shizzzon

i use only 3\4" rod but i'm crazy too.

well, the results shouldnt be all that good because i've got a lot of tweaks i can do to get it louder. I just want to establish a score first. No biggie, see ya in 4 months.

try some of these links, one of these should work for your wifi driver- ftp://ftp.hp.com/pub/softpaq/sp33501-34000/sp33632.exe ftp://ftp.hp.com/pub/softpaq/sp33001-33500/sp33008.exe

ok, so if there is no yellow or red, then do this, go down to Network and expand the list in here and see if u have one of these in there- Intel PRO Broadcom You should have 2 listings in network and only 2.. if u have more, u will need to type them in here One of those 2 i just mentioned is the WLAN access driver. If u got more than 1 installed, that's bad. If you have neither, that's bad.

do this while i'm researchin- Go to my computer, or computer, right click and select properties. Then up top, select Hardware then below that, select Device Manager. Look in this window and tell me if you see any yellow exclamation points or red x's anywhere. scroll down if u have to. there is no need to expand anything because if there is any, it will show you already expanded in the list.

ok do this, tell me your brand and model number and i'll check out the keyboard layout myself.

refer to your original laptop thread. I can also point you to verify what is and what isn't installed if what i posted earlier doesn't help.

do this- In the lower left portion of your keyboard, typically, there is an FN key. Hold this key and while holding it, look for a key at the top that represents a satellite dispersing waves out.. press that key while holding FN. If a light comes on somewhere on the keyboard or at the lower portion of the keyboard, then u have now enabled Wifi access... It will then find your router and request a KEY (a long password) if it's protected. U get that far, and we might have to do the rest via chatroom or by phone because the next step after that is time consuming if it is protected.

I've decided the next thign i'm gonna do after pullin out the wall is to build a 1" steel thick frame for the next build welded but separated as 2 pieces. Like the top half would be welded with 1" square steel tubing and so will the bottom. They are 2 separate pieces. I would then build the inside using 39ply Baltic Birch (3 13ply sheets) then bolt all sheets through to the outer frame using 3\8" thick solid steel plate runs on the inside. Before building the design itself, i would layer the entire car behind the B pillar with a single sheet of baltic birch or MDF and 2-3 layers of Durock sheeting behind it to create a solid, hard shelled shell in my car to prevent loss of pressure and 0 flex. This design won't commence til a long time from now anyways. Now, my current design, i'm VERY limited on space so internal bracing is required to prevent wall flex behind the port... I'm going to install 1" square wooden dowels EVERYWHERE and see if that helps with pressure. If it doesn't, i'll buy 1.25" ID PVC and split it in half and wrap them around all the dowels to see if the rounded pvc will help air flow around all braces. Other than that.. it's buyin 6 more batts and goin from 7kw to 24kw and seein how loud i can get... THEN.... hehe, i'm tearin out the wall.. Goal is to break 160 at the kick first, then at the head. I'm doin 156s in the kick now so i'm sure i can prob get REAL close to a 160 in the kick with my current setup.

well, onto the actual topic-good luck to everybody...2 coils 1 sub

u just hate me cuz i'm white

i'll still fix it if i can have it for just 10minutes

2 whores 1 gulp?

I know who the winner is!!!! ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... The winner is - ... .. ... The person who did not Lose!

i dont have experience with trucks all that much but from what i've seen, sub up port passenger side seems to do damn good in competition and if built right will give the port a loading area to work in as well. If you had the room, you could try sub back if u could spare about 6-8" from the back of the cab but usually not feasible and port to the passenger side. This would give front and rear wave a loading area. However, most people who requests box designs from me for trucks will request either sub up port up or sub forward port forward. They tell me from experience that's what they like so i'm like okay... It's just like hatchbacks- I have a hatchback. People may think sub up port back is the box to use when staying in street class for competition or just for keeping everything in the cargo area.... While this may be true in some hatchbacks, my hatchback is still louder with sub back port back. Also, another tip... If you can extend the box by pulling it closer to the seat or just removing the rear seat but still fire the subs AND port into the cargo area.... Wala! There was a thread about that on CA not too long ago about a guy that owns a Ford Escort doin that and burpin over a 150 with a single 15 and less than 2,000w! That's very efficient! He had a massive loading area to work with, the entire cargo area and how hatch's slant up, that glass helps alot.

amp's dont give off a "burn in smell" so don't expect one. It sounds like someone has got something wired too low of an ohm load. Time to whip out the DMM and start measuring resistance with the amp completely off.

That's gonna be iffy.. should work though! You can ran up to 75A fuse.... Technically.. u do have a good chance on not blowing a fuse out! Each one of my 3500ds peaks at 135A of maximum current draw on music. I have all around high rise.. I guess that's good to some degree, hehe. Come out to the meetup friday. I'm gettin my car back tomorrow so i'll be rewiring it for legal purposes so i can go to the show.

i'm either gonna be in Modified 4 or Modex 2, whichever the judges feel.. It doesn't really matter because if the judges feel i need to be in Modex... i'm just gonna tear out my wall and create a shell in side my car behind the B pillar with a steel tubed frame around the whole box design to prevent flex if that's hwo they wanna do it, Or.. if they put me in Modified 4, then i'll see how loud i can get my wall.. I'm onyl runnin 7kw right now and if i stay in M4, i'll drop in 6 mroe batts and up myself to 24,000w. But until those times, this is my first sanction event, i've competed in non sanctions but just never sanction. I really don't care what i do the first couple times but after that, i'll start gettin down to business. all i need is motivation and goin to shwos wil do it

so r u commin or not?

bad ground connection.. low voltage or wired too low ohm load.

how many do u have left? Also, can u remove the present L shaped terminals on them? And lastly, can u present a link about these batteries being used in the car audio field. I know these are like the new "hotness" and i was readin about em but lost the link. Also, how much for 6 of these and how much for each additional one after that shipped to 40258(if i were to buy more than 6 at one time)?

x2, i agree

sound deadening material does not qualify for concrete... I thought that was clear but i guess it wasnt.. You don't go to secondskin for concrete do you? Concrete will\should increase resonance... Deadener materials will decrease resonance which will hurt the goal of higher pressure levels. This topic DOES NOT consist of this argument so if u want to talk about it, create a topic about it. You didnt understand what i said. I am around enough competitors and do our own research to know what's what with different installs to see what helps in pressure levels. The thought of actually using sound deadener to help with SPL is a no-no in most applications. As i said earlier, this type of materials lowers resonance. You want to debate me on this, i'll throw this topic over on another forum where many competitors are and will let them give you the detailed info on it since they been doin it a LOT logner than i have.

If that stuff could be used for somethin like that.. and don doesnt' know.. i can only imagine how many layers it would take to prevent pressure from escaping. It would be easier to just create a shell inside your trunk and build your design from within.

wow! i honestly dont know if anyone with a car would need something that large!