shizzzon

ok.. well, i'm done with caribou lous.... The constant taste of pineapple juice is about to make me gag... So.. now, i have racked up the following.... Coconut Rum Banana Rum Pineapple Rum Orange Rum Bacardi 151 Meyers Rum Hott Damn 40 and 100 Proof Don Julio 1942 So i was sitting here pondering what i could with them... And then i got it.. Most of this liquor IS a recipe for something my local bar makes... So i went there, they let me photo the recipe on my phone and i took it back home and modified it a little They call for a 32oz glass with half of it just ice.... Well, F that.. I freeze everything i make so I'm goin all out.. 26-28oz of pure mix. So, i mixed- Bacardi 151 Banana Rum Pineapple Rum Orange Rum Coconut Rum With.... Cranberry Juice Pineapple Juice Orange Juice It's called the Titanic.... If you can survive one 32oz glass fo this.. you will fall.. It tastes like a fruit drink so you will want to drink it fast.. And that's the last thing you will remember.. drinking it fast, lol... Anyways, i need to make some more up... it's a killer drink.. Oh.. i almost forgot, i'm in the chat, lol.

okie dokie

well? Any official pricing on those struts yet? My car is sinking 1" every week, lol.. it's losing oxygen....

Hehe.. Not really a stupid question though...

well, i have level5 soft parts in ALL of mine so that wouldnt make a difference... that's why i was irritated when after i bought mine, they came out with D1s in level4 because prior, you had to get lvl5 parts for a D1 config.

i dont see how... I own several level4s and their suspension is about as soft as a Sundown SA.

the installer used shears because it was too hard to cut with a knife like you normally would tint. All that you need to apply, i believe, is a LOT and i mean a LOT of water. When applying tint, you need to use light water but this stuff needs a waterfall to install. That's why air\water bubbles are so common to happen and i had to go back day after day to get them all fixed. Once it is applied, you cannot remove it so once the majority of the film is on there, you better not make any large mistakes. I do not know the exact labor intensity of the job because i dropped my car off for the whole day then picked it up that night.

ok, with slim jims.. you just build something right up underneath of the window seal inside the door. A cavity so you can't go looking for the locking mechanism. Anyways, I had installed a Viper something, it's been a few yrs ago. I think it was a 790 something i believe. The system itself was around $300 but after i had all these extra sensors put on and 6 sirens and ~$600 labor.. it jacked the price of the alarm system to just a hair under $1000. I had proximity sensor, tilt sensor, (dual shock sensor included), hood switch sensor, dual external battery backup sirens, 3 peizo internal sirens, 1 internal (outside siren). Took all day for it to be installed but it's worth it. IT's a 2way pager system. Then i ordered security film. $280 to have 30sqft shipped to me to do all the side windows. $150 labor with lifetime install warranty.

i can tomorrow if i can remember.. Leavin to go fix 2 different computers right now.

Protective laminate MUST be installed FIRST, then tint over it. Level 3 + tint is the thickest\best protection to get on windows that roll down\up. i did my alarm first, then i did the laminate like a week or two later. The goal of laminate is not to permanently prevent, but to slow down intrusion while the alarm is going off. If you have a paging alarm, you will be out there before a thief can penetrate enough to gain full access.

hehe.. That company is weak... Also, there is no substitute, or an either or... You get an alarm AND bulletproof laminate. My security system on my car cost around $1400. I don't skimp out on low quality protection. I use ACE Security. Level 3 protection on glass that moves so it can still fit through the seals at the top and bottom. Level 4 protection on glass that is stationary. Level 3 and 4 are bulletproof where Level4 is godlike, hehe. Check this video out.. The more you watch, you will notice the harder they try to break it And remember, the video you are watching is only Level3 protection.. Level 4 is ridiculous strong. I looked at the specs on Shatterguard.. it's a joke man. Break strength for Shatterguard's VehicleGuard is only 122 PSI ACE Security's Level 3 break strength is 350 PSI and Level 4 is 450 PSI. You purchase sheets from ACE by the square foot and they start at $8/ft. Remember- You need to find someone who is HIGHLY QUALIFIED and has experience in installing this stuff! IT took my car 6 days to get it fully installed because i had to keep going back to relieve air bubbles because the sheeting is so thick and strong. Curved glass alone takes approximately 5-9 hrs and about 2-4 days of cosmetic touchup to finish. OH.. and here is ACE Security- At 1:40.. it starts to get real good.

You'd be surprised by what all Russia has brought to the table...

i've seen rapid in and out protection caused from internal fault at rca inputs. Thing to try to rule that possibility out quick- Unplug all rcas and see what happens. If it stays on, start by plugging one in at a time until you find culprit. At that time, take that rca cable and plug it into another input channel on amp to rule out cable and preout channel from HU. Also.. when i have seen this happen in person.. the amp caught on fire about 10sec later... So hopefully it hasn't on you...

show us pics of your "regluing" areas.

buy about 29 more and have Zenon send you a custom base board, 1" thick PCB with 6awg copper rails inside that will replace the traces in the boards and build a 90,000w amp @8ohm with 10way protection.

nope.. i need struts. Also, is there a way i can look at a catalog or something about some more air parts? I will need to order (not immediately with this order) some air line, very small air tank, around 2gal or less and a decent compressor with all the bells and whistles with it that i do not know off hand right now.. I just don't know what to get exactly, just basics and was wondering if you had or point me somewhere where i can surf through different brands of that stuff.

Did you ever get a definite price yet?

He hasn't mentioned anything about tweaking crossovers in both cases though. See now?

it's quieter wired lower because he has to narrow his crossovers to prevent the sub from bottoming out... Read what i posted. It sounds like it fits.

any price on that part number? Also.. i may need to purchase additional air parts too but it's along the lines of i may need to see what's available, you know what i mean?

i use general purpose aluminum, 6063. I've built several distro blocks out of it using 3\8" bolts fine threaded and torqued down til the allen wrench started twisting and never had a problem.

I believe i have your answer! You know that in a vehicle you have cabin gain. Many vehicles may have more than 1 peak, but that doesn't mean each peak is just as strong as the next.. Anyways, when you had it in series, let's assume the playable range was wide open from 30-70hz. Your vehicle, for example, peaks at 50hz... Well, you then wire to 1ohm and set crossover points to control mechanical movement.. here is where it gets interesting- For one, we do not know how the box is tuned in correlation with "if" it's even intended to peak with vehicle! Anything above and below tuning is going to make the speaker move more... hint hint.... So, assumingly, you have narrowed down it's mechanical range to really only play around tuning OR just in a range where it doesn't move as much period. This would never imply this is at or near peak output for your setup so can only assume the narrowed bandwidth that is set now is centered in an area that is not loud for your vehicle and you have cut out the area(s) that will get very loud.

so in terms of mpg to cost, is ethanol saving you money over just regular gas?

i'm a noob at air anything suspension. IS that safe or just as reliable as a full air strut? There has to be some sort of disadvantage of doing this or else we'd all do it for only $150 per wheel, lol. Is the impact this bag holds put any strain on the stock strut?

negative.. can you remove the meter off the cap? AQ2200d @1ohm on 70a alt is bad enough.. adding an extra batt in the back is like a bandaid to a problem... You install that cap in there.. you might as well just add some more amps too because that's the route you are headed down.