shizzzon

the way how their furrow fittings work sucks. I'm curious on something though since that much voltage drop across just a few inches is rare.. how hot does it feel if you place your hand over and around the fuse holder? Feel both ends, does any of it feel warm or hot? It should feel cold.

Yea i know this. I wasn't but at the same time was expecting a mass collection of points, comments, etc to look over. Too many to go through at this time though as i am going back out of town this weekend. It will definitely take a while to fix the beginning of this process so i'll let it die for now until i can attack it. Impious- i have no processor right now because i wanted to at least RTA first to determine what areas needed to be addressed.

The 8s at LEAST follow a pattern of pink noise... the tweets.. well, i'm screwed.. i dont even know where to begin with those... unless their off axis is just retarded.

well, everything measured is off axis from the headrest. The tweeters will be a lot more on axis this summer but that's then.. i'm curious on just what's happening now for the time being.

Midrange only pink noise- Tweeters only pink noise- Full front stage only pink noise- I don't know what's up with 10khz.. the computer i was using was hesitant around that area as it may not be strong enough to process live information. Just a stock celeron.

Ok. Im bout to have a batcb of pink noise tests uploaded in about 15 min. I guess I wont show the sweep graphs. All the pink noise pics were measured in stereo. This is just to get a feel as what is going on. There is about 397 things I can do without buying anything... But based on what I post, I'll try and understand why things appear the way they do.

my x-over points are as follows- 8s- 400hz-3.5khz tweeters- 4khz+ Slope, i cant remember.. it's either 18 or 24db. i use a memphis 16-x03 I'm sure the response will look like chaos but i need to do this to learn and get some SQ in my system.

who made the alt and what is it's specs? What does your battery rest at when the vehicle hasn't been started in 3hrs? Does your lights dim when driving over ~40mph?

And, hehe, if that's the case, i'm ALMOST..... pretty close, willing to bet it's a knukonceptz fuse holder if the voltage drop actually occurs as part of the block\fuse itself.

I have yet to personally use an RTA for my own personal use so let's see if I get this right- I want to use Pink noise because that is generated to play how our ears perceive sound. When analyzing what pink noise looks like on a computer, it appears from 20hz-20khz, for every octave from 20hz, the amplitude drops 3db. So, at 20khz, it's very low compared to 20hz but our ears must be very sensitive there(if you can hear it) to perceive a flat response. So, when i go to RTA my front stage, is my goal to also (if it were perfectly possible) to achieve a full range reading exactly how pink noise is generated? 3db drop for every octave up? In the end, I would assume that once one gets to that point as close to possible, you can either leave it set like that or, to the user's liking, start adjusting things from THIS point so you know exactly what you are doing. What i will be doing is the following- I have 4 8s, 2 tweeters in terrible locations.. The tweeters will be moved and replaced this summer anyways but i want to go ahead and do some RTA-ing so i can see at least how my 8's location is since it's not moving. I will be doing a sweep on the 8s only. I will be doing pink noise on the 8s only. I will be doing a sweep on the tweeters only. I will be doing pink noise on the tweeters only. I will be doing a sweep on the whole front stage I will be doing pink noise on the whole front stage My midrange sweep consists of 100hz-5000hz High range sweep consists of 1000hz-20000hz The sweeps are around 5min long to slowly read small ranges. The RTA I will be using, the SPL-Lab RTA Pro, has an Octave adjustment down to 1\96th of an octave for look for very precise ranges in the frequency spectrum. The amplitude range for this meter is 90-130db so i must play within this range for measurement results.

If you guys are assuming right, the reason for a drop in voltage in the rear is their is no ground run from front to rear. Every vehicle out there i've measured loses between 0.3-1.2v by not having a ground run.

Hmm, well, i've never condoned anything illegal by law.. but, under certain circumstances.. as long as you are responsible and mature, in my eyes, you are ok. Example- I know many people who smoke. Is it illegal? Yes. Do i smoke? No. But i am not going to turn my back toward those who do WHEN i know their life and financial situations are in order. That's the way i look at it. A normal weekend for me for the past several months would be boring.. And it's not that i am not trying to have fun, i have a goal i'm working towards and i need to stay motivated to get there. Unfortunately, fun time for me is over for a while... Only at shows will i have fun.. scheduled fun that is.

damn.. did you glue it with Jesus glue?

I don't have any pics of it but yea, this is what i do- I'll take some 3/16" thick steel flat, about 1.25" wide and cut small lengths about 2-3" long around the mounting hole with a bandsaw. I then clamp them on the back part of the baffle and start marking where i'm going to mechanically fasten them onto the baffle. I then drill 2 holes at each far end of each steel and tap them. I then mix up some Fasco 110 and apply it all pieces and clamp them onto the baffle then drive bolts through the tapped areas through the baffles and secure them with nuts anyways for super tight install. I then wait 24hrs... After that, i then come back and drill out the holes to be used to hold the sub in place. This drill bit will need to drive through the steel. I HIGHLY suggest using a 1\4 20 or 28 bolt for the subs if you want extreme handling ability. Make sure you use appropriate bit size, enlarge basket holes on sub if necessary for this size bolt and drill slow but steady once you hit the steel so you do not break the bit in the baffle. Once all the holes are drilled, then i get behind the baffle and tap each hole. This whole process takes about 48-72hrs from start to finish. Then i mount the sub, drive the bolts through and secure them with nuts too. To know when the nuts are tight enough, slowly turn them until you hear your baffle start to creak and if you hear it "crack", stop immediately, you are done with that nut, hehe.

That's right.. and i only apply it to some types of wood too

i use steel flat on the other side of the baffle... Lol, lot stronger than T or hurricane, impossible to accidentally loosen when driving bolts in and out of it and even mass loads the baffle for you in case you want to anchor something off of it.

do you use any kind of remote gain control?

Well that's interesting because MANY of us are located in Louisville including I

I have hardly anything to go off of here... Do you use the factory stereo? Do you use any external processors? Do you use aftermarket or a rockford gain control up front?

sometimes i wish i could just stay on the phone with people like you in this situation so i know exactly what's going on and when things complete but this week and possibly next week is becoming hectic.. I would offer that but i cant right now.

get on an other computer and download it and burn to disc. If the system EVER crashes while running memtest, you have a severe hardware fault.

That's what i figured it was..

We have one in town. It's in southern Indiana, Jeffersonville. I guess we'll have to install a relay or something, hehe.

Well, i guess you could always parallel a PG Psyclone with your sub so if the amp does go bad, you'd still have sound. It would be your active switching Plan B failsafe.

When does the protection light come on?