shizzzon

that's basically it? I just got done readin somethin and found a good supplier They sell 1\4" thick silver plated but full copper source in practically any length. I'm "assuming" 1\4" thick is good for 500A, wouldnt see why it wouldnt be. I'm still seeing if i can find a way to run both power and ground bars but i know i can do ground.

I think i wanna run a buss bar only across the ground terminals of 3 batts in the rear of my vehicle. I can't safely run one for both power and ground if you are wondering. Anyway, the reason why i would want to run one for ground is so i can just run all 3 of my amps ground out to the batt's ground buss bar. This way i can run multi runs of ground wires off of the buss bar, let's say 2 runs of 1/0 off the left and 2 runs of 1/0 off the right. Where exactly do i go to get one and how do i know if it's thick enough... if it'll fit on my batts, etc... they are for kinetiks so i know i can take the posts out of the batt to bolt it back down. I found a site that was selling a 2ft long buss bar for $56... really need about 3.5ft but 3ft will do. So, what do i do?

i'm fully aware of that, i've been around the comp scene for a while. These subs can't take 5kw a piece for daily.

talkn to someone else right now. He says he has 2 of the AQs in only 3.6 running off of 10Kwrms worth of amps but gain is turned way down. He said he has them tuned to 33hz and drop nicely so i might just have to tune a lil lower to prevent losing low end.

I own 2 of their 15s, they can take 3kwrms briefly, 2kw all day long. Their suspension system is different than other drivers. 38-40hz is the lowest recommended tuning. Anything lower, and you start to lose out of the highs. Their statements just like my experience with their 15s, tuning like that, in the right box, can drop as low as the high 20s and reach upwards to the 70s before rolloff. The lower you tune, the longer the port, but the smaller port area can be. Turbulence increases with higher tuning... as well as smaller port area but if port area is already large enough, tuning lower can use smaller port area. I wish not to tune lower unless i went with 10s. If i went with 10s, i's prob tune between 33-35hz. If u think i should go with 10s, i've been thinkin about the RE SXs. Why? because i was told a while back that the T/S parameters of the BLs are shown AFTER break in. Where the resonance frequency is of the 10" BL, that's right around where i like it loud at and i'm pretty sure there will be a slight drop in output in that area.. especially since my Fs of my car is in that area as well... RE SXs are in the low 30s.

i know what u mean 100% but i am getting mixed answers and it's giving me a headache! I've been trying to decide this myself for almost a month and gave up because my head was hurting too much. I, personally believe 3 10s would have more potential. 3 10s being thought of is 3 Fi BLs or 3 RE SXs. 2 12s being though of is 2 Audioque 12HDC3s. Here is the dilemma- There website states they can work in 2.5cubes gross per driver... Well, i have exactly 5 cubes gross. I talk on the phone with DJ, the owner, he tells me they need to be in 4.6 cubes after sub displacement but then i have to add room for port.... Confusing because that's not what it says online. He then told me with the power i plan on running, it's an iffy decision if it will hit the lows well or not... That's the main problem. There was one guy who has his in 4 cubes NET, mine will be in 3.75 NET if i went with them. They suggest tuning to 40hz and will drop down to 30hz fine. He says his is tuned to 40 and starts to roll off around 33hz. I just don't wanna make a mistake. If you think it's a win win either route then it doesnt matter what i choose but if u were in my shoes, what sounds better to the mind?

For general purposes- is 3 10s in their largest recommended ported box going to be "potentially" louder than 2 12s in their smallest recommended ported box? Power comparison- 10s would receive maximum recommended rms, 12s would receive double recommended but small box would control movement better. I've kinda asked this question many different ways but i am now in a hurry and need to know from u guys who have had experience with just enough volume and just right volume and so on... I am leaning towards the 3 10s just because i fear a just enough volume for 12s would lack low bass even if power is doubled.... It's my opinion so i am looking for facts before i place the wrong order.

pointless power draw! After so high, i think it might be around 80 or 90, the subs will start to draw so much power, in excess of 200A that it would be better off to let the midbass do it for less than 20A and still be almost just as loud if not the same. Also, i do not know when i will roll off the rear fill either... Won't know til i'm messin with it.

oh no, i dont want 3way, no room. Just narrow midbass in the rear and my main and ONLY main stage up front high passed from whatever on up. I won't know frequency until i get em in. I was just reading reviews on Mach5Audio's 6.5" midbass and for the price, Jesus! that's a helluva deal. I am also attempting to pick up some used Image Dynamics 6.5" mids as well. If the deal falls through, i guess i'll get the Mach5s.

yep, i have 2 12s in the far back, 2 6.5" midbass drivers in rear fill, then front stage 6.5s I won't know exactly the x-over points exactly until i set things up but the front stage probably isn't going to be going under 150hz. The rear stage will probably start off in the 60hz area and work it's way up until i decide to roll it off.

u can strap the sundowns but only advisable at 2ohms.

i know but i was talking about the "Smaller solo x's" that i mentioned above saying that in their manual, kicker recommends running less than rms rating to them in ported enclosure.

i know it can take 3kw daily unclipped. 4kw brief periods, again unclipped. 2kw with slight clipping allowed... SLIGHT clipping.

you know Meade runs 4kw amps to each of his. But you also must know that he doesnt go around jammin it at that level either all the time. The BTLs only have a 3" coil. That right there is a thermal limit that you just cannot surpass. How long is it going to take before that sub starts to overheat? I don't know but i, again, do not recommend doing that. 3kw FULLY LOADED on the old BTLS were the MAX recommended by experienced users who have owned the BTL before. The new BTLs are comin soon. Who knows if they can handle more power thermally... only time will tell.

i wouldnt advise running that much power to one of those for daily in terms of, that's the normal level you plan on playing them at. I don't think they can handle that much power all the time.

Scottie Johnson's van hitting so loud that when i was holding the video camera from about 40ft away it buckled my knees for just those 2 seconds he let it rip! 3 yrs later when a car got metered at doing just over 172db and being SO SEALED TIGHT, i could talk louder than the vibration that emitted from it!

nope, because there is a sealed box enclosure that can handle the full 2500wrms according to manual. the 10s and 12s are 2500w and the 18 is 5000w. If the 18 is like the other ones, it is only gonna handle 3-4kw daily. Really need to know your voice coil option. for a money saver- 1 ohm can get ya 4kw at $700 2 ohm can get ya 4.5kw at $780 1 ohm can get ya 3.1kw refurb'd for $700 If you wanna go crazy, if you got dual 2s, you can get 6KW for $1120 More crazy? Dual 2s again can get ya 9KW for $1,560 Little less crazy? Dual 1s can get ya 7.8KW for $1,400 Let us know ur VC configuration.

oh i know what u r wanting to do. You have a height limit and because this forum uses HTML when making posts, you cannot space more than once unless you made a table but that has to do with...... well nvm, back on topic. Port in the middle..hmm well do this, if u can- Can you turn the box upright so all the subs and port are on one side of the truck? Test it like that behind passenger and driver seat and see what's louder. whichever side is louder is what side you need the port on. You can also try just putting it in the middle as well. So, if it's louder behind the passenger side, then the port goes there and subs behind driver side.

keeping the port in the middle will allow the subs to move more in sync but will not be the loudest. I've never setup a system inside of a truck so with what i'm about to say, you may be able to fill in the blanks. On a ported box, you have the port and sub(s). Driver's seat is on the left obviously. When the port is on the passenger side, the driver side will be louder and vice versa. So, i am "assuming" that if you had the port behind passenger seat and all 4 subs behind you, it would be ungodly but don't hold me to that because i've never done a truck setup before. If you have ever had a ported box in your truck before or still do, play around with it to see if this is true for your truck as well.

Ok, before i purchase these, let me know if you think it's gonna be loud enough and reasonably par sound quality. The sets i've chosen are TOTALLY different so you might go wtf for a sec as i even did when i made these choices, hehe. Front stage- 6.5" components Rear stage- 6.5" midbass drivers Chosen- Front - Alpine Type X Reference Rear- Audiobahn Midbass Driver Why? I am running 4KW of power, normally about 2-2.5 for longterm daily. I just need something louder that doesn't sound like garbage basically, nothing spectacular that just makes your heart stop quality, nothing like that. I have a Sundown 100.4 already. I was looking at the reference and Pro line of these Type Xs and think i'll be fine with just the Ref line. I chose Audiobahn drivers because these little suckers have always been a hot talk about how good they are in the midbass range. But... those were in enclosures. I have expanding foam, i am going to attempt to put them in an enclosure surrounded by that stuff so hopefully that will work. Cost - $350 for all 4 speakers. Is this the best choice money-wise?

how much power can it handle in the box you are gonna put it in? I remember reading their manuals and them stating that for the smaller solo xs, they may be rated for 2500wrms but their recommended ported enclosures only recommended 1,500w... That's why i'm asking that question. Need to know what type of 18 u purchased too, D1 or D2?

Ok, it's getting REAL CLOSE right now- Another forum is suggesting i go with 2 AQ HDC312s because they and i both know they can handle 2K per driver easy. (I've ran and still own 2 HD315s so i know how they sound, which is fine to me.) The ICONs are a no go now since i have too much power and wouldnt get as much potential as i could with a driver that feeds on power. The only thing left that i know of is 3 RE SX 10s or 2 AQ HDC312s. And to be honest, i almost purchased the AQs last night and forgot to make sure there was nothing else that perked my interest. Unless something drastic changes my mind soon, the AQs are gonna be it. 2 of the AQ HDC312s have more surface area than any 3 10s i have looked at. 2 of these 12s actually have about as much surface area as the Alpine Type X's i believe. Well anyway, my build log will be started in about a week or so on this forum so stay tuned. Someone stole my video camera bout 4 months ago so the only thing i have vid cam wise is a picture camera. Never used vid cap feature on it so it probably sucks. I need to buy another vid cam soon though.

caps are good for use in the following scenarios- using bass amps that use unregulated power supplies. You have enough alt power to run your entire audio system. If you fit BOTH of those categories, then by all means get some. You can actually have regulated amps too as long as you have enough alt power behind it. Caps discharge very quickly so what is this good for? This is good for those quick hard hittin bass notes, to get more power to your amps so they discharge more power to your sub(s). Caps aren't like batts so constant bass lines will cause a cap to drain in no time. It is then up to the alt to charge it back up and run the audio system. Strong enough alt setup can do this but once the cap is drained, the bass line will lose power for a little bit until the cap is recharged. This is why it's suggested to use LARGE cap banks nowadays when running large alt setups. Such as 100-200F minimum. For unregulated amps, when your voltage dips, the caps can help keep that voltage up for a quick spurt but, again, only if your alt setup is powerful enough to run the whole audio system by itself. Batts are a LOT slower at discharging. think of them as voltage regulators and think of caps as split second last resort power. Batts will help keep the voltage up higher because they have a helluva longer reserve time than a cap does by FARRRRRR. It is always suggested that you upgrade and\or add alt(s) and\or batts when installing an audio system that needs an electrical system upgrade but batts definitely over caps. I would suggest calling Iraggi though before buying batts. His average alt costs less than $320 shipped and that should give you around 200a worth of power so see if he can make one for ur ride. I know he's the only one who can make one for my ride that i have found out of all the big names out there.

I have the Viper 5900 with several extra sensors plus Grade 3 bulletproof glass on my vehicle, extra siren with battery backup on the outside, 3 internal Peizo sirens and 2 additional 130db outside sirens INSIDE the vehicle. Total cost- $1,600

Get Kinetik Audio batteries. This was taken from their site- I heard that adding more batteries to my car will lower the voltage and is harder on my alternator, is this true? Adding multiple Kinetik Power Cells to a vehicle will not add extra load on your alternator or lower you voltage in your car like adding