Quentin Jarrell

M5 and all the other SQ snobs reply to my thread. http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/forum/topic/62644-dsps-and-real-amplifiers/

It's time to start working on amps for future availability so I need to figure out what features that need to go into the product so I can have samples developed. The amp part is easy, it just needs to amplify input signal. We are gonna let a DSP do all the hard work. This means NO crossover networks in my amps. Only a knob for gain matching. But the question is what features do we really need in the DSP? NOTE: I HAVE A NDA WITH MY SUPPLIER. I CAN NOT AND WILL NOT DUE TO LEGAL PURPOSES GIVE ANY HINT TO WHAT SUPPLIER WILL BUILD MY DSP. DO NOT ASK So, below are a few features I think it needs. Give your input let me know what else would be necessary or beneficial. 1) PEQ or graphic. I'm 99.999999999 percent sure PEQ. A mic will be needed so it'll be a learning curve for most but I think it's worth it. 2)time alignment of course 3)ability to auto eq with available third party software 4)unbalanced input / output (balanced would be cool but damn near nothing else would be and I'm told running non balanced on a balanced DSP can cause issues) 5)analog / RCA inputs and outputs 6) calibrated mic to come with DSP 7) 3 way with sub capable 8) low voltage input for tablet sources, but what type plug?

5 cft net per driver tuned to 30 hz.

after 2 hours of screwing around with placement its starting to look like a kick panel. tried to get all drivers as close together as possible.

Dem poor doors

3 cft net tuned to 32

I'd recommend 3,500. My team members have had success with B2 and American Bass. Check out Swifts f250 build log in the build log section. He is using a newer companies amp that also has decent pricing.

Better steel some springs off a 3500

Nope. Waiting on a few things.

They better tighten up. About 40 drivers on preorder. If it keeps up I'm gonna have to make another order before the order comes in just to have enough stock.

dropped my router and broke the base so the baffle is a little rough but It'll be fine after all said and done.

Is it a coincidence that Obama is in town the same time a two mile long train full of tanks is passing through town headed west?

Figured I'd do the kicks first so I can have some tunes while I hack up the doors. Three layers of 2 oz mat. Should be plenty string enough. Notice I wet out well past my expected trim line. This ensures consistent thickness at the edges and that the panel will rest nicely in the vehicle. I normally wet my mat before laying it but I'm using some cheap resin and wasn't sure of the cure rate so I did it in the vehicle while making sure I didnt over wet the mat. Too much resin can weaken the laminate. Also notice I used FULL sheets of mat. NEVER cut up your mat unless absolutely necessary.

That's fucked up. Like seriously fucked up. J Faith didn't fuck up those buildings. Religion did.

It wouldn't play as low.

beginnings of the baffles

I have two 15's in a sealed test box in a 2010 civic. Waiting on my Singer alt.

I'm waiting for it to be dropped in a grand Cherokee.

Here you go. You can get it up to 8 pounds per square foot. http://www.santarosaleadproducts.com/lead_sheet.htm

Have no need for a jig saw. The plastic is only 1/8 thick. Not cutting it on any specific angle.

^

What did the rubber glue look like? I sent some to Jon and it hardened in the bottle.

As always gonna be a little more involved than I wanted. The sharpie outline is where I'm gonna wind up cutting.

Uh oh