Quentin Jarrell

My honest opinion would be to get a cut sheet off the SSA store link for icon or xcon boxes. By the time you fool around with fixing what you have it would be much easier to start over with a design you know is correct. Or get "Alton" to come up with one that better fits your max deminsions.

If the length is 18 then it is tuned ~25 hertz. You have turned the ports into 2 1/2 wide ports with them so close to the back of the box. I can't model the subs but that is a bit low and will be causing a loss of output.

I have very little faith on the actual enclosure specs. Post all the dimensions of the enclosure.

I agree, but alas, no money. Hell, I still have to get the Gcon in something. I do have a SQ driver (and I mean SQ) that will need an unbiased 3rd party analysis done. It will be a beta version however. Motor reaches 20% distortion at ~25mm and the suspension hits 50% compliance at ~20mm.

I'm waiting on confirmation on final pricing of having them assembled. I know I can sell them for $350 shipped. However it might be a bit cheaper. Big brand industry standard is 35 points of margin and that is where I'll stay at. So if the complete package costs a few dollars less then the pricing will reflect that. I'm 95 percent certain the 12 will be $325-$350 and the 15 about $20 more.

You are correct on all assumptions. Cheap meter will be fine you are only trying to find a grounded component an only looking for a beep not any actual figure. Make sure the harness is unhooked from the radio and only probe the speaker wires. You don't want to blow any power fuses. I personally use a Blue Point meter. They run about $200-$250 bucks. The biggest problem is Fi ding good leads with no resistance. With daily use that can be problematic as they like like fail. Even the good blue point and fluke leads.

Had company and took the day off yesterday to do projects. Perhaps glad I haven't seen themNew amps rated at zero distortion per a DD-1http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/forum/topic/59856-what-were-about/?p=1009287I thought I'd put them on the spot, but they just ignored my question altogether. In a way I can understand. People here have knowledge or will at least try to find a knowledgeable source to help them understand. I go to the other forum and post actual Klippel information and I get responses like "you need to send one to joe blow to test and make cool videos". I guess you just got to cater to the different people at different places. It takes too much time and money to teach people otherwise. Although it only costs 150 bucks for Audio Precision to test an amp.

Wow they really use impedance rise as a marketing ploy? But they did work before you hit the bump. More than likely you have a short some where. If a speaker is bad they can even ground out by their mounting flanges. If the headunit still doesn't work. Unhook the radio harness. Set ur DMM to continuity. Touch one lead to a speaker wire at the harness and the other to ground. If you have a short to ground the DMM will beep. If so leave the DMM on until you find the source of the problem.

Had company and took the day off yesterday to do projects. Perhaps glad I haven't seen themNew amps rated at zero distortion per a DD-1

I'm pretty humble so ill say parts and excursion wise they aren't any different than any other driver rated for 32mm xmax as I use the same parts from the same source as nearly every other reputable manufacturer. There are only two things different with this driver 1st the price. They will be priced at ~$350 SHIPPED. 2nd they are specifically designed to work in small enclosures. The 12 in 1.5 cft ported and the 15 in 3cft ported. These volumes tuned to 32 hertz produce the lowest rolloff with only a slight ripple gain in response.

I'll put in my 2 cents since this is not a specific manufacturers forum. Both drivers have close enough mechanical parameters that they would behave the same nearly the same in the same box. Both drivers have the same motor force 288.75 for the sp4 and 288 for the evil. Yes the evil has more BL due to more "L" length in coil wire. However this also increases resistance which has to be taken into account. However the Evil has a slightly higher SPL rating .2 increase. Due to the slightly better Mms weight and motor force ratio due to the 10 gram lighter moving mass. So in a world on paper the Evil would be ever so slightly louder in an enclosure where the drivers would reach xmax at 3,000 watts. However in an alignment that took 3,250 watts to reach xmax the Evil would have an ever so slightly more advantage being the sp4 could not displace as much air due to not hitting xmax. However it would not be enough to be audiblly different due to the minute difference. So as a customer in my opinion it comes down to one thing. Fi prides itself in being a DIY company. It expects its customers to be able to take the info given and help themselves in enjoying the product. Which in return allows for a less expensive product. SSA on the other hand is a dealer network company and prides itself in bring able to work hand in hand and guide the customer. This of course take time and time is money. So there comes into play the slightly higher costs. So it comes down to what type of customer you are. Are you the one that can handle the expected wait time (you are told prior to purchasing) and can use the product at a DIY'er or do you need daily updates on product status and enclosure recommendations and install help.

In laymen's terms an amp amplifies the signal going in to it. Your headunit may put out 2 volts where a line driver may put out 6 volts. Lets just say the amp is capable of amplifying that signal 10 times. Now per the works of Mr Ohm voltage times the current going though a resistor creates power. The resistance of the resistor (speaker in this case) determines current flow. (Not going into that on this explanation) Now a one ohm speaker will always pull the same amount of current (not getting into inductance not going there here). Lets just pick a easy rhetorical number and say a one ohm speaker will allow 10 amps to go through it. Now the amp hooked to the radio turns that 2 volt signal to 20 volts coupled with the current flow of the one ohm speaker you get 200 watts. Now the same amp hooked to the line driver turns that 6 volt signal to 60 volts coupled with the current flow of the speaker you get 600 watts. But all amps have "gain adjustments". This adjustment is there to compensate for the voltage coming from your source. Most amps will work from say .5 volts up to 10 volts. So you just adjust it so the amp puts out rated power. Which is directly related to the voltage it puts out and the resistance of the speaker. Bc a 1 ohm speaker will allow more current than a two ohm speaker the amp doesn't have to multiply that voltage as much to achieve the same output power. (Remember voltage x current = power) Now amps can only multiply that signal so many times. So if the amp will only put out 600 watts at one ohm (the 60volts x the 10 amps) but you want 1,000 watts to ur one ohm speaker the I ly way to get there is to increase voltage. So you use the line driver to bump the input voltage to 10 volts which the amp multiples to 100 volts. However the amp can't accurately handle 100 volts (akind to hooking a 110 volt toaster to 220 outlet) so it puts out clipped signals or could be destroyed. So, to answer the question a line driver is only needed when your input voltage is so low that it falls below the range of the amps "Gain adjustment". Which is normally so low that a line driver is not needed.

Let me have a go at one.. I got 4 5500ds i can strap on one, lol.. But really, stiff suspension is a plus for my overpowering ass. No, overly stiff suspension that's not mated well to the rest of the driver = a really fucked up response curve

And the suspension

I do believe it's the stiff ass suspension 5 minutes of free air and the parameters have already fallen by half per the DATS. Looking pretty good compared to my parameters modeled by FEA.

since all the kiddies like videos, here is the Ethos 15 on ~1,750 watts. Mind the jerry rigged set up. I don't currently have a large enough battery supply in my shop to run my power convertor on a large amount of power.

Yea. I think it's just the stuff suspension. It's 20,000 grams at 10mm. In other words it takes 53 pounds to move it 10mm one way.

They say Uuuuuuuhhhhhhhhh. U doing something wrong. I say no pimpin Pat Turnmire Klippeled this bitch. I know what the parameters are They say uuuuuuuuuuuuhhhhhh weeellllllll maybe you can send it in and we can look at it.

I'd be humble and say I ain't got a clue but I can find out. On that note does anyone have any experience with DATS? It must have some type of curve it's programmed to work in. It works perfect on smaller drivers. But when I use it to test the Ethos I get some crazy ass numbers. Like a VAS of 15 liters, Mmd of 240grams (I physically weighed the half mass to 350) and a Mms of 480. The way it's calculating Mms and Mmd clearly shows it not acting right.

You could if you wanted to however the terminals accept 8 gauge wire. Unless you are wrapping your speaker wire around the car it should be able to handle the current of 1,500-2,000 watts just fine. If direct leads were wanted XS Power would be used. Another option would be to leave the leads unsoldered and you could add your preference of wire. Personally if I was going the route of direct leads I would want it to be one single wrie from the amp to the sub. Not two feet of lead off the sub and then have to add another piece to reach the amp. Also the tensil leads per coil are rated for 100 amps.

Size comparison. IA LI 15 on left.

Sean must be on vacation. Can't wait to see his comments on some of these new products testing and reviews.

Or call Tricia at Incriminator, spend 20 bucks and get a glue kit specifically designed for speakers. Normally they ship the same day if you call in the morning.

A production motor was air mailed to me so I coned it to a 15 and will be breaking it in over the next week to send out for klippel testing and power confirmation. I tested it with a DATS system and got some crazy numbers that just aren't physically possible so after it's broke in I'll just do the measurements by hand. I'm happy with it however the chrome is not as dark as I was expecting (I wanted black chrome) but it's much more durable than the black epoxy paint that was on the original sample. The below pics are a 15 and it weighs 61 pounds for those of you planning on 8 of these in a Scion. No cone shots as I just used plain dust caps. My custom tooled caps won't be in until next week.

Skip shift is for conserving fuel. Don't know about the chevy but in a viper if you are light on the throttle and shift out of first you can't go into 2nd it skips over to fourth. On the viper and must be on the chevy as well you have a cats at the collector and a second cat farther back. The second set isn't needed for engine management so in most cat backs they are removed and the o2 sensors are just turned off to keep the computer from throwing a code.