xxbobbyfinxx

With the subwoofer cranked all the way up. I don't know if I can turn off just my speakers and leave the subwoofer on.

I have a 2006 Mazda3 and a Kenwood DDX470 headunit. I also have Infinity 6829CF door speakers in my front doors, with stock speakers in the rear. Lastly, I have a Hifonics Brutus 1600.1D amplifier powering two Kicker CVX 10's at 1,200RMS @ 2Ohms. My problem is when I crank up my music, car on or off (but more so when the car is off), the radio will sometimes turn off and restart. My radio goes up to 35 on the volume wheel, with 32 being my self set distortion limit. I'm not sure it's really the song that matters, but I can crank up a song with a lot of bass to 32, and after beating away for 10 seconds or sometimes even less, the radio will just restart and then work normally until it restarts again. To me it seems random. Sometimes it plays the songs fine and one time it would do it every 5 seconds from a heavy bass song, at levels as low as 28. From the little research I did online I am starting to think it's just being "power starved". Someone said 2 ohm speakers are harder to power, but I'm not sure. My only thought of what to do would be just upgrade the wiring to bigger wire. If anybody has any thoughts of helpful input, please share it as this greatly annoys me. It especially sucks when I go to show somebody my system, and the the radio just restarts in front of everybody.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cla61x3woF8 It's recorded from a car via a cellphone, so the quality is kind of garbage. Soundhound couldn't recognize it.

Mine is a daily ground pounder. With my setup, no. This is because I am running a single 15" SSA Zcon. My amplifier over powers my subwoofer. So I will never get to that point of playing balls to the wall currently. I am able to play my Zcon extremely loud for the entirety of the ride though, yes. I'm sure there is. See if you can find a D3400 from XS power, or something similiar. When I only had my stock battery, and my AQ1200, my lights would dimm, even while driving. But it would be extremly fast. When your lights begin to struggle to gain back its brightness, that is when something is not right/safe. Hmm, do you think 2 10's @ 900RMS could be a balls to the wall system? How much were both your batteries combined? And my lights do un-dim rather quickly. I don't think I'm in any serious danger, just the average dimming you normally see. The size of the subwoofers is irrelavent. It all depends on the additional electronics your introducing demands. 2 10s @ 900 watts to be balls to the walls system would have to consist of two SSA Xcons My stock batttery came with the vehicle. I payed 500$ for two D3100s, one was damaged in sipping Thats good for now, but you have to remember, with each dimm, your hurting your vehicle's system. If it's just damaging the alternator, then I'm fine with that seeing as it has a life time warranty. I was told it will still last a couple years with my abuse on it, and that's fine with me because I'll upgrade my battery before that. Damn that battery is expensive!

Mine is a daily ground pounder. With my setup, no. This is because I am running a single 15" SSA Zcon. My amplifier over powers my subwoofer. So I will never get to that point of playing balls to the wall currently. I am able to play my Zcon extremely loud for the entirety of the ride though, yes. I'm sure there is. See if you can find a D3400 from XS power, or something similiar. When I only had my stock battery, and my AQ1200, my lights would dimm, even while driving. But it would be extremly fast. When your lights begin to struggle to gain back its brightness, that is when something is not right/safe. Hmm, do you think 2 10's @ 900RMS could be a balls to the wall system? How much were both your batteries combined? And my lights do un-dim rather quickly. I don't think I'm in any serious danger, just the average dimming you normally see.

I'm not offended, I'm just confused as to why I've never seen anyone with a simple system that barely exceeds stock output have to spend $500 on parts to power their system. That's all. Te advice I think is great I will take. I plan on upgrading my battery and doing the big 3. That all seems reasonable.

Is there a single battery I could use for 900RMS under my hood? What's your Walmart battery capable of?

Also, is yours a daily ground pounder? Could you leave it on balls to the wall while driving?

See you're setup is an example of what I want. I'm sorry, but I don't like being told I need a new alternator and 2 batteries when I have such a simple system. I like the advice, but I know that people with 900RMS somewhere else in the world don't need a 300$ alternator for their $400 system with 900RMS. Good advice was the big 3, as that seems reasonable for my setup, an upgraded battery should follow. But sorry if I'm not ready to buy a new alternator for my barely a setup system. Thanks for your reply though, you have 5K watts with only simple stuff done to your car. I can manage that.

The thing is I don't want to do that much. I only have 900 watts and I feel like I shouldn't have to spend more on car parts that audio equipment. Most alternators I see are 250amps but only 130amps at 800RPM. That's for people in competitions to do. Why must I go through all this for 2 10's?

How much wire do you think I would need to do the upgrade? And will 4 guage be enough for me as well or should I just do 1/0 guage anyways?

Yeah, I just gotta spend the money on 1/0 guage wire and muster up the time to rewire my car. I'll see what I can do.

The battery also costed $260 (XS D3400) which I thought was a little ridiculous since my system is pretty small. I'd do the Big 3 upgrade but frankly buying a battery seems easier than rewiring all that stuff. I just envy the people who get a 2000RMS system and throw it in their trunk with no problems.

If upgrading my main battery is all I need then I'm fine with that. I just don't know how the alternator can charge the battery when I run my bass every second I am driving. I mean the headlights dim which tells you it can't keep up as is, so I always thought another battery would just bandaid the problem. Also, my ground is a very solid ground, straight to the sheet metal at the bottom of my truck.

I think it's the upgraded alternator which is 130 amps.

I have 2 Kicker CVX 10's @ 900RMS. While these replies are all great, they don't answer my question. Adding another battery just adds more juice, but the alternator still can't keep up, so doesn't that just prolong the problem?

More times than not, I see people on Youtube with an extra battery in the trunk instead of having a better alternator. Isn't this just pointless? You can hold more juice, but if you can't replenish it faster than you use it, what's the point of 2 batteries? The only thing I can think of is that it's better because you can charge both batteries when your system isn't playing. Just for me I always have my bass on when I drive so this seems weird to me. EDIT: Another thing that gets me. I have 900RMS and my headlights dim, meaning I may have to replace the alternator and battery which costs hundreds. How do people have 3000RMS and just upgrade their battery? I feel like for the minor system I have I shouldn't have to spend $500 on car parts to make it work.

How much better? I mean, if 25Watts was what I had before and it went to 30 on my deck....and now I can go to 43 which is really loud, how much better can it get? Is 60Watts THAT loud?

Are amplifiers really needed for these speakers? I have coaxial speakers that replaced my factory ones. My factory ones were 25RMS and my new ones are 60RMS in the front, and 65RMS in the back. They crank up really loud and they are in the factory locations with the factory wiring. I think they sound amazing, but I always hear about amplifiers for these mids & highs. Are they needed?

Well cutting a hole doesn't reduce the volume inside the box. It simply means there's a hole. Sure I might have to add an external port, but cutting a hole doesn't reduce volume.

So two of these in my box, with maybe a hole cut at the top as a port would sound really good?

This is my box: http://bit.ly/LL4PnH

Yeah but I have 2 subwoofers in that 1.8 cubes so it's .9 each which isn't a lot. For a ported enclosure I don't think it's enough. It seems like everyone tells me that subs are geared for ported and I feel like the only person running a sealed enclosure. It really sucks. It's not like I picked sealed, it's just the Thunderform box fits perfectly and happens to be sealed. I have two CVX 10s in their now and they sound really nice.

I understand that much, but how and why? What changes about the subwoofer? I just want to know more about High Qts. "How and why" isn't a simple short answer. But basically, they machine the gap a little wider to reduce the motor force some. The change in Qts changes how the subwoofer responds to a given enclosure volume and the enclosure volume needed to achieve a specific Qtc. In a similar alignment (same Qtc) the high Qts option will have slightly more output and slightly more extended low frequency response throughout most of the passband, although it will require a larger enclosure to obtain a given Qtc. If instead of keeping alignment the same we keep the enclosure volume the same, the high Qts option will have a higher Qtc and the associated differences that comes from having a higher Qtc (slightly more peak output, less damping, less mechanical power handling, slightly less low frequency extension, etc). So two of these would be perfect for my 1.8 cubes sealed enclosure in my single cab truck then? Just curious, how would these sound in a ported box? Not something I would do soon, but just wondering.