onebadmonte

Fawk. Double post FTL. Wonk Wonk Wonk.

What's up planet earth? After a short hiatus, an impromptu toilet swap, I'm back. The battery rack is at the welder's and I'm wait for some machine time to cut the hangers. For the time being I started work on the doors and figuring out a way to shoehorn a pair of 7" Mpyre Mid-Basses in the factory location behind the factory grills. Can it be done? Watch and be amazed. Le door panel with le mids: Le area to be hacked out: We, those were the tool used, classic onebadmonte hack job Another test fit. I used the factory grill and the mids to make a cardboard template. I transfer the template shape some MDF. Upon further review I decieded to make a multi level baffle to fit the drivers. Here are all the baffle pieces roughed out with le wienie bandsaw. Le test fit of the baffle in le door with le door panel in place. Here I'm making sure le grill fits. The moment everyone's been waiting for. How the hell do the drivers fit? Here you go. Still got a ways to go, but I have an idea of how I'm going to get it all to work. Stay tuned. BTW, sorry for the french accent (le here and le there) I was eating some french fries while I was writing this.

From the looks of them they are wireless infrared headphones. Nifty, I wonder how well they work. All the ones that I have ever used have had some sort of interference issue no matter how close I get them the to sensor.

The voice of reason has spoken. Thank you for your wisdom, oh mighty voice. I shall continue my voyage with a sample request. My findings shall be posted here for all to see. All hail the mighty voice of reason. (sorry bro I'm having a weird morning. thanks for the insight.)

If the stuff comes on a roll is that a dead give away that it's asphalt based? Recently a new player has come on the market claiming butyl based sound deadener. Audio Technix is the place. Their claim is a 60mil thick sound deadener / 4mil aluminum with butyl adhesive, Their introductory offer seems good, but their stuff comes on a roll. Should I stay away? Thanks.

Gracias (Thanks)

Here we go fellas, part two, The final assembly of the battery rack. Here I'm prepping the center rails putting some 9/16" holes at the ends. A little story about this drill press. Pops got it for free from a shop he used to work at. It sat in the garage for 20 years unused. Pops said it needed a new motor, he let me have it. Just for laughs I plugged it in. Snap, it works. Let Pops know, now he needs a drill press. Here I'm laying out the carriage bolt pad centers. I did two angle irons at a time to make sure they line up properly. Here is a close-up so you can see my alignment marks. I also put an indicator at the end of the angle iron to make sure I don't mix them up. This is the center section tack welded together. Here I am laying out the alignment marks for the center section on the battery base. To keep things simple I added up my measurements to I can use a ruler and mark everything in one shot. The finished frames ready to be welded. A couple test fit shots.

Real life progress, yay. I continued work on the battery rack again today. I made the carriage bolt pads. I started off with 4" x 2", 1/8" thick steel strip. I will be putting a square hole in the center of this piece. Here's how I did it. The workpiece, trimmed and ready for drilling. I used work's bada$$ Bridgeport Mill and vise setup to put a 1/4" pilot hole first I followed that up with a 1/2" drill Here I verified the size of the square on the carriage bolt. Get your 3-D glasses on. Here I scribed out the square that I'll cut out. Just wait till you get a load of how I pull this off. That's right, an effing jigsaw. Dios mio! (My goodness!) What a hack job. Not to worry I can fix it. A little file action, and presto change-o, square hole. Test fit. Finished product. Stay tuned for part two of this update.

Groovy basket. Looks like the love child of the standard 4 spoke basket and the TC sounds basket.

Thanks fellas. Still got a ton of work to do, but definitely looking forward to hearing the results.

Thanks for noticing.

Small signs of progress. I updated the battery rack CAD a bit. I think this is going to work better than what I had before. Here is a shot from the top. I added the battery hold downs, and detailed the whole assembly with some hardware. From the bottom looking up. Here is a shot of the hanger from the bottom up. You can see some of the hardware I'll be using. One last one of the hanger from the top down. Now some progress in the real world. This one is me testing the strength of the angle irons that I'll be using. My cutting rig. The rack coming together. This is how I handled the corners. I tacked them together, I'll have a friend with a bigger welder finish them off. Plus he's a better welder than me. o_o

voted

Awe, come on man. Get up and help. Don't just sit there and watch the train wreck.

Thanks. I hope so, we're talking just over 550lbs worth of batteries.

Thanks. The batteries will assemble onto the rack, then the whole setup will be lifted into place and secured onto the frame with the mentioned bolts. I went with bolt in for serviceability. Once it's all bolted together the batteries will not come out.

Hey, what's up everybody? So, I've got this build going: My Build I'm working on the battery rack and would like to get some thoughts on this design I've got. I've changed it up a little bit from what I had in my build. Let me know what you think, what you'd change, maybe what some of you have done or are doing now. Now some pics: Here is deal. Chevy Suburban with the batteries between the frame rails where the spare tire would be. Here we are looking down on the setup. Looking from the bottom up. Here is a close up of the hanger. The tangerine pieces are 1/4" plate. The gray angles are 1-1/2" x 1-1/2" by 1/8" thick angle irons. The hangers are held in place to the frame rails with two 1/2" bolts on the side and a 3/4 bolt through the bottom of the frame rail. Here is a close up from the bottom up. The hangers attach to the bottom of the battery rack with four 1/2" bolts per side. Let me know what you guys think.

voted.

We'll work something out once it's all done up and fitting right.

Why thank you, and a happy valentine's to you too. o_o

Hey everybody! Not much got done in the real world today, but tons got done virtually. Hmm, that second part didn't come out quite right..... Any who, here is a little CAD action, and I ain't talking about cardboard and duct tape here. Here is a 3-D CAD model of a deka 9a31 Frame rails. Really! Here we go. Starting to make sense? Battery tray anyone? Tangerine supports? WTF? The semi-complete assembly. How about some batteries to complete the picture. A look from the bottom up. Chime in now or forever hold your piece.

Thanks. A little secret, I built the box before I started the build log. Don't tell anyone. Nuts huh? Audiosavings.com was dang near giving them away. I couldn't resist. You got to come over and check it out. I'd have to cut and splice the wire if I ever need the sub out for a re-cone. As for the port being angled it's actually a back loaded horn design. Thanks. Sure. Drop a pm sometime. Thanks LOL Bahahaha! Wife said the exact same thing when she saw it.

I've seen people do pretty good with white ports. Those red ports are pretty mean as well. I'm not sure how my grey port will do. o_o I guess I'll have to rely on 10 kilo-watts to pick up the rest of the slack.

Glad to here you're doing better. Can't wait to hear the new Lincoln.