shizzzon

You have to stay on topic now, what are you DoInG?!?! You can't trail off topic and try to help him or else you'll be asked to stop helping him forever....

i dont have an account over there but i like advancements. Bring it over here.

not safe! dont expect to pull 1000A of current for music through a single 1/0 run of power\ground without either a fire or a fuse popping first in the powerline. 1/0 can only handle between 240-300A. Continuous use... very bad.

After doing some research, it's obvious from an "electrical system" point of view that this amp can't be used for daily. It uses single 1/0 power\ground and single speaker connections. Stated to pull 1000A of current. You would need a minimum of 3 3/0 power AND ground connectors to support that feed safely. I'm a daily driver so i'm out. Now, for those in comps who burp ONLY, then you should keep close eyes on this thread.

IF they say there's nothing wrong with his amp after this long thread... then it's not our fault for missing something as i cant see any other possible reason for such problems. It would be clearly due to neglected installation if the amp tests fine.

i think it's time to contact AQ and have them inspect it. I know it sucks that you are about to move so u gonna need to tell them that so they know where to ship it back to you.

You should expect the people who don't believe because i disagree until proven wrong. So, since i have stated this, i'm gonna start off with the power rating- If the same current were being pulled during 12.6 and 14.4 measurement, then at 14.4v, the amp would only output 5,700w. The only other thing i could see happening is the higher the voltage... the higher the efficiency... That would still be a BIG efficiency jump if this is true. The small footprint that this company is known for is unique like critical mass is to subwoofers. Having said that, i'm sure it's patented information to ask how exactly they have done it but a more basic question is... How can a company make such a powerful amp in a case that usually houses a 1,000w amp? The thing that concerns me is long term proper heat dissipation... If they have successfully packed the hell out of this case... how is it safe? They have lots of protection circuits, far more than a normal amp... that also concerns me. How sensitive is it to longterm usage... 1 Yr warranty... Do they not expect long term usage? Someone successfully convince me because i am dumbfounded.

oh no, there isnt, lol. It's just like good sub info to know in case all else fails, someone may be able to check it for ya. I'm not one of those people as i'm in KY but hopefully it's faulty install rather than damaged equipment.

well, tell him what i posted above, use a DMM. If you just cant get anywhere or still clueless, post where your friend is located at city-wise, there may be someone here that may be close enough to do some inspection for him.

hehe, u aren't or weren't laughing when you made this were you? That's pretty vague, i'm kinda smiling at all the information you may have checked, hehe. Ok, check ohm load at amps terminals. It should read something other than 0(or that's why it's in protect) Check the voltage at your amp's power\ground terminals when the amp is turned on. If it's low, i dont know hwo low is too low but lets say lower than 11v, that may be the problem too. You may have damaged somethin inside the amp which is worse case scenario. Best way to rule out the amp being damaged is pull it out of the car and hook it up to a 12v converter and jump the remote over to the power connection before powering it on so the amp can come on. If it still goes into protect... it's damaged. You may need a speaker plugged up to it depending on it's requirements for testing.

Apparently, you need to know this because once your sub gets fixed, the same thing is gonna happen again and from what you just said... i know it will. Just tryin to save you from making the same topic again a couple months from now. Clipped signals dont damage speakers? hmm... That's a touchy way of saying. Clipping alone may not damage a sub but clipping is usually a direct result of speaker damage,

incorrect settings will damage a product, not a song. I can generate a purely clipped signal on purpose and feed it to my setup. I can GUARANTEE it will not damage it because i took the time to ensure that everything was scoped properly. 3 amps, approximately 4 hrs of tuning, no more tuning ever again unless i change somethin...

no, not necessarily. This is the only 1600w amp i have seen in the vibe line- Lanzar Look at the max rating. AQs rated for maximum power at 1 ohm. It's clearly obvious that he could have it wired at 4 ohms instead of 1 ohm.

simple test- check ohm load at speaker terminal on amp. Make sure you touch probes together first to see how off the reading is from 0 then take or add the difference when you measure the load at the amps terminals. You should be reading around 0.7 ohms at the terminals. If you read any higher than 0.8, you have it wired wrong. Even if u do have it wired right, unhook one of the subs and try again to play your setup. Someone mentioned somethin about it being out of phase. This is possible if you spliced the wrong wire during paralleling. I dont know if it would send the amp into protect but check this and let us know somethin.

oh, ok

no, if it did it most of the time, the fuse would pop. Here is a general rule of thumb- Take an amplifier's fuse rating, divide it in half and that's the average pull you should expect. In this case, it's 100A. However, since you are running at 2 ohm isntead of 1 ohm, expect an average fo 50-75A per amp. Of course, the amp will pull more than 100A during hard constant lines but the average rule of thumb is there. You should not use this as a guide only to purchase alt\batts though, it's just a reference.

That's crazy too! And someone else is trying to sell a Critical Mass 12 for only $500! That's insanely low for that sub.

actually i currently run their amps. Since i am buying a used amp... there is no worry of the type of problem i had before.

A website that offered real-world box dimensions for vehicles that have already been built for them.

My intentions are not to brag sarcastically but just to let others know what just happened- I'm trying to sell all of my audio stuff so i can go with 2 AQ HDC318s and 2 AQ3500ds soon in a wall. I just got home and went to check out on my sells before going to bed. What did i see? A used AQ3500d being sold but already 3 pages worth of "you got PM" so i figured it was sold but not yet... Within 5 minutes of seeing this for sale thread, i contacted him and received a price and paypal email... He said, first one who pays gets it! I got plenty of funds so i immediately sent the money and WON he amp! How much? Only $440 for the AQ3500d! It's a nice story, totally unexpected, shocking and grateful this just saved me some money for this new project.

posted in wrong forum...

lol, nice analyzation.

i was curious so did some math- If that's a 15 and those cut out holes are for 10s... I estimated the box to be 32" wide x 16.5" deep x 16.5" tall. Internal volume ~ 3.75 cubes NET. If you were to successfully block the ports and just leave the 1 sub cut out open, it would be tuned to exactly 80hz if all other math is right. Ironically, you might safely be able to set the subsonic down in the mid to high 30s but experiment is highly required to prevent damage.

that's what i'm wonderin. You know what man, lets take it back to pure trial and error since the problem still isnt solved. Put that 50hz test tone back on, turn your head unit up 75% of the way, UNPLUG the remote gain control. Set the gain on the amp 60% up and put the 50hz tone on repeat. Start by turning each control from subsonic on over, one at a time, slowly all the way up, then all the way down and see which control gives you a lot more massive output. This isn't the way you are suppose to do it so if u start smelling somethin burnin or heatin up, turn down immediately. We have given all logical possibilities so this is the next step.

This isn't gonna cause a debate because questions like this are disregarded. Why? Because they are asked all the time. So to make it brief, I'll narrow it down. ICONs are geared toward quality, from what I understand that not distorted, going beyond xmax sound, that you may typically hear when over powering a sub. From what I understand about a BL, I'm sure it has great audible quality too but once it breaks xmax, it's like brute force spl attempting to get as lou as possible. If u are after loud for ur money, best loud for buck, I'm sure BLs are the one, but if u are after constant perfect quality and are shooting 1kw or less per sub, get the ICONs.