shizzzon

Lol, ok then get a scrap piece of wood and start pulling out drill bits. Find one that makes you have to force the wire through the drill hole. Once you find that, use that for the wire then silicone II around the hole after the wire is ran through on the inside AND outside. "Second Skin Arrived & Installed Also Purchased a Tox Kit from eBay to remove seats" You know, lol, when i first read that, i thought u were chemically diluting gases in your truck to remove your seats.. I was sittin here thinkin.. Damn, they really don't want you modifyin this vehicle do they?

funny how one of em said used to remember when they had to make their own filters... These are the same people that had to walk up hill to a db drag comp in 4ft of snow and build their own Tlab mic and manifest their own db numbers then walk back in 4ft of snow... They reach a certain point and just stop and never once look at how a certain technology advances.. They are clueless. We will be like that too eventually... IF not, remember to cal all you guys Alma gates wannabees,

Honestly, a terminal cup would be fine, just run silicone around the cup from the inside. It's not a lot of power so runnin 8-12awg speaker wire through a cup isn't gonna effect anything even if competing.

is he getting a high output alternator? If he isn't, don't let him install anything over ~2000w regardless how many batts he has in the back. An Xcon would probably be perfect for this scenario as mentioned before, plus he will save money on subs by purchasing one.

DO YOU LIKE LOUD OR DO YOU LIKE SMOOTH SOUNDING BASS? GOTTA PICK ONE CUZ U ARENT GONNA GET BOTH. BESIDES, THAT AMP IS TOO POWERFUL FOR THE SSD, YOU NEED TO CHOOSE BETWEEN THE BL AND THE Q ANYWAY.

this is simple, If it's too loud, you're too old. That's the answer to that whole thread you posted, end of discussion.

i dont really understand what u were asking but the sundown amp is rated at 1000w @1ohm, probably 500w at 2 ohm dont know for sure. It'd be stupid to spend ~$300 for 500w of power knowing the amp wouldn't match his setup. SSA is customizing his Dcon order so it matches the sundown amp anyway so the problem is solved.

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yea, you need to look at my build log, i'm running 2 3500ds on 4 15" Lvl4s. I'm still workin on it but i got the main part done with pics.

yea i run a 3500w amp on 2 lvl4s and they rated at 1000w per sub, that's fine. If i had those lvl3s, i'd prob run 1500w per sub to them but i like headroom. You set an amp up properly and you won't have anything to worry about.

you are fine doing that, you just dont wanna hook up 2 different brands together or 2 different series lines within the same brand. Sure people do it but it will shorten the life of the battery because batts have different properties and shoudl be matched to the proper product lines only.

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SecondSkin FireIce

OK, design is done. Here is the front baffle- The port placement is as follows again measured from LEFT to RIGHT, BOTTOM to TOP- Port cut out area- 15" from left at 0.75" high(due to sub floor) to 27" from the left at 0.75" high. Port cut out area height is 4.25" high from sub floor. Port area = 12" x 4.25" = 51sqin. Perfectly fine for this install. Port length is to be added behind the double baffle 15.5" long. Add length inside at these measurements- from the left, 14.25" to 15" is the left wall running back. 27" to 27.75" is the right wall running back. The top wall of the port which is 0.75" thick is running on top of the 2 side walls at 14.25" to 27.75" back 15.5" just like the 2 side walls. those smaller circles are the wooden dowel bracing. Specific points aren't necessary, just make sure you put the top on last so u can get all your bracing done. Here is a pic of the bracing- Again, precise bracing points aren't necessary, just make sure none of them run into each other! This pic is showing using 2" diameter wooden dowels. Your box will be tuned to 33hz at 5.75 cubes NET. I know SSA recommends optimally at 5.0 NET for 4 subs but you will be fine with this setup. A look over- 5.75 NET, port area 12 x 4.25, 15.5" long internally tuned to 33hz. hope u build it, you will like it.

i was doin some lookin and it looks like the box design will remain exactly the same! The Dcons have twice the displacement but if you replace the 2x4s with wooden dowels it will balance out the displacement perfectly. I will now start the design process so u can see what it will look like.

u gonna have to change amps otherwise you are gonna be starving those DCons... The DCons are Dual 4 ohms so you need an amp that does it's best at 2ohms. I picked 2 amps for ya. A 1200w Kenwood amp - Kenwood 9104D A 1000w Alpine amp - Alpine MRP-M1000

for people like you who want to hit a number that typicallydoesnt happen all the time requires knowledge on whatexactly to expect to do, test and look for when trying toachieve an above-average goal.another tip is to dedicate a few weeks like i am about to doand test different port areas and tuning...when u finally find the right note to peak at, then it's timeto start testing different port areas.Think of a port as an exhaust pipe.too small of a port and you will choke and cause too muchback pressure(port turbulance) resulting in loss of SPL.too much port area and you will not have enough backpressure which can lose horsepower(big hole in the boxwith too low port velocity. Can also cause a sub to unload whichis dangerous to the suspension system.)So you gotta find just the right port area as well.Remember- once you find it and roll with it, if you ever addmore power, you will start choking your new potential!

no, go back and read about the amp problems, it was amplifier failure due to a defect of some sort, not user neglect.

ok, sounds good, i'll finish the port design tomorrow and try to get the bracing design done asap.

The Dcons would definitely hit lower, that's for sure. If you want those instead, i need to know so i can alter the design specs. The sub placement center points would remain the same, i would just need to alter the port design.

OK, you will have approximately 5.75 cubes NET after every displacement imaginable. Port should be tuned to 33hz but may fluctuate between 32-34.5hz depending on if you change the amount of bracing or the material used. Port will be the following- This is INTERNAL dimensions - 12" wide x 4.25" tall x 15.5" deep. The actual port is 17" deep but you account for 1.5" of that as being the double baffle, you just add 15.5" behind the double baffle for a total of 17". PORT location OPENING measured from LEFT to RIGHT, BOTTOM to TOP- 15" from the left to 27" from the left standing 4.25" off the floor. Here is a pic of it showing that the port length added inside the box will not interfere with screwing any subs into place- I will be working on showing where the bracing will be going tomorrow and thursday then i'll have some 3D pics of that for you. So, you will be built to 5.75 cubes NET tuned to ~33hz with a port velocity less than 10% speed of sound for your amp's wattage range. At this tuning level, with the exception of your car's peak frequency, your response graph is almost completely flat so this will not only get loud on the lower end but will also stay smooth while enjoying other music as well.

lol, if it were mine, i'd be spending close to $200 on building this sucker with just mdf and bracing but i like overkill because i compete. Let's say 2x4s since i dont know the size of dowels off the top of my head. Ok thanks, let me get the rest of the design. Oh, go ahead and order those subs anytime now, you have the proper room for them, Minimum is 0.6 ported Optimal is 1.1 ported Maximum is 1.66 ported This setup will allow each sub to see approx 1.3-1.5, i'm not done designing it yet so u are well within range.

Hey, i'm gonna spill out all kinds of info so make sure you understand it, hehe. I'm currently workin on your design right now, you will be using external dimensions of 42" wide x 17" tall x 22" deep. This IS what i am going with. You will be using a double baffle on this box. Box material will be constructed out of 0.75" material. I need to know what bracing material you will be using, Wooden dowels or 2x4s? Internal dimensions- 40.5" wide x 15.5" tall x 19.75" deep. Your speaker Outer Diameter is 10.91", i went ahead and rounded up to 11" for a hair more headroom for accidental measurement inaccuracy. Your Baffle design- The border around this baffle is showing the thickness of the wood. I wanted to show you that ALL the subs will have 1 point that will be screwing into an adjacent piece to hold the subs to the baffle. This is not a problem, i just wanted to let you know this. I made sure that no subs would need to be screwed through the floor. Here are the CENTER points for which the subs will be mounted. Do NOT shift these points or your subs will not fit. To make sure they will fit before cutting out the holes, take a compass and put it on the center point and draw an 11" diameter circle(5.5" radius) and NO circle should overlap another. They will come close but will not overlap. These measurements are being measured from LEFT to RIGHT, Bottom to TOP- Sub #1- 5 17\32" x 6 9\32" Sub #2- 15 11\32" x 11 7\16" Sub #3- 26 3\4" x 11 7\16" Sub #4 - 36 15\32" x 6 9\32" Those are your center point locations for drilling\cutting your mounting hole. I will now be working on your port and Bracing design. PLEASE tell me what material you will be using for bracing so i can get this done tonight.

u can get a hifonics Brutus 1200w amp for ~$200. These amps are just a little dirty so u start clippin your subs and they will go bye bye in no time.