imhungnurnot

Great!!

This is one of my Fi X 12's that I've recently burnt the leads on, and I'm in the process of repairing it. Its hard to see, but in the last pic i have the tensil leads unsoldered and the copper leads from the coil ready to be soldered to the new tensil leads. I paypaled the money for the leads and dustcap to Fi so now im waiting for them to come in!!

Thanks!! That thread is very helpful!!

The previous repair was not on this sub. I didn't "zero" the meter, but i touched the leads of the meter together and it read 0 ohms. Its a fluke meter and it was given to me by my uncle. I don't have the manual; therfore, i don't know how to zero it out. In fact, i didn't even know that it could be zeroed, but i know what you are getting at. Besides the other coil ohmed out to 3.9 so its not the meter. If i burn it up, i burn it up. Its 45 bucks for a recone. It's repairable, but at the moment preventative maintenance isn't worth it because it probably could use a recone as is. Thanks for all of y'all's input.

I'm dealing with a D4 Fi X 12. The coil is supposed to read 3.9, but for simplicity, I say 4. It was reading between 5.6 and 6.2 so idk what happened but it started reading 4.2 so thats close enough for me. Why it would do something so strange? NO IDEA!

They range from $100-$40. BTL $100 - X $40. Yea, probably a do it yourself job. I've never reconed a speaker, but imagine it isn't too hard as long as you can solder, center the coil, and have the right glue to stick the surround and the spider to the basket. Did I overlook anything with that statement?

The recone shop on the Fi website has various recones. When you purchase one, do you send in your sub and Fi fixes it or does Fi simply send you the recone for you to do it yourself?

I understand what you are saying. But it read 6 at the terminal, but 4 at the lead. When i ohmed it the next day at the terminal it read 4 ohms. I was thinking it could be the leads for the meter or the meter itself, but my other 8 coils read 4 ohms on the same meter. Idk what the hell happened, but im gonna throw all four back in the truck once I repair my leads on the broken one and play it till I blow another. I have an RE SX 12 that i bought for 20 bucks cause the leads were burnt/broken, which I fixed with the wrong gauge leads because it was all i had. It's actually in the truck right now and plays fine. I'm considering reconing it to a SX/BL hybrid or just buying the 2009 BL 12 and run a single 12 instead of four X's. I don't know what i want to do.

I ohmed it again today just out of curiousity. The good side read 4 ohms, and the bad side still read 6. So I ohmed it from the leads and it read 4 ohms. Then I ohmed it again from the terminal and it read 4 ohms like it's suppose to. So idk what the hell happened because i ohmed it plenty times to make sure i had a good connection.

One of the voice coils on my sub no longer reads 4 ohms. I'm repairing one of my subs right now, and I decided to ohm the other subs just to see if i damaged more than that one. Well one coil is reading 6 ohms instead of 4 ohms. Leads are not broken and they do not seem to be burnt. Coil doesn't appear to be discolored. Any thoughts? Thanks

I first saw it done on this forum. Its pretty simple, but you have to be careful. You set the blade of your saw so it doesn't go completely through the wood. Depending on how much of a curve you are making will determine how many cuts need to be made before it can be bent. There is a thread on here with much more detail, check it out. Yes, they have approximately the same airspace. I say approximate because I calculated the airspace of the middle box using the volume of a trapezoid, two actually, and one triangle added together. But the middle box is not divided because i wasn't sure where to put a divider to make the airspace equal for each sub. But according to what i've been told, sealed boxs do not need dividers as long as the woofers are getting the same signal.

Im a rookie and this is the first time i've bent MDF. I think I did an alright job, I'm just curious as to what kind of feedback id get from this.

This is one of my Fi X 12's that I've recently burnt the leads on, and I'm in the process of repairing it. Its hard to see, but in the last pic i have the tensil leads unsoldered and the copper leads from the coil ready to be soldered to the new tensil leads.

So why do you think I'm blurning my leads? Because the coil has a higher tolerance than the leads?

Not a problem!! Thanks again!

I ran mine at about 450-500rms each but due to a weak electrical system i think i began to send clipped power to the subs. Either that or it was just too much power because i burned my positive leads. But thats not a big deal, ha all you need is a razor blade, dremel tool, soldering iron, rubber cement, some lead, and a dust cap. It gets the job done. The easiest thing to do is not put that much power to them. I learned the hard way, but i have yet to burn a coil so i'm doing alright! Maybe if i upgrade my electrical I won't have any more trouble. I pulled them from my truck because i need to repair one of them. But i have Fi X's.. I don't think anything changed when they were rolled over to the ascendant assain series. So They should take 400 fine. Just listen to the subs when you adjust your gain and turn the volume down when a "louder" song is playing and you'll be fine.

Awesome!! But unfortunately i can fix the sub for less than 5 bucks if i can get in touch with Fi. I might buy one of those sub's as a back up! I'm running four of them, but the only damage i've done to these subs so far is burn leads!

I was told by other members of this forum to email Fi about this topic, which i did, but I have not got a reply and it's been about a month since i sent the message. Any chance Fi still has recones for D4 X 12's? Or should I invest in an Ascendant Assain? Also, its just the leads. I've replaced the leads on one of my D4 X's already so i know i could do it, but i cut through the cone getting the dustcap off. Maybe I could ship the sub to Fi to get it repaired since they deal with things like this all the time? I'm just exploring my options! Since it's been so long without my sub, I am willing to repair it myself again. All I will need is four leads and a dustcap. Depending on what is available, I'd like to purchase 16 leads and 4 dustcaps. Thanks

Hi, i have a blown tensil lead on my X 12 and i was wondering if Fi could re cone it or replaced the bad lead. This isnt my first blown lead. Before i replaced them but in removing the dust cap i cut through my cone, so i'd rather send it off to Fi. Does Fi cut off the dust caps for this kind of work? or just recone the sub? If a re cone is needed to repair the sub, is there a recone available???? Thanks!!!

Alright i'm running 4 Dual 4 ohm speakers aiming for 2 ohms. Theory #1: Wire two subs in parallel separate (yeilds 2ohms a sub). Then wire these together in parallel yeilding 1 ohm total for 2 speakers. Then, wire the other two subs the exact same way yeilding two sets of speakers ran down to 1 ohm per set. Now im running one amp. Then run these two sets together in series on the amp yeilding 2 ohms. Only question, wouldn't this i swap the polarity in one set of the speakers??????? Theory #2: Run each sub in series (yeildin 8 ohms a sub). Then run all of the subs in parallel at the amp. Yeilding 2 ohms. I think this is the correct way!! Im going to finish my box tom evening so please help.. Im almost certain the 2nd way is correct! Thanks!!!!

ha yea my bad.. i forgot about that! i haven't been on here in awhile..

I came across a thread on here where a guy cut slices into one side of a sheet of MDF and then he bent it into a tube! I can no longer find it and i wanted to get a better look at it because i was thinking of using this technique! Does anyone remember where this is? or does anyone remember seeing this? Please post a link to this thread! It would be greatly appreciated!!!!!!!!!! <<<<HAHAHA

Well, how is it calculated? and how is it used to optimize an enclosure for a vehicle?

I see, well do any of you know of some good tutorials about cabin gain and frequency response that i could look into?

Well I think, repeat "I THINK," that there is some factor that affects the sound. Maybe the area inside of the vehicle? This guy i know has a tahoe and whatever he throws in it is loud and sounds good. Now i own a single cab and im havin trouble with getting the sound that i like, even with sealed box's. I know you're gonna say thats its because of box volume but i've put bigger boxs across my bench seat and then i put the same exact sub and box into the back of a car and it was louder. So what i wanna know if there is a way that i can optimize how loud a box/sub will be in a certain cab area by tuning the box in accordance to the cab area. I don't know maybe this makes no sense and i'm an idiot ha i've just always wondered about this!!!!!!!!!!!!! Thanks to anyone who can clear this up!!!!!! ok what ur thinking of is cabin gain and frequency response... every car is different even if they are the same exact car.. they will have a different resonate frequency as well... if u are looking for a well all around sound it is best to have someone make a box taking in to effect ur cabin of ur specific car.. for me a nice ported box is fin between 30- 35 hrz for 15in cvr... i have owned some my self.. i think for what u are looking for you will get away with 32 hrz about 8 cubes after displacement and 112 or so sqin of port... should suit u well i think Ahh i see! I need read up on that! But keep in mind that this box is for a 1997 extended cab chevy 1500 so do you think 32hz will work well?