shizzzon

i cant. Because it's not necessary for competitors. This info is for long term install. Strictly for daily driving, to prolong the life of the batteries. Of course it isn't necessary to prolong the life of the batts for competitors who only use them for a few seconds every other week. Besides, you also gotta look at it like this- people who have oh lets say 30 batteries in their ride. It's too time consuming to ensure EVERY battery is functioning properly... Who cares if one batt dies.. it's not gonna hurt with that many batts. I am almost willing to bet that it's happened before and the owner didnt know it. It's pointless really for competitors. End result, it's for long term reliability.

i'm not referring to an isolator... Solenoid is what i am referring too. RELAY, Solenoid, i do not suggest anyone use an isolator. I'm leaving this alone, v doc has a book to read and decide... This info came from Stinger, Pac Audio and a local auto sound shop that competes in MECA certified comps that take 1st in something every year... The information is valid enough.

no. That's what i was told until i did research and talked to a few companies about it as well. When i seen Stinger's recommendation... i had to call them and ask why? They show a picture of 3 batts, with an isolator between each one of the batts. While it may be suggested to use them if you play with the car off... when the car is on, the EXACT same scenario will happen if your alternator is not strong enough to supply power... it will pull from the front battery. They are to isolate batteries. So isolating each batt individually in the rear will allow them to last longer. If you have batt A, B and C in your car, lets say Batt A and C are draining quicker than batt B. if u had no isolator on them, then part of Batt B would level Batt A and C out because nothing is isolating them. There isn't a perfect current draw from each battery and leave each battery at the exact same level.. it just doesn't happen. I'll give you a real good example! I am a fork lift driver. Every week, we check the water levels in the cells of the batts. All cells work at the same time and only at the same time, BUT some cells are drained while others are still full... How? Because not all batts are made the exact same. But why is their no isolator in between each batt in the fork lift? Well, besides being impractical, hehe, the fork lift charger has a "Leveling" setting on it so it can properly balance the charge of all the cells rather than just charge the cells... which would leave some cells uncharged completely. If they were isolated from each other, that setting on the charger would be pointless. And i have 4 because- i have 3 batts in the rear, so 2 isolators there, then i have 2 more wired in parallel between front and rear batt bank... Why? Because 1 200A isn't a large enough switch for the charging current i will have and would end up burning up the isolator as what happened to Big Jon in my post about isolators. Plus it was recommended by all 3 companies i talked to as well just to see how consistent their knowledge is, it's the same, hehe. You can run batts without an isolator... but they will not be to their full charge potential in the long run. You might, i dont know this for sure, be able to get agm battery chargers with leveling capabilities on them but i dont know as i've never bought them before. IT's a hassle though to charge your batts in your car because your alt cant do it properly.

Enclose batteries? You mean secure them? Contact Kinetik and ask if they have anything for their batts. If they don't, just make something... Battery strap, a case going around them, anything that can be screwed down. And all isolators are virtually the same... 2 switching points, 1 ground, 1 turn on terminal.

no battery is alike.... you can buy 1,000 hc2400s and every single one of them is slightly different. I've been on the phone with 3 different companies about this not too long ago and they all say the same thing.. pretty odd coincidence don't you think? IT doesn't matter if the batts are different or the same, you still need isolators between each batt for daily use because they will be wired in parallel. They will share everything and what the isolator will do is prevent them from sharing when not in use. When the car is on, the stereo equipment steals from all batts so it doesnt matter and the alt charges all batts so it's fine. You do not want the batts sharing their charge levels together when not in use. That's how batts prematurely fail over time. Why did i buy 4 200A isolators? I'm not made of money, it's just for the best of the install.

don't go UP! You already have an electrical system deficiency, so why mention if you were to add more power?

Well, let's see. 3,500w of real power, let's say 350A worth of fusing. 200A alt is only gonna be able to supply about 150A max for the stereo which should be at a minimum of 175A so your alt isn't big enough for a normal setup, i'll get back to that in a minute. i don't know what the aH rating is of the Optima yso i'll just say it's 48aH. This has nothing to do with your stereo system though so let's get back there... You have a 200A alt, so you will need 1 200A Battery solenoid. Now for your batteries in the rear- you want Kinetik, here are your choices- setup 1- (highly suggested) 1 HC2400 1HC1400 setup 2- (highly suggested if you have more than 2 amps) 3 HC1400s You will NEED an isolator in between each battery as well. if you do not, then the batteries in the rear will start to drain them self over time. A single HC2400 is not large enough for 350A worth of fusing. And back to the alt- Because your alt is not large enough, I am recommending that you purchase a remote volt meter so you can monitor the voltage of the batts in the rear. Just one meter on one battery is fine. If the voltage dips below 12.0v at a more consistent level while driving, turn the stereo down and allow the alternator to charge everything back up. Remember, do not let the batts discharge too much! The longer they are discharged without a charge, the longer the alt will work to charge em back up.

ok, my diagnosis is complete... i'm dead. No, it's nothing major. I have already said i was diagnosed with having a Hiatal Hernia. I am now diagnosed with Celiac Disease. It's not contagious, hehe, so don't think i'm a walking disease patient. All that means is i am not "suppose" to eat foods that contain gluten. If i do, it could eventually start damaging the lining in my stomach....which may have already happened once. So, i'll be alive for a while, hehe. Oh, i am not suppose to drink beer anymore or malt-liqour?!?!?!?! Guess i'm gonna have to start snorting alcohol now..

I have a Scion tC and Toyota's warranty goes like this- U can do and install ANYTHING you want to on your vehicle. However, if you ever need to go in for service for something, if something you have done or installed is the cause of the problem you may be having with your car, then it will not be fixed for free. Your warranty is not void, it's just void per service date. You could install a turbocharger on your car if you wanted to. If the ecu malfunctioned, as long as a piggyback or ECM had nothing to do with it, then you are fine...Although if you have an ECM,hehe, your whole electronic system would probably be void permanently...but that's an assumption in that scenario.

i'm gonna be runnin 4,900w and a 300A alt is almost there. I really need a total of about 450A worth of alt power but it's impractical in my car. You would need about 450A worth for 4K + 1K for mids\highs or for 6K + 1K for mids\highs, you would need about 560A worth of alt power. However, since these numbers are just about impossible to get, minimal alt power can be- for 4K setup - 300A alt, for 6K setup - dual alts, 1 200A, 1 250A. For batt power - 4K setup - minimum of 250aH worth or something very close 6K setup - minimum of 350aH worth or something very close. I hope your suspension system can handle such weight. 4K setup for batts will weigh in around 155lbs 6K setup for batts will weigh in around 220lbs

OK, i got done talkin to Stinger about my setup. He said for me to put 300A fuses at each end of the main power line running from front battery to rear battery bank. So, i am taking it that 2 200A solenoids wired in parallel is not a good idea on this line, correct? Would i be better off running a 200A and an 80A in parallel? I am assuming too much relay is like too much fuse which is bad, correct? Too little relay will just damage the solenoid, correct?

i'm doin fine right now,still some uncomfortable digestive feelings once in a while but no pain, which is good. Where's pics of the box? GOD, can't i work first!!!, hehe I'll take pics once i put it together. Gotta model some drilling points in CAD so i can start running allthread here, there... everywhere, over there, some in that area... bla bla bla. I should be done in the next couple days with the box.

i'm done painting the box! Next in line is installation accessories... My friend has convinced me to order all my accessories today and try and get this install done ASAP. When i say accessories... u know, things to get the audio equipment installed and wired up, we are talkin over $1,200 of just installation accessories! Now u see how i was just a little hesitant, hehe. That's more money than a lot of people's full setup on here and i'm dedicating it to just wire, blocks and batts.

sending pm.

ur fuse size doesnt matter because it shouldnt be drawing power, especially with the stereo off.

i'm sure the stereo was louder than the crash though, hehe

yea, fuses arent cheap when this stuff happens. I actually keep a whole pack of ANLs in my car in case somethin happens. Must have read over u havin a cap, so either do what john said above or if u fear about spendin more money on fuses or dont have any, let me see the amp for a couple minutes and i'll let u know somethin.

okie dokie, thanks. Looks like i'll be gettin 4 200A solenoids... Gotta call stinger tomorrow(even though i'm gettin PACs 200A solenoid) and see if 200A solenoids are enough... I'm pretty sure they are but just in case they arent... Got 3 batts in the rear, so 2 solenoids go in between each batt. then the other 2 solenoids get wired in parallel which are between the front and 1st rear batt. Those PAC 200A solenoids are almost half of Stingers 200A. I'm assuming the ground lead off of these solenoids doesn't have to be large correct? I noticed the terminal was small so i'm guessin 8 awg is plenty?

the way you are talkin, sounds like when you place the fuse in or reconnect your ground, as soon as you turn the stereo on the amp doesnt come on because fuse blows, right? If that's true then it's not the fuse size. From what you've tried, it doesnt sound good so far. I have a 12v power supply if u can give me your amp, i'll hook it up, fused of course to see if it comes on then. IF it pops the fuse ran off the PSU, then something internal is damaged. I'm afraid that's the case already but that's the last resort i can think of. I'm on vacation for 2 weeks so i am available 24\7 til the end of the month.

Natas - B*tches I like to F*ck. I've showed a few friends how crazy this song is. Throw this song into Audacity and look where it peeks at!!!! Better get your high quality amps out with your sealed enclosures because this song peaks in between 8-11 hz constantly. I have played this song in a box tuned to 29hz and WHOA!, i thought it was loud then, i'd love to hear.. or feel it's real peaks.

well i can help with that too! The IVA-W205 can be had for under $700 and i'm sure you can get an external EQ for around $300, definitely cheaper as well. I bought my w205 for around $640

then just get a double din with an external EQ... why not?

if u want just a single din, fill it up with processors if u want to use them or maybe even a smaller sized screen under or over the single din stereo.

couldnt ask for a better explanation, thanks. So, i was looking and you're right, electrical versions are discontinued and VERY hard to find. So, i'm forced to look into a Relay-type Solenoid. Well, since they come on when the car is on, then they will act like they are not even there... If i were to only play music with the car on, would i not need one? At the least, if that's true, Stinger's SRVG looks like a nice little device. It's only $37 and says it will shut off all aux battery power to ensure starter battery is charged. I don't know how it works since all the wires coming out of it are very small. It doesn't look like you feet the main power line through it at all which makes me wonder how it works.

I am tryin to figure out if i should install an isolator in my setup and have been reading a LOT of info about this and have came across a LOT of things that i have never read about before from others. I've read things like- Not using an isolator can hurt the starter by it receiving a superior CA load and may kill it quicker. Showing off with car off will kill starting battery. Now, i've been on Stinger's site and i gotta call them about some things because they got some products and descriptions that are just begging for answers! Such as their SRVG which shuts off power altogether in the rear to prevent front battery from dying.... really? How? And also, their 200A relay solenoid... This is ridiculous, i have never seen this before. Is this really necessary? Stinger recommends running a solenoid in between EVERY aux battery in the rear! Reason - batteries may not have the exact same charge and batteries are never perfectly identical... Um... ok but when the car is on, the solenoid can do nothing but let power be sent to all batteries at the same time for charging... When the car is off, it will allow an independent discharge for each battery but... the alt will charge them back up when car is on so do not understand that recommendation at all.