shizzzon

i still wish i won it... it weighed 101 lbs, not that heavy at all for that size.

ehh.. i missed it but some other people just got a deal of a lifetime. 60" Pioneer Plasma TVs for $1559.00 shipped Brand New! I was only $30 behind.. oh well.

Well, when my city lost power from Ike's winds, our generator somehow malfunctioned and damaged a lot of my equipment that was on surge protectors... We are in the process of getting hard-wired protection, regulators and new protectors so that should take care of all that. Anyway, it damaged a PSU, my razor, 1 surge protector, my 51" rear projection tv and some plugs. Well, after a week of researching and researching, i'm slowly getting things back out of my pocket and in about 25 minutes, hopefully i'll post on here a deal of a lifetime but if i dont win this item i'm bidding on, then i don't care. I had planned on upgrading one of my pcs before this happened... I'm still expecting too especially now! I just won me a Quad 2.5ghz processor(Intel Q9300) on ebay for $198 ShiPPeD! Newegg is going to be shipping me an Asus board that supports ATI Crossfire with 4 GB of Corsair DDR2 1066 memory for only $290 for both the board and memory. I'll be postin back soon on this "item" i'm trying to win for an ungodly low price. Let's see what happens.

I will sit about 8-9ft away and i am trying to stay in the $900~$1200 range. If i went as high as $1,300... it better be for a real good reason. Again, i would go higher but this is an unexpected purchase so the funds are spontaneous.

Man, i've been doin so much research on this when i have time my head is about to explode so i am going to see if you guys share the same thoughts as what i'm seeing and reading. I had a 51" Hitachi rear projection tv. I am replacing it with a lcd or plasma of at least 50" but am wanting to stay below $1200 or around that since this is an unexpected purchase for myself. I have researched 720 vs 1080 and from what i see... unless i primarily watch blu ray movies or if i am sitting very close to the tv(i usually sit about 8-9ft away), 720 is the way to go since there would then be no visual difference and it's cheaper. The only thing they say is make sure it can accept 1080p signal and all the ones i see do. Question - is 1600p (xHD) going to be the new "thing" in the very near future? I know 1080p screens dont even accept that signal so i shouldnt worry bout future-proofing when it comes to this correct? I have researched lcd vs plasma and i just came back from a store with both displays next to each other playing the same thing so i can see the difference. What i see is while the lcd is brighter, the plasma is more geared toward perfect vivid colors for movie playback while the lcd is more geared toward making sure you can see what you are watching like a bright computer monitor. I noticed that the colors on the plasma were more firm, more to the point in actuality vs the lcd being slightly off color on a particular solid color due to it's excessive brightness. Plasmas are cheaper and may be due to life expectancy but the plasmas i'm looking at have the same 60,000hr rating as lcds do. So, is it safe to say that me choosing a good Samsung\Panasonic 720p Plasma is the way to go without disappointment? What do i use my big tv for? I use it primarily to watch normal cable broadcast through it or a movie played off the computer from time to time. I'll be running HDMI to HDMI from pc to tv when i do this soon. Other than that, i'll be upgrading my pc monitor to a 28" soon so i will NOT be using this tv for computer output unless it's for movie playback ONLY. I am aware of plasma burn in issues so upgrading my pc monitor will allow me to stop using my tv for such purposes. I dont watch blu ray... yet but even if i did, maybe 1-2x a week. I play the wii on my tv but that's only 480p so it's still acceptable. ( i am in the process of gutting my room out for a very large projector system for the wii so i wont have to use this new tv for that either) So am i in the clear for a 720p plasma?

i guess it's ok to post this. Retails for $649 Call them and inquire about a $50 discount. I bought mine during group buy so the price i paid isn't what you will pay.

I just found out what happened. When i was at work, the generator was running... Something funy happened and caught a couple wall sockets on fire. A day later, when we received power, this is when i found all my things destroyed. Now, i have one question. If i had a line conditioner plugged in, would it have prevented anything from getting damaged? Not everything got damaged though.. As a matter of fact, the sockets that caught fire had protectors on them. some other protectors still work, another one got fried, some things on some protectors work, others dont.

i have no idea what MOV-based is but they are all about 8 yrs old, carried $250,000 insurance.... i dont have receipts for any of them.

Well, i just got power back after 2 days of no power from the winds of Ike. One of my pc's PSUs is fried. Another one of my pcs is having random so called software crashed. A 5.1 amp in my room is completely fried. My KVM switch is damaged. My 51" TV is completely fried. One of my surge protectors is fried. Everything that got damaged was on protectors?!?! This just goes to show you that protectors are somewhat worthless. My ps2 was wired directly into the all and it's fine... go figure. So far, repair costs are about $800-1300.

where r u located at? And r u sure that is what you are hearing too? That sounds very odd for any speaker to bottom out just because you are driving faster. Your rpms generally would be the same on the highway, just more steady. More wind is happening so more things move and more sounds appear.... may not be speakers. Extra vibrations could be causing a speaker short and you are hearing speakers pop due to a loose connection. You listen to a lot of hip POP and that is what's causing it, lol There's some ideas.

do an audible test, that'll let you find the xmax for sure. Pick a test tone that is definitely lower than tuning, something that'll unload the subs for sure. Start it with the subsonic filter turned all the way down and the volume on the stereo all the way down too. Have yourself next to the subs and have someone else start slowly turning up the headunit. You will eventually hear the subs surpass the xmax range when the sound of the subs sound like they went clipped or they all of a sudden start to emit a odd loud mechanical noise. Once you hear that, turn it back down til it stops, that should be their xmax. If this is purely an all out quality install, make sure your excursion doesn't surpass xmax and that you do not clip your signal either and you will be in good shape.

you probably need some PA subs since that bus is so much bigger than a normal vehicle.

don't do it. As stated before,it would require modification to the rear deck which will weaken the rear structure. You could do 1 21 without cutting the rear deck but now you still have the problem of everything getting damaged in the long run. I've damaged a Catalytic Converter... 3x in the same car a few years ago due to the excessive low end from a stereo install. IF you don't know you've damaged it, it can cause severe breathing issues for your engine. I have another car's transmission fail in the long run that i blame the stereo system for. So much horsepower was lost in this 4 cylinder i had a long, long, long time ago that it struggled to switch gears.

your mom vs my mom

in my experience, if you are looking for nice quality sound, a 1000-1500w amp per HDC3 is perfect. Anything higher, you'll probably go outside of the linear movement. They can take upwards of around 3k per sub but at these levels, you aren't worried about linear response.

it is recommended to break them in at moderate power levels for 8-10 hrs of use. They can take an ungodly amount of power.

No, i use XS Powermasters. I would use Lifeline but they are just a little big bigger than what i could fit in my car.

hehe, if u want to know kille batts... Check out Lifeline batteries. Their Group 8D is rated for 255aH and i can get those batts for around $400. They float around 13.2-13.4v and can burst from 1100 to 1900 CA from 0 to 68 degrees so perfect for daily bumpin. They weigh about 165 lbs per batt but are the best price to performance spec-wise i have ever seen.

Ok, just go tback with the test results and here they are as follows- When car is sitting at idle, full blast constant bass, the voltage drops 1.1v from rest point. When car is revved to 2700rpm, full blast constant bass, the voltage drops 0.9v from rest point. What does that mean? IF your regulator currently read 14.9v, while driving at full tilt, you would still have worse-case scenario, 14.0v and thats with constant amperage draw from lil jon songs, for example. IF you were at idle at 14.9v blastin it with the same type of songs, worse-case scenario would drop you down to 13.8v. That is still higher than the float voltage of the batts so that's all alternator powering that current demand. We didnt measure it just now but when i set these amps up via o-scope, me and a friend started to do current measurements so i could get an idea of how much power i was lookin at. Because i have high rise i nmy box, the current isnt that great from 5,000w worth of amps but the following is interesting for the alternator from what you now know above. The most power we were able to get out of the amps clipped to hell and back in my application was about 182 amps. So, that tells me than with 182A of draw...., PLUS whatever current my sundown 100.4 draws...., PLUS the amount of current my car draws while running... the alt can still handle it without it dipping into the batts. That's a Hoss.

thats what i use. It's a switch. When it is switched off, (no 12v power source such as ignition), anything that is wired before and after it is isolated from each other. So in my instance- My stock batt up front is isolated from my 3 batts in the rear. When it gets a 12v power source to turn on, everything wired before and after it is seen together. For batts, it is to allow the alternator to charge all batts at once. the terminals up top can be wired in almost any order so i'll break it down for ya. You got 2 large posts and 2 small posts. The 2 large posts are power in, power out. Either one is in and out. The 2 small posts are 12v turn on via ignition and the other is ground. Again, anyone of those 2 that you choose can either be turn on, or ground. When wiring in series and\or parallel, each solenoid is independent so you can always choose with pair of posts shoudl be used for whatever purpose.

sure i dont care i'll pm you my phone number.

i cant answer what voltage i drop to because i need 2 people for that and cant never get 2 people, me being 1, at a convenient time to test that out. My electrical- Stock battery up front. Powermaster- 2 D5100s 1 D3100 1 250A Mechman alt The idle output varies because if there is a need for charging at idle, the voltage will boost to 14.9v. If there is no load present, it will idle at 14.0v. I already posted it's current capabilities at engine speeds above. I know you want the voltage drop but because it's so loud, i have to drive very far away to find that out and doing that plus finding somebody is an obstacle.

They aren't some small company. They are big business.

Well, so far, When all the batteries are charged, i get a steady 14.0 voltage. When any batt needs to be charged or if current is being demanded for the stereo system, the voltage sets at 14.9v. The batts are keeping charged like they should be and i can run both of my 2200ds and my 100.4 for as long as i want to without worry.

Those Immortals are not designed to be used for music for one so it will sound terrible. The original immortals are a different story. The power ratings Audiobahn gives is musical peak power. This means, do not put more than a 2200w amp on it unclipped.