imhungnurnot

Well I think, repeat "I THINK," that there is some factor that affects the sound. Maybe the area inside of the vehicle? This guy i know has a tahoe and whatever he throws in it is loud and sounds good. Now i own a single cab and im havin trouble with getting the sound that i like, even with sealed box's. I know you're gonna say thats its because of box volume but i've put bigger boxs across my bench seat and then i put the same exact sub and box into the back of a car and it was louder. So what i wanna know if there is a way that i can optimize how loud a box/sub will be in a certain cab area by tuning the box in accordance to the cab area. I don't know maybe this makes no sense and i'm an idiot ha i've just always wondered about this!!!!!!!!!!!!! Thanks to anyone who can clear this up!!!!!!

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Hey, im about to build a box for my buddy and i wanna get around 4 cuft. per sub after all displacements. Again they're two cvr 15's. I was thinkin somewhere around 14 inches of port area per sub per cubic foot of volume and im planning on tuning the box around 35-38 hz. so (14 x 4) + (14 x 4) = 112 inches of port area I've build a ported box for an Fi Q15 and i had it tuned to 33hz but it sounded like it was tuned very low once it was inside of the truck. And i have read that when the box is intstalled in a vehicle the tuning frequency of the box drops about 5-7hz because of the resonant frequency of the vehcile? So im trying to account for this with this box i'm building now by tuning it higher to being with. I just want to check and make sure that im going about this the right way. This is the first time i've ported a box for 2 sub's so i'm curious if i calculated my vent area correctly, and if any of you are wondering i'm using WinISD Pro Alpha to calculate my port length once i decide on port area and tuning frequency. Thanks!

Puntures in the cone, tears in the surround, tears in the spiders, burnt/black sections of tensil lead, burnt/black voice coils, and smell it to see if it smells burnt. Also you can push down on the cone to see if it is relatively tough or soft. If they have been recently played they will be looser. But if they are really loose then something is probably screwed up with the spiders. I mean thats about it.. but if there was anything seriously wrong with these sub's i don't think he would let you look at them. Like he would probably do a deal over the internet so he would be less acountable for sellin you broke ass chit. But since you can look at them and stuff. they sould be fine.. And if they are still hooked up and you can listen to them. Listen for mechanical noises. But i think they'll be fine.

well it all depends on if they were abused. i mean the value of the subs new is 380, probably about 250+ for that amp, and the box materials alone probably cost 40-50 dollars just for a basic box. I think these subs are tough but i guess the only way you can see if they are in good shape is pics of the cone, spider, leads, and coil to look for signs of damage. but if the subs are in good shape it would be a good deal for 400 if you can talk him down. Plus find out how long everything has been used for.

As an enclosure to go inside of the cab. Not a blowthrough.

200 wouldn't be a bad price. but i would try to talk him down to like 170 - 180.. Aren't the sundown 1500ds really expensive? like 450 dollars?

I'm just curious what are the advantages and disadvantages between TL enclosures, 4th order bandpass, and 6th order bandpass enclosures. These are all very new to me!

First off any amp cannot be too powerful for a sub, simply turn down the gain and if you are runnin a more powerful amp than you really need, the amp will not have to work as hard with the lowered gain which ends up benifting your amp in that it will not get as hot. I have two autotek mm amps and they are nice, i acutally owned a super sport 75.4 and it was nice also but i perfered the looks of the mm's. The good thing about autoteks is that they are rated at 12.5 volts so they are underrated definitely not overrated.. But the only thing with the super sports is that they are A/B class and they draw more current than a D class. How much? I'm not totally sure but if you have at least 4 gauge wire in your vehicle i think it will be fine. Others on here should know more about the difference in draw between the D and the A/B classes...

about 50 miles from new orleans. by the time i go down there and back it'll be 20 bucks in gas. but if you pass through lapace off of I-10 i could meet you at like the wal mart or somethin.

did you like them? as far as sound and power..i haven't had many amps at all and i want you're opinion since you've definitely had more experience with amps than i have. I've been lookin for one.. how much for one? or are you sellin them as a pair?

so a bad idea.

Hey, I always wondered if my amp would run at this load so today i loaded it down to see if it would go to proctect mode or get hot. To my surprise it seemed to run it well. What could be some consequences of this that may not be obvious? Clipping? Damaged VC's? Damaged amp or would the fuses blow first? It a one ohm stable D class amp. Thankss

Well if i were to go with #2 then i'd have an ohm load of either 2.67 or 0.67 and i plan to use my Autotek MM1000.1D and i posted awhile back if anyone had ever ran a MM at 0.67 and how'd it do. But unfortunately i never got in touch with anyone that knew anything about the Autotek MM's but i think i could run 3 X's at 2.67 with my Bass EQ (which i assume is bass boost) turned up a hair and with my "subwoofer system" on my Alpine 9855 on system #2 which is suppose to boost the pre amp voltage some. But on the other hand i would with #4 i could buy two D1 10's but the Bl is a lot less with the D1's(9.3) over the D2's(14.1) but i am really not sure if this is a big deal or if i the copper coil or flatwind coil opition will make the reduced Bl not matter.. but back to the point.. i could the D1's at 1ohm and put about 600 to each sub since the amp is rated at 12volts. Or the other option which will be more costly is to buy the D2's and buy another MM1000.1D and run an amp per sub. So at the time.. option #2 looks the best since i wouldn't have to buy subs and i could probably get away with using my MM1000.1D Any feedback on this would be greatly appreciated!!!

Well if i were to go with #2 then i'd have an ohm load of either 2.67 or 0.67 and i plan to use my Autotek MM1000.1D and i posted awhile back if anyone had ever ran a MM at 0.67 and how'd it do. But unfortunately i never got in touch with anyone that knew anything about the Autotek MM's but i think i could run 3 X's at 2.67 with my Bass EQ (which i assume is bass boost) turned up a hair and with my "subwoofer system" on my Alpine 9855 on system #2 which is suppose to boost the pre amp voltage some. But on the other hand i would with #4 i could buy two D1 10's but the Bl is a lot less with the D1's(9.3) over the D2's(14.1) but i am really not sure if this is a big deal or if i the copper coil or flatwind coil opition will make the reduced Bl not matter.. but back to the point.. i could the D1's at 1ohm and put about 600 to each sub since the amp is rated at 12volts. Or the other option which will be more costly is to buy the D2's and buy another MM1000.1D and run an amp per sub. So at the time.. option #2 looks the best since i wouldn't have to buy subs and i could probably get away with using my MM1000.1D

No, really don't. The damn sig isn't the issue.. i just wanted some advice on which setup would be louder and still sound good.

Well I updated my sig after i bought my 3rd but i never had the time to build the box for 3 instead i left my box for 2 behind my bench seat.. But i don't really like how the X's sound behind my seat so i want to get rid of that by adding bucket seats and then building a console box.

I think i can get around 3.5 cuft. I'll be able to know for sure when i install my bucketseats.

I want to build a console box in my single cab truck and im trying to see which would be the best. Setup 1: 2 Fi X 12 D4's ported Setup 2: 3 Fi X 12 D4's sealed Setup 3: 2 Re SE 10 D4's ported or sealed Setup 4: 2 Fi SSD 10 D1's ported or sealed Only reason im considering Setup 3 because I can save about 80 dollars on the subs over Setup 4. And im trying to be louder than a buddy of mine with one RE SX/BL 12 Hybrid ported as a console box.

hahaa. Brace it!!! ha i've actually already threw it away.. it was taking up too much space in my room but it was fun when i had it!

hell yea.. it looks like a freakin mushroom when i play hoods run down by lil wyte!!

Got bored looking at the new sub in the cardboard box from Fi and then i though duck tape and all hell broke loose!!!!

Ha by the way the front of this box looks like a DA*M headboard off a bed!!!! With that said. It also follows the contour of the dash beautifully!!!!!!!

I tore it down and re ported it to be at about 33Hz with 3.5 net volume with 14.75 cubic inches of port area per cubic foot of net volume. Sounds beautiful on the low end but a little harsh on the higher side. Tearing the face of that box off was rather interesting!!! ha By the way the white line of caulk was where the first port was and i took off a little bit of air space due to the smaller port.

A buddy of mine has a Bl 12 in his C/K single cab as a console box. The sub is acutally a SX/BL hybrid but it still knocks. Ha it makes his speedometer jump to about 15 mph when its in park! ha. Hope you have the same success!