Quentin Jarrell

Not bad idle, but otherwise sounds like shit. If it's the hellcat that's why. It's more than likely running a corsa mopar "track exhaust". The boost makes it sound like that.

Gonna be around 4-4.5 feet. I still have to extrapolate parameters.Why is it that your subs are on the very small side as far as enclosure recommendations? almost half what most companies recommend for similar woofers. Just curiosity.Great research and ingenuity Proper engineering and execution. The drivers had to goals. 1st work in small boxes with my desired response, which is number 2. Destroy the lows. Anyone worth their salt can create a driver especially a subwoofer with what they think will be a flat response. This is what we are after but it's not that simple. Back to the small enclosure, very simple physics. You need x amount of force to get x amount of mass moving in x amount of volume. This is simply calculated with FEA programs. Now back on the response part. Everyone gives out specs with boxes that show an awesome flat response on paper. But we don't listen to anything in anechoic chambers. We listen to our sound in vehicles right? And vehicles have cabin gain which gives boost normally in the mid 40's region. To help better explain where I'm going with this here is an analogy. If you install a set of highs and you crank it up and the mids sound noticeably louder than the tweeter you can do two things to fix it. One you can adjust the crossover to remove boost form the tweeter or you can boost the mid to the level of the tweeter to make everything match up. Because we can't adjust the boost down in the bass frequencies caused by transfer function which is normally 5-10 db around 45 hertz we do what we can, which is boost the frequencies from 25-35 hertz. This gets you pretty close to a netted flat response in a vehicle even though on paper my recommended boxes shows a large peak in response around tuning and flat everywhere else. This is the key to why you hear people say it slams both low and high frequencies better than most other drivers they have heard and not just hits the lows of just upper frequencies. Another thing to note is I use large signal parameters to design drivers. To those that have heard my drivers would it shock you to know that the small signal FS of the Ethos 15 is nearly 48 hertz? The most important aspect to my sub design is Pat Turnmire and Enrique Stiles. They are hands down, no questions asked, two of if not the best set of engineers in the world.

Hellcat?

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Price listed on site.

I'm going on Ameritrade and buy 1,000 shares of plastidip. I'm gonna make a killin in dividends by the time a color is picked.

On the track it's not uncommon to have OEM brake fluid boil over. You don't hit the brakes till you hit the apron on the curve. Going from 150 to 50 in 2 seconds will eat the piss out of a brake.

I just changed the brakes on my civic at 65k. The metal thingy magiggy that's let's you know the pads are wore out was rubbing the rotor.

Dirt track once a season, auto cross 2 MAYBE 3 weekends.

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I would have went with slotted for the reasons highlighted. Yea drilled looks cool but newer slotted is just as if not more effective. And they will last longer. A google search of cracked willwood breaks brings up multiple links. Most are on high performance cars but why risk using them if Willwood says yea they are "ok" for a daily driver but use slotted for a performance vehicle because they work better. It's a no brainer.

no disadvantage according to wilwoodI give them 6 months to a year and they'll start cracking. But do check on those washers. The drive pins with flat washers float allowing the hat and roster to expand since they are made from different materials. They will chatter if you don't use cupped washers. We used Willwood for years on our track cars until we upgraded to StopTech.

And before you assemble make sure they sent you cupped washers and not flat. If not the friction ring and hat will rattle their ass off until they get good and hot.

Every set I've bought were. If so they are a mother pucker to torque down. Any reason why you opted for drilled rotors on a DD

Mark did a good job. Now I just need to get some recones up along with some customer build logs and videos and such.

You never know

18's added to the store. Specs will be updated as soon as I receive Klippel information.

They do make one the best outboards.

As of right now I have roughly 10 motors (still have to open them up and make sure they arent broke) left for sale until my fall order comes in. And i'm running slim on dual one ohm coils. I have precision doing a short run of 25 to hold me over. I will (no date set yet) do a presale on both the Ethos and the Trident just so I can get softparts built up so that when the motors arrive I will have a jump start on assembly. I expect the next order available to start shipping end of October.

Last week if you don't mind not having parameters.

Wish my bank account knew it.

DSS HOMEPAGE

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