shizzzon

35-40hz tuning is what u are looking for. To build your box to the proper size, i would need to know what subs, how many and how much power you have available for them. this will let me know a good tuning within the range i specified so u can still get the lows without ripping the spider off by accident.... as long as ur settings stay constant.

I tried to talk someone into lettin me make a demo video of the car with him in it... well, unfortunately, he denied the offer... here is his response- I'll keep trying though...

for it to drop in the 10s, sounds like u have NO batts in the rear... I run over 7kw worth of amps in my ride and i only have a D3100 and a D5100 and a 250 mechman alt and i have no voltage issues whatsoever. Before i put the batts in, i had mad voltage problems, even with it accelerated, but extremely bad at idle.

so whatcha plan on runnin? I got a build quite similar. 4 15" custom DC Lvl4s and 2 AQ3500ds. My port's in the middle too but on top rather than the bottom and 223 sqin of port. I'm still not done yet but everything is functioning at the moment. I don't have my baffle no where near as close to the sides of the car as u do as part of my goal is to not damage upholstery in the process of finishing this build. With it not sealed, amp's not gain matched yet, not tuned to car's peak and clip-free signal, i was able to pull a 151.2 just foolin around at 58hz. Another user here runnin DC has 2 18s in a wall off of 3000w and did a 150.6 @50hz.

should be about $25 per sub

request Level 5 D1 coils.

oh definitely, u so close already. What have you done to help with your score. I'll try to help me and you out together since i'm workin on my wall still. I did a 151.2 at 58hz off of 4 15s and 228A of current draw. I don't have the wall sealed at all, amps not gain matched, box not tuned to car yet and that's a clip-free burp, so i got LOTS of potential left. If there is nothing you have done yet to help ur score, try some of these things- I'm assuming you have your wall sealed. If you have access to a mic, anything that reads over 150 will do, open your hatch and burp, let subs cool, recharge batt, recheck voltage level and make sure it's the same before re-burping again with the hatch closed. If you get a louder score with door closed... you need more sealant material. Take your hand and run it around the box completely at around half volume on a test tone and see if u can feel any air coming out of the box including around the subs and port(not in the port,around it, lol). since your port is in the middle of the car like mine, you are gonna have to test and see which side of the car is louder, passenger or driver side. Remember, if driver side is louder, opening passenger window or door will help and vice versa. Decreasing the volume in the cabin area is the goal so flip down sunvisors, scoot one or both seats all the way forward, open your glove box and console... Try each of those one at a time. Fill your rear floorboard with something... anything to decrease volume. also, make sure you are playin the right tone too. If u got a DMM and ammeter, measure the AC voltage and amps coming off the amp. Divide amps into voltage to get live resistance. Do this at your maximum burp potential. Once you have this number, calculate how high your impedance rise is... Let's say you have 2 dual 1s wired at 1ohm and you are getting 4 ohms even. My dual 1 DCs are 0.9 on the meter. So 4 ohm even is a 4.444x rise in impedance. If you can wire both subs in parallel, then multiply your rise number by the current DCR value and it be calculated above 1.0000 ohms, then it should be safe to wire in parallel and burp with tremendous amount of power. You need to test this method though. Sometimes, you must let it rip at max volume immediately, other times, you must roll it up. Rolling the volume adds little resistance and is sometimes necessary for such wiring configurations.

under the amp is pointless, just mount them on the feet of the amp. I mounted 2 amps on a box i had runnin 4400w of power for a year and no problems... sold both amps and they still work fine. I can do 4 for $6, 6 for $8 or 8 for $10. That is shipped prices. Your whereabouts do not matter as USPS could care less, When u are about to run your screw threw the amp's feet, run a screw through these first so u already have a hole to go through. If you don't they'll be turning the entire time you are trying to fasten the screw down and you don't want that. Remember to predrill your hole too.

I use luxury liner pro from www.secondskinaudio.com as sound suppression that i mount underneath all feet of my equipment to ensure nothing i mount might get damaged due to vibrations. I use it on all my amps, fuse blocks, fans and inverter. It is pretty expensive if u try to buy a small amount of it but if u wanted to, i could sell u some cut pieces already. This is what i use for my amp feet- I cut them in 1.5" long x 1" wide. One for every mounting position. All amps i've seen have 4 mounting places, one in each corner. If you want any of these, pm me and i'll sell u some for cheap and mail em to ya USPS.

dont get the wardens if u plan on playing music with that tuning.

i use a 30A relay off my HU's turn on wire. From there, it runs to a multi distro block which i connect all my accessories to.

how much extra cabin gain should i expect to see once the wall is sealed on average? When i had my 2 12s in the rear facing forward and ported to the side, i had a 21db cabin gain. Now, with this box, non sealed.. amp's not gain matched yet and no car mods to help the score, i am getting a 10.6db cabin gain right now. Just curious how much i should expect.

i've got 2 8.5" crossflow fans. I'm not gonna hook em up until i get all my lights installed. These wires are so small, i'm just gonna wait til i get everything so i can join them all together. my 18awg ring terminals are too large for these wires, it's ridiculous.

ok, pic a little dark but here is the back of the car now. There is still lots of lights that are gonna be powered back there but this is the layout- I just took it out with phi to listen to a few songs... Hehe, i think i scared him a couple times... it's VERY LOUD... still clip-free, non-sealed and amp's not gain matched yet.,, and tuned to 54hz! Not a lot of songs i can play tuned to 54hz but i can still drop down to around 37hz before i start unloading. Pretty good, almost 20hz below tuning. I will start building test ports for the rest of the month to start testing different designs.

I can't get a lot of info and no reviews for this pro audio speaker i guess because it's new... I currently have a sundown 100.4 and a set of ID components rated for 100wrms per side. I want to bridge my components to the sundown 100.4 but i'm sure it will kill them due to too much power.. Question is- If i purchase these pyle pro PNDW6 6.5s, where do i look at replacing my current crossover with a new one so i dont burn it up due to too much power. I looked on partsexpress but it looks like u have to finish building them, i'm looking for already built ones.

i dont know if i'm right but if i am, then yea. I dont use remote bass boost knobs so i'm guessing.

i think bass boost knobs and gain knobs work different. Bass boost knobs are not dependent on what is set at the amp, therefore u can get full effect out of the remote knob if wanted. Gain knobs are solely dependent on the amp's settings. Whatever the amp's gain is set at, the gain knob cannot surpass this.

i run 8awg in my terminals. I would not recommend trying to parallel the connections at the terminals though... not with 8awg, lol. Instead, like me, you can run wire from each terminal + and - to an area where u can then do your parallel wiring and use butt connectors.

Your box is 7.45 cubes NET as long as you keep the subs inverted. If you install subs normally, it will be around 7 cubes NET. The port is 5" tall but the back where the port starts in the box, it is 5.5". I went ahead and assumed the box would pick this up as part of the port. Also, since it's slotted, we'll take another 2.5" of acoustical length inside the box for additional port length which should make your box tuned to- 24.5hz, that's crazy low. If you drop subs in normally, it would be tuned to approximately - 25.3hz. Is this for home theater, lol?

ok i'll have specs in just a few.

but what i'm sayin is u say u have a 45 in the port... and the port length u gave makes me think the port bends in the back and continues along the height of the box... I need to know if this is true or not.

i think u should do something basic first.. and it's free, Yay!! hehe. When sitting at idle with stereo OFF, measure voltage at your starting battery. Now measure voltage at the power\ground terminals on the amp. Tell us what the voltage difference is.

Well, i burped a 151.2 at 58hz for several seconds with the sunroof flipped out and had someone else watch what it was doing. Apparently, the glass itself is not to worry. Therefore, breakproof laminate sheeting is probably not necessary. What IS the problem is the arm that holds the front glass... Since this arm rides on a track and doesn't lock into place when open, it can easily move by just pressing down on the arm and that is what causes the violent-like shaking of the glass. if u keep your car sealed, it wont flex as much if that's an option.

take a sub out so u can finish measuring the port.sounds like it turns in the box.ur bow is 10.13 cubes GROSS, not NET.i'm estimating box to be under 8 cubes total so dont know til i get rest of port length

now since you've drilled a hole, regardless if it's sealed or not, you should always use silicone to prevent the metal from rusting.