shizzzon

just got done doing voltage drop testing with different battery configurations. With NO battery in the rear off of 1 AQ3500d, voltage falls below 12.5v(exact unknown because audio is set to shutoff when this happens). Db =147.94 with 2 15s. With 2 D5100s = 120aH off of 2 AQ3500ds and 4 15s, voltage started at 14.2v and immediately dropped to 13.4v then eventually worked it's way down to 12.0v even after a 7 sec burp. Db= not tested With 1 D3100 and 1 D5100 off of 2 AQ3500ds and 4 15s, voltage started at 13.6v and eventually worked it's way down to 12.5v after a 7sec burp. Db=151.21. So, i went from a 147.94 with 1 AQ3500d, 2 15s and no batts to a 151.21 with 2 AQ3500ds, 4 15s and 177aH worth of batts. Keep in mind, the wall is NOT sealed, no car modifications for better score has been attempted yet, no port tuning, amps not 100% gain matched, and most importantly... 100% Clip-free signal! Maximum current draw for these tests- 228A so there is some high rise for that frequency i used.

that can also be good news.less space = less spending + less equipment requirement to pressurize volume .

with what u wanna run, i'd look into the following- Drop the weight of your subs for one. Those subs i believe weigh over 50lbs a piece. Get some 12s if u set on 4 of them that weigh in the low to mid 30s at most. Building the box out of 34" birch is hella expensive, approx $100 for wood and will only save you 20% of the weight. So, if ur 8cuft box was gonna be 150lbs, birch would make it 120lbs... not that much noticeable. Batts- there is no light batt with large aH... so u have to compensate. recommended to reduce your amplifier power so you do not need as many batts.

there won't be a hole, there will be grommets. There is ALWAYS the rubber boot WAY up underneath the driver floorboard. Rubber boots need to be cut from both sides and is a Biotch to pass large cable through. You can always go to lowes and purchase or special order Alflex\Southwire flexible conduit and run your power line through this underneath the car and up through the back.

this is why i base my setups on weight limitations on my car. Coil overs for the rear for a car are about $1500 installed. Airride is $3000-6000 installed. You must remember, raising the car alone does not increase the weight capacity. Now, installing airride will give u about an almost unlimited weight capacity but is the most expensive. My car has a 800lb limit. I try to stay no higher than 450lbs.

yea, get a DMM set your stereo to start playing and walk to your battery and watch the meter... Also, since you use a bandpass enclosure, if there is something wrong with your sub(s) or box itself, it will be almost impossible to troubleshoot unless you open the box up and inspect for damage. Bandpass boxes lots of times audibly hide problematic clipping and design faults so it's hard to tell when damage is being done until it's already happened.

u know me, i'm the weight concern guy, lol looks like about 740lbs of weight being installed... I hope it ISN't a car! Most cars can only handle 800lbs maximum and that doesn't include the weight of the driver either. in experience, if u are concerned about small box size, larger amounts of power helps and it looks like you'll have it too. Do not attempt to play this for long durations at a time as 1 alt probably isn't gonna suffice unless you have high rise in your box.

i'll give u an idea on what happens when u dont have a batt in the car but a high output alt- I currently have a 250A mechman ($500-650) alt and stock battery up front running a 3500w AQ amp and a Sundown 100.4. As long as the rpms are at or over 1800rpm, my voltage stays above 12.5v, if i let it drop below 1800rpm, the voltage sags big time. Also, when the rpms are over 1800rpm, the alt is putting major lag on the engine causing a large loss of horsepower... like you are towing something. Extra battery(ies) prevent steep voltage drops and reduce stress on alternator as long as the batts stay charged.

this is my daily driver but i'm not spraying it directly onto the car. I'm wrapping the entire area in fabric. I will then create a boundary with cardboard. Small sections that i cannot create a boundary for, the fabric will catch it. After i create the boundary, i just spray and fill.

i also forgot to add that the wall is not sealed up at all yet.... I might have some more pics sometime this week of the install section.

no tuning or anything, just a curious test- I have 2 subs hooked up to the wall that is peaking at 58hz right now.. Have and will not do any tuning until the build is done so i was just curious as to what it was doing meter-wise. Again, no batteries in the back yet so major voltage drop right now. Only my stock battery is up front in the car. 1 AQ3500d used to burp at 58hz, registered a 147.94... NO CLIPPED signal on a Hyperdynamics meter. My meter comparison tests have shown my meter to be about 1.2 db lower than a TLab... ALSO, that was, again, no clipped signal. Clipping the signal to the max would normally gain me around 1-1.5db ... Add that to the score along with the difference in meters... i can probably break a 150 on a tlab right now with no tuning and no batts, Big things are to come...

hey, i know what u mean. what is your loudest metered score in that car with doors open and what frequency? In my last setup, i did a 148 flat at 42hz and a hair over 147 at 34hz. When my sunroof was open, the small piece in front that flap up would absorb the most flexing while the sunroof itself would move just a little. When the car is sealed up, there is no flexing issue. That setup was 2 12s in the hatch and 4400w of power tuned to 38hz. My new setup is 4 15s off of 7000w tuned somewhere between 32-40hz... wont know til i start test n tuning. Anyways, my original plan was just to listen to music with all doors and windows shut on low notes and burp in the high range because my car is peaking around 60hz with this wall i have. If you think u or I is gonna have a problem, i will be contacting my installer tomorrow about a project i might have him do. ACE Security Level 4 Laminate Sheeting for your sunroof(or all glass on the top of the car. Must be accessible from inside to install.) It costs around $8-12 per sqft plus $40 shipping. This sheeting is 20 mils thick! They warned me about installing this on my sunroof to be VERY careful and not break the glass... this is why i gotta contact my installer about it and make sure he can be prepared for this new project. I have Level 3 all the way around my car right now which is 14mil thick. ACE Security told me this sheeting should prevent the glass from cracking. OF course it may flex but this sheeting is break proof to a degree and somewhat bulletproof.

approx 53" wide x 4" tall on top, and both sides consisting of approx 6" wide x 34" tall. I was told by someone else to create a barrier and fill it in with expanding foam... Well, i'd like to create a wall of foam, not fill the entire void because each side has a void of about 3.2 cuft and i don't like the idea of filling the entire void on each side with that much foam.

well, all else fails, take it to the dealer and have them ensure that if they do something to attempt to fix it, it better be under a lengthy warranty for how long u can go before it does it again.

the way it sounds... i am almost willing to be that u have an underdrive pulley on your car... The reason why i say that is you've obviously changed everything else and it doesnt do it all the time... Underdrive pulleys have been known to cause some problems on some cars. I'm not saying it's common for an underdrive pulley to cause issues.. but if u have one, i would take a day or two and replace it with a standard pulley and then go back out and drive for a couple months or however long it takes for it to cause overheating problems... But.. whatever you do, do NOT get an overdrive pulley, that would just make troubleshooting and problems worse.

snoopdan uses pink panther insulation to seal around his box so it acts like a wall in his cherokee. I just got done building my box in my scion tc with 4 15s and i need to seal around it so it can act like a wall. I was gonna use pink panther but have 2nd thoughts because it states that it's purely a thermal barrier, not acoustic barrier. Is there any methods u guys use or can persuade me with facts as to continue to go with pink panther insulation or is there a better method?

yea, i already got it cut for u man. 56ft ready to go. call me and let me know when u gonna be here so i can make sure my deadly beast is in the house.

got the subs in the wall.. I gotta get some more wire terminals before i can continue workin on it but it is insanely loud tuned in the high 50s the way it is right now off of just 2 15s turned half way up.

you run the probes to the speaker terminals. Start cranking the gain until the signal clips on the oscope.

decided to hookup one of the amps today to make sureit worked... yea it does.i only had 1 amp goin on 2 of the 15s.volume on 4 out of 31... the drywall in the house wasresonating!i believe when i am done with this install, any one ofu guys will be able to hear it right where u r at!

More picture time. I got the main floor base installed today. There will be 2 AQ amps mounted on this floor and a Sundown 100.4 mounted on the left side wall. The extra all-thread to the far right will hold an elevated floor to the right to secure my batteries in place. So, here are the pics- Here is material i use to ensure that all my amps i mount are protected from vibrations caused by bumps and holes in the road. This will ensure any amp i use will be in top notch shape. I put these underneath all feet of all amps so no harm can be done to the insides of the amps- Here is a pic showing them under the feet- And here are both AQ amps mounted... - I will be attempting to get the sundown amp and al the wiring for the AQ amps done tomorrow... hopefully.

just before i just got home, i had to detour because of something major happening around my neighborhood... 6 ambulances.. 3 fire trucks have blocked off the road and police are swarming... I do not know what's goin on but i think something fatal has happened by my house too.

series is 4 ohm, not 1 ohm. parallel is 1 ohm, not 4 ohm. Fuses on an amp is there to protect the incoming current, not the output, lol. 30x3= 90A of protected incoming current. If the amp were to constantly pull this or higher, it will blow. You can still damage that sub as i have a feeling you will with this amp so before you damage it, have the amp tuned properly and ask what is the maximum volume that the amp has been tuned too. Once you know this, never go any higher than this and never increase any other setting either!

let me know when it starts to feel like something is being poked into your ear and wont stop while going up a hill and cant pop your ears and your eardrums start to feel like they are compressing and you can gradually feel a headache commin along... When you start to feel that, then you are in need of some ear plugs from here on out if that is for long term usage.

here is the floor that all the amps and batts are mounting too. The allthread is there so i can use elevated flooring to hold more stuff in the back. I'll add extra floors as time goes on. In case you're wondering, the left side wall is where the Sundown 100.4 is being mounted. All those square holes on the bottom are "breathing vents" for my AQ3500ds. They will also be cooled by those 2 crossflow blowers i talked about earlier too.