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mobileaudiophiles

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  1. If your box will be rather close to your hatch, I would do sub up port up. If your box will have at least 6 inches or so (depending on your port area) of space between it and your hatch, I would do sub up port back. Generally in SUVs sub up port back is considered standard, but I would not want the hatch to mess with the port tuning by being too close. However, some people would disagree with me and say that the closer the port to the hatch the better because it will have more "loading". To me, that just means that your hatch will rattle like crazy because it is blocking the port, giving the illusion of being louder. Just my two cents.
  2. I would like to see two 15s in a trunk in ANY quarter wave enclosure (tapered horn, transmission line, or expanding horn). A tapered horn would be the most likely candidate due to being the smallest of the three. GL
  3. Cannot see anything written on the coil. Is there any way that I can measure something to tell for sure? edit: What is the performance difference between the old btl and the new bl? Also, I see a recone kit on the fi site for a double stacked btl, so why would I need a bl recone?
  4. Please do explain why tuning to 25hz in a car is a waste? I tune most of my daily driver boxes in the upper twenties and my clients are all very pleased. JL Audio even tunes some of their factory enclosures to 25hz. Some people actually want to listen to music with their subwoofers...
  5. I am planning on powering it with a sundown saz3000d, and wish I knew what model it was in case it needs a recone soon Any opinions?

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