shizzzon

hehe, that's funny that you say that because DD and AQ are all about saying tiny boxes = tiny output, the larger the box you put our sub in, the larger your output will be.

People keep thinkin i'm going to compete.... i understand why but this is my daily driver. I actually have 2 AQ HD3 15s from a previous install... i'd LOVE to use them in this car but i can only freakin fit one in the back, even with the spare out and everything. After the batteries and amps, the MOST i can get for 2 15s is like 5.5 cubes... that aint enough. Now.... i "could" extend the front of the box over the back seat by permanently folding the backseat down but i don't wanna do that.....do i? My plan is to run 8 Audioque SD2.0 8s off of 2 AQ2200ds. That's how it stands for right now. I got room for that. I've been comparing a LOT of setups. I'm tryin to keep the sub quantity to not surpass 100lbs due to weight issues in the car. 8 of these i think weighs 104 lbs. I've compared the following setups- 4 DC Lvl 3 10s 3 DC Lvl 4 12s 1 AQ HD3 15 8 AA Assassin 8s 3 Fi BL 12s 2 AQ HDC3 12s Out of all those, i strongly believe 8 of these 8s are going to be the loudest of them all. DJ told i can tune as high as 37hz and still drop right under 30hz without problems with these 8s due to their suspension system. Tuning that high saves space inside the box which allows be to run up to 8 of these. The only thing that comes close to surface area is 3 12s but Fi's are a lot heavier and DCs are more expensive than 8 of these 8s are.

well, i got to foolin around and comparin one wall to the other. The wall that's fine has the gas cap there which probably acts like a brace. The other side, if i put my hand right where the gas cap would be if on that side, press hard in that spot, the WHOLE side of the car stops resonating when it's being beaten so i'm gonna try a couple things just in that area. Spectrum is a good idea but due to the amount pressure needed, might even need sludge there. Hopefully sludge can stick to walls without falling.

So, i've been sound deadening for weeks... honestly. The weather changes everyday. Well anyways, i'm pretty close to being done with my Scion tC. For kicks, i show people just how much this stuff works. I have been applying 3 layers of Damplifier everywhere. When i applied it to the walls in the back seat area, i would go outside of the car and bang on the car, super stiff! No resonation or hollow sounds at all! I am now working on the rear hatch walls. I had got done doing the driver's side and banged on it from the outside and stiff as can be. I just got done with the passenger side wall today and when i went outside to bang on it... it sounds like i havent even put any on it! So i stuck my hand WAY up in there and found a section, probably 8" tall by 16" long that was bare. I took 3 more sheets cut to that size and filled that bare spot up. I then retested the bang method and same result, very hollowish and resonating like crazy from the outside. The problem here is my port is going to be firing directly on this wall for 4kw of power! Anyone ever experience this before? I pushed my body weight against the car as much as i could then started banging on it again and it seemed to help alot but man!, how many more layers does this wall need? 3 layers and nothing so far.

the Db results that you got posted here, did you test these subs in the order that you posted them? Because if you did, it appears that the voltage was dropping more and more which would indicate the batteries not being fully charged for the next test.

i just got done reading what it does... it doesnt put out more power... it allows you to drive the amp harder and longer and prevents it from clipping so early. It says it's mainly for comp use, Deathmatches probably. I don't have the link on how to do it because it doesnt load for me anymore, i was just reading the result of the mod.

i've never done that, never trusted a setup like that. If i ever show off when i'm parked, it's either car is on or if off, not turned up that loud at all. OK, you've helped out a whole whole lot, thanks.

well, let me ask this- Do you think with these batts and 300a alt that i'd be fine running 4kw bass and a sundown 100.4? I'm assuming that the bass part will be too much to handle for consistent durations anyways since i've never done anything this loud before. If you guys don't think this is enough electrical, i'll back it down to 3kw of bass, but i think 4kw is doable as long as i don't prolong it.

ok found another calculator. It doesn't take into account the maximum amperage a wire can handle before it catches fire but this is what this other one says- if 490A were to pass through single 3/0 wire at 18ft, voltage drop would be - 0.662 volts. measured resistance 0.0013 ohms. But, when fusing from battery to battery, i pretty much just fuse by wire capability or alt rating? So, i'd use 300a or smaller in between batt up front and batt bank in the rear, correct? Then from the batt bank in the rear to amps, each amp is fused externally with regular 1/0 wire. Since i can keep wire short there, voltage drop is very minimal. One other thing also- When grounding all 5 of these batts in the back, i take it it's wise to not only have all batts in parallel but also try and ground them all individually as well for best ground possible?

No, i do not plan on it but this is what i do know- I do not know exactly what the float voltage is of kinetik batteries but whatever it is, the voltage right before the battery better be quite higher than the batts voltage itself. IF it isn't, the alt will never charge the batteries. Now, if the voltage is significantly higher than the float voltage, then all current draw will be supplied via alternator. Quick spurts of current would come from the batts because voltage regulator wouldnt react quick enough for that. I used that calculator from the website you posted. However, i'm trying to find a different calculator to see if i can get better results, dont like theirs, hehe.

Thank you for that detailed response. The reason I keep mentioning multi cable runs is because the more cable u have, the high my voltage will be. Like on a wire calculator- Using a single 3/0 wire compared to 3 2/0 wires is almost a full volt difference. So, if I drop 1.6v using 3/0 but only drop 0.5v using 3 2/0, shouldn't I do multi runs? I know calculators don't take into account that the wire will eventually reach another battery bank which keeps voltage up... But this is mainly so the alt's voltage stays high enough so it doesn't dip into the batts. Isn't that how it's suppose to be?

There is a rule of thumb in terms of if you were competing. Never make the port larger than the total surface area of all subs combined. In your case, don't make it any larger than 175sqin. I do know port area affects output potential. Too small can limit output but too much can also do the same thing i'm sure. Just like installing a super large exhaust pipe on a stock car. You've eliminated a lot of back pressure that it once used. There is no for sure method of knowing too much is too much without testing but for your scenario, there is no way that would be too large.

ok, rockford fosgate carries 500A fuses. So...what should i do. And i got the actual wire specs- 1 wire is stinger's 3/0 wire. The other 2 wires are knukonceptz kolossus wire 1/0. That's the problem with attempting to fuse each line... the stinger line will pull more current.

on my head unit(alpine) turning on HP on HU only high passes speakers ran off of HU's internal amp. So... if yours does that too, then the full range setting on the amp that is powering those speakers is running all frequencies to it.

That's quite a bit of port area you have for what power you're running. Works good, i bet, with higher notes that you probably used in comp.

i have to use the one up front to finish the requirements of batts needed to run this setup. I'm only gonna have 5 hc600s in the rear. I have an hc1800 up front, which u see is needed for my setup. Oh and with a 300A alt too. And there are 12v fuse terminators in this install as well. I "could" use them as my actual in line fuse holders for my multi runs of cable. This would also prevent my batt up front from dropping below 12v while driving to allow me to start the car again. Multi runs of cable is used to have the highest voltage possible by the time it reaches the batt bank in rear.

i had thought about that, but am unsure on the "real world" scenario of doing that. One of the 3/0 wires is different than the other 2 so it will have the capability of pulling more\less than the others. Also, i was unaware if splitting wires like that would actually divide the current up exactly like you say it would. What prevents one of those wires from "trying" to pull the full 500 at a time? that's what i do not understand. Also, if one of those 3 fuses pop, the other 2 should pop relatively quick. IS it possible that before the last fuse pops that the wire could burn\melt or catch fire before fuse pops?

Ok, i've never ran multiple and have come to a barricade here so fill me in. 1 battery up front, 5 batteries in the rear. 400A for bass, 90A for mids\highs. Total Amperage fuses needed- 490A ~ 500A. Ok, first off- I'll have 3-4 runs of 3/0 wire going from front battery to rear battery bank. Right now, i just have 1 3/0 wire ran which is fused with ANL fuse and no fuse at other end because everything is dismantled right now. With 3 runs, i was going to attempt to use a bat terminal that had 3 1/0 connectors on it. I run the alternator to one of those leaving 2 left. The factory electrical wiring goes into the other slot leaving one left. I'm assuming i'll use a distro block with reducers to run 3/0 to 1/0 reducer into terminal, the other end runs into a distro block... In between the terminal and distro block is where i put a fuse holder in.... I CANNOT FIND 500A FUSES! from car audio industry. I have found one... only one and it's ANL actually but main purpose is for gas powered boats with large battery banks. It's on ebay so who knows how much longer it'll be available especially if i ever needed another one. There's one problem... 2nd- Once all these runs reach the rear battery bank, is it ok if i rerun all 3 wires into 1 3/0 wire using distro block, fuse it with unknown fuse then let it go to battery bank? Purpose is to get lowest voltage drop possible but with properly fusing at every point. Also, when i ground all 5 batts in the rear, should i ground each battery to ground rather than just have 1 master ground off the bank?

Jesus!

dd and aq's 8 are about the same. there power ratings are slightly different but that's for abuse-sake. AQ recommends running 500w clean power instead of 300. DD's 8 can handle a little bit more for burping but not noticeable to the ear. you can also run the AQ in 0.7 cubes NET compared to DD's 1 cu ft. DJ from AQ said that he has a competitor doin over 150.0 with only 4 8s! I can care less about the details because i'm not goin to comp but that's insane.

After removing all non-wood braces and screws from the box, i use a sledge hammer to break it down.

Thanks man, just wanted to be sure. I like the look of these plus they arent that expensive either. I'll use a local store for a backup purpose.

I am planning on buying HC1800 and 5 HC600s soon. I want to use Knukonceptz Konfused battery terminals on these batteries but it appears that Kinetik's battery posts are for ring terminals only. So... while i was surfing, i found this- http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_8425_K...P+-KHC-TP-.html So, if i buy those, all i have to do is unscrew the ones off of the batts, put these on and that's it, right?

i seriously doubt the steering wheel or glass will break with 4 8s. I hope u get those 8s on a meter because i was gonna go with those exact 8s but decided to go with who i've always went with in the past.

i take it this is more SQ oriented right? Not from experience, but Ascendant audio has an 8", jl audio 8. If you are goin for just loud, i am about to do an install in my ride with 8 Audioque 8s off of 4,500w. I've talked to DJ about it more than once and says they can handle clean up to 500w all day with burps up to 900w.