shizzzon

I just got done doin some more talkin and they make an upgrade for us car audio competitors to move the air compressor and tank underneath the car so all we got to do is mount the valves anywhere.

i thought u were a carpenter, lol This is what i did- On the outside, it's large fender washer, lock washer then Polylock Nylon nut. On the inside, it's large fender washer, lock washer, regular 3\4" nut. The runs going from side to side- You want the inside combo on the wall, both sides of each 4x4 and through other wall and back out to the outside of the wall. So you would need 2 Polylock Nylon nuts, 6 regular 3\4" nuts, 8 lock washers and 8 large fender washers PER run. The runs going from back to 4x4- You want the following- Lock nut, lock washer and large fender washer on the outside and on other side of 4x4 when the run ends! So, you will need 2 Polylock Nylon nuts, 2 regular 3\4" nuts, 4 lock washers and 4 large fender washers PER run. This is the point where people see how much we put into a wall... Each of these nuts is about $1 each, washers are about 2 for a $1... I suggest using 6" l brackets too in places there u might need them. 6" L brackets have a 10" radius of dispersed strength to let you know.

Yes, the bracing pic shows 2 4x4s, ALL 3\4" all-thread running into it. Near the front of the baffle, the horizontal pieces are 2" wooden dowels, there is 4 total, 2 on each side of the port. Then at the inside baffle, there is 1 3\4" all-thread run on each side of the baffle between each sub on each side. You can see 1 small run in the pic, there is another on opposite side.

this pic shows parts of the double sheeting port on top where the blue colored parts and opposite pieces alike are NOT to be there. This is to allow a port plug to slide into the port and use extra wood glued to the outside of the plug to fit nicely into the parts of the port that is missing. This will hold it steady. All you have to do is secure it in the front. You should make a front base so it goes over the outside of the baffle and fit's nicely or u can cut 0.75" of depth off the top part of the port so the front port plug base is flush with the baffle.. doesn't matter, all cosmetic work from there. Just remember to secure the plug. Making a base which covers the top port and baffle slightly will keep it from going in the box any further than necessary, just need to secure it from pushing out or rattling. Do NOT make the port plug as tight as possible! You will regret it. You can leave about 1\8" space on top and bottom of the slits to slide into. If it starts to rattle, you can always run thin material in the slit to prevent it from moving but i highly doubt this is necessary.

wanna make sure u are here... I'm about to post up the bracing pic that i think you should do. I'm not gonna draw every little thing but the main part will be here.

32v if going by that method. increase preout on your headunit if your stereo can do that. Dont leave gain at max if that's what you did. Keep head unit volume 75% of max volume it can go. Keep bass and all eq settings at 0.

nice pic. here is specs of box so far- Triple baffled Double sheets throughout. ONLY top portion of port is double sheeted as shown below- Box specs- looking from baffle to rear. (remember, these are all external dimensions) 58" wide x 32.5" high - these dimensions go back 14" On top of that, 50" wide x 8.75" high - these dimensions go back 14" After 14" deep, - 41.5" wide x 41.25" high for the next 16" deep. Once here, 41.5" wide x 38" high for the next 16.5" deep. The box is 16.5" deep on the hump. Elevated to a height of no higher than 38", the box rises above the hump 3.25". Subwoofer Center Positions- These are the center positions of the subwoofer cutouts. GET AS PRECISE AS POSSIBLE The wall is triple baffled so if a slight part of a wall is in view of a cutout, do not worry, sub will still fit as long as it was cut properly at the right spot. Sub order - #1 - Bottom Left #2 - Top Left #3 - Top Right #4 - Bottom Right Following center positions are measured from the bottom left of the baffle. X axis = horizontal Y axis = vertical #1 - x=10", y=10" #2 - x=13.65", y= 28.33" #3 - x=44.5", y=28.33" #4 - x=48", y=10" When making these cutouts, once done, it's wise to place all subs on baffle prior to mounting it to ensure they all fit without hitting each other. If you accidentally cut wrong and one subs is to close to another, you can remove the rubber gasket around the subwoofer freeing up 1\8" of space.

I and others who own Scion tCs have been waiting for an air ride kit that can be purchased right here in America that not only works, but is Digital and not hard on the money! Well, the wait is officially OVER! ScionPro and Ogerdonz are now done testing the kit and must have passed successfully and is ready for the market. This is a FULLY digital kit on a presale price right now! Running just under $2,600 SHIPPED! until September 30th. If you need to be able to carry more weight or want a air experience, the time has come.

Don't always use it. Ever.

maybe he's tryin to do a sleeper install with his equipment... You better not tell anyone u are running icons in there... lol port size? The port size is the following- Top portion - 11" wide x 19.75" tall Bottom portion - 18" wide x 18.5" wide OK, gotta start thinkin about how this box is gonna be braced. Oh, i haven't told you this yet- As of right now, after sub and port displacement, your box is 30.13 cubes right now. I want it to be close to 28 when done. You should lose, hopefully, about 2 cubes of space after all the bracing and either rounding the corners or doin 45s in the box. Oh by the way... your port takes up 7.6 cubes! Your port is larger than lots of people's boxes!

yep, that's how a plug works. Lucky for you, daily is more forgiving than pure competition is. I would not suggest sealing the plug as it's unnecessary and pointless. Even if there was any air leaks through the plug, the pressure output for daily would have an inaudible difference. You want it so that it can be easily removable. There are plenty of ways to do this without hassle. Those are little things. I'll start working on bracing tomorrow.

the audioque does do rated power so don't start bashing. Both of these amps do rated power so do not forget that. The audioque amp must remain at a higher voltage since it is rated at 14.4v. I'm sure it can do rated power at a lower voltage with lot more distortion but i have always known sundown amps to put out some serious power, rated power or slightly more under 12v. So for those who have top notch electrical systems.. expect sundown amps to put out crazy power.

Competition\Daily use! The port will be double MDF on the top half, the bottom half will be single layered MDF with some pretty nifty bracing. The lower portion port is 333sqin- this is the DAILY port tuned to ~ 30hz. The top portion gets plugged and hwo it gets plugged is pretty neat too... there is a reason why the top is double sheeted... it's part of the plug bracing. The top portion of the port is 217.5 sqin. When the plug is removed, it will be tuned around 37hz with 550sqin of port! Massive!

ok tell me what you think -

yes, of course pay no attention to all the breaks in the wood and pay no attention to exactly how all adjacent pieces join together... It's easier to draw it like that because for those who actually build boxes, we can just look at the pic and know where to break a run of wood.. common sense, lol. I'm gonna try and build the subs and port right now so the only thing left is bracing... So dont go anywhere yet!

i will be posting box dimensions once everything has been done...

Boxie Box before details have been added- Now workin on details... Stay tuned throughout the weekend...

you'll get to see the BOX, nothing else, but just that is pretty nice enough for the time being while i get more precise numbers...

got over 70% of the box designed After i get it all designed, i will post it up. then i will take another day or 2 to put the finishing touches on it. I'll go ahead and tell u guys that the pic i'll be postin up soon will NOT show the subs or port... just the box design. The subs, port and bracing is an artistic part of the design and takes time.

gimme a day or 2 to draw it out. I'm tryin to draw it out in 3d right now.

hmm... what did i just come up with??? I dont know?!?! Is it possible that i was just able to produce a port area of 550sqin? Nah i couldnt have..... could i? Mouth dropping port area for comp use? hmm... What about daily? Well, that's easy... you physically can't listen to it at that level due to the way our ears perceive sound at incredible pressure levels... 330sqin of port sound like enough for daily? I believe it's doable! that is 12sqin per cube which is fine for daily, Eager for the results? How did i do it?!?!?! I'll show it all to you once the design has been laid out in great detail.

OH.. hmm... i thought you couldnt do that... well, now i've gots lots of ideas...

i run almost 2kw on just the Level 4 so i'd imagine if u keep it under 2500, level4 should be fine. anything higher and under 4kw, i'd probably say the XL. I run ridiculous amounts of power to my equipment but i also know to properly setup and monitor everything without worrying so if you do not know how to exactly, i'd run a XL if under 2500w and Level 5 for anything more.

i think it's blurry because you guys are gettin too nervous about the pressure level to come, haha. I'm not sayin anything yet but i just made a WICKED design for your port... i gotta do some more work to it to determine the final outcome but i think you will like! I will say this, off the top of my head, it will be 30hz daily, and comp port will be stationary tuned to about 37hz... meaning these will be the only 2 tunings available... i'm still workin on tinkerin it to see what else i can do but once i post up info... it will be a lot of it!