shizzzon

thought about it forever, but the cost of extra wire, extra terminals, bolts, and the fear of them coming loose... i venture to this method.

you know, after sitting and thinkin about it, i think i know what i'll do. I'll cut the 2 holes out i need then run like a 3" long pvc pipe through it. glue it and seal it up real good. then get 2 grommets that would fit the 2 ends of the pvc pipe. run all the wire through the pipe then stick the nozzle in there and fill the entire pvc pipe up with foam. that should do it.

So... i was wondering what are the effects of running 2 giant gobs of wire out of a wall(8 runs of 8awg per side), one on each side of the wall and filling it in with whatever. this would just seem to cause some loss in SPL wouldnt it? I dont know if i just fill it in with silicone or should i shoot expanding foam in there... i dont know? Also, when i'm messing with the wire any, if the wire gets moved through the hole, would it "un-seal" the hole?

u might have low voltage at the amp, that doesnt mean the whole car is experiencing it as well. Quick thing to do- Turn off stereo first. Unplug the remote wire going into the other amp then turn your stereo on. Blast the hell out of it liek you normally would and see if that fixed the problem. If it did, you need a battery back there. If it didn't, then you will need to play a constant test tone pretty loud but being careful not to damage your subs and check the current voltage reading at the amp's power and ground terminal. If it's below 11v, you definitely need a battery back there. If it's above 11v, well, it's not low voltage problem.

i see u r in indiana. I will set your amp up for free if you dont mind driving to Louisville, KY. I have an o-scope so it will be a lot more accurate.

if u dont have the space, then dont run something that requires it. Also, as long as you are within 10% of the actual internal volume, there shouldnt be any audible difference.

shizzon, how did you manage to fit 7,432 batts in a scion? This one tops em all right now.... but then again... when did we start putting ring terminals in other terminals?

after doing extensive research about this- The answer is = 1\4" I've always used 3\4" regardless how small the internal volume was and wouldnt use anything smaller.

didnt get much done because i am\will be very busy the rest of the week but i did get something done. I got the Baffle mounted today, Yay!!! I used a whole caulking tube of Liquid Nails in under 20 minutes.... well 60% of the tube anyways. I had already used some previously. I ran out so i gotta pick some more up tomorrow. I have to fill in a couple small gaps, then make my "special" rounded corners, four more of those, seal the entire front part of this box up real good.. then get ready to run over 50ft of 8awg wire for the speaker wire coming soon. Once that's ran, the 2x4s will then be aligned and tightened and thread-locked into place. Once this is done.. the next BIG thing is attaching the rear chamber to the front chamber and securing it to the car in one process... yes this will be fun in a bad way,

Well, that should be the end of this topic.. That amp is very nice. I would definitely get that over the Audiopipe. Because it can output the same power over various loads, the average output power this amp can put out would be higher than most other amps giving you a louder overall install... meaning more bang for your buck.

get dual 2 ohm, it will save you money on the amp. For an amp, get an Audioque AQ1200d. I believe it's 249 shipped so u can use your other dollar you saved to get something to drink while it's hot as hell right now.

what i do is setup my amps with 0db tones i create. Mainly because i compete so i gotta make sure i get the most clean signal out for test tones. For music, i always turn it up higher than the volume i had it set at when using an o-scope for the same reasoning u said above, to get more power due to minimal clipping. I don't turn it up much higher but a little bit higher.

Switch themes and it will go away.

what r u talking about? maybe i can help you

same as a regular port... except the port does not displace any internal volume so you pick your internal volume and take displacement for sub away and your done. If u know you got room to add a port later after box is built.. then that is your external port.

it actually depends on the driver. Drivers with large Xmech values can be tuned higher than others because they have excursion capability of playing below tuning before completely bottoming out. I can't say this and that driver can do it, it's pretty much trial and error per install. My last setup with 2 AQ HDC3 12s was tuned to 38hz but the SSF was set to 24hz so i could receive maximum movement out of these subs.

I hope so! I had to stop working today due to pain... I am using Nylon polylock nuts on the outside of the box on the all-thread so once they are on, they arent coming off. Well, i can't get a socket wrench back there so i have to use a pipe wrench to hold the allthread steady, a crescent wrench to hold the inside nut from turnin and another crescent wrench to turn the nylon polylock nut 1\4 turn at a time. I don't know if u have ever tried tightening one of these nuts before but once the nylon hits the threads, it's like tryin to tighten something that's already tightened. The only problem is... this is the stage where you start tightening, hehe. I spent 42 minutes tryin to finish tightening this one nut and still am not done. I had to stop because i got work tomorrow and it's labor intensive and i dont want to hurt myself the day prior to work. It's gonna be hella hot here tomorrow so i'm definitely not workin on it tomorrow but hopefully tuesday. Once i get that nut, the other side nut(which i'm dreading), i just have a couple quick tight jerks on the 2 inside nuts, then i go and start sealing everything up in that area real good! This will also be the time where i install the other corner pieces i am using. This takes 3 days of cure time to complete so once i get the corners in place... i move to the rear of the box and finish installing that while the corners are curing. I am honestly almost done building this design. What's gonna take some time is waiting for my amp to come in and making a new floor covering for the hatchback area and redesign it so it will safely hold my 2 batteries and 3 amps in the rear... Oh and run my 60+ft of 8awg speaker wire. I'm dreading that too, hehe. I'm hopin that by the end of this coming weekend, this thing should be put together. Maybe not 100% complete done but the box complete.

hehe, not you, Earsplitter wanted to know hwo i was able to get over 7,000 batteries in my car.

lol, i hope u are not serious? Gotta have a little humor in my sig.

they should be here within the next 2 weeks or so. Here is some more pics for ya guys- So you wanna know how to brace an enclosure with 4 15s? Here's one way- The 2x4s are not secured to the box yet until i put the subs in so they will be lose for a while but this is how it will look when complete, of course the back is still not put on yet but you get the idea- The orange is fluorescent paint. It looks rather splattered on there right now but once the subs are mounted to the baffle and it's nighttime, that orange will be the only thing you wil see and will be VERY bright at night.

actually, u can get em for under 350. Any good? as far as i know, that amp is similar to the 3000w Massive audio amp. Massive Audio is pretty decent for competition and street beating. I would classify Audiopipe as a Lanzar\Hifonics type company.

i'll have them once they come in. They are commin in from Toronto so it will be a while. Plus, it was 2 separate shipments since the custom DC Audio logo had to be made. It's nothing fancy so dont start hype about that. I'll just take pics once they are installed since it's hard to see them in the wrap they come in. I'll try and take em at night because they are all reflective vinyl so they "light up" at night.

ah good info.

i have to as per rules of being on a Team,

if it's a monoblock amp, then it is wired in parallel inside. A DMM will tell u this once it's hooked up. It will only parallel connections if you havent done so already. If your connections are already in parallel or series, running a single line of positive and negative to the amp will not change anything.