shizzzon

that's a low pass filter. What you set it to will prohibit frequencies above it to play as loud. It will gradually "rolloff". So, you will need to set it to around 80hz. Anything higher exhibits unusual sound as subs aren't really meant to play in this range while already playing the substage. Not only that, but in this range, it also starts forcing your amps to draw large amounts of current to produce those higher frequencies that are already not as audible as 30-60hz normally is and puts an unnecessary load on your electrical system.

OK, pics as promised! yay! hehe. Here is a pic of the wall(once it's sealed) at night - Here is a small pic of the outside of the car with some lights goin on- Now, before i show you the other 2 LED pics, here is a pic of what the hatch area looks like during the day time- OK, now since u see where everything is placed, this is what it looks like at night-

Ascendant audio recommends 1.5 - 2.5 CF ported for a 12" & 1.5-3.0 CF Sealed for a 15". Both of these recommendations seem small to me but I guess they just like small enclosures. Does your response still apply? I didnt know they recommended that low.. Still yet, fact is, even if u compare 1.5 to 2.5, a 1.5 box would take longer to reach it's peak.... which would act somewhat like a sealed box. Like KU40 said, the 12 would most likely be louder on a meter because it would have to peak sometime yet the sealed box would be more consistent and more ideal for the space at hand.

anything 1200w or less and they will sound great. anything abover 1200w and under ~2400w, they will be brute force loud and can use the copper coil version. Anything over that and under 4,000w, get aluminum coil. These subs are geared to be tuned high and still retain the low end due to their high excursion capabilities. Tuning to 35hz is the lowest AQ recommends. 38-40hz is normally recommended.

4-5 cubes per 15 sounds a little high comparing the box recommendations to the 187 10 and 12. I'd say 3 cubes would be fine per 15, if u had room for 4 cubes net per than do it... Most subs i see that are 12" like to be in around 2.5 cubes or a hair under... IA suggests not to go over 2 which is good on space. Most 15s i see like 4 cubes so going by the 12s, i'd say 3-3.5 cubes NET should be the hot spot for their 15s.

the 15 because you would be starving the 12 for airspace. When putting a sub into a tiny ported enclosure, it somewhat responds like a sealed enclosure. Whatever the box is tuned to, it won't peak for several frequencies above it's tuning instead of just a couple. The smaller the box, the longer it takes to peak...

u sure u wanna go sealed if it's space related? I can get u a design to get those 12s ported with the batt and all amps in the hatch area and keep the rear seats intact and in their normal seating position. Let me know...

As you know, i host my own array of test tones but i am about to delete those tones and create a fresh batch of them that is properly compressed and a lot more to choose from! So, before i jump in and do my own thing, please let me know if there are any tones or waves that you would want in the batch.. i am pretty good a audio and video editing so think of something and let me know. Here is the current specs of the test tones being created- Sine Waves- Individual frequencies from 1-100hz. From 100-1000hz in 25hz increments. From 1000-20000hz in 100hz increments. Square Waves- From 20-100hz in 1hz increments. Sweeps- Audio clip - from 1hz-20000hz (-3db amplitude for safety) Duration 17 minutes- Ultimate Staging track. Audio clip - from 20hz-100hz (-3db amplitude used for finding peak note) Duration 1min 21 seconds. Audio clip - 100hz - 5000hz (-3db amplitude used for testing midrange) Duration 5 minutes. Audio clip - 1000hz - 20000hz (-3db amplitude used for testing high range) Duration 5 minutes. All sine and square waves are recorded on a 60 second time scale at 0db, the absolute maximum before clipping occurs. The reason why i chose -3db amplitude for the sweeps is to ensure the safety of the speakers and that heat buildup will be at it's minimum. If there is anything else you may like to see, post it here. These tones are being worked on as we speak and should be ready by the end of the month.

i'll do it tomorrow afternoon. Gotta work in the mornin so i'll get a couple pics of it in the mornin and upload them when i get home.

This is how u do it- Front batt-(less than 18" away)-FUSE-----------(less than 18" away from rear batt)-FUSE-rear batt-(less than 18" away from rear batt)-FUSE---amp. You should add a relay(solenoid) back there too. If you do, the solenoid would go right before the fuse meets the rear battery. This will prevent the batt from equalizing with the starting batt. When car is on, they will both be charging together but when car is off, they won't share each other's capacity. This should allow them to last longer. www.oznium.com sells the 200A relays cheap. Be careful though, going to that site has been known to cause LED addictions and there is currently no known LED rehab yet.

OK, i got all my lighting done on my car today. You guys already know about all my wheel well lights and underbody kit. Well, now i finished installing 2 18" blue LED strips around the AQ amps, got both crossflow fans wired to a switch so they aren't on when it's unnecessary, got 3 4chip superflux UV LEDs illuminating the battery floor and 5 4chip superflux UV LEDs illuminating the wall with the 4 15s on it. The very next thing i gotta do is gain match my AQ amps... and i can't do that until phi answers his phone, lol (gotta have 2 people do match them properly.) After they are matched... then i will be sealing it and officially forming the wall.

2 15s > 1 18.

I can guarantee you that the 2nd video was metering close to if not over a 152 since that song peaks at the same frequency that i burped it a week ago when i was just foolin around.

this weekend, i plan on having the rest of my leds and fans functioning. That means that sometime next week, i am gonna start prepping to seal the car off. This may take a couple days to prep and do a design but once i know how i'm gonna do it, it should be sealed by the end of next weekend. At that time... a new level of spl should unfold...

Video number 2 - I think i shocked someone with this one... Just wait til i get done with the install.

Video Number one- It appears he likes the bass... or at least for a few seconds anyways- The other one will be posted in less than 10 minutes.

ok, gots 2 reaction videos for ya. I'll post them in order of least to best, gotta save the best for last. Gimme a few minutes while i edit and upload the first one.

just wanted to let some of u know... i'm bout to get an opportunity to doa reaction video even though i still havent changed anything yet.i'm over at phi's house right now. he has a car wash real close to his housewith possible unsuspecting car audio lurkers.he tells me it's where most people in the area go to jam...well, i am suppose to be taking someone over there somewhat soon so if i do...i'll have her reaction at the minimum.

I like to keep tweakin test tones and have a question about something- When analyzing the test tones i generate, using a pure sine wave, i get a 30db amplitude reading. Now, if i generate a square wave, i get 32db amplitude. So... in theory, the generated square wave will produce higher levels of spl at a lower power level... But.. does a generated square wave have the same effect as a forced square wave? meaning... will the sub(s) heat up quicker even with a non-clipped signal compared to a generated sine wave? I'm assuming a generated square wave will clip sooner than a sine wave due to the increase in amplitude... I'm speculating on whether it would be worth my time testing square vs sine on the mic to see if one can meter a higher number. The other fear i have is will a clipped generated square wave have the potential to cause sub failure many times quicker than a clipped generated sine wave?

this is kinda pointless but for overkill ideas, you can always install an intercooler under your radiator. You might have to replace your radiator with a smaller one and a new fan but an intercooler will sure help. Some people who race install nitrous kits that shoot through the intake system to cool the temps in the manifold ONLY. This method would be pretty stupid for you though if u had to use it a lot because nitrous isn't cheap for everyday use, lol. cold air intake, intercooler, maybe a tranny cooler as well, a better oil cooler(as long as texas doesnt ever drop to freezing and you decide to drive short distances in freezing temps, oil cooler would help too.)

caps can also help in spl competitions as well to maintain constant voltage for those couple seconds as long as u have farad for what you're outputting. a cap is like tweaking your electrical system. You should only decide to tweak it only if it already works and nothing wrong with it. Kinda like overclocking a computer. You don't wanna OC a pc that crashes all the time... if it's stable, then OC it and see how much better u can get.

if u want cheap but loud, u need to go ported so it can extend the 20hz range more efficiently than a sealed box can. And also, it be able to get that low, you will need a pretty decent rated xmax so the little 3-7mm xmax ratings on partsexpress arent gonna cut it. Mach5's MJ18 is your best bet. If you dont like spending money, then you will have to step down to a 15 or 12 but if i were doing something like this and i already had the amp, i would be lookin at spendin around $1,500 for the subs, wire and box material. I would buy as many MJs as possible.

maybe not all the wires in the wire harness that connect to the alternator is making contact.contact iraggi and ask him what to check for when using a dmm to troubleshoot

drive around a while until ur battery is fully charged then remeasure voltage.measure it at the alternator, battery, in line fuse, then amp's terminal.if its still low, turn car off, wait a few minutes then measure voltage on battery terminal.if its older style lead acid, should be 12.6.agm and/or sealed - 12.8-13.0vkeep having the battery charged until it reads this high.if it never gets that high, take batt to have it tested.

you need more than just an alternato.you need at LEAST 1 XS D3100 back there.u have crazy voltage drops because of this.once u install a batt back there, monitor charging voltage in between idle and 1000rpm for the next 24 hrs or so then get back too us if u still have a voltage charging issue.