shizzzon

Well, looks decent. For your safety and to attempt to prevent theft and to satisfy an insurance claim if your equipment is covered- You are going to need to secure your box better than that for your safety. Also considering securing the box from the inside so no one can steal the box without time and effort. You need some sort of way to secure your battery down to your truck. I hope all those amps on that sub box are braced from inside the box AND have some sort of absorption base that the amps are mounted to so you don't end up damaging the amps due to excessive vibrations. You also be a lot better off securing your amps to the floor. I look at that install and know how thieves are. IF they broke in your truck, that can have all those amps in no time. Find a way and secure all of this so you are not a victim.

ok, i dont have it on any of these 6 hard drives, i have some more unplugged that i can check but i wont do it right now. If you wanna see the short clip ROE made, go to RealmofExcursions site and go to videos, then Audioque, and look for ShiZZZoN's video.

well, i did upload it to ROE when i first made it but they said it was so long that they had to cut it down big time. I do not know if i still have the original video saved anywhere or not. Let me check all my drives and pcs, i'll repost in several minutes and let u know.

wiggle the cables back there, any and all of them and try to replicate the scenario. If that doesn't do it, low voltage maybe?

they can do very little custom work like aluminum to copper wire and different voice coil configs but thats it. I can't comment on the new subs because they are using out of country parts now to cut cost down. However, the original series, the ones that cost close to $400, the ones i'm trying to sell here, lol, they can take some beating! They should be compared to the BTLs but not 100% though. A LOT of people compared the original HD3s to DD9500s. A competitor on Termpro was the one who got me to buy 2 of em at the time. He was running 1 Hifonic Colossus per sub! Metered at just over 2,200 watts per sub actual output for 3 straight burps and never even got luke warm. I got it, wired 1 15 up to an amp outputting metered power of - 600-1300w for daily drivin tuned to 29hz for about 18 months, never ever ever got warm, ever. I made a video of just over 15 minutes of straight bass, recorded at 0 db amplitude of, again, constant bass and the sub still never got luke warm. The originals are a beast.

i've never done an SPL only setup but i do know that higher Fs subs usually tend to be better for SPL. For someone that knows why would be great to post here so i know too but that's what i've noticed.

try some AQ HDC3s, Fi BLs, or.... almost forgot, Audiobahn Immortals. All of those subs have Fs's around or over 40hz so should work perfect for your attempted setup. Oh, also Hifonics higher end subs as well, i think their Fs is high up their too.

gotcha, but doesn't exist on sundown, not their fault personally, most to all class d amps are like this. i am still lost on phase response... I thought you meant phase issues. As you can tell i am not fond of this area. Or i might know what you are referring to and just not realizing it....

If i knew how to get ahold of one of my friends, he works for Geek Squad's Main HQ's and is a manager there. He got the job for how smart he is basically. He has told me some hacking stories he has done to people who have "attempted" to mess with him in the past. He's good company, just someone i know who keeps up with today's technology. I wish i had studied hacking in the past so i knew more about security before starting my own network. If you need to check who is connected or who you are connected to- go to command prompt, type - netstat press enter. If you need to see who a certain ip address is, go here - www.whois.sc if you need to see how to get to a certain ip address, like from router to router, go to command prompt, type in - tracert(press space bar)then enter their ip address and press enter. IF you need to hack someone, don't ask IF you run a wireless network and people who live around you are very tech savvy and you could be suspicious of their intelligence, do not share files\folders on any pc if you feel they are smart enough to get through your router. Get a program that can not only monitor(such as a firewall) but log all inbound and outbound ip addresses that come in contact with the router. PeerGuardian is one of these programs that keeps track of what is pinging you and who you are pinging. If something happened, you can read logs saved and find who was on your pc down to the exact minute. All this stuff i named isn't things you need to do every now and then, just things to know if you ever needed to know.

Man, unless, and i am serious too!, i am completely retarded, all the amps i have owned in the past including ones i have been researching do not allow you to turn off the x-overs on the amp itself. I am not familiar with "phase issues" unless it's completely out of phase (wired backwards or total cancellation issues). Take, for example, the Sundown 3000D. I do not see a way to disable it's x-over. Or 2\4 channel amps that force you to choose LPF\Full\HPF with no on\off switch. To tell you the truth, i have never seen an amp that lets you bypass the onboard crossover. Ok, after researching JL Audio(because i noticed it was in your sig, ///M5) that JL audio allows this, but none of the amps i am researching do. Anyways, phase issues... care to explain or am i to try and set the x-overs on the amp as close to the x-overs of an external active x-over as possible and pray that i chose amps with the same slope as the ex active x-over is using?

ok, hehe, kinda misunderstood what i was askin. johnecon2001- i know how to setup an active x-over, but as what ///M5 said about shutting the x-over's off the amps, -- What if i can't? If i purchase amp(s) where you cannot shut the filter off, don't i just run the mid\high amp full pass and the sub amp at high LPF with subsonic filter as low as possible? If the Active X-over cuts and narrows all frequencies before it reaches the amp, it only makes sense to me to open the amp's playable frequency range up as much as possible so i do not accidentally cut more frequencies out than wanted\needed.. So, is that correct procedure for that scenario?

When an active x-over is set, amps that power mids and highs, do the x-overs on these amps need to be set to Full Pass? Also, amps that power subwoofers, do these amps' LPF need to be set as high as possible? and if their is a subsonic filter on the active x-over, does the subsonic filter on the amp need to be set as low as possible?

2 bls for that amp, if you had more power, go with AQ.

This is not for show yet this is not powered like this during daily driving either. For the power ratings you are seeing, yes, it would be played like that with no one in the car. I used to just run 1 15" off of 1000w and after a few minutes, i would have to give my head rest for a while and we know that higher frequencies cause damage sooner than lower to ears. I've been to plenty of concerts and i know what my threshold is, let alone i work in a noisy environment anyway. If i can't take 1000w from 1 15, you know i wont be able to take 2 12s at 3Kw for any length of time. The high power ratings is for show, yes, but not ran like that for daily driving.

oh yea, it's possible, but you will end up killing the sub. Don't ask me what happens but you should never leave a voice coil disconnected... Now, if it's damaged, hmm, what would happen? I do know that with 3 coils, they will not all get the same power which is another problem. If you wire all in parallel, 2 coils will be 0.7 ohms, where the other coil is still 1.4 before joining together with the 0.7 wire. All in all, lot's of leary assuming goin on here, contact the manufacturer and ask them.

i didnt hear what you said JimJ?

Well, i do like to do stuff that is just.. well different. I was going to install 2 marine speakers right behind my grill, yes under the hood, for showing off, controlled by a switch on the remote line. But, if these tweeters are really that powerful, i wouldnt have to buy that setup. Those tweeters alone, facing the front of the car, installed just above the rear seats would be screaming loud, if it's true. The fronts i posted above should be loud enough along with some midbass drivers running about 125w per in the rear should be plenty of power to run with a 3000w amp. I just wanna make sure i do overkill on stereo power, i can set things down, i can't just make power appear if necessary.

well, i have heard of this happening but do not know how it's possible but I read a while back that a big con of filtering MAC address is when a hacker got in, he would clone one of the filtered mac addresses to his NIC, gain full access somehow, then remove all other MAC addresses so only he can be on your network. Do not ask me where or how this is possible, i just know it's "supposedly" possible, but with hacking, anything's possible.

I'm not network admin savvy but i have heard of some sort of wifi sniffer that can slowly but successfully steal a WEP key, so who knows what other tools are out there for hackers.

Hey JimJ or anyone else who may know this- This is a new product therefore there are no reviews that i could find but after going through the website for a little bit, this tweeter is hella crazy- Audiopipe's ATX-6650 I know the brand seems like i'm wasting my time but i am looking for loud, not perfecto sound quality but it's still capable with the right tuning. Anyways, the specs are ungodly - 4" High Power Horn Tweeter with a 2.8" Ferro-fluid Enhanced Voice coil and 130oz mag Fre response - 2Khz - 25Khz Handling - 400wrms Sensitivity - 105Db Supposedly retails for just over $100\per but can be had as a pair for about $125. One question though - it says they come with a crossover capacitor. This isn't something that will resist power will it? I know that sounds like a stupid way of wording it but a LONG time ago, i bought these 300w rated tweeters for only $3 a pair but they had some internal "something" that heavily resisted power because these things were not that loud whatsoever and were made from a company that shouldnt even exist.

but password cracking is so easy now. You can use a PS3 to crack passwords in minutes.

i thought about using bolts as speaker terminals for the box but never tested their conductivity and chose not to in the end. IF you are serious about what gauge size, get the specs out here. To achieve a certain wattage, you must multiply volts and amps together. If you have never set a DMM on speaker output of an amp, then you will not know that voltage output, depending on the amp, can go well over 200volts. You will also not know that if you have a sub wired to a certain ohm load, let's say 1 ohm(or DCR 0.7), that during playback, it could be over 4 ohm. now, there's no sense in guessing how much power each frequency will produce so just take the amp's maximum rating. Examples - 1200w @ 1ohm = 35v, 35a 1200w @ 2ohm = 50v, 25a 2500w @ 1ohm = 50v, 50a Get the picture? Now, since you know that, now let's see how thick of wire you need for a good transfer of current. go here - http://www.stealth316.com/2-wire-resistance.htm That website is suppose to be to find out how thick of wire you need for your power wire, but you, at least, get to see the resistance ratings for each gauge size all the way up to 1/0 wire. I do not think voltage drop can be a relevant spec for speaker wire considering how high voltage output is on an amp. If you look, you can see that the thicker the wire, the less resistance. Going from 16 to 14 gauge is a pretty big difference. Going from 14 to 10 gauge is a big difference as well. Larger than 10 gauge - 6 or 4 gauge will probably be noticeable but that's if you can get it to fit in there.

this is not from experience so i am only going by what someone told me in the past. running port(s) through a rear deck area is only good for SPL. Trying to get the lows to be crazy loud, vent needs to be facing toward the rear or a simpler explanation, sub and port on same wall. I know you do not have to do that with every type box but this is what has been told to me a long time ago. I had inquired about running ports through rear deck several years ago ONLY because that was the way sound could get into the cabin area. I used to drive an older model crown vic.

Littering and...littering and...littering and...Littering and smoking the refer.

well, i am actually thinking about putting something above the rear seats attached to the sub box but have not done any modeling yet but i know it may be capable. I'm just confused right now on the rear speakers. IF i were to replace my rear speakers with midbass woofers, i could then, if i wanted to, run horns behind the rear seats. I have never messed with components before so i am lost when it comes to where i should x-over the mids and highs at...never had to do it before. I'm sure with enough playin with them i'll find out what sounds good.