onebadmonte

Thanks. Most of my efforts have focused on packaging and strength. I haven't really put much though on corrosion prevention. I can imagine the aluminum bars will eventually have some of that white flakey stuff. In how long, I don't know. I can anodize the bars black and just sand the area where the bars electrically contact the batteries. What's your take? WWouthopuD? One step at a time. That's all it takes.

Haha, classic Fi. Showing up unannounced, but ready to party. Pics or ban.

Cool story bro. No sarcasm. It was a nice read with a moderate amount of nut hugging. Okay, that was a little sarcastic at the end there. Congrats on your runs. I've dabbled in competing and can relate to your excitement.

I'm going to have to go on a diet just to balance out all the weight I'm adding on to the Suburban. The tools I have here at home are so so. The tools at work are what make dreams come true. Sweet, when ever you get a chance shoot a link via PM. I'd like to check them out. Thanks.

This was a good Monday. Work went by smoothly. Picked up the little ones, no hassles there. Got my chores done with time to spare. How about a little progress? Nothing major today, just made some battery links. Before going too far I figured I do some work in the virtual world. This is what I came up with. Bare with me as it's a little incomplete since I don't have the cables modeled up. I'll get those in soon. Here we go. Not only do I have a little band saw, I've also got a little drill press. I picked up a 12ft bar of 6061-T6 Aluminum locally. It measures 3/8" by 1-1/2", this should be enough to get the job done. I used work's bad a$$ cold saw to make short work of cutting the bar down to the strips I needed. Starting off small here with a 1/8" pilot hole. Now were cooking. Stepped it up to a 13/32" drill. The studs on the batteries are 3/8-16 so the 13/32" drill will give me a little wiggle room. Ahhh, what a stringy mess. The details are where it's at fellas. Take a little pride in what you do and give the little extra effort to debur your holes with a good quality counter sink. Nuff said. OMG! Look at what the cat coughed up. o_o Look at that, just like in the computer.

Opps. Didn't pay attention to you being dead set on the 360.3, my bad. I got the MS8 and couldn't be happier. I love the fact that I can setup multiple seating positions and toggle between them for demos. The Logic7 processing aint too shabby either. Cool beans wanting to learn and stuff. Cross over points and time delay go hand in hand from what I hear. No easy feat to master, so good luck. As for speaker selection. If you're hesitant about doing a full ranger and mid-bass you can go the route of a nice co-ax and mid-bass. That's what I did, and it seems to be working pretty well if I don't say so myself. I say go with something that has a nice silk dome tweeter. JL and Image Dynamics have some nice ones. If you're like me and want to go the cheap route there's Powerbass.

Thanks. Okay, I get now. Duh, me thinking they were solid mounts. That's pretty interesting. So they work well for you huh? Seems cheaper than airbags. Thanks, I'll check them out. Thanks bro. I'm hoping to one day finish this rack and actually move on and install a stereo in this car.

Your ass dragging Burb's new best friend. Holy smokes, solid mounts? Are you serious? Maybe if I was running big balloon tires like 44's on 15" rims or something. I'd be like those "Big Red" three-wheelers Honda use to make.

Burn all the money you've got on a Audison BitOne. Don't know how to tune? Burn all the money you've got on a JBL MS8. Welcome to SQ heaven. [/thread]

Bwahahaha, grow some muscles. Good one. As for weight. Each of those batteries is 65lbs. 8 batteries with the racks puts us at around 570lbs. Add another 200lbs for the box and subs. The icing on the cake is the 60lbs for the amp. Final weight, around 830lbs. If I end up with a case of dragging a$$ I'll try some coils off a 3/4 ton Suburban. If that doesn't work, airbags.

Thanks fellas. Sorry for slow goings. Things seem to be coming back on track, fingers crossed. I got my battery hold-downs cut and now I've got to bend them. Easier said than done, but here is the catch, they're cut from 1/4" steel. Here goes: Here is a pic of the hold downs and my weenie vise. Here's the part in the vise ready for bending. If you haven't guessed by now it's the little tangs that need bending. Haha, had you going, you thought I was going to use the hammer for this one. It's the power of leverage that will be utilized for this one. Yes, my arms are that effing hairy. Bam, tang bent. It was easier said than done. BTW That orange tube is from a bottle jack. Here's a close up of the little f*cker. So why the tang to begin with you ask? Well, I figure I could use a little something to keep the batteries spaced away from rubbing on the threaded rod and each other. This seemed like a most elegant solution. Here is the hold down in place. The whole shebang. Solid. The whole bunch together for a family portrait. More on the way.

Interesting. Is this impedance curve you speak of, one that is derived from using a device like the woofer tester. Or is it derived from measuring under full power? I once attempted to "clamp my amps" and verify output with an off the shelf AC clamp meter and a multi-meter. I measure for amperage at the positive wire going to the sub and AC voltage at the sub terminals. I measured frequencies at 5Hz increments from 25Hz to 65Hz. Using the magic of Ohms law I calculated watts and ohms with amps and volts. By doing so I inherently ended up with a set of impedance, or is it resistance, values for each frequency tested. Here is a link to what I did My link Can the off the shelf AC clamp meter be an accepted tool to measure amperage at various frequencies? If so, how can we prove it?

50-400Hz is cool, but my subs are low-passed at 60Hz. I'm interested in a meter that will measure from let's say 10Hz and up. Any thoughts on such a clamp meter or is this o-scope territory? I'm not sure if I'm getting side tracked asking about clamp meters so I'll ask this: How do you measure impedance?

The real deal is measuring. From what I've been told, over the counter clamp meters for measuring amperage are only good at 60Hz. Any tips for how to measure amperage at various frequencies?

Dang it. Makes me want to get one of each available Fi subs.

Effing sweet man. I'm armed now. Internet watch out. Muahahahahah!

Nice ones J. You'll have to show me how you get that border and text around pic some time. Here is one I think you'll enjoy. "You are entering a world of pain."

I don't know about that one. The manual that came with my warhorse calls for eight, 800CCA batteries and two 200amp alts. That's only for 10K watts. I've spoken with Chris at Missing Link Audio, he told me you need about 3 to 4 batteries per HO alt. I'm not sure on the math to calculate how much battery you need for alternators. One thing I do know is that Hummer that Chris has is plenty effing loud. I've experienced it in person. If he says that's what it takes who am I to argue.

Alright fellas. Here is the pic. Quote the pic and give us your best funny caption to go with it. Get creative, go all out, extra points for those who alter the pic. Obscene material will be reported to mods. Play nice fellas. Best quote gets the honor of being the wiener. For those who don't know this is Secretary of Transportation Ray La Hood. Lets play. "Don't make me use this."

No problems.

My bad. Got my info from these goons: My goons

I got some hardware in and as luck my have it, I actually had the energy to get some work done. Enough with the yapping, now for some pics. Looky, looky here. Hardware from my favorite source. What do we have here? Wood insert and rivnuts in 8-32, 10-32 and 1/4-20. Also some 1/2-13 nuts, bolts, washers, and lock washer. Those big bolts are 3/4-11. Heavy duty. With the hardware in I put the battery rack base and hangers together. Before getting the rack in place I had to prep the spare tire are. Here you can see the line I have drawn across the spare tire hanger sheet metal. I'll be taking off everything below the line on both sides. Here is a shot of the aftermath. Here the first rack is in place. Pic is looking in towards the center from the passenger side. Here I am verifying my measurements. I've got just over half an inch between the cross-member and the top of the studs on the batteries. Here is looking at the rack from the drivers side. Before I could get the second rack in I had to hack off some the the receiver hitch. Another classic jigsaw hack job by yours truly. A little close up. Here you can gauge how much I took off by comparing the close side to the far side. Now the opposite side. That jigsaw is one bad mofo. Ahhh, the carnage. That stuff was every bit of a quarter inch thick. Those $2 jigsaw blades from Wally's Mart took'em like a champ. Moment of truth. I've got a little over an inch between the receiver hitch and the rack. Lined up good with the factory opening in the frame. I meant to do that. This is the drivers side frame rail Now the passenger side frame rail One last shot from the drivers side looking up towards the center. Time for bed. I was a productive day.

1 mil = .002inches therefore 60 mils = .120inches. Now that's special

Saw it else where, thought I'd share for all the South Tx members here. StreetSPL is having there 1st event in Texas on March 20th in San Antonio Audio Express 1132 Rayburn Drive San Antonio, TX 78221 Point Values: 1X Cost $20 Event will run from noon-5pm StreetSPL is a music only format and for more info on classes and rules check out StreetSPL This will be the 1st of many event in the San Antonio, Houston area Anybody going?

This thread has turned out lovely. It's going to look great next to my daughter's art work on the fridge.