kolossus Flex cable i use is very very flexible and it's using a different jacket to house the wire in.

is the clipping light ever coming on when u got all these settings maxed out? If it's not, u got a filter turned on somewhere.

i'm keepin it for a while... don't know when i'll tear it out yet.. or will i? hehe. I will never decide to tear it out until i get my 24,000w of power in the car.

thanks. The LED strip that was doing is was cut... These are wheel well lights... The leds are encased in very strong material but output very flimsy 22awg wire. I'm removing all lights going to the block until i get a fuse in line with all of them before they reach the block so if any of them do it again, the amps won't be effected.

Everything works now! That one wire that was grounding was still making contact to my main block.. it's gone now... All amps work fine now. Apparently the fuse that popped before the relay prevented damage so that's good.

i'm afraid the wire will catch fire due to the low resistance... I wil have to find my old atc fuse holder and run a fuse in it to try that.

hehe, i've removed the wiring out of the system... IT's down to the amps now. The troubleshooting step is why are the amps not coming on.. I'm trying to see if it's possible that the low current short could have possibly damaged all 3 amp's remote turn ons...

I'm assuming that 0.2 ohms means ground with resistance somewhere.. If i'm wrong then that could be good or bad depending on the problem... Measured as follows- Once i isolated which wires were reading super low- Connected negative probe to battery ground, positive probe probed each wire separately. I then disconnected the remote turn on wire coming out of the sundown amp and measured as follows- Sundown ground - 0.0 ohms(normal) Sundown remote - 0.2 ohms(i dont think that's normal because DB-R tested resistance on a 1500d an hour ago and it didn't read anywhere near that low) Sundown power - nothing registered(normal)

maximum current draw is less than 3A for everything on there.. that's the whole point of the relay. We know the fuse popped due to the led strip grounding... but even if the led was fused with an itty bitty fuse.. i'm sure the same thing would have happened what i think has happened...

nothing got yanked, i pulled them out to test each wire wired into the block. There were 9 wired ran into this block... 3 were readind 0.2 ohms or lower which was 1 LED wire and 2 remote turn on wires for amps.

OK, here is scenario- Got a 20A relay on remote turn on wire with 3 amps and some leds on it. The 15A fuse on the relay popped today... that means it drew WAY too much current... i have a short somewhere... I check- 3 wires were pulled out of the remote turn on distro block that was reading ground.... 1 of these wires is an LED wire. The other 2 wires go to my sundown 100.4 and the other wire goes to both AQ3500Ds remote turn on... The LED wire reads 0.0 ohms and the turn on wires for all 3 amps are reading 0.2 ohms.... Is the remote turn on's grounded? Did the led wire cause a massive surge through all the remote turn ons?

i can't remember but do they run on 48v? Also, do all hybrid cars run on the same electrical system volt-wise? Curious as to what will happen eventually when the majority of vehicles are hybrid\all electric...

i've also heard alternative to resin or addition to resin is to sand over resin, if exists, enamel paint(apply before resin if u still want to use resin), turtle wax + armor all. Goal - extreme smoothness.

ok, connected all the basics and fired it up! The system works so i can now continue with routing all cables and finish installing devices. Ran for bout 45 minutes in the BIOS and stays at a solid 32.5C stock. I don't know what the Core temps are though because as us pc people know, the cpu temp in the bios is not the same temp sensor measured for the Thermal spec in the manual... My other order just came in for almost the exact same pc so i gotta go start that build now. I'll be gettin some more pics up soon. I just love this case!

if u spend almost 200 for a 9a31... then u are not on a budget.i only give 135 shipped whenever i need any

If you are competing, Batcaps are the preferred choice. If you are on a budget, Deka 9a31s or Carquest NG31s ordered in bulk is the way to go.

that's what i was talkin bout i "might" have to do. I've never messed with i7's yet and now i gotta OC this one and another one next weekend after they have been burned in for a week at stock settings. I don't know how hot this thing will get but we'll see starting next weekend.

it's more important at this point to figure out the reason before replacing it. Just out of curiosity.. take a multimeter and connect it to both posts set to ohms and see if it reads somethin on the battery. Very VERY slim chance but it shouldnt read anything. If it does... then the battery shorted itself... again very unlikely. Without knowing how the terminals were on the battery.. i can speculate that one or both terminals on both posts were loose and was arc welding. So, going by speculation, how were the cables secured on the battery?