shizzzon

Ah, you were the one who posted all those comments about Stetsom. Thanks for all those. Now, onto the "burp amp" When i first read it, as i stated in the first page, burp amp is just like that Drag Queen which was banned from competition for obvious reasons. Although the Stetsom can't generate tone(s) on it's own nor has a cap or small batt bank like HL's Drag Queen, if it doesnt have the sufficient cooling or durability to be ran for daily, then i can clearly see how a 200A fuse is recommended for a 7kw amp. I would never trust that amp for daily... it just.. no way. After KU40 posted about larger amps pull more power... The next post was a completely turn around of facts when the RF link was posted... implying that larger amps can use this technology... that wasnt a fair comparison. I noticed u mentioned something about a Z1 on stock electrical. That amp is a 5kw amp, there's no way it can hang with a stock electrical if it's pullin 200A minimum. If it's not, then something in the install, whether it be the box, the load on the amp, or electrical wiring, something isn't right to hang with stock electrical for long term use. That comment about the Z1 running off of stock electrical and then... that was pretty much the end of that statement is what threw me off. I know u said not stock anything but seriously, what stock system are we talkin about? Most good stock electricals that we associate with as good are alts ranging between 100-150A and batts.. i dont know how powerful, lets say a D3100 capable. Even that setup wouldnt be strong enough if the Z1 was doin what it is capable of doing. I guess we had 2 different directions we were goin and then.... we got to the intersection and haven't moved since

in a sealed enclosure, as long as there are NO AIR LEAKS, you can leave the subsonic filter off or turned all the way down. LPF, that's your choice, most people set it in between 50-90hz. Bass boost - shouldn't have to ever be used. If you do not have an oscope, then just leave it turned off, otherwise you will probably induce clipping at whatever center frequency it's boosted at. If you have an oscope, set the gains on your amp by checking every other frequency to ensure a perfect, flat output. If, at some notes the output starts to roll off, you can set bass boost in that area to recover the output but you won't see this unless u have an oscope.

OK, i'm gonna change the time i expect to repopulate the chat room. I originally said 7pm EST on Wednesday but that's getting to be impossible for me so let's say 7pm EST on Monday. So, next Monday, you better be in there... I think the last time i was in there, i told lilblacky the long story of how i got crazy drunk, lol, good times.

So, you think because RF uses this technology that DD does too? Because it is patented, could you please show proof that RF has licensed the technology to DD? "Hybrid Technology utilizes multiple power sources to achieve current averaging, extreme dynamic power and unparalleled sound quality." The way the RF amp works is a joke really. IT utilizes multiple power sources... Have you ever seen the inside of that amp? IT's just like a bed of caps. What it's doing is pulling power all the time from anywhere, alt and batt. When it doesnt output large amounts of power, it's still pulling large amounts of current just like a cap to build up it's power. "extreme dynamic power" - We don't view power specs by dynamic power because that's peak power, rarely ever see that. This amp does not run like a normal amp. That's why it doesnt "require" an ungodly bank of batts and alts, but IF you have a large ass battery bank, it could get itself charged up to output some devastating power a lot faster than just a stock electrical. Remember, this is a 15KW amp trying to build up it's power off of a stock electrical system, to achieve that power, it would take a while if you're looking for at least 10kw continuous metered.

Well, when i went to go find the link for ya, it's the Tripp Lite PR60... it's WAY wrong then what they told me on the phone yesterday.. They told me it would do 48A continuous\60A surge... I go to their site, it says 15A... 300w 12VDC. I got lied to AGAIN by a manufacturer... i swear, i'm gonna have to start suing companies for lying to me on the phone all the time.

Then you're not looking in the right places. QSC's Powerlight and PLX series are quite good, so are Crown's upper end lines. Heck, Nick M. told me he gets pretty good results with a QSC RMX series amp, and those are available everywhere. I think you're expecting to find the saturated market prices of 12V audio, which you aren't going to get. You are exactly right. I am expecting to see an equivalent of what is paid in the 12v market but i am not seeing it. Therefore.... i am deciding to run 12v amp off of a 60A 12VDC power supply. It's cheaper with more power.

the bare minimum recommended box sizes won't give you flat responses either. Are you looking for sealed or ported because a ported box for that is 5-10 cubes. IF you go ported, you're gonna need almost all that room so u can tune very low to attempt to get a smooth response.

I'm doin the same thing... but since we are in the same boat, maybe you can help me which would in turn help you too. I have an Original Audioque HD3 15 that i plan on using for HT. I plan on building a box about 7 cubes NET tuned around 17-19hz. My problem is what amp to use... I dont know how much power this thing can live with to get deadly loud but i know it can take about 3kw all day. I ran it in my car at 7.9 cubes net tuned to 29hz off of a 1500w amp and it never reached it's thermal or mechanical limits! And the recommended box is only 4-4.5 cubes so... i need a large o amp but all the amps i look at are OVERRATED and overpriced! That is where i am stuck at and you might be too... I tried to find me like a 12v 70A power supply, i'd just power a car audio amp on it but i cant find one... I found a 60A but i dont know if a 120A fused class d amp can run on a 60A supply for something like this...

u got the right electrical system by the way, dont need to upgrade it any further.

No, that's way too high. Contact powermaster, they will tell u the best setting

so funny, i havent been laughin for a month.... Tomorrow is the 4th expected time they expect them to be done being repaired. See, they may have been done repairing them once... but during a 6-8hr test, they both got damaged after 6hrs straight. That was what happened the last time. So, when they fix them this time, they have to test them again for practically the whole day. IT's simple really, if they fail the test because they got damaged again, i'm going to either expect or inquire about brand new amps because seriously, if they get damaged again.... there is no fixing this amp... they already stated they do not know what is the root cause of the problem for this amp to act the way it has been. Hopefully this week will be the week for - 1 - They have finally been repaired in perfect working order or.. 2 - it's hopeless, replace them.

power draw is power draw. Nothing is 100% efficient so the only thing i can tell ya is- stock alt and hc2400 with a Z1, a 5,000w amplifier. You must have had a high impedance curve in your setup for it not to draw a lot of power. You are looking at pulling about 200-250A on average for music so that battery could have only given about 30 min max before total discharge, i'd say about 10 min before voltage started to gradually drop. So, if you played it longer than that, then you had a high impedance curve, that's easy to see, or you didn't have it wired at 1ohm. Luckily, since you didn't have a humongous power draw, the alt still functions properly.

they didnt say how but i forwarded it to db-R and he said what happens is the cover around a wire had come off and touched something it wasnt suppose to. He said that it probably happened from either a bad build or the first time they worked on it, someone accidentally cut the wire cover slightly or excessive vibrations(which could only have happened in shipping since i've never been able to use these amps yet) could have snapped the wire in half exposing it.

Ok, i'm lookin at the CDI 1000 and DSI 1000... The CDI retails for $1013 and the DSI retails for $883. What the heck is the difference between them? I can get each one of those amps for about $400 off retail so i'm wondering what the difference is between the 2, they both have the same specs as far as i can see.

Well, then maybe you can help me find an amp then, I'm lookin for an amp that can do about 1,000w @4ohms. They have several, and i mean several lines of amps on their site but i dont know what's what.

i am a pc guy so keep in touch with me via pms if i dont answer here in the thread. I can answer you while i'm at work over my phone via pms to try and get your problem solved as quick as i can. I havent had pc lockups since win98 but of course i know you dont have that OS, hehe. Lockups are usually caused by general things but not limited to only these- CPU usage - your cpu is maxed out at 100% which visually looks like things are locked up... You have a quad core so that can't be it with what little you are doing. Memory usage - your memory would be maxed out, your virtual memory would also run out, Windows tries to allocate more but since you ran out of virtual memory, the pc locks up... You shouldnt have this problem either since you have 4Gb of RAM. I think you have a Software or driver issue. So, how do we resolve this? You are probably running Vista, correct? Sadly to say, i have warned people against Vista and I, myself, refuse to use it so i can't tell you EXACTLY where to go to change somethings but i can hep you try and find what i am talking about. I need you to locate a program on your pc called Event Viewer. This keeps tracks of everything including problems. In windows Xp, this is where it's located- Control Panel, Administrative Tools, Event Viewer. You can also try going to Start, Run, and in there type - eventvwr.msc then press enter. That is 2 ways to access it. Once in there, on the left, choose System and look for any red Xs on the right. If you find any, look for them right at around the time your pc locks up. Post those here. Then go to the Applications on the left and look for red Xs on the right around the time your pc locks up and post those problems here. This will give me a basis on how to fix your problem.

yea, honestly though, i am the kind of person that doesn't buy cheap equipment. So, you would then wonder... why did i choose these amps because they are cheap priced? I chose them because ever since launch date earlier this year, there has not been 1 complaint, just solid reviews... So, you know, what do i do? I buy em. I seriously think that companies that decide to make their amps strappable should implement EXTRA protection to prevent an amp from frying. It is VERY possible if one amp shuts off due to any reason while strapped that the other amp can\will immediately get damaged. That's not safe or something "ok". That's ridiculous. RCAs shouldnt be that easy to break either... I got rcas in me home for all kinds of things, they dont break and i've got equipment from 8 yrs ago. next thing i fear is these amps goin out later down the road once i get them back. If that ever happens and it wasn't my fault.... Sundown 100% is my next choice.

Yea, it's your fault! hehe Again, this problem had nothing to do with me. A Toroid had shorted out inside the amp as soon as it was powered on. They've had the amps for 1 month now. They have blown again since they've been in their possession. They do NOT know what the root cause of the problem is that started all of this but are guaranteeing that they will not ship these out until the entire unit it inspected, repaired, inspected and tested for 1 whole day before shipping back out. They blew while in their possession because an rca connector broke off inside the slave amp(the one that always messes up) and caused a signal issue which fried both amps. Talked to them today, they should have been done either last Friday or today but still wasn't. They said the slave amp, simply put, is being an ass and is giving them troubles. IT hasn't damaged itself again but they are having complications over somethin, just dont know what. They expect it to be fully working by late wednesday... This is like the 4th projected repair date.

Most of us here use Powermaster XS Power. Can't go wrong... Their main forum is RIGHT HERE on SSA. They have virtually any size batt you would need. go to www.powermastermotorsports.com and go to mobile audio then XS POWER. Look for some batts. Their batts range from around $100 - $300 per batt depending on capacity. Interchangeable ports- What this is is where you can swap out a port for another port tuning for example - spl\daily. To do this- Simply cut out a basic size hole in the box where the port will go. Make 2 different sized ports that will fit in this hole. You want to make sure the port is sealed whenever you put one on there so you might wanna get some rubber gaskets to put around both ports so when you secure them on , the gaskets should prevent air leaks. You could also double baffle the box and install a thing of speaker foam tape inside the first baffle so it is also leak free when exchanging ports. For a quick removal- Run bolts backwards on the baffle so the thread is sticking out and ThreadLock all the bolts in. That or use Hurricane nuts on the inside of the box then just screw straight in through the Hurricane nuts. If you threadlock, all you gotta do is use washers and nuts on the outside. Hurricane nuts would require to remove the entire bolt and washer. There's some examples of how to do it.

R U referring to the XTI1000 from Crown? I was reading that amp was terrible for home audio. Hissing inside the case and output was no where near rated output and sound quality was poor as well but i dont know how one actually judges sound quality in the low end range only.

what is ca.com www.caraudio.com

I know Soundstorm is NOT a good company to ever trust when it comes to good output\quality so scratch that off your list right now. Anyway, you will need an interchangeable port design for spl\daily. Also, i would do some research on kinetik 16v battery as they are being sued because of their false claims AND for a 14v alternator, charging that batt on the 12v terminal will NEVER charge the other cell in that batt so you will have a faulty 16v battery sometime down the road anyway.

Well, lets start to add up the money here- 2 of those BLs loaded is $740 1 AQ3500D or Refurbed Sundown 3000D is about $700. You will now need electrical- 200-250A alt - $300-$650 Approx 2 D2400s (174aH) - $490. Box build yourself - ~$70 All wiring and fusing, etc - ~$55-$120 So expected cost is between - $2355 - $2770 That is what your budget needs to be.

Yea, they def look like burp amps, but i've been under the impression that people may have used these for daily. It looks like a bunch of caps and multi runs of wire, lol. When i first seen this pic, the First thing that came to mind was, Where is the Drag Queen at? Stetsom following in HL's footsteps, hehe

I said i know what the amp is, that has nothing to do with this thread. I'm trying to find out if the internals of this amp, or the build in general is good quality because i have seen nothing else like it.