shizzzon

Got some new pics. I had to modify the wall to prepare for MORE batt installation! The batteries are also going to be helping brace the flex of the back wall. What you seen inside is Thermal Insulation. Help keeps batts warm in the winter for better scores on the meter. In the summer, user MUST regulate charge voltage to compensate for ambient temperature around batteries. I have a chart here to compensate for charge voltages from -20F to 145F.

We have already talked about this before in another community and would require a whole new schematic and engineering for such. In the future, that "may", a big maybe, as an option but not for this device. The parts and engineering involved in this device are definitely not cheap mainly because it's something that is not readily available to the market in this form. We are trying to keep cost down as much as possible without sacrificing what we strive for= Accuracy. Other cosmetics, while do matter, would generally be disregarded to prevent huge cost increase. I have personally seen "other" screens with other colors available and, in my own opinion, does not look professional I guess you can say. It's slightly harder to read presented information in a quick, timely manner.

Of course, correct again. We will list recommendations and things to do to ensure your values are set properly. We can explain why such values would be ideal, etc...

You are correct! The sensor pictured above is what the DC and AC sensor look like. There 2 of them per package. When the wire goes through the sensor, it's monitoringprotecting current and voltage. It's kinda pointless to protect too much DC current so we focus on low dc voltage protection, ac high voltage protection and ac high current protection. You would wire the DC sensor in with an amp's power line or charging cable. Most people will run it in line with an amp of their choice. The Ac sensor will run in line with 1 speaker terminal output. This will measure AC current and voltage. With it setup like this, the user would then set thresholds that the system is not to surpass. IF ti surpasses any, the unit will flash the value it was at which broke the threshold and will trip the entire system to alert the user of such problem. AC high voltage protection can protect from excessive clipping, dirty output, etc... AC high current protection can protect from excessive current being dumped into your speaker(s) causing the tinsel leads, coil, etc.. to overheat. There are other factors involved which can cause these things to burn up without excessive power being the answer here... but i can assure you that if the current isn't tripped under those under conditions, the voltage sure will be. We will have more info soon publicly. We are in the middle of revising the DC sensors to 200A standard and preparing mass production and then we can get more elaborate on the details.

We will be manufacturing these devices with 200A DC sensors as a standard. 200A DC rms 300A DC peak. 1/0 cable capable. Prices will NOT change to our customers. Group Buy pricing will be posted before the end of the month.

it's on a sunday so i'm out 100%.. until i can compete that is.

This is what i do- First decide how far forward you want it, that's first! After that, decide on whether you want to leave any paneling including headliner in place or not.. The more you REMOVE, the more you can structurally brace it externally and give it more strength. Once you decide this, then first goal is to remove paneling and THEN figure out how you are going to level out the floor. IF you need to weld, weld. IF you need to attach wood to any steel structure in your car, purchase Fasco 110. Use Titebond II on wood in areas where it will NOT run down. If it runs, use Fasco 110 instead. Use screws where needed. Try and use as much external bracing as possible and as little internal bracing as possible. Int volume and tuning is not important right now. The baffle and port should be about the last thing you install before the wall is pretty much done. Get an estimate as to how much space you have to work with. Use the most possible in a sense. Don't try and get 20cuft for 2 15s, for example unless you have very specific goals...

No offense, and i know u know i'm not trying to, but if i cancould, i'd really wish i was there pretty much pre-testing the install and monitoring you during such event. I'd rather support you in person with what you are about to do because if a problem arises, you need to disconnect immediately and safely or your sub or amp(s) can go pretty quick in something bad happens. you need a 2nd pair of eyes on your amps and voltage at all times when doin something like that. You do have a mega batt bank which is good for voltage.. i'm just advising caution because i know u can't test the way you would need to before doing this burp and "guessing" what happens.

We were requested to post up Wattage calculations for those who do not want to do the math. This is a guide to let you know what our DC 100A sensor is capable of handling to allow you to better choose which sensor is more appropriate for the average user. The following is wattage calculations based on "paper calculations." That means without ANY OTHER variable effecting the result. Also, the following is actual current draw, not output power from your amp. To compensate for this, I will post theoretical wattage output capabilities next to it. (class d eff- 82%, class ab eff- 67%. This is used for following calculations) DC Sensor 100A- Class D amps continuous- 10.0v - 1000w pull, 820w output 11.0v - 1100w pull, 902w output 12.0v - 1200w pull, 984w output 13.0v - 1300w pull, 1066w output 14.0v - 1400w pull, 1148w output 15.0v - 1500w pull, 1230w output 16.0v - 1600w pull, 1312w output 17.0v - 1700w pull, 1394w output 18.0v - 1800w pull, 1476w output 19.0v - 1900w pull, 1558w output SURGE(quick spikes, amp watt rating)- 10.0v - 1500w pull, 1230w output 11.0v - 1650w pull, 1353w output 12.0v - 1800w pull, 1476w output 13.0v - 1950w pull, 1599w output 14.0v - 2100w pull, 1722w output 15.0v - 2250w pull, 1845w output 16.0v - 2400w pull, 1968w output 17.0v - 2550w pull, 2091w output 18.0v - 2700w pull, 2214w output 19.0v - 2850w pull, 2337w output Class AB amps continuous- 10.0v - 1000w pull, 670w output 11.0v - 1100w pull, 737w output 12.0v - 1200w pull, 804w output 13.0v - 1300w pull, 871w output 14.0v - 1400w pull, 938w output 15.0v - 1500w pull, 1005w output 16.0v - 1600w pull, 1072w output 17.0v - 1700w pull, 1139w output 18.0v - 1800w pull, 1206w output 19.0v - 1900w pull, 1273w output SURGE(quick spikes, amp watt rating)- 10.0v - 1500w pull, 1005w output 11.0v - 1650w pull, 1106w output 12.0v - 1800w pull, 1206w output 13.0v - 1950w pull, 1307w output 14.0v - 2100w pull, 1407w output 15.0v - 2250w pull, 1508w output 16.0v - 2400w pull, 1608w output 17.0v - 2550w pull, 1709w output 18.0v - 2700w pull, 1809w output 19.0v - 2850w pull, 1910w output To understand what was just posted above, Look at SURGE ratings! If you are hooking up this sensor to an amp, make sure your amp is NOT RATED higher than what the surge rating is listed for based on the voltage. Otherwise, you may want to opt for our 200A sensor being the primary sensor. If hooking up to an alternator charge cable, divide the number the cables being used by the maximum current output of the alternator. Only one of these cables run through the sensor. This number along with voltage listed above should be used for the CONTINUOUS chart. Alt = continuous, Amp = surge.

Ah,,,, i was comparing apples to apple sauce. Close... I wasn't referring to flexible..The kinda cable where you gotta warm up for 25 minutes with P90X before installing it.

We have a question for everyone. The current DC Sensor side is setup to accept up to 100A of continuous current flow through a power cable that would run through this device. Would it be more sufficient for us to upgrade the DC sensor to a permanent 200A continuous sensor(1/0 cable fitting) or as an upgraded option? FYI - 200A continuous will be safe for the following scenarios- In-line with an amp's power line where the driver configuration is wired no lower than recommended allowing normal current draw. If a customer's sensor were to burn up, we willcan supply another sensor as we will keep these in stock so no worries there. We are just stating that under normal operations, for example, an amp that has dual inputs. Using only one of the 2 inputs for the DC sensor is all that is required. Surges up to 300A are fine as long as the continuous current flow through the sensor is not over 200A which in normal conditions should never be. So, let us know... We are trying to find out if the public wantsneeds 100A continuous DC Sensor or 200A continuous DC Sensor. It doesn't matter what power cable the DC Sensor is monitoring to properly protect against voltage drop! This is important to know. So let us know what you think.

My name is Dr. Sean. "Now, you're gonna have to ask yur-say-elf...." Oops, that's Dr. Phil.

that's VERY $$$ for 2.0 cable man.. Hell, Lowes sells 2/0 cable for less than that. Also, www.wireandsupply.com sells 4/0 cable cheaper than that.

if u have pneumonia, you would have sharp chest pains as well. Also, if that what you have, taking cough medicine will only prolong the problem as it prevents your body from coughing and breaking up the infection... Read about it.

I picked up some Thinsulate from Phi on here. He was hoardin the shit.. I should call the audio police! But seriously, anyone know which way this stuff should be facing? It has 2 sides, one side looks to be some sort of vinyl coating and the other side is packed full of cotton.

About ready to start putting batteries in this compartment in my car and need to line the wall with some sort of padding so the batts are not just wedged in there around wood. I figure I might as well go ahead and get something that can keep this compartment somewhat warm so i can have the edge in better performance during the cold season for when I compete. So, any thoughts? For the side walls, i have about 1\4" gap on each side of the batts for reference sake. Front and rear, I have 1 1\8" gap in front and behind batt bank. I also have room to put something under them as well but if i do , it must be severely thin, like 1\8" thick, no thicker.

<Maury> In the case of T3. Nick, you are NOT a T3 employee <Nick talk>And I never will be</Nick talk> </Maury>

He got a job offer at T3

I was assaulted today.. by myself 2x4 slipped out of my hand on the table saw and wacked the hell out of my forearm... It still hurts like hell 2hrs later.. Feels like i just got done doing 300 forearm exercises too many..

Gotta go to doctor sometime this coming week... Been noticing the last few days my Lymph Node on left side of face is swollen and has slightly gotten bigger today. It's about the size of a dime and ~1\4" bulging. After reading online.. It's commonly caused a past(but not cured) infection or present infection with cold\flu like symptoms... Well, I have 0 symptoms. Other possibilities is cancerous and since I do have Celiac disease, it is possible.. But I do not believe that to be the case here... Doing more reading, I share the same thing as people who have West Nile Virus... I have mosquito bites all over me from working on my car all the time. 80% of people with WNV have no symptoms except for .. wait for it.. swollen lymph node(s). So, hopefully it's something as simple as that. Probably get blood work done this week and see what my Doctor says. PS- Celiac = Gluten disease. Cannot eat anything with Gluten or i'll turn into a Funky Pup and pop.

yea unless you have someone there who can keep pausing the track and starting it up again.

yea, i would do it at a lower volume than what you burp at to prevent the variable of voltage drop effecting the two. Do a burp that will last about 1-2min straight so u see how crucial it is to use lower volume. Do amp one, then amp two, then go back to amp one and make sure it's STILL reading what amp two is reading!

don't strap em. Gain match them instead. Input stages on amps today are still too fragile, in my experienced opinion, to strap amps for daily or any session longer than a few seconds. I'm sure if you run them independently, the Protect will go away. The strapping section is independent from the Line input section in terms of sharing like problems with input stage. It's very possible you have a strapping problem with the RCAs but the Line Input section is still fine. Test and see if i'm right. If i am, run separate and gain match.

just pass through... I have a pvc pipe in my wall that i am passing through 16 runs of 8awg. I then seal it up with foam and i compete. In the past, I would drill a hole just large enough for cables to slide out then silicone the hole back up. Zip tie the cables before and after exiting hole.

True.. We chose USB throughout because this device is flashable.