shizzzon

i'll just be brief, using 0.75" mdf, this is what i have - 13.5" x 13.5" x 32.5" internal = 3.4277 cubes GROSS Displacement for each 10= unknown so lets say 0.15 per so 0.3 = 3.1277 cubes GROSS Port area requirement for square port = 40sqin Port area requirement for aero port = 26sqin A single 6" aeroport has just over 28sqin of port area so a single 6" will do. The port will need to be around 18" long... That's a close estimate for an aeroport. If it comes to be that u need a slot port which stays along the side of the enclosure, let me know so i can design a box for it.

there sd2.5 line that's only rated at 600w can take their AQ1200d per sub which equals - 1470w per sub amplifier rated. Hell, their sd2.0 line which was only a 2.0" coil could burp at 1kw. I don't know their daily tolerances though. Just because i say it can doesnt mean do it... If someone doesn't have experience with overpowering speakers and doesn't know what to sense for if something bad might happen... dont do it.

u know it's not metered power... but i ran 2200d per hdc3 for almost a year without problem. Audioque subs have always been severely underrated for daily abuse. There little 2.5" coils can take their 1470w on music too. It's just that none of this is suggested because they don't want someone without experience to kill their equipment.

lots of people save money by using anything, pvc is one choice, as the port itself then just adapting flares on each end. In terms of port size based on a 35hz tuning, i can get you close but it may not be perfect perfect perfect because flares come in all different widths and depths. Just because the ID is 6" doesnt mean that's all u need to know.

oh i been meanin to ask you- Before i design this in 3d and find everything else out, when the baffle is 58" wide, is it 18" deep the max i can go before i shrink it back down to 50" wide? I knwo you said earlier it was only 14" deep before i had to but i remember you sayin u scooted the design up towards the front 4" so i need to know is it still 14" or 18" deep now?

go to a fabric store and buy the cheapest material you can find. then just duct tape it to everything in the vehicle while you build it. If you use plastic, use it only on the floor. Plastic will rip easy so when using expanding foam on the sides, the pressure will likely rip the plastic when you try to remove the plastic(if u tried to use it for that)

prostitute?seriously, u must wait until i draw the 3d design out so u can get an "idea" on what u will need

then its ok. i usex 41.25 high and max on 58 wide only.

the internal volume should be about 28-32cubes NET. I didnt really understand the dance floor thing u guys were sayin.. am i gonna have to shrink the box design down? i use 41.25 high for that drawing at 58" wide.

they are stress tested before shipped out. I own a refurbed sax100.4 and have never had problems with it for a year now.

you only need 2 6" aeros. If you were going non flared, you would need up to 80sqin, 2 6" aeros is about 57sqin and is fine. Typical recommendations- 14-16sqin if non flared per cube 9-12sqin if flared per cube This works well in real world builds for music.

winisd may not be able to properly calculate PSP's aero's. Reason being is winisd doesn't know the outer flare size of the 6" port. All it knows is the ID is 6" and is round... newer versions of winisd will allow you to choose flared end correction but i do not know how accurate that is based upon multiple ways to make a flare... I'd just use PSP's calculator since they make em.

ok, here is pic, the main internal rectangle in the center is the port opening. The outer 2 vertical lines per side show the port wood thickness BEHIND the baffle. This is to show that the wood will not be in the way of mounting your subs. The circles inside the circles indicate the sub cutout diameter and the outer circles indicate the outside basket size. It's ok to screw a screw into the 1.5" thick part of the MDF, that's why some of the basket's screw points(no more than 1 per sub) hang over to the thickness of a wall. It's also possible if you turn the subs just right, you may not even have to screw a single screw into a wall thickness if you didn't want to.

ok, i'm gonna run the port straight down the middle because you can't keep 58" wide for more than 30" deep... this will hurt competition port placement some but you must remember that you've never competed before and this is mostly for daily use so it shouldnt be that much of a problem, especially with this much port area! I'll show u a pic of the baffle here soon. If you approve, i'll start the 3d design. NOTE- This baffle is being designed at 41.25" high so your dance floor or whatever u gonna use better not interfere with this.

oh that reminds me! You gonna need to tell me an amount of height that you are gonna dedicate to the dance floor! Just to let u know, the shorter the height, the wider it needs to be! This is one reason why i suggested just pure steel.

yes, dont worry bout what all bracing materials u need until i design it for you.the 18s should fit and i cant prove it until i design it.i know your anxious but just give me a couple more hours... then i'll tune to Cinemax tonight, lol

well, from experience, when your wood gets laid, it's usually nasty..so for him to be sharing this with us and pics to come... this build should be on Cinemax

correct, there will be no diamond. Speaking of dance floor, are you even going to use one? I didn't use one on my build but that's because my wall sits on the car frame so it's sturdy. What will you use to distribute the floor's weight making it level and less to no chance of flexing? You can run 1\4" thick steel runs and secure that to the vehicle. The carpenter guy should be able to give u ideas maybe better than me but here is one way u could do it- Run 1\4" thick steel runs (from one side to the other) about every 12" back until you reach the hump in the back. Use wood, 2x4s.. 4x4s, whatever it needs to fit in between your floor and the steel. Secure the steel to the wood, secure the wood to the floor of the vehicle. You shouldnt need any bracing support for the hump area as it's flat. You WILL need to secure the back part of the box though to the floor as well. Should you double up on the port? u can, using 58" width most of the way will allow this i'm almost positive without drawin it out. So, i'll tell u what i'll do- I'll design it with double runs of wood on each side of the port. You will need a God supply of Titebond III, Silicone II, Liquid Nails, and possible 6" L brackets which are $$$ when u gotta start usin over 40 of them, lol. I'll start redesigning later on today.

completely eliminate it. Remember, gotta make sure the height up to 41.25 can accommodate 56" wide and if not, let me know how to build the baffle to redraw it.

ok, if u get 56" wide external, this is the dimensions then for the baffle for the first 14" back so make sure this is right- 56" wide x 14" deep x 41.25" high Make sure u can go the full 41.25" high and maintain 56" width. If not, give me the height adjustment so i can adjust width at certain height points and see what the port area says then.

deaf = 15s, psychological problems = 18s

it would need to be 56" external width the entire depth until you reach the "hump" in the floor. If you can't, then the depth can be as short as 14" but port would be placed straight down the middle which slightly hurts for competition.

for all previous options, maximum port area is 496sqin. for 4 18s, if u squeeze another 6" of width out of that vehicle, it would be 496 sqin.

port length is not the problem, it's port area.

you know, if u could have squeezed and extra 6 inches of width out of the vehicle that u could run 4 18s! If you gotta take your door panels off in the back or something.. u could do it then, just 6 inches of width... You told me 50"... get 56" and then u can run 4 18s.