Quentin Jarrell

She'll be on the fedex truck Friday evening

put your video on the website and facebook.

Some type of chemical reaction in some type of fluid

Somewhere around 3.5 thermally. It's got a stupid amount of BL for it's moving mass. It won't take much to get going.

I personally like Focal solids. They are tiny are never had an issue with one. As long as any amp isnt being over driven youd never hear the difference.

John Levreault builds some if the best amplifiers in the world for home audio And guess what he builds. Yep. D class

Only 4-5K, is that chump change to you guys lol?Everything is relative. Just because something is a lot if money doesn't make it expensive. You don't go to Wolfgang's and say WHOA $100 for a steak? I can go to outback and get one for $10

Yea amps are easy. All I have to do is call Korea and tell them I want x watts at y volts at z ohms and they can whip them out. Everyone and their moms has amps so I'm going to add to the sub line and raw drivers. The trident comes this October. Then a few smaller subs next spring. In the mean time I am working with Morel to OEM a few of their raw drivers to my specs for car audio. And Solen may supply high quality crossover components in case a customer wants passive instead of active.

They will be nearly the same. The 12's are mass loaded to get nearly the same response as the 15's. If mass wasn't added to the cone while keeping the same motor strength and suspension set up they would have fallen off about 1/2 octave higher. On paper anyhow.

The Ethos was designed to get a big ripple around tuning to compensate for cabin gain in the 40's and 50's range. Since the MMS is a bit heavy for the motor (it was made for the 15 Mms) Fo / vas ration is a bit off so to get ripple under 6 DB you'll want to tune between 25 and 30 hz Personal preference is 4-5 feet tuned to 25. This gives 5db ripple at 40hz, F0 at 28.5 and F3 at 24.25hz Or you could stick it in 10 feet tune to 20 with a 3db ripple at 29hz F0 at 22hz and F3 at 17.5 hz

your idea of only and mine are a WEE bit different.Well if you figure a quality off the shelf 3 piece will run 3-4k and a good set of custom built race rims can run up to 25k, 5 k ain't too bad for a 3 piece rim custom built with the exact offset to fit you vehicle and brake setup.

A nice center locking wheels would look nice.

http://www.forgeline.com They'll custom make any combination of whatever you can think of. A custom 3 piece will only set you back 4-5k

That's fine most surrounds don't have any holes at all. Use a screwdriver to clean the holes in the basket before mounting

Mom, sister, and ole lady all keep stub nose 38 specials.

Pics and videos or it didn't happen.

I really honestly didn't want to do much advertising myself until y'all pounded on them for a year or so. I firmly believe in Murphy's law I wanted to make sure all was good first.

Egalitarian talon

I've been slacking bad on getting stickers and stuff out. I nearly have all drivers shipped out do in gonna work in that this week.

The LC1 has uber shitty RCA ends. I always tape them up to keep the rcas from falling out.

I wouldn't worry with a 22. By mom, girlfriend, and sister carry and shoot 38's. All of then under 5'3" 130 lbs.

Good stuff

Holding off on the build for a bit. Morel will be OEM'ing raw drivers for me. So more than likely these tang bangs will need a new home.

You'll want to keep the grease right at 300. After pounding use a towel and press the water out of the chicken. If it's wet the water will evaporate and push the batter off the meat. Stick it in your egg wash and put in the fridge for a bit uncovered to let it dry up a bit. You don't want the wash real runny. Batter, fry without messing with it much besides flipping. If you keep the oil at 300 while cooking it'll be done when it's golden brown. Set it on a wire rack for 5 minutes before cutting or platting. It'll allow the grease to leave the batter and prevent the batter from falling off.

If using a pan to fry a heavy bottomed one preferably cast iron.