shizzzon

many cars are different... Some are so difficult.. even mechanics would complain...Seriously. Mine was literally right on top so all i had to do is whip out a breaker bar and pipe it to put the belt back on. The bolts holding it on were easy to get off on my car. Basically, if you can't get your hand easily to the alternator.. it will be hell getting it out.

it fried on me, aftermarket, bla bla bla... I was debating on getting it fixed vs putting stock alt on because my stock alt was stronger at idle but i didnt have the tools to do it... after over a month.. i finally got the tools and know how and put the stock alt back on.

Another thing too just to throw this out there... For a period of ~40days, i was driving my car with no alternator.. I had 3 batteries in the car i was using to drive myself back and forth to work in. It was a total of 235aH and i would drop from 13 to 11.7v by the time i got home. This was just driving, no stereo on... Total of about 37 minutes driving time including 2 startups. Everyday i would get home and throw the batteries on charge. (i had to do each battery... it was interesting but i got used to it) I would get home and throw the starting battery on charge first.. About 3hrs later i would throw the other smaller batt in the back on charge... Right before i would go to bed, i would throw my G31 on charge and take it back off in the morning and go to work.. Now, you wouldn't have to do this the way i did because you have an alternator... You could do this on a weekend where u have plenty of time. Just letting you know an experience i went through before.

Hmm.. I waited til my 21st birthday to drink.. I'm just well disciplined.

Morning sickness is one of the most common signs.. Having your stomach hurt so soon isn't. And also.. stop drinking! Not even 21 yet...

3 new songs have been re-done- 2Pac - Hail Mary Metallica - One Lynyrd Skynyrd - Free Bird

I know i would get an alternator too but if the OP wants to go through the trouble of saving up some money for a few months on an alt while he manually charges batts up once a week or whatever then that's fine too. Besides additional features that may exist.. more $$ chargers typically just charge faster.. Not something of interest anyway... 10-15A is normal for a G31 batt and of course the smaller, the less current recommended. I do not know, or dwell, on what other features are out there on chargers. I just know on my Diehard Platinum charger, it will load test the battery prior to charging, regulate voltage to a constant 14.7v after it's initial charging sequence has started, constantly lower current output as the battery reaches full charged capacity and will trickle charge once battery is charged with an auto shutoff\on depending on state of battery if charger is left on for long durations after charging is completed.

Battery charger i use costs less than $100 at sears.

oh wow! sorry man.. didn't know you had that restriction...

u don't have access to the tinsel leads? that makes no sense.... Pull the sub out and probe the tinsel leads that's the closest reading u will get to the coils without cutting the soft parts out.

measure AT the tinsel leads, literally probe the leads and see if it reads anything.

hehe, had to throw in some humor to get your mind off the subject... You keep feelin paranoid in here i'll bring the wall of funnies in here and go way off topic.. Don't speculate, only base your decision on facts as something like this has a LONG window to respond too.

Ok, i didn't read through all the posts, all i know is something is royally messed up... Here are typical tips- Before your present a "Load", make sure you are properly grounded! For safety sake, your "Load" will need to be fused. These are some good fuses to use- Those fuses above can handle a LARGE load before they pop. Ok, next thing to keep in mind is your voltage. When you are ready to "Blast it", make sure you have enough "reserve" so you do not damage something by "Blasting" too much! I "Blasted" so hard one time i thought i was gonna go deaf. Next thing is deadening. You don't want anybody to hear what you are doing so you should "Blast" only in an area where no one else can hear so it's not annoying anyone. Let me know if any of this helps.

No no no Im not having issues with my car or my 2000D at the moment. No problems at all. Even Jacob said at 2 Ohm is just fine. Lights never dim or anything. Im just asking because I have a 3500D on the way, but again, I will be using it at 2ohm for now until I get my two 12s xcons. I NEVER play music with car off. I learned the hard way long time ago when I was getting into car audio and didnt even know what ohm resistance was lol and btw, I have factory alternator and only one battery, the factory one. No issues at all. But again, Im asking for reference in the future... then i would add the recommended battery quantity to the rear that XS recommends. So, if u only have starting battery right now.. install a D3100 in the back. You WILL need to periodically charge it back up though. Also, 98gmc, i didnt look at the link but if it can do at least 10-15A for agm, then it's fine for up to G31 batts when charging separately (recommended)

if u are dropping to 11.9v with a sundown 2k @2ohms.. then you need to pull both batts out and charge them separately, FREQUENTLY. I'd say one a week. Without having upgraded alt, your stock alt will take longer and longer to maintain batts the more you put in there. So it's mandatory to manually charge bank of batts when you only have a stock alt. So in this scenario, i can save you a lot of money and you do not even have to switch to Geico! Just go get you an AGM battery charger. Want one now? Go to Sears. Their Diehard chargers are very good! I use the one with following specs- 2A trickle, 15A slow, 40A fast, 125A engine start.

Group buy ends Oct 10 so do not miss it if you want one of these!

In response to everybody to has posted, viewed, talked to others, or dreamed about this thread-

oh well, need to get to sleep anyway..

i was typin so much shit in their tonight.. the server overloaded and didn't know what to make of it... Not only that, i was kicked out of the chat for also being too many members in there... I guess, me alone, consists of 20 people.

i'm only in the chatroom because ashton kutcher kicked me out of all the other rooms.. but we are making up and went to the bar... The SSA chatroom bar.

yea but honestly.. out of all the limited help that some of us is actually providing, i see no evidence of him actually taking our advice. So i'm done with this thread.. I can only offer advice, it's up to those to use it.

according to Solidworks' website it passes.. and not the minimum requirements either.. the recommended requirements.

Neither of those have a dedicated graphics card = fail. You need a dedicated card to do gaming. No.. not if you do Cloud Gaming which is what i was talking about earlier. It is a very nice technology that allows a user to save money on the requirement of upgrading hardware over time to keep up with gaming technology. You could a laptop purchased 5 years ago with this service and 10 years from now, it would still be plenty fast.. Minus the requirement for Solidworks... I'm money conscious, just trying to find the best deal for the price.

uh yea... especially if they will let you have it tested imo, if it passes AZ's test and when charged up can rest at no lower than 12.9v, then that's pretty good.

This computer passes all requirements for Solidworks 2012- http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16834214412 If it runs glitchy, be sure to upgrade video driver to newest version when using Solidworks. if you want a little more speed and still under $800, check this out- http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16834214415 Core i7 line, pretty nice!