Quentin Jarrell

looks like an 18 basket might fit

What are you looking to add by a head unit in the dash? Are you just trying to make it easier to install speakers?

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A SIDE NOTE The Magnetar will also be ordered and will not be affected by the purchasing of these drivers. There will however only be 50 drivers purchased initially for the Magnetar.

I'm getting all of my stuff together to place orders for product to be in for the holidays this year but I am still undecided on which route to go on a 1,000 watt sub line. I have two options that I have priced, one is an MMAG driver and the other is an overhung driver just like the Ethos. Either route taken will end up with basically the same t/s parameters but they are pros to both designs. MMAG Primo pros 1.) Will have smaller coil (power handling still the same) which leads to less moving mass increasing efficiency which in turn will make it a tad louder. 2.) The smaller coil make inductance lower in turn creates less distortion (however would more than likely be inaudible anyway) which in turn makes it a tad louder in upper frequencies. 3.) MMAG uses a "diode magnet" between the top plates that helps prevent flux modulation caused by the coil further lowing distortion. 4.) has a heat ring to further dissipate heat minimizing power compression 5.) heat ring also acts as a faraday ring. However Shorting rings outside the coil isn't TOO effective. (the coil is small enough no shorting rings will be used to lower driver cost) 6.) BL remains nearly constant through most of it's stroke even further reducing power compression. Unlike the overhung all of the coil remains saturated in flux throughout nearly all it's stroke. cons 1.) will be a little more expensive than the overhung driver OVERHUNG DRIVER pros 1.) price will be a little lower cons 1.) none really its just a normal overhung driver and doesn't have the advantages of the MMAG. Price. Primo will be somewhere around $280 plus shipping 15 Overhung will be around $240 plus shipping for 15 In case you don't know what the Primo looks like it's something like this.

When both coils are wired up.. doubt it Quentin stated before if he were to rate these thermally it would be closer to 2500wrms per sub so a ~7k on 5k worth of subs is fine. And like Jon said, can't beat the price to performance! The drivers need 1800 watts to reach xmax in their recommended enclosures. The recommended power ratings I give are what are needed to be operate the sub. I'll never give a max "safe" power level. That's kinda like a car manufacturer saying its ok to run your car right below redline all the time.

any one use dollar shave club?

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PM or email me your info. I don't like to collect funds without an invoice as it contains your warranty info on it. Right now lead time is hovering around 15 business days. My last two orders went out in 17 business days.

There are convection cooling methods that work well also. Some that have shown a decrease in compression of over 2 db. And aren't crazy expensive to implement

If you are not keen on cutting a huge hole then a bandpass enclosure would be a good route.

Go to Home Depot and get a few cardboard boxes they are only a buck fifty. I promise you it's a tight fit through the door jams. 3 15s will fit at the window line. I've personally done 3 ethos 15s at the window line in a '10 model.

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Thanks for all the help. I've hired a professional to take care of everything. Once product is sent to them they will begin on everything.

10 degree list is no bueno

I wouldn't treat it as gospel. It's just how I do it.

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I'll try to put this in Laymen's terms as much as possible. I will not go into hand calculating as it is tedious and the tables are too much to copy here. To hand calculate purchase a copy of the Loudspeaker Cookbook. I use the calculator on Car Stereo's site as it is close to doing it by hand. http://www.carstereo.com/help/Articles.cfm?id=27 The reference for the following in formation: Vance Dickason, "Loudspeaker Design Cookbook 7th Edition," Audio Amateur Press,2006. DEFINITIONS. A sealed rear chamber bandpass enclosure is basically a closed-box system with the addition of an acoustic filter in series with the front radiation of the driver. TERMS. fb = tuning frequency of front chamber vent fl = f3 of low frequency rolloff fh = f3 of high frequency rolloff Lv = vent length Qbp = q of bandpass rear chamber R = vent radius S = passband ripple (variation in magnitude response / boost in output) Vf = volume of front chamber Vr = volume of rear chamber Vt = total volume of both chambers WOOFER SELECTION. Drivers with higher Qts normally yield lower f3 rolloffs. If it works well in a sealed box it should work well in 4th order bandpass Using the terms form the cookbook I'll walk through how to use the calculator on carstereo. 1. number of drivers. simple input the number of subs you are using. 2. Isobaric or not? This set up will not be isobaric. 3.enter parameters of the driver. I'll be using the Ethos 15. Qts = .64 Vas = 95.9 liters / 3.386 cubic feet fs = 25.78 4. choose an "s" factor The "s" or ripple factor is a ripple or a peak or valley shown in the passband between the low and high roll off. When you model a sub and the line isn't straight and it dips or is raised this is ripple or "S" factor. A factor of .7 will have a flatter response than .6 and .5. "S" factor is also an indicator of transient response and passband. A "S" factor of .5 will have a degraded transient response than .7 however will have a larger passband, but will normally require a smaller box. As always the triangle applies. You won't have a small box with a large passband and tight response. For now we will choose a S factor of .7 5. choose fl or lower roll off. EVERYONE likes the lows so let's choose 20 hz 6. Hit calculate and see what you get. We get: Vf = 2.718 Vr = 7.123 (wow really big this won't fit) Qbp .78 (normally we would worry about the system Q when modeling by hand. It's the second thing you look at after S factor. Qbp is an indicator of sensitivity and normally you want a sensitivity of zero but the calculator calculates sensitivity automatically so Qbp isn't a biggie to worry about. BUT just like in a sealed box normally a total Q of around .7 is what most people prefer) fb = 31.31 hz passband = 20-49 hz (high f3 is a bit low, id like to at least play up into the 60's) gain = 3.39 (this is pretty good. you don't want to go much higher than 3 db. The higher the sensitivity the less power the sub will need and you might run into mechanical failure if you are not careful) 7. This box will definantly not fit. Since we know "s" factor affects box size let's choose a factor of .6 We recalculate and get the following Vf = 1.997 Vr = 4.451 Qbp .85 fb = 34.21 hz passband = 20-58.51 hz (high f3 is still a bit low) gain = .76 (still in good range ) so, now box is a good bit smaller and will fit in my car BUT I want a higher fH. 8. lets choose a s factor of .5 since we now know "S" factor effects volume and we get: Vf = 1.387 Vr = 2.963 (awsome box is even smaller) Qbp .94 fb = 37.74 hz passband = 20-71.21 hz (high f3 is now where I want it) gain = negative 2.61 (wow this box will be down almost 3 db in its passband ) Since we know "s" factor affects box volume and passband and those are good lets change the low rolloff and see if it'll fix the sensitivity. 9. lets set it to 25hz. I think that'll be low enough and we get: Vf = 1.387 (see we used the same s factor and it remained the same) Vr = 1.814 Qbp .1.08 fb = 43.65 hz passband = 25-76.21 hz (high f3 is a bit high but I'll use the filter on the amp to bring this down a bit. gain = 3.21 This looks like it'll be the best compromise. Small enough box to fit in my car, passband is pretty good for the sub stage, and the gain is not too high that i'm gonna have to worry about damaging my sub.

I guess I need to call Vance and order a few hundred cookbooks and start giving them out for free with orders.

If you can read these this will explain everything on that calculator. It's a pain in the ass to do it by hand so I use the calculator to get a volume that'll work and double check it by hand.

the 5th one is nice. The hard part is it has to look good on a huge banner, on a small computer window, and in print. I don't know. I think simple is better?

give me a minute I'll up load some pics for you to read

I'm sis robed to adobe's cloud so I have access to their entire deal. Deviant art has some nice stuff also.

The font on the last one is really nice. Really legible even when small. Looks like it would monogram well also.