kryptonitewhite

well I certainly loved looking at your build for the build alone, but being a man of controversey myself, I sure liked that touch as well very very nice, clean, great numbers, and most of all... despite what so many were trying to say, you like it and thats what matters most KW

well Ill start with sending the amp back that was very hard to turn the gains on... it was blown! No wonder I had so much trouble trying to get it to match the other 3. Once I get it back i think i will just crawl back in there every once in a while, disconnect the subs, and re-gain match and write the numbers down. After a few times of that over a few days/weeks to see if and how much they are re-adjusting, Ill see if anything needs done at all. To be honest, i dont know if there was a problem with the gains moving at all or not in the first place. I never gain matched them in the beginning. For the longest time I had the gains OFF, all the way down, and for some soings I had the deck sub level set to 0 as well... the benefit of seriouse headroom. As the subs broke in, though, I found the HU level slowly creeping up and up till I had it maxed at 15 for some tracks. So I brought them all to 1/3rd gain. Then 1/2. Then about 3/4 where they sit now. I know thats not the right way to do it, but see thats just it...I cant and wont do anything the "right way"

cuz it's always one thing after another, cuz when I first got the van and had to replace the window motor right away and I thought to myself "now watch, the other motor will go out".. close enough the new motor went bad and I had to cut the false door apart to warranty it. Then I think, just wait... Well the window must have separate from the track, Brandy was at work,text me, said she was putting the window up and there was a loud noise and it wont go up. So I am doing like before and looking up old door pics to see where I need to cut in and hope to god I can fix this ****. Keep in mind with those window flex videos, I was 1 amp down therefor running with 1 sub acting like a PR, and this wood rail now lined with auto carpet to make it even tighter supports the window...prolly why the thing broke off the rail...too much pressure up and down. cop picture happens to be in the mix, the day I was working on the doors (before I even had the subs in or wall built) they came over cuz apparently my front stage was even too loud, this was even before I had the crossover working so i couldnt have it all that loud I'm gonna have toi cut 2 squares where they are in the bottom to get to the screws hopefully

yes'sir, I think thats most of the fun.. keep them guessing, even if "it" is stupid

Thank you very much Tech. I try to keep honest and admit the experiments and ideas that dont work as well as cram the ones that do down everyones throat. The IB3s would have worked great in the initial 110 cubic feet tuned 1/2 octave lower... the did not in the final enclosure. I admit that. I thought I would only use 10% of my power 90% of the time, boy was I WAY wrong on that. Ive had nothing but problems because I didnt budget in a 2nd larger alternator and wire, brackets, and belt to run it. I learned with the foam: NOT to not do it, screw everyone that hates on the foam, I learned to only do a few cans in one spot at a time and let it set for at least a day... not 15 cans at a time and let them sit for an hour. Duct tape? PL PRO? I am still a white trash redneck i guess, windows up you cant tell there is violence inside. Roll them down and my windows flex three times further than I can by hand. But hey, it's quiet Again, thank you TechSys!

rechecked the amp to make sure, then the fun began. Had to pull amp 1 out of the way, it wouldnt fit with the 2x4 that the 2nd KX850.4 mounts to, had to use the jig saw to cut the end off. Busted out the dry vac, suddenly it bogged down and started stinkin and the lights were dimming...blew the motor. Grabbed the vaccum, it wasnt sucking. Emptied it, tried again, still didnt suck. Pulled amp 1, then amp 2, then put amp 1 into amp 2's place. Before 2x4 in the way jig saw lugging the vaccume in, process repeat to empty it amp 1 removed looks naked now it looks really naked made me feel kinda weird keep tryin to get them KX850.4s to make babys, none have fallen out yet amp porn... they dont mind the disgusting part. if you dont know what youre seeing, I wont tell you ah, if they smoked.... amp 1, you are now amp 2. back to audiopipe you must go. dont you fuck with me and tell them any lies, you are a strait warranty issue. hear me?

on a few of these forums, the ones which I refer to the sexy girls that are always there to politely put me in my place like Jackie did, I need to mention, as I know this is one of the things you will jump on: The other warranty issue was with the kid that bought one of the original 4 amps from me, he is apparently even worse at this than I am, he hooked his wires up backwards and cooked his. This is my first issue with these since I got them over a year ago....yes, despite them being mounted inside my enclosure, and yes...despite me being the one to install it in this terrible awful install. KW: that guy

so theres a pretty good chance that the REW sweeps corroborated what i was saying about the substage FR curve for a good reason, as well as a loss of output, more current drop than should have been, and a few times a touch of stinky: same reason that two amps before gain match were 17.3V-17.9V, one was almost 15V...a bit off, but one was 1/2 at 9.8V... prolly blew a channel on one amp. I havent heard back from [email protected] so like last time, I contacted audiopipe myself. Jackie knows her shit. I mis spoke when she said "so you blew a channel on it?" and I said "no, it's a monoblock Im running bridged" and she said " no its two 1500s" and I said "yes two 1500s strapped". OOPS! My shit comes out wrong all the time, but it was pretty hott havin a female put me in my place... then again that happens on the forums every day wink wink. So she says if its within 12 months I can send it in and they will determine if its warranty. She wouldnt give me info to shi it until I found my paperwork. Well i initially bought 4 amps, a kid bought one from me before i installed them, so i ordered a 5th. I bought the 5th one 1 year ago today! What are the chances of that? So now watch, the serial number on it will be one of the original four Anyway, this hopefully explains the unexpected FR responce. I'll flatten the EQ and re-sweep if/when I get the amp repaired/replace and hopefully that was the issue. But damn it if I have to EQ up and down 9dB to get what I want, screw what the smart girls who know their shit have to say... Ill do what it takes to get what I want. KW: SMD's Douchebag of the month July/2010, Car Audio's laughing stock

smd douchbag or not, i am after somethings very different than everyone else, and everyone elses way of doing it on my budget wouldnt get me there i dont mind being the laughing stock, the pressure from that alone on a daily basis is more than you could ever bear. from where I stand youve got it pretty easy, must be true cuz if it wasnt you wouldnt run your mouth to me the way you do...eternally. youd have moved on and left me alone by now. or at least used a fraction of that mass inteligence that i will admit I know you have to go out of your way just once, write up a little disclaimer on my behalf, and stamp it on all of my threads every time you feel the need to...well, run your mouth. " I am ///M5. I know what I am doing. I am here to help those who will listen, as well as protect the noobs from people like krypto. if you choose to do things douchbag's way, do so at your own risk. before attempting anything you see krypto do, it would be wise of you to PM me or start your own thread asking about such actions. we here at ssa will do our best to protect our newborn sheep in our flock from the likes of the laughing stock of the entire audio comunity. thank you. ///M5"

Actually no, he is misleading noobs. Luckily the install quality will have them questioning it anyways. youre the one thats misleading, youve got a rubber stamp that assumes everyone desires the same thing. Though you are right 95% of the time, all you do is fuck it up for the other 5%. But this 5% gives a big middle finger to you and your bullshit. Actually no, he is misleading noobs. Luckily the install quality will have them questioning it anyways. His builds are unconventional, and almost always using the wrong equipment for the job, but they sure are fun to watch Just gotta take it for what it is, if someone can't look through his pictures and really question whether this is being done correctly, then it's their fault if they follow in his footsteps. Ill take that. I appreciate this much better form of constructive criticism. You sir should be commended.

Thank you, that is the idea, apparently its working cuz it gets strong opinions (hate) all day long IDK, because the deck has the option in the first place for a reason? Because much as you like to think your way is the only way, you are obviousely wrong, or again, it wouldnt even BE an option? hope to have more power when the amp is replaced, 3 subs pushing and one acting like a PR in a ported alignment... nict zo gutt. Thank you a ton, and yeah 148 @ 25Hz was fun as hell and I bet I do get 149 @ 23Hz this time around Van complains, despite all the foam, caulk, atc... it stilll bitches about being kicked from the inside uh huh, and it's the best thing Ive done to her in a long while. Now i actually enjoy the way she sounds and shes not sucking up so damn much power from that 35Hz-45Hz shit that I hate so loud in the first place. Im finally getting somewhere...oop, bad amp, 20 steps back.

Heaven for a minute, so much excitement... the EQ was so much better but still lacking up high a bit so I brought 50Hz back up to 0. I love it. So happy. Didn't have to crank it up I got to enjoy it at a reasonable level, sounded amazing. A song that had a deep low, a mid, then high note was perfect... it nailed the low part, got quieter on the mid, then the high part was strong...the way I like it. Next song is one I usually skip because it just pounds/thumps. Now it is much tighter and snapier, now I like the song. Next song theres a part that sweeps down deep once in a while, before it was quiet and I was always thinking "I tuned this low for a reason, parts like this, when it sweps down its supposed to get stupid loud then back to normal". Now it does. But of course things always have to be short lived. Something was still off, so I killed the other drivers. Subs only. Listened. Watched. Watched. Listened. One sub wasn't moving like the other 3. I have a bad amp. I played, switched RCAs, disconnected the others and played by itself. Hooked it to a different sub. Checked to see if it was the sub or amp. Its the amp. The one I have been having trouble gain matching. It's hard to move the gain on it, when it does move the voltage change is drastic even if I barely move the knob. When I was done gain matching it was in a much different position than the other 3. I turned the gain up with it hooked up by itself cuz the sub was quiet but sounded somewhat OK, it clipped and sounded terrible but wasnt loud at all. Contacted [email protected] we will see if they cover it.

Im gonna catch hell for this like everything else, so what, whats new. PEQ flattened everything. GEQ: 20Hz +9dB 25Hz +9dB 40Hz -9dB 50Hz -9dB Ill give it a listen tomorrow and if I ever get feedback on my feedback problem Ill run some sweeps like that and with the extremis phase reversed.

good idea! Still worried about anything starting as liquid then solidifying as it could drip or seep too far in before hardening, even fiberglass resin as it would chip back off fairly easy and leave no residu.

well, under PEQ I only have 2 bands under subwoofer, band 1 either 20Hz or 22Hz, band two's lowest setting is 57Hz. Keep in mind I have been saying before I even started this build that I hate the 45Hz center on bass boost, that if I could invert bass boost on an amp to attenuate 35Hz-55Hz I would... so before even knowing my 47Hz peak i already intended on brining it down... So do I go with a narrow cut at 57Hz and slowly widen it until I look good? Or should I flatten PEQ for now and check out graphic? I assume graphic will have the same bands...Ill go check...

I visit quite a few myself off and on, only 2 regularly...neither of which is this one. I get mixed results here, a few good replies, a lot of bad ones, then a few good ones again.

On my various threads over time Ive had talk of "the hood" and my intended to be humorous vids like "I like being misunderstood, I'm from the hood". Every day thoughout each day theres usually two to five incidents requiring one to four cruisers within 1 block to my south, west, and east... but to the north 1 block, the crack spot and prostitution spot, there is constant cruiser, undercover, SUV, fire truck, and ambulance activity. Tonight thoigh, on their 2nd trip for the day to the same apartment for the same guy, different friends of his, there were 7 cruisers, 1 SUV, 1 large fire truck, and an ambulance. Last night was blood and a neighbors door getting pummeled, someone thrown down stairs, today windows kicked out and some arrests made. I had to snap pics this time when i walked out into most of the vehicles, the SUV showed after I snapped pics.

Thanks Tech. galac did a 4th order with 24 15" mayhems or something like that, bunch of alts, batterys, and saz amps...all kinds of wire and mids/highs in the doors. Went down to 1Hz moving air and things in the port. Riped his doors, kept tearing things apart under the hood. Extremely loud. Its just people ecpect you to do things their way, assume you have the money to do so jusut because you use 18's and build a wall. What they dont get is that I am 1: on a budget 2: after a different FR responce curve than usual, so me going with huge cone area, a wall, very reinforced, gobs of power... was to make up for what I lose by tuning so low and going with cheaper drivers. I have extra airspace to have a peaked low end responce and to require less power on less powerful driver motors. But Ive explained that till I was blue in the face all to many times, and since you get it or at least acknowledge that, fuck them and thank you. Very much, and I mean that.

For those of you wondering why my IB3s were $199 not $219, Fi had semi-secret deals for home theater and still does. Buy 4 subs for home theater at the semi-secret email [email protected] and they give a discount. Q's, IB3s, whatever. I bought 6 18's to begin with, 2 for my HT and 4 for my van, SHIPPED for $1300. I couldnt have afforded a HT and van build with $400+ subs. I then sold the 2 HT subs and bought 4 more for the HT... 4 18's SHIPPED for $880 thanks.

BTW, since you choose to ignore what u dont want to hear like me hope you catch it here: The IB3s were louder than the new subs when it came to going full bore, but obviousely the IB3s couldnt do it for long periods of time at full bore. 2nd the IB3s went lower and higher, the new subs are much louder where I DONT want them louder....35Hz-55Hz. 3rd these new subs were DESIGNED for the enclosure I built: 8-15 cubic feet 15Hz-30Hz tune, home theater LLT/EBS subs. Another thing you seem to forget. I didnt have the money for $400-$1000 subs. I didnt have the money for 12 or 24 subs. I didnt have the money for the bigger van, better amps, and to support the weight of 4th order and 2x4s. You think youre so smart but you see what you want. My van is lighter from using foam. My IB3 subs cost $199 each! My IB3 subs cost $199 each! My IB3 subs cost $199 each! My IB3 subs cost $199 each! My IB3 subs cost $199 each! My IB3 subs cost $199 each! My IB3 subs cost $199 each! My IB3 subs cost $199 each! My IB3 subs cost $199 each! My IB3 subs cost $199 each! My IB3 subs cost $199 each! My IB3 subs cost $199 each! My IB3 subs cost $199 each! My IB3 subs cost $199 each! My IB3 subs cost $199 each! My IB3 subs cost $199 each! My IB3 subs cost $199 each! My IB3 subs cost $199 each! My IB3 subs cost $199 each! My IB3 subs cost $199 each! My IB3 subs cost $199 each! My IB3 subs cost $199 each! My IB3 subs cost $199 each! My IB3 subs cost $199 each! My IB3 subs cost $199 each! Did you get that yet? My new subs cost me LESS than that! My new subs cost me LESS than that! My new subs cost me LESS than that! My new subs cost me LESS than that! My new subs cost me LESS than that! My new subs cost me LESS than that! My new subs cost me LESS than that! So get with it or please, PLEASE, just go away man. Again, I envy your build. If I could have Id have done what you did. OK?

i dont have the IB3s in anymore dick head what happened to your big ass 4th order anyway? you broke too much shit over and over cuz it was too loud so u got rid of it? good 4 u. thought u were pretty cool back in the day but ure a prick. id rather talk with nice people that dont know shit than assholes just cuz they know their shit. I do my shit different. thats not gonna change. dont like it go the fuck away. you obviousely know what u r doing, im sure theres plenty of experts here for you to chit chat and bs with, and im sure theres plenty of noobys and novices that will actually take your advice. i am neither. so why do you keep coming back with that same attitude? fuck off man. anyway, back to me making my mistakes and asking for some advice, with the disclosure that just cuz u give it doesnt mean Im gonna take it, even if I proved myself wrong and you right: I am lost. Here are the Thiele/Small params for the old Blue Print Audio 1803 subwoofers: http://www.htguide.com/forum/showthread.php4?t=3189 Fs = 25.0 Hz Re = 3.6 Ohms Qms = 7.22 Qes = 0.38 Qts = 0.35 Cms = 130.0 uM/N Mms = 300.0 grams Sd = 1217.0 cmsq Vas = 279.4 liters SPL = 92.1 dB X-max = 45mm p-p Power = 1000+ watts remaining stock was bought up by audioliquidators and they rebuilt them with these specs: http://www.hometheaterforum.com/forum/thread/154585/i-just-found-some-bpd1803-s-for-sale Fs 26.3 Hz Re 3.6 Ohms Qms 6.06 Qes .40 Qts .37 Cms 1.1X10-4 Mms 326 g Sd 1210 cm^2 Vas 230.1 l Bl 22.1 Xmax 25.9mm Rms 1000W They originals have been regularly compared to RE Audio HCs http://audioforum.termpro.com/topic/8/9804.html Re 1.8 or .9 per coil Fs 26.1 Qms 11.97 Qes .44 Qts .42 Vas 204 l Sd 1217 cm^2 Bl 22.6 1200 W RMS Here are the specs I was given, I think Scott gave them to the person i purchased them from: Fs = 23.7 Hz Re = 1.8 Ohms Qms = 7.22 Qes = 0.38 Qts = 0.35 Cms = 130.0 uM/N Mms = 300.0 grams Sd = 1217.0 cmsq Vas = 279.4 liters SPL = 92.1 dB X-max = 40mm Power = 1,500+ watts The specs directly above show a flat responce in WinISD without adding in any room/cabin gain. I assumed that the van would have roughly 6dB-12dB/octave gain. However even with 9dB of PEQ gain at 22Hz doesnt yield a heavy bottom end or even a flat responce. With my cabin being SPL-like in nature: as small as possible and as ridgid as possible, air tight with the exception of the windows down... is my cabin gain different?

Putting foam/duct tape/PL PRO/resin in the door jambs helped tremendousely.... brought door flex down from a couple inches to a fraction of an inch, so much that all the little kiddies talk about how weak my setup is and how I have no flex, cuz theyre uber cool and think flex is good. However, since it still moves 1/4" - 1/2" and even more sometimes, enough to see through the door jamb when it hits going down the road, it creates a ton of heat going back and forth 15 times to 200 times per second. It has burnt through the resin and some of the PRO has turned black. I hit them with more resin tonight for now. From 30Hz down my van is MUCH quieter than 30Hz on up, despite the airspace, tuning, and 9dB gain at 22Hz.... I got 148dB below 30Hz and I am guessing I do mid 50's while cruising around.... yet I can hear the squeak and squeel of the resin against resin, caulk against caulk as my doors flex...it's terrible. I hear this inside the vehicle so I can only imagine how bad it sounds to cars next to me before they get the chance to cover their ears, give me a look, and speed off. where all the white is is where it rubbed through the resin that coated over the red paint, through the red paint which coated the yellow caulk. I originally painted it again after it was finished but the doors would get stuck shut...paint stuck to itself... so I coated it with more resin so it would slide.

Nice, I have the same amplifier on one Fi BTL N2 18, working on a vid, i do not have a camera, so I have been trying to get footage together from a buddy with a Nikon, too bad both of us work, so Saturday is the next time we will meet up. looking forward to it. considering supergluing gains still, warranty issue, adjusting in the future issue?

Thank you Scott again for giving me so much to do for the last month or however long it has been. I have been building mic stands, running wires, calibrating sound cards, cutting reinforcements to my house (that werent in use not even contacting anymore LOL) down to build walls and using fence latches and foam to seal up and create door ways, boarding up my windows... rewiring my furnace and basement... and now... the VAN! Scott never asked for a thing, just that I share my results with him. That is a fellow DIY guy. Thank you Scott. As anticipated I have some issues to work out, and my peak burping frequency was as I guessed. First problem, today while re-gain matching... that is a BITCH..I HATE that ****... I noticed a 60Hz hum. I have noticed it before and am still baffled, as this is not home AC power. My 1st sweep I did at volume 1 and PC volume 50% to be safe. Then I tried volume 7 PC 50%, then vol 7 PC 100%. After that I tried 10 and noticed something was WACK. Tried 13 but didnt even make it.. when i turn the HU to 13 I get nasty feedback! It gets louder and louder. When i swept at 13 it was terrible. I always guessed my cabin would resonate above 40Hz, and I had this feeling that since I am tuned ungodly low...almost verified now at 23.3Hz... I always guessed that since I am tuned to 23Hz I will have a peak at 46-48Hz. I show a peak at 47, so I am guessing when i go burp again, 23Hz will be about a 149dB and 47Hz will be mid-50's. I cant get good snap shots, even with the sub at 0 ( max is 15) I get almost 105dB only at volume 7 ( I listen between 18 to 21) down low but up high below 60dB. this got terrible with the feedback

Thanks guys! It means a lot to hear that stuff, for real, when shit pisses me off and I wanna give up! when the subs arent hooked up and I am running a sine wave, they dont actually draw much current at all right? I re-gain matched cuz the shits too loud with the sub level at 0 so all 4 are within .3V now, 27.3V avaerage with the deck at 20 of 35 and sub level 10 of 15. I never play above 20 unless its a really quiet song. that way I can drop all the way to 0 so the subs are very quiet, or crank it to 15 on a quiet song. It is not an easy task, gain setting, a hair this way... too much, a hair back, too far, so leave that one and try to get the others to match it: good luck. On top of that, one amp is very hard to move the knob, but when it moves just a tiny bit the voltage changes drastically. The one next to it is easy. The other 2 on the other side move WAY to easy and I dont like it, I dont even turn them... i touch my mini flat had...just touch them.. and they move I started the van and the lights were dim, the motor labored, alternator whining (not squeeling) voltage was way way down! WTF?!?!