shizzzon

this is how i have always done it. When playing music, take the amps rated power and divide by half and that is what you should be focusing on. So, for example, let's say you wired our subs down to 1 ohm. output at 1 ohm is 2500w \ 2 = 1250. Let's say 1500w for efficiency sake. 1500w divided by 13v = 115 A 115A draw off that alt should be fine. You will still have voltage dips due to length of wire, spontaneous power draw from quick bass notes but other than that no other problem. One thing though is if you play constant bass, like test tones and the draw is greater than that, the power will be coming from the batt. If you were to constantly do long drawn out test tones or any other type of playback which would result in constant draw that is greater, the alt will eventually fail. This could take some time though. Somethin that can help is a battery by your amp, maybe more than one.

a box's internal dimensions - 10.5" high 35.5" wide 20" deep If i put a port in it width-wise, slot port along the wall, 10.5" high x 4" wide, and run it across and leave a 4" gap from the wall resulting in port length being 31.5" long + 0.75" for wood thickness exiting box... When i calculate port displacement, do i find the cubic volume of 10.5" x 4.75"(plus thickness of wood) x 31.5" or 10.5" x 4.75" by 35.5" ? Do i take into account the effective area around the port too? because if i do then i would choose the 2nd option above as part of the displacement.

Well, if that's false, then I'm back to square one on the difference between to 2 because WC is cheaper, thinner with more strands and flexible... So why does car audio cable even exist... Why didn't when Knu open just rebadge welding cable with their name on it? Not picking on them, just using them as example since they're fairly new company. Anybody know a difference?

Well see, I'm trying to figure out how his amps really work. U hear competitors burping down to 0.25 but of course this isn't for music. However, I have used several 1 ohm stable amps before and when I tried to play music uner 1 ohm, like a rise around .8, it would shut off but voltage was still at 11.4?. I talked to a company and they say that these people who run under 1 ohm still are stressing the components inside and wonder when one day the amp has stopped working?? This is what's making me wonder if his SAZ amps are more heavy duty and can take potential abuse for long time to come. I do not know of any other amp out there that can. This is why it puzzles me when Jacob, himself, says that with 2 batts the amp was happy at 0.5 ohms. I've just never heard that before.

i remember the clipped graph, haha, o do i remember. When i first got mine, i hooked it up to this 2 channel amp powering my rear speakers. I had already went through 3 pairs of 6x9s in 1 year. I hooked that thing up playing test tones through it and every single frequency except for the lowest ones right around the x-over point was clipping. So i fixed all that, never had a damaged speaker since and it even sounded better... strange?

NooB's, DO NOT COMPREHEND THIS POST. Under 1 ohm coverage is void from Z series Sundown amps so no warranty is implied in this post! Ok, my question I understand that the warranty is void by doing this but throwing that out the window, i know it's still possible so what i want to know is, when is the amp not safe? Let's say i got 2 SAZ-1500ds strapped and ran a load at 0.93 ohms. Warranted coverage is no lower than 2 ohms strapped. I've talked to a manufacturer before and he said about all his amp returns are due to people not knowing what they are doing when they run too low of a load. What i want to know is, what makes it "ok" to run below that load? I keep seeing that if you keep the voltage up then the amp(s) are happy with playing tones and music.(according to the 1500d power test thread) Does this also mean if after rise is below 2 ohms strapped that it can still play all day as long as voltage is high? This is what i am trying to figure out. I will have a LOT of run of cable present = to 5 runs of 1/0, batt up front, and up to 5 HC600s within 3ft of the amps. I also use SMART fuse blocks with a threshold of 12v Flat. Meaning if the power flowing through the fuse block ever receives anything lower than 12v, the block will immediately shut down the output of power from itself until the problem is fixed(it will shut off for a split second even on hard bass notes if electrical system was not strong enough, already tested it a long time ago.) And a 200-300A alt. So with that type of electrical system and power security, is this sufficient? For long term life of the amp, does running under it's advertised load even if it never shuts off, stress the components inside too much to cause a failure even if voltage remained above 12v forever? I am suggesting seeing a load after rise with the lowest reading around 0.7-0.8 per amp on some frequencies.

they should be.i reconed last month and i told scott at fi exactly what i needed. how can i check the coils? Your DMM should be sufficient. Simply read the resistance (impedance). Make sure the woofer is not hooked to the amp and is not moving while measuring. Each coil should read very close to one another. After not thinking about that possibility... i wonder if one sub's recone is D1 and the other D2...

your usable space you have, i will design a box for the entire volume you listed. I NEED to know what frequency you would like this box tuned to. Without that, i cannot help you and i cannot suggest a frequency either. And another note - the usable space you have to work with, again i will use this entire space so make sure you have room for all those batts and amps. Also, how many baffles you want? using 0.75 thick wood, do you want me to design it with 2,3,4,5 or even 6 baffles? If it were me, i'd probably do 4 baffles with allthread everywhere. I'm not going to calculate allthread displacement if that's ok. It shouldnt be THAT much. If you want me to calculate thread displacement for the utmost accuracy possible just let me know.

make sure that when you get it, get a DMM and put the probes at each end of the wire and see if it still reads 0.0 ohms. If it does, then that's great. I had done some research on welding vs car audio wire a while back and on some distributors website it states that almost all welding cable is not oxygen free. What "can" happen if it is introduced to really cold temperatures is that welding cable can ... i don't know the term but it can potentially condensate inside the wire forming water. You definitely don't want water in there. Now, i do not remember what the temp was, i know it was well under 32F, so i decided to pay out the Wazoo for 3/0 car audio cable. I was going to go with the 1/0 orange flex if i didnt. If you get it and like it later on down the road, i'll definitely purchase some! I got 1 3/0 run now, i need about 3 more 1/0 runs under the car to have a high voltage reading in the back. That'll be just over 21,000 strands of wire!

i like that statement, hehe. I can't decide on which amp is dumber though for my setup. I hope i find the dumbest amp out there. I'm sure the cost is gonna be completely retarded. Big Jon - From past experiences, your dust cap can get warm with no worries. If it started to feel like it was about ready to start cooking for you, then let it cool down immediately. Now, i'm not saying burning type of hot, but i'm saying you wouldnt want to keep your hand there for a prolonged period of time. If it's not that hot then no immediate worries. You will know if there is too much excessive heat buildup back there. I used to own a crown vic and i could smell the glue gettin hot with this one setup i had long time ago so i know u'd be able to smell it too. You will get more peace of mind knowing your amp is setup correct though.

haha just playin

sadly, i've never had the time to do a nice clean Sq setup properly. But the good thing is, the older i get, the more i see in the future that i will later on in life, just not right now.

what setup do i prefer? What i can optimally fit in the space i have to work with. If i had a van, i'd fill the whole thing up, honestly.

yea i was just curious about how you mounted your amp because i am going to have to mount mine to the box as well and was just gettin ideas.

Ok, this is how i do it - Then i take a group vote on the settings and i am done. No, this is really how i do it- I use GoldWave to generate test tones recorded at 0db, so the graph will be completely full of sound . I then generate the exact same test tones but are attenuated down 30%, so 70% total of the original tones. I then proceed to the vehicle. I walk out of the house..... anyways i'm there. I setup the x-overs on the amp. Let's say i set the SSF to 28hz and the LPF at 65hz. I generated test tones 1 note at a time so i have 2 sets of tones ranging from 15hz to 80hz. I use the fully generated tones first. These tones i generate are 60 seconds so it's plenty of time before it switches to next track. I just pick a tone, let's say 40hz. I then set the HU's volume to a point to where the wave form starts to get clipped then of course i back it down so it isn't clipped. I then go up and from 40hz in 3 hz increments and try to adjust the gain and bass boost so it levels my playing range as good as possible. When i am done, i make myself remember that maximum volume level because this will be the level for bass tracks and test tones. I then redo this process with the 70% volume tones. This would mean a slight increase in volume from HU or maybe the gain, just depends. When I am done with this, i make myself remember this maximum volume that the HU was at. This will be the max volume i use for playing music. When you look on a sound graph like in goldwave, the bass lines on a lot of heavy bass songs tend to be approx 70% of the graph, that's why i do that. Whereas it may still be possible for some songs to clip, if they did, it would be very minor.

well, I assume that companies like what you mentioned and others who are internet based should remain internet based only. Meaning no store fronts and no companies selling their products. That way, the only way you would find such a company would be through research because you are looking for something different. And when you want information about someone's product from a company like that, you will not be told information that can only lead to a sale from what inventory they stock as compared to information period. I see DD now has dealers, don't know if it's really helpin or not but i think companies like this should remain the way they are. How would Fi do custom options if they were pre-built and shipped? The companies who have their own forum section on this site are lucky! Why? Because while researching a companies product, you come across this forum which you can then learn about their products and others and things that may have nothing to do with that company but knowledge that would help you out anyways. You can't do that with a lot of popular names, not a forum specifically dedicated to their product alone.

yea but i also work on pcs and i have to carry a lot of loose equipment in the car. I had just over $1,000 worth of equipment that they would not cover. Even if i had it locked away in a tool box somehow that was bolted to the car... if they got in and stole it they still would not have covered it. And since the money lost is less than homeowners insurance deductible, can't claim it on their either. And since i was being watched for someone to know what i had in there makes you feel leary.

thats the same one i use so i know it'll work for ya

i don't know what the "specs" say but i do know this from experience - Dropping a 3.5" drive on concrete will kill it. Guessing 2.5 would too though... Shaking(not violently) a 3.5" drive can cause damage. This can be caused by driving over lots of bumps on the road from transporting drives. This is also the reason why carputer guys like to use 2.5" drives because they are more durable on the road than 3.5" drives. All it takes is a few bumps and the reader in that thing is gonna mess up. For what he needs it for though, 3.5 should be fine.

if i didn't live with someone who was afraid of weapons, i would do it. Me and my cousin wanted to do it. He just wanted to because he likes the shooting range but both uf have that dilemma. Everyone we know is afraid of guns and are afraid if carried. I should just shoot em... nah, hehe, just playin.

i dont know but i know it's strange that i see the same thing posted twice, Luckily without audio following it,

Well, it was either that or a gun. I'm not saying going on a rampage but going to get my license and i would be the one to pull it out and shoot someone if i caught them. That scenario is illegal if it were to happen so i was talked out of it and went with security. The alarm does page me immediately so at least the most someone should be able to do is vandalize without theft.

yea man, i could even do a vid capture with sound whenever i get around to it and host it somewhere just so people can watch me do what you guys do on here... but with sound, haha. How about this, try to explain this- My cell phone (blackberry), when it attempts to retrieve data, a lot of times it will bleed it's wireless signal through speakers. It did it real good one time in a circuit city in an aisle of just shelf systems, haha, but anyways- it has done it more than once to a tv that had been turned off for a whole day! Somehow it still forced it's speakers to playback interference... with the tv off...weird?

Ok, i got a lot of things to say here so see if you can figure out the answers to these - When you are on the main forum page, go all the way to the bottom, i think it's hilarious. Right where it shows everybody that is online, read the statistical information then read it the next day and the next, you will see what i am talking about. Here is an example - Members Online Today: 161 Ok, so that means 161 registered members were on today, right? Wrong! Next line - Most members ever online in one day was 174, last accomplished on February 17th, 2008 Hmm... weird and sometimes, it will say this which is the best - Most users ever online was 0 on Today, 5:30 AM Now onto the "weird" things- I noticed something very odd today. While i was scrolling through a thread with posts that had used the reply with quote feature, i could hear my surround sound speakers making a weird very low noise. So, i cranked em up loud. This is analog out so there was a lot of noise present. Get this - If i were to click the wheel mouse so i could move up or down faster, whenever the mouse cursor would skim across ONLY the boxes that had quotes in them from a previous post, the speakers would make a constant clicking sound!?! It sounded like flipping through a page very fast but constantly. I did this several and several more times to confirm it and i was right, it only did this noise when skimming across the quoted boxes in threads.... Now i know, even though you may make a post, there are different frequencies used in one person's post. Weird isn't it? How the mouse can interpret a change in the way a post is and feedback through audio...

couple yrs ago my dad was doin somethin at his shop. He was pushing or holding this very heavy shelf system with hundreds upon hundreds of pounds of steel bard and plates laying on these shelves. At some point, while wearing gloves, his hands were open pushing against a shelf. A set of steel came running down the shelf. It came to fast for him to respond and when it came down, it hit his index finger. The 1st section of your index finger(the part you would put in a bowling ball when hooking but your index finger) was hit by the steel and the glove immediately bent completely backwards 90 degrees. He felt a pain he never felt in his finger before and knew what happened and was rushed to the hospital. They took the glove off carefully to find that the top section of his finger was only being held by skin and a VERY small piece of meat. They sewed everything up, put it in a cast for 3 months and now, it looks like nothing happened. Imagine that. This is the same guy who while at work wasn't thinking where his finger was and drilled directly through his middle finger one time. Yep, all the way through. That looked... blah, it was disgusting looking. But, lucky him again, can't tell anything heppened.