imhungnurnot

noo.. like all i meant was that i don't turn my radio off before i turn my truck off.. but the radio does turn off with the key off.. only reason i said this is because it is weird that i turn my truck on and the sub amp goes into protect, but if i turn my radio off then back on once the truck is running everything works fine

hmm could be.. but i have the remote wire from my HU going to my bass amp then to my highs amp. So i would assume that it wouldn't turn on the second amp on the line first (the highs amp)

I have a Autotek MM1400.1D and Autotek MM75.4 in my truck. I leave my truck parked for a few days at a time at school. The 1400 goes into protect mode when I turn my truck on after its been sitting for a few days (I leave the radio on all the time), but when I turn my radio off then on again everything is okay. I can turn the truck off and on after the amplifier is off of protect, and it turns on like normal. What could be the cause of this?

You would them loose your left and right control.. which isn't bad.. but wouldn't you also lose your time alignment feature from your HU? (assuming you have that feature).. i'm really curious cause i wanna run active front stage w/ time alignment and if i could get away with using a 2 channel it would be great!!!

So I found a tutorial on the MLX-100 ( ) and here they used ampfliers with a master/slave switch, but im thinking that was just a coincidence because they had both switches set to master.. so IF i'm correct.. the MLX-100 is a way to get around not having a master/slave switch.. right?PS. The device will also serve as a line driver?

Alright.. I really dont remember how amps are actually strapped.. is it almost like running the outputs of the amps in series?

Can any amp be strapped? I asked about strapping Autotek MM's before on this forum and I was told they could not. Yes you can, using a device called a Maxxlink: Maxxsonics Maxx-Link MLX-100 (mlx100) Equalizers Sound Processors Car Audio Car Audio, Video, & GPS Navigation - Sonic Electronix So strapping my two 1400.1s.. I should be getting 2800 watts x 1 at 2 ohms or 4 ohms?

Can any amp be strapped? I asked about strapping Autotek MM's before on this forum and I was told they could not.

I recently got a nice deal on two used mm1400.1d's. Now i'm considering running them together on one BTL 12. Does it matter if one has a little more wear and tear than the other? Will it be okay as long as i check that i have the amps sending the same output wattage with a multimeter? Is it a bad idea all together?

How do the orphan compare to the rli 8 considering SQ and SPL? As far as I understand they each work well in the same size enclosures.

What do you want? More SPL or SQ? I mean any Fi sub is going to sound good and be loud. I mean even the SQ sub (the Q) is loud and will make shit vibrate in your vehicle unless it is properly matted.. but you'll probably still have rattles.. so the question is how loud do you want to be and what are the parameters of that box? (assuming you will use that one) unless you're planning on building another? But, for that amp you should be fine running any Fi woofer. But the BTL will be underpowered.. Id go with a Dual 2 ohm sub running it at 1 ohm getting 1500 watts RMS.. For being loud, i'd say the BL (with options to increase RMS) or the Q to still be loud but to be more musical with amp gain set accordingly.

haha its cool, it would be difficult to construct it the way you were thinking and it would be a bitch getting it in an out of the truck.. and it would make it harder to bolt the seats down.. i actually have my seats mounted to my seat belt post on one side with custom mounts.. I originally had a bench with that same wedge box behind it.. so i added the buckets with two more subs and i had to mount the bucket seats some kind of way.. i need to find a decent price to get those seats wrapped.. i'd like the original chevy red with the original pattern so it matches my interior..

Thank you! I had to sacrifice a little leg room, but the subs dont hit the back of the seats due to the angle of the front of the box / angle of the back of the seat. In addition, the subs are recessed 3/4in on the box behind the seat.

No dude, thats my port..

Sorry, this will clear a few things up.. Also, my signature is not updated, I am now running a MM1400.1D @ 2 ohms which its rated at 1000 watts but I have stock electrical and 4 gauge wire so i may only be getting about 750-800 watts total and both boxes are sealed.. I metered it the other day and did a 143.4 on the passenger floor, its not very loud but it would be very clean without all the rattles..

I need to get more footage and create another video.. I was in a rush this time and everything that i filmed didn't come out very good but this reaction is pretty funny. Fi fans will enjoy!

please help..

anyone?

So if i flare one end, and choose one flanged end in WinISD. It deducts length off of the port length.. would i still have to deduct half of the height of the port from the port length when using one side of the box as one side of the port?

So I will be fine using the program to determine port length based off of the volume of the box and the tuning i enter into the program?

I researched these and shouldn't the super boom alignment make a peak on the response curve? When I changed between alignments it seemed none of them modeled an enclosure for SPL. What to do if i am interested in SPL design?

What are the differences between the alignments QB3 Quasi-butterworth, BB4/SBB4 (Super-)boom box, C4/SC4 (Sub-)Chebyshev, EBS3 extended bass shelf -3 dB, and EBS6 extended bass shelf -6dB when using WinISD?

I believe its the 1.6 cuft net volume.. 2.0 cuft would probably fix the problem.. i played with the crossover today.. and i moved the crossover from 40 Hz 12DB slope (it was set at 12 the whole time, not 18 like i stated earlier) to 50 Hz 12 DB slope and once again the high freqs were overdriven, so I left the Hz at 50 and changed the slope to 18 and it balanced the high and low output pretty well.. but the overall output is still weak.. again, i think increasing the enclosure to 2.0 cuft will increase the output.. correct? when designing an enlcosure, will maximizing the port area increase the overall output?

We shifted topic with the crossover, but i'll try what you all told me later.. What i'm confused about is the port area.. I know 12-16 inches of port area PER cuft of net volume. I built the box with 11.25 inches of port area per cuft.. its not that far off from 12.. and i figured it wouldn't be a big deal because of the weak suspension on the speaker.. Is it correct to think that way? because if the speaker has weak suspension, then a smaller port will increase the back pressure against the sub to keep it in control with the lower frequencies.. but if this is true.. will the smaller port constrict the speakers movement in the higher frequencies? Maybe my theory is completely wrong.. But what do you all think?

Well if your trying to compare output from higher frequencies at the same volume to lower frequencies then it wont never be even. Regardless where you have the filter at, 500 watts @ 30 hz will sound lower and have less output then 500 watts @ 40, 50, 60 hz and so on. less output in the higher frequencies.. which is what i was aiming for because i had enough volume with the high but not enough with the low.. so i cut the high to balance it out with the lows a little better..