shizzzon

i see you watching this topic...... Tell us what it was or you're banned! hehe

when the sound goes crazy, does any one of those amps go into protect? Get back there and see if the protect light is flickering.

if u take it to auto zone, do NOT let them disconnect your power wire to your batt from alt while car is running. OH and one more thing, have you ever checked the voltage your alt puts out when above idle? Kinetik's do NOT like anything out of the range of 14.0-14.4v

Hey, glad you posted here M5, I would have seriously went with what you decided before with the 3 10 idea but when i went to actually go to placing an order for them, it was between 3 10" icons and 3 RE SXs and both had an issue with my app. The Icons were to be wired right at 1ohm DCR which is odd but was afraid i wouldnt get the power i wanted. The RE SXs were to be wired at 1.2ohm DCR and that setup would have been ran off of a 2ohm stable amp which i was too leary about trying with brute power. Yea, the icons would have actually been wired to a pair of amps that wasnt even gonna exceed 3kw so i decided to just go with this setup instead.

You are not suppose to, I'm warning him NOT TO!!!!! The remote wire is just as active as the power wire because it actually is a power wire, just used for a different purpose. So do NOT ground the remote wire... be very careful.

Good Luck to more than just me, i gotta get some people from Louisville such as phi (i am politely asking, ) to help me lift the equipment in the vehicle when the box is done being painted in fluorescent paint.... Did i just spill another surprise?!?! We'll see when that time comes.

I'll Lube you in a minute! I mean...

Scion tC. Forward firing literally 1 inch from rear seat, passenger side firing for increased spl (obtained from Db meter)

dont do it at full tilt though. Also, you gotta be careful not to touch ground. a LOT easier way to do it is to take some spare wire like a few inches long and run it into the remote line. Then splice this wire with your actual remote wire and leave it bare, just dont ground it out. Start to play somethin then unsplice the wire slowly, don't wanna jerk it and cause it to ground out on somethin.

Ok here are pics, yea finally! First off, the rear speaker replacements- I bought these used but fresh! Barely ever used and one helluva steal! Image Dynamics CX62s SVC 2ohm 150wrms These babies are going to be powered by.... Sundown 100.4 But, what is gonna make all the bass? Well, i know what is gonna be powering them- 2 Audioque AQ2200Ds Ok ok, but what is that power being sent to? 2 Audioque HDC312-DVC2ohm Copper Coils. Miscellaneous pics - Specs - The pics of the speakers being weighed is slightly off. The scale was approx 0.5-1.9 lbs off but i have the numbers here- ID CX62s - 5.0 lbs per driver AQ HDC312 - 46 lbs per driver AQ2200D - 16 lbs per amp Sundown 100.4 - 12 lbs I'll go ahead and say that the front comps are IDs as well, just haven't got them in yet.

pics are about to be taken!!! This will show the majority of the install. I am still missing my front components\batts and a LOT more wiring but everything else is about to be uploaded...

Update.... Still not done yet. Apparently, we have another problem. Whenever i eat foods that upset the hernia, it only hurts where the hernia is... makes sense. Well, if i eat foods that contain a lot of fiber such as frosted wheats or actual Benefiber, the entire abdominal area becomes severally cramped for about 1-2 full minutes and i can't even stand during this period due to the pain. The doctor fears that i may have Coeliac disease so they did a blood test and will let me know in 1-2 weeks the results. This disease is where i am allergic to gluton. Somethin i am to try while i am waiting is to eat Wheat, Barley and Rye bread. If these breads hurt as much as other fiber-like foods do, that's bad... IF they don't it's good! IF it's bad, they are going to have to do a colonoscopy on me next. I always like to joke around so whenever i hear the word colonoscopy, i always call it a sodomoscopy, hehe

To those of you who offered to help, i will actually need your guys help! I am not suppose to life anything too heavy so putting the box in myself is out of the question. The box will weigh around 80lbs and the subs have been weighed in at a total of 91.5 lbs But i gotta put those in the box AFTER the box is in there... better on your back. OH.... a lot of stuff came in today... so much stuff that they had to send 2 UPS trucks out here but am waiting on a call so i can go pick up the other shipment of equipment. Pics may be up in this log tonight!!!!!

lead acid has higher resistance so takes longer to charge and longer to discharge i believe. Is not as safe as AGM batteries that's for sure. HIGHLY do not recommend installing them in any part of cabin or cargo area. IF somethin bad happens... terrible mess and hopefully no damage.

hook em both up if it's easier to get it done now, just don't run em full tilt unless your doin it like burps. I can't argue about durability because i have yet to own either brands personally but the Kinetik's offer HIGHER aH and reserve times then Powermaster does. You are going by the CA rating which should only be looked at for burping, not for music if that's your goal.

i have my ISP's email ALL forward to my gmail account. I then have ALL of my gmail email send a copy of itself to my cell phone. That way i have an original copy on a server and on my phone. This has nothing to do with you necessity wise but i'm your pc guy if u ever need help with any decisions or... really anything.

i'd run somethin larger than 1/0 wire from batt up front to amp in the rear if u have no batt in the rear. To the original poster- 2 3kw amps wont do good off of an alt that only has enough juice to run one of those amps minus the Entire car! batts in the rear are like a voltage stabilizer. The less reserve time you have, the quicker your voltage will deplete. 300A alt can't run all that power alone so some will come out of the batts. That's why you should have the recommended batt power in the rear. Now, if your alt could run the ENTIRE stereo AND car too, then all you would really need minimally is a large ass wire runnin back there with a good batt up front. Never hurts to had a little sumthin sumthin in the rear for support. Also when using Kinetik's calculator thing for seein how many of what batts you need, don't count the batt up front to help you with your demand in the back. It "might" tag along but i wouldnt recommend it. If you have 6,000w of power back there, you need one of the following in the rear- 3 HC2000s 4 HC1400s 2 HC2400s 1 HC1400 2 HC2400s 2 HC800s Anything less is less reserve time which equals quicker voltage drops. I can't tell you how quick because that depends on what is being played\how it's recorded\duration, bla bla bla..

have your SMTP server forward your email to gmail so you won't have just that "one source" where all email is kept at in case you have to switch out pcs again. Also, try a copy of Acronis for backup purposes just in case you can be prone to catastrophes if a particular pc lost it's data.

sound better? If you do not have enough amp power to get these subs to their max potential, then building a larger box will make the install more efficient. IF you already have 2Kw available, i wouldnt do more than 2.5 NET it will be louder to the rear but a LOT more rattle outside. it will be like a sealed box if port is on baffle. Try subs forward port to the side. I would only recommend "trying" this if you could keep your back seats down at all times. Otherwise, i know not the outcome.

Got the results in.... I have a Hiatal Hernia. Meaning... i can no longer drink, smoke, eat fried or spicy foods and cannot drink any caffeinated drinks... Well... i might as well just die now, huh? Tomorrow i get inspected to determine if i need to be screened for cancer. So, almost done with this. Doctor said in about 20yrs he believes is when they will perform surgery to remove it... Why so long? Well, he's goin on vacation. Nah, hehe, he says my hiatal hernia is small and if i eat and drink right, it should remain the way it is without problems. Basically what it is is the stomach has pushed itself up into the lower part of my esophagus which can cause acid reflux symptoms and if my stomach expands too large from eating\drinking the wrong things or eating too much at one time can enlarge the hernia and cause breathing problems.

you are absolutely right. But i figure from the same company, there rating system is the same as the rest of their speakers. I'm gonna go with em anyway. I've always heard good things about ID. I am a very optimistic person and not picky about small things. It's common sense that these will be louder and clearer than the stock speakers so i really have nothing to lose. If the bass still drowns em out(doubt it), i'll just turn the bass down. Better to have too much than not enough. OH and M5, thanks for the info

well, i do know about this. Like stated in that link- You have a driver 4 ohm rated at lets say 82db and an 8 ohm driver rated at 8bdb. Theres a great chance that the 8ohm driver will be louder because halving impedance doesn't half output power all the time. and............ Wait a minute! I just went back over the specs of my CX62s- 91Db efficiency. IDs other set the CTX65CS- 93Db efficient So i have 150w @ 2ohm 91db 100w @4 ohm 93Db Sounds like a winner right? So i can go all around with ID sets. The CTX65CS has just dropped to well under $200. I think i know what i want know.

So u think runnin a little less power up front is better

I recently ordered I'd CX62s to run off of my sundown 100.4. I want to find some 2 ohm comps that can handle around 150wrms and can be had for around or less than 200. I got my IDs for under 150 so hopefully it's possible.

Damn! We got everybody viewin this thread, hehe. I bet if you were installin an 18" BTL, we would be in competition with Meade's thread, lol. None of that stuff is expensive. Depending on size of bottles you choose, titebond, LN and silicone will be around $12-20