shizzzon

I think i know what shizzz's post is saying, let me explain- In my vehicle, i have 12 batts in the back. They are divided in 4 sets of 3. Instead of trying to charge all 12 separate, I have the ability to separate them when troubleshooting and charging 3 at a time. Normally, I WOULD charge all 12 at a time because they are all the same make, model and age and it's power distribution is completely uniform. For batteries that are not all the same, previous posts have explained it well. It will "work" to charge em all together but i'm after longevity and if i can get an extra 1-3yrs out of my batts after 5yrs of use, then i will follow recommendations. to PROPERLY charge a bank regardless of model, etc.. is to use a charger with an equalizer function on it. As long as all the batts are of the same technology, this shouldnt be an issue. I'll be buying a charger like this soon. Cheapest good one i found is around $220 but well worth it.

Might want to recheck the pricing on the 3500d in that pic.. unless you guys are just giving away power,

Let me tell you i'm completely new and amateurish to active front stage but i'm running 2way active now with generic x-over points before i have time to RTA them and see what needs to be addressed but for first time,2way is PLENTY for active response. I would hate to imagine what 3way would add to a headache of a mess to processing it would take.

the only way a sub cannot move down manually is if it's FIXED in the UPWARD motion. This would prevent the former from falling back in the gap. And trust me, anyone would know what that would look like and be extremely abnormal looking.

i'm not an alt build guy so i do not know what causes this or that.. etc.. So i'll try and get you to understand what i said unless i am clueless and you know more about it, which is highly possible too, hehe. Take 2 alts rated at 250A Brand A is rewound Brand B is reputable High Output. For both brands, they will only do 210A max HOT, that's just how it is. Now, Brand B si rated to do 180A idle(650rpm), but that's cold, Hot rating is 140A Brand A(rewound) only does ~40A at idle. So at idle, you have power fluctuation in your lighting. Whether this is caused from too large a pulley or something else, i do not know. I just know that rewound alts always have extremely poor idle output and when questioned about it, the answer is always.. it's impossible to get such high output at idle(IE over 100A which we ALL know is possible).. so then they are dumbfounded when shown proof.

When in a wreck, assume, because you have a problem, that literally everything is wired wrong. So, i'd literally start from scratch all the way to the headunit(minus the wire harness(we hope)).

One more day! Due to upcoming changes, our group buys are going to start happening extremely seldom from now on so do not miss out on these savings!

The pod race in Star Wars Episode 1 is awesome. I can only imagine the last hr of inception would be good.x You could try Tron too.

edouble101, why are you attacking DC Power for?

if anything, a relay, not an isolator. A relay, also called a solenoid. They are fine, but in my experience if the output side is going to a crucial battery, they still have ~0.1-0.2v drop due to limitation of being able to overkill on the wiring.

I have ~1300lbs extra in the vehicle on just 161hp stock. No, tranny issues whatsoever. All i need is new brakes at this point and it's fine. The added weight requires a different approach on taking off without squealing tires but i'm used to it now.

Don t use metric.. I used 38-24 on all my custom blocks.

if after charging them up, they rested differently, then they would effect each other all the time even during driving. All a battery is is cells. It's just a box of 6cells. Now you have 2 boxes of 6 cells. When 1 box of cells rest higher than the other, the alternator will STOP charging(maintaining) them once the level of one of the two batteries reaches full charge. Because they are paralleled together, they will share a common voltage. That means, in this scenario, one of the two may always be at 93% charged and the other at 100%. Eventually, that will deteriorate the better battery by discharging more to equalize the voltage and then kill both equally. This won't happen in 1-2 weeks, it would take time. this is also why it's not wise to charge "banks" of batteries without an equalization ability on the charger.

Well, an ammeter would definitely show you that. In my experience, correct me if i'm wrong, but rewound, to me, means substantial higher output at whatever engine rpm is required but the idle is reduced compared to STOCK or of equal value to stock. High outputs bought from reputable companies like DC, Mechman(when they use the right pulleys) and Singer, have large idle outputs like it should be. IE rewound- Saying you have a 250A alt cold, 210A hot but only 60A idle COLD, maybe 30A hot.

Well, for one, you'd have to drive about 1.5miles to the GATE to do that.. And two, i believe they punch your pass too, can't remember 100%

they told me i wasnt allowed m5 for something that i AM allowed but instead of arguing, i could care less right now. I'm there to have fun, hence Bad to the Bone, lol. Winning is not a goal in Rad class, but the goal of a 160 is. And my car is daily driver so if i can do a 160 at a show, i can do it in demos... Please give me time.. I will say this- For slamology, assuming nothing bad happens by then, i WILL be doing at LEAST 154-155db at the windshield, assuming it doesnt crack.

MECA will not see what i can actually do until it really counts at the end of the year.. Next month, i begin tuning. And since i'm in X class, i can do some bizarre things to increase my score... which means even longer tuning sessions to get to that 160.

Another thing too- Even it the alt is on and outputting current, if it's "rewound" all shitty, then it will exhibit idle output worse or equal to your stock alternator. And if so, that would mean normal to average current draw for daily driving would bog it down at idle rpm causing the voltage to sag because it's at maximum potential at idle rpm. Getting a smaller pulley would, if needed, fix the turn on output of the alternator by spinning faster at lower engine rpm but if it's rewound, then nothing will fix that except for throwing it in the trash.

lol, yea.. Then the judge says he wants a copy of that modded song.. then i go do Park n pound and steve told me my modded song was too perfect and wanted me to add some extra peaks in it... So only some modded songs are allowed now.. I guess i'll just play pink noise with lyrics and see what happens next time.

God, me too. I stopped off and ate and just got home, eating again, lol.

No, hehe. I am not in the burp class to try and go all out for quite a while. I just played George Thorogood's Bad to the Bone. Sealed on the dash, it peaked at 35hz at 150.0 My rise at burp goes from 1.8 to 6.8ohms and i am wired at 2ohms per sub. I keep it like this so i can do testing and have consistent results because of large battery bank. I can say officially though that i am now louder sealed on the dash than i am outlaw at the headrest.. It took a long time to accomplish that but now i'm there. Now i gotta try and break a 160 seriously but that may or may not happen publicly

Mother of God! The LARGE cable is POWER. The ground is the case itself. While not great, you can effectively get better voltage by running a cable somewhere as close to the case or on it as possible to ground of the battery.

and on top of that, it costs money to drive. Why does Indiana charge for gas for.. It's ridiculous.

It cost money to go to Slamology this year? Screw that, i'm out.

Well, do not assume that there is a single solution to every problem being experienced right now. I'm focused on this fuse block melted. I looked at the block, appears just like any other.. I'm assuming their wire is of adequate performance, i just never heard of them before. For that block to be a wire insert, are you sure that wire is EXTREMELY tight in there? It should be so tight that you physically cannot pull it out. IF you can, there's your problem. Another reason for melting is sporadic grounding issues that are too fast for the fuse to notice(which i doubt anyways) Also, Check the fuse screws. IF the screws holding the fuse down is not rock solid, that's another reason! see, if the fuse isn't popping and it's a 300a fuse, then the current making the block melt is under 300A. 300a is not enough to cause this to happen. If it were, then they wouldn't make them capable of holding those types of fuses because 1/0 wire is capable of transferring that current so the fuse block not should, but does have the same or better capability. From the alt, to the fuse block, to fuse, to other side of fuse, to other side of fuse block to entire battery terminal AND POST of battery and ground at batt terminal AND POST and frame ground, i'd check ALL for loose connections or for non-measurable variables or those with resistance.