shizzzon

well, the most obvious would be a voltage drop. Regardless of your electrical system get yourself back there with a DMM and watch the voltage while somone else turns on sometin to cause it to go out. Also look at the amp to see if it shuts off or goes into protect as well.. and what the voltage is at the batt when it happens.

Hey Scott, do you still do this for people? I'm researching elternatives for boosting the amount of power i have in my car as i need maximum power at 2 ohms as my impedance curve shows that wired at 0.7 ohms, my lowest drop at full tilt is 2.21 ohms but at moderate levels, the rise drops down to 1.76 ohms so i would need an amp that is lenient or 1 ohm stable as you can see. I know that you have modded these amps before and am sure that even if the procedure isn't 100% full proof, i shouldnt be stressin it as much as my rise is just a hair below the 2ohm threshold. I'm still unsure on what amps to get for certain but this sparked my interest. 4,000w @ 2ohm total is beneficial but i noticed they do 3,600w and i would need 2 of these for 2 Audioque HDC3s. I'm not interested in doing it soon or at all, just curious if you still offer to do this, that's all.

MOST of the optis do rated power.... barely but i would run them if i had em. The Opti2000d did 1,940 somethin watts @0.5 ohm which is just shy of it's 2000w rating. The Opti6000D however which is rated for 6,000w @1ohm 14.4v didn't even break 5,000w so i'm wondering if the 4000d is really as powerful as they say. I know the 4000d shared the same board as the 6,500w Soundstream so it prob does it's power then, must be the 6000d which is a lie... How in the world did you get a 4000d for $300? You can't even get a used, refurbished broken amp for that price. Seriously though, that amp should be put on the BTLs, not the SSD unless you wanna run 4 of them.

the only way you are going to filter out frequencies and have the sub play a different range than the comps is to use passive crossovers. If there is another way when running in tri-mode... then it must me new to me. Running an EQ before the amp will result in all speakers being effected by the EQ's settings.

i always use 0db tones when setting up amps. Since music rarely ever reaches the levels of actual tones, it's easy to see how your equipment is safe from such scenarios, especially tones themself since that's what i use to setup the amps. I actually used the subsonic filter for my previous install to set the visual Xmech spec of my setup which is rated for ~80mm Peak-2-Peak. Tuned to peak at 34hz, subsonic is set at 26hz and guarantees that it will not move past xmech... or will not damage the sub that is from over-excursion. Ever since i've owned an o-scope, i've never had a single piece of damaged equipment, a very recommended piece of equipment.

at what note? not enough info to compare, bud. I'm suppose to be tuned about 10hz higher than i am but this is not for competition. This is tuned to almost 30hz AND was specifically built to peak at the driver's headrest. To prove a point, i only scored a 143 next to the windshield and the kick. Sure, i could easily break a 150 but this is for daily driving, not comp. This build is focused on a whole other vision.

It's TIME!!!! CHAT FLOODING...

1 more hour... FLOOD THE CHAT!!!

Just metered the setup with my "unknown strict meter" and got a 145.53Db @34hz. I still believe this meter is more strict than the TLAB especially since me, and 3 other people that heard the setup today was so loud that as soon as the bass lines would output full tilt, we all had to get out of the car immediately because the pressure feeling in our ears feels very dangerous... I don't know if it's just the frequency but i also burped it at 49hz and it did the same thing, just not as loud on the meter. I've heard other setups that metered in the mid 140s but never remember any of them causing a feeling that appears to feel like immediate possible hearing damage.

me too... anything below 12 flat in my eyes is a bad install. my measurements consist of using ac dmm and ac ammeter on the outputs of the amps terminals. RMS values only.

MONDAY @ 7PM EST 8-11-08

hehe, now i see why porn results pop up practically no matter what you search for sometimes... The end of the world has somehow got shifted to sex, lol, it doesnt get any better than that.

Ok guys, after doing extensive testing here is results- AQ2200D is about 82% efficient at 4.08ohms non clipped. We didnt get any other efficiency readings at lower levels as we lost a meter and couldnt read the right voltage that we needed. We did on and off testing for 3.5 hrs doing 3-12 sec burps and then played a 13 min bass track and the subs STILL have not gave off any signs of thermal stress! The AQ HDC3s are a beast when it comes to handling power. These 2 12s are powered by 2 AQ2200Ds. The following is a visual statement and nothing set in concrete- It audibly appears that XMAX rating for the 12s looks to be about 28-33mm. After that range, the sub changed it's quality output and sounded like it went clipped but didnt. As we turned it up some more the sound slowly faded away about 50% and the more it moved, the more it showed it's SPL potential. OK, now back to the amps. In testing, we couldnt never get a load lower than 2.21 ohms!!! AAAHH! Sorry guys but the following tests are done from 4-2.21 ohms only. Comparison- Sundown using 2 batteries stock alt. My setup using 3 batteries and stock alt. Sundown - 4 ohm nominal = 520 watts @ 88% efficiency (voltage fell from 14.3v, to 14.1v) Me - 4.08 ohm actual = 503w non clipped (voltage fell from 13.0 to 12.6v) 4.29 ohm actual = 587w clipped (voltage fell from 13.0 to 12.5v) Me - 3.25 ohm actual = 781w non clipped (voltage fell from 12.9 to 12.5v) Sundown - 2 ohm nominal = 960 watts @ 84% efficiency (voltage fell from 14.3v, to 13.7v) Me - 2.57 ohm actual = 966w non clipped (voltage fell from 12.9 to 12.4v) 2.2 ohm actual = 1,114w clipped (voltage fell from 12.7 to 12.3v) So what do we think? The AQ is rated to do power at 14.4v, even though i wasn't that high in voltage, as you can see in the clipped stages, it should definitely exceed it's rating. The amp still is strong is lower voltage levels which is more typical with average charging systems. The AQ amps can run all the way down to 8.5v so there should be no worry about low voltage issues(DO NOT TRY THIS FOR SAFETY SAKE) The amps appear to be just a little less efficient than the sundowns but can pack a damaging punch. I will be getting a Db reading hopefully tomorrow to see what it says.

Here is the impedance curve- The setup is tuned to peak at 34hz AND 49hz(Fs of car). It's tuned low, around 32hz. We will be getting measurements hopefully within the next couple hrs. If we get em today, i'll try and have the info posted here sometime tonight.

I have just finished receiving my impedance curve measurements for my setup design between 20hz-80hz. Here shortly, the graph will be posted here and in a few hrs, me and a buddy are gonna take a trip to an isolated area where we will be measuring output and efficiency and comparing those numbers with the SAZ1500D as i've always wanted to know if the AQ outperforms the Sundown since it's rated to do more power but only at a higher voltage. As of right now, - Impedance curve ranges from 1.76 ohms to 21.6 ohms. DCR is 0.7 ohms So... i will NOT have any measurements below 1.76 ohms and depending on heat buildup, i'm still hoping to pull some numbers out of the AQ below 2.0 ohms as well.

i got em on the batts. I was able to use Knukonceptz Flex wire and was able to get the ground just under 3ft so it's all good now.

Well, i cant get ahold of anybody for tomorrow either so it's lookin bad test-wise... After i eat here shortly, i'm gonna go out there at low volume( in my neighborhood), and find my impedance curve so i know what frequencies to burp at when testing the output of these amps. I'll start a new thread about all this because this has to do with comparing the AQ2200D to the SAZ-1500D.

UPDATE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Everything has just been installed and wired! Everything works!!! Now, i gotta order my 250A alt from Mechman so in the meantime, all play and tests will be done with the car off when ran at full tilt. On a side note, my spoiler is about to fall off now I am now waiting for anybody who is available to help me meter these amps so i can get all of that extensive testing i said i was gonna do done... i just cant get ahold of anybody now...

the rule of thumb is correct, but from experience, it doesnt have to be used as the box size gets bigger and bigger and bigger unless you are also adding more and more and more power. Now, this isn't true 100% of the time but realistically, 8s cant handle as much power as larger speakers can so it throws off the "rule of thumb". You could always go with 1 large slot port.

i think it would. Unless you plan on running 6kw+, i dont think you need that much port area. i cant tell ya whats ideal because i'm workin on gettin my pc back in order after a crash the other day.

i have the front stage high passed at 50hz. They get loud(only if i drive them into partial clipping), and yes, i do need to work on my current install.

UPDATE--- PS - pay no attention to the previous posts, they're irrelevant. Ok, I got the amps back from repair, one was repaired, the other brand new. I have tested each amp myself one at a time and BOTH amps ARE successfully working now. However, there is one thing i'd like to add, it may be nothing because too many variables right now. I tested each amp at 1 ohm using 1 HDC3 in free air because it's out of the box. The repaired amp was making the sub bottom out or sounded like it. That amp was only turned up a little more than the other amp but still yet, it's odd because the HU volume is far from where it usually is.. I know the sub was free-aired so let's pray that it was popping because of that and not because of some "other" amplification problem. I will be redoing most of the wiring tonight and tomorrow so i can run these unstrapped so i should be up and running soon. I did not test them strapped because i no longer want to risk that anymore.

...

I want some people's opinion on this so i get a better understanding... So, i have 2 amps(u guys know the ones, hehe) that i need to hook up soon taking for granted they work. Now, this is how i have it, but was told to change it so they both are wired the same but have a question so here it goes. One amp is grounded through the battery bank. The other amp is grounded to the chassis. Why? Because the other amp's ground length was a LOT shorter going directly to chassis. I have always heard do not use no more than 1 meter length of ground... Why? If i use 2/0 power and ground, how far can that cable be ran using ground before a problem(what problem) arises? They told me to take the other amp and run it to the battery bank as well... Well, if i do that, the ground length will be about 41" long. This is definitely longer than the other amp so are they going to perform differently?

you are always suppose to use an isolator or some form of it to isolate the front from the rear... 99% of the time, the front battery compared to the rear battery has been installed and used in different durations. Other factors include different float voltages, different technologies, etc.... A solenoid is cheap and they help prevent premature failure.