shizzzon

Maybe because 115 members have been banned or deleted.

i feel your pain... the heat index the whole week last week was over 100 and this week is suppose to be the same

I have talked to a tech about this and want to know what i should do... I only have 1 sundown 100.4 to work with so there's my power source. I have 2 Image Dynamic CXS65s that are 100wrms components. I also have 2 Image Dynamic CX62s that are 150wrms @2ohm. They are wired to the sundown. I need more midrange... The tweeter level is bout right but i need more midrange, a lot more. CDT said i might wanna try out their new CenterStage kit which consists of 2 2" midrange tweeters mounted on the dash that drastically increases midrange. They have no power rating or ohm load rating so i dont know if i can hook em up to the amp or not... They want $400 for em and i dont know bout all that without specs... They also have a 6.5" component set which is rated to do 160wrms\320w musical peak and am wondering if this set would work perfect on the sundown bridged at 4ohm... I can get this older model for under $250 but their newer model i believe is more than $400. I have no other way of increasing midrange without modifying my doors and i'm leaving that as last resort.

thats what i need... more mids and tweets. I'm seein the prices of some and are shocked but gotta pay to play.

hehe, My system primarily is just alpine dvd player, 2 12s, 3 amps, 3 batts and security.... JUST under $7K, a lot more than what one would expect but i am involved in installing some nice stuff and keeping it secure. I joke around sometimes sayin a thief should start to think about stealing wire and fuse holders as they can prob make a quick buck from that since that stuff can be damaged and reused since i have around $280 of just power\ground wire in the car.

I spent about $650 on SS and other deadening accessories and about $500 from Knu and Stinger... All of the equipment is excellent, perfect choices.

go to www.missinglinkaudio.com for information. Their booster is primarily only for GM or Ford or vehicles that use those type of alternators.

i dont own a sundown 1500d but if they use 2 + and - speaker terminals, then they are internally bridged together basically for the sake of easier wiring capabilities. So... if this is true, if u are trying to hookup just 1 dual 2 ohm sub to your amp, you would run each wire to each terminal... So on your sub, the + and - of one side would wire to the + and - on the amp and the + and - of the other side of the sub would run to other set of + and - to the amp. While you do not absolutely need to use all terminals on the amp, if you do not, the resistance must already be 1 ohm once connected to the amp. Otherwise, you run each coil to the amp which is 2 ohms per side, but internally bridged parallels it down to 1 ohm.

i installed mine in the back with my batteries. They said i could as long as i had a fuse up front near the battery. You have 2 big terminals and 2 small terminals. The cool thing about this is it doesnt matter which one you use for in\out or ignition\ground! So, this is what you do- Run main power line from front battery to BIG terminal. You then run another power ling, same AWG, from other BIG terminal to another fuse block then to all your batteries. This now leaves 2 small terminals left- Choose either one to be ignition turn on. Run your ignition turn on wire to one of the small terminals. This now leaves just one small terminal left. This is going to be your ground. Just run a ground wire from it to ground. The small terminals are small because they do not require very large wire. I used 10 awg for ignition and 12awg for ground. I'm sure that may be overkill but better safe than sorry.

is it an isolator or solenoid? I know solenoids come in 200A but i've only seen 240A isolators go up that high in rating.

i'm not 100%, the 18 uses a totally separate basket, thats all i know. But, like i've told someone else before, they wouldnt have brought out the 18 if it didnt perform like the rest.

amazing, i use autocad too! Yep, call me today. We discussed this earlier that you are 6hrs behind me so call me sometime after 10:00 am today and i'll be here.

how is the alt being measured at outputting ~20v? Hook up DMM to starting battery terminals with vehicle off. Now reconnect the probes after starting the battery and see what u get at the battery's terminals. If you still get close to 20, or anything over 15.0v, stop driving the car until you get the charging system taken care of. IT may be a damaged regulator unless your alt is internally regulated.

hmm, now i think i'm regrettin on fessin up , lol No, but seriously, if i owned a truck with extended cab... i'd fill the SOB up, quick! I've already researched a little bit about settin up extended cab trucks up for stereo system purposes just in case i ever got a truck. And this research has been recent to.. What else am i suppose to do when i'm waitin on amps to work for the past month...

Haha!! I was waiting for someone to catch that, man, i've had that in my sig for a while now. The car can't possibly fit all that and be decent to drive, hehe. I am still waiting for my amps to come back from repair.... I was told they shipped out LAST FRIDAY!... when in fact, they are shipping out tomorrow.. a whole week off?!?! Somebody doesn't have it together over there, that's for sure. either that or someone isn't paying attention. Oh besides, the AQ3500ds won't be out til August, hehe.

u need a DMM for voltage and an Ammeter for current.

from what i was told... knock on wood, it depends on how much alternator power you have. Since i will have 250, i needed 2 of them in parallel. It is the purpose of current transferring from front to rear. Since that should only happen from the alt... well u see.

u can get em for like ~$50 per 200A Solenoid. They also are called Relays too. Do NOT get them confused with the term isolator as that has a nasty voltage drop vs Solenoids.

they isolate the front battery from all the extra batts in the rear. You need this because over time, all the batts being tied together will try to all share the same charge level. If using different battery technologies, the batts will drain each other down til they die if not charged all the time. Now, when the car is started, all batts are tied together so the alt can keep them all charged. The isolators are to prevent premature failure of the front or rear battery bank.

Does anyone know if these horns are worthwhile? I'm gonna tell u what i have and what it's doing so if u got any other recommendations, let me know. I have 2 ID 6.5s in the front and 2 ID 6.5" midbass woofers in the rear. They are all ran off of a sundown 100.4 I had first set the HP for the fronts around 300hz and the rears were bandpassed from 50-400hz. When i had it setup this way, the rears were 100% inaudible. I have redid the x-over since then i have it setup something like this- fronts are HP at 700hz and rears are bandpassed from 50-800hz. This makes the music sound more deep and rich-like but because there is so much range lost up front, there's quite a few songs i listen to that were actually louder with the stock speakers ran off the head unit! Though, the majority of the songs, i'd say about 80% are louder with this setup. Well, recently, when i was running 1,300w of amplified rated power, the bass to mids\high ratio was right at perfect for my tastes. However, i'll be bumping up to 4,500w soon and i know i'm gonna fear a "drowning out" environment. So... i need help! I do NOT want to change or add amps, i'm only gonna stick with the Sundown 100.4 and have some questions of choice i can do unless you know of anything else- 1 - CDT Audio EF-61CF/TW-25 rated to do 175wrms with musical peak power of 320w. I could buy this set and bridge it on the Sundown 100.4. I believe they could handle the 320w from the sundown hopefully... is this enough? 2- Replacing the rear fill with 2 Selenium D250x Horns. I know nothing about using these and cant find any reviews either. The price is scary low but the specs make me wonder- 100wrms, 400hz-9khz, 107Db efficient... $70? When using horns period, the ONLY way i can use horns is if i mount them behind me directly towards my head about 3-4ft away. Is this acceptable or a very bad imaging idea? This is the only things i have to choose from.

i told them that i wanted to wire them in parallel because i had mroe than 200A of current being flown threw there soon. They all told me the same thing- When the wire from front batt comes in, just run it out of the first relay to the input of the second then out of that one to your aux batteries. So i ask again, just in, out, in, out? They said yea. Well, i know the answer now. I thought i was right to begin with, that's why i made this thread before somethin got melted soon, hehe

free shipping is to the lower 48 states. They will come on here or you can email them so they can give you the price specifically.

i'll let someone else comment on bandpass designs. I have little experience with them and can tell you bandpass designs are terrible for sound quality. 2nd, if u have ran sealed before, going ported is a higher efficient box design so it will be louder. In my experience, building a ported box using the least recommended internal box volume yields better sq than the largest box recommended. I do not know why so i may be stating this just for a certain install i did... I just know when i have used large boxes for a single sub, the overall sound is very loose and muddy. This new install i did, i built the box smaller and it sounds incredible. I run 2 cubes per 12 when i should be running 2.5 cubes per 12. I am not lacking on the low end whatsoever... i have people to verify that as well I am tuned to peak at 34hz and can drop below 30hz easy. EDIT - I do know that the larger the box, the higher the group delay which is bad. This may be why my current install sounds better, "tighter" as you would refer to it.

that is referred to as 4th order bandpass 1 amp is better than 2 generally. If one of two goes down, you may have problems. If just the one goes down, nothing else can happen...

hehe, install that in your ride