kryptonitewhite

Nick my man, there's nothin wrong with these subs in this box! They do AWESOME! Its just that Ive been waiting 2 years for your 22's since I love the 18's so much. Ive had the output of two 22's ( four 18's) in mind all this time, so having *just* two weighs on my mind. Now I am bummed having finally figured out (if you havent noticed, Im kinda slow ) that one 22 isn't going to have double the output Im getting from one 18. But I do agree with you, I need to brace these suckers and that should help. I got more 2"x4" last weekend, Ive already had some sitting around for them for a while, but I wanted to wait to brace until I cut the sub holes larger for the 22's so I can get longer braces inside. I do listen, I jsut disagree I mean, if you offer me a free upgrade to ANY of your AA/Fi lineup I just cover shipping, sure thing man... my dumbass would put BTLs, Mayhems, Havocs, or SMDs in the damn thing...if it were the same $199 per man!

I decided to cut the towers down to 30 cubes each with a 10" port as suggested, 30" length for a 13.7Hz tune...within 1Hz of the towers tune. I decided to make a final vid of the towers at their true tuning, 13Hz, before i cut them down. I always claim 1hz higher to be safe. But then, I replotted the same thing I plotted 100 times before I built them: And it's really, really hard to agree. GREEN is what I really really want! 12Hz-18Hz giant peak, falls off and flat from there up. PINK is terrible! The INVERSE of what i want! OK, but I have to take into consideration power and excursion. 128 cubes I can give 1000 before 41mm is reached. 30 cubes take 1600. However, I can't get SPL to plot! what gives? I'm going to assume that with the power given, the 30 cubes box comes a lot closer to the 128. but when i click SPL, the plots disappear!

you got me. Im not advanced, but at least I do a little plotting, no? I dont know how to include boundary/room/cabin gain. Im willing to learn though....

Ive considered before cutting the towers apart and building 4 of the Aztek boxes, but slightly bigger and with 10" ports. So I'd have 4 24-30 cubic foot boxes each with a 10" port and an IB3 18. I'd stack 2 in each corner so it would be close to having the same towers with a divider for the subs. Well, not close, 60 cubic feet for 2 vs 128, but still. Thanks for helping me rethink the idea ///, I think I might do that. I'd run each pair at 4 ohm per EP4000. I am running both of the towers 4 ohm on one EP4000 right now to see what it's like. It is very comparable to 1 EP per sub @ 8 ohms. If I simply keep just 2 drivers and build another enclosure, I don't gain anything. My enclosure volume and port size are for the ultimate efficiency in theory. The idea was, the larger the enclosure, the more efficieny, the larger the port, the more efficiency, so I thought "whats the biggest I can build?" sheets come in 4'x8'... so I used those as all 4 sides and stuck a 12" port in there.

So over the last 2 years I pre-planned my van build making it clear that I don't want 30Hz-60Hz. That I must have as much 30Hz on down output as possible, but 60Hz on up would be nice as well. With only 1 HO alt, I was able to sort of get by by having my subs LPed at 31.5Hz. Less information to re-create, more power for the narrower band... and that narrower band is very high excursion (low frequency) for more cone motion to keep things cool with a clipped signal. Well I'll be getting 2 more HO alts, so I can bring the LP up to 100Hz where it should be, as I finally moved my 6.5's HP up to 100Hz. But my excursion problem, as predicted, is 25Hz-45Hz, and I want to take out 30-60 anyway. So I am playing with WinISD and for fun took out 30Hz at -6dB.

2 DP21's... no need, it's badass!

I wish I had some 18" Avas. Well worth getting reconed

Ive heard that you want a minimum of 1 port diameter clearance at the ends,2 of them look like they will have an effectilvely longer port length being so close to the enclosure wall... but thats just splitting hairs. Looks promasing!

When I originally heard the IB3 18's Xmech was "shortly after its 30mm Xmax" I assumed maybe it was 31mm-33mm. So when I heard the IB3 22 was going to have a 38mm Xmax and 96% of the Vd of two IB3 18's, I thought the 22" was going to have a lot more Mechanical clearance than the 18's. But the 22's are going to have the same profile surrounds as the 18's, so the same or similar 41mm - 42mm Xmech. I'm not going to be able to replace my 18's with the 22's. At 8 ohms I already have to be careful to avoid over excursion. I planned on running 8 ohms for the 18's for safety, but 4 ohms for the 22's. The 22" isn't going to work. I'm probably going to have to order a 2nd pair of 18's for the towers. I hate the idea. 1st, a single sub has a much different FR than 2 subs in the same enclosure. 2nd I expected a little lower Fs with the 22's. 3rd I already have the 18's centered, it's gonna look funny adding a second driver to each box. I considered getting 2 more per box, 6 total, but I dont have enough $$ for that and the odd impedance is another issue. What to do?

thanks man, and I dig your sig and your avatar! need a bib.

I have one EP4000 on 2 18's in 10 cubic feet 12" port tuned to 35Hz and 2 more 18's in separate 128 cubic foot boxes with 12" ports tuned to 13.5Hz The 2 in 10 cubes are so much louder, but the 2 in 128 each sound so much better!

after today, after putting the two "not as blown" IB3's in the 10 cubic foot box tuned to 35Hz, nah, I'm reconin! The two with the spiders ripped off my girlfriend cut apart and taped the gaps, plus to make things easier to check the batmobile cutouts we took the motor off the basket on the old one. so much lighter now chrome V black funny lookin cigar... ****in right foam again what

ill say it again! i learned not to do 30-60 cans in 1 day, 15 cans at a time. 1 can on each side early on, 1 more can on each side at the end sluts uh huh but they dont but they dont they dont hear me doh i got blood on my hands cuz I... I got blood on my.... I'm a nasty ...

thats right botches! FOAM! If youre not quick enough to jump on the wagon you get left behind. Did we learn anything with the VAN? yep. did we learn not to use foam? NOPE! I'll say it again. If you dont use duct tape and foam, youre a piece of ****

bugs were bad, so sum1 brought the mosquito plant over. could just watch the swarm fly away. neat.

mayhems hellz ya! apx. 10 cu ft for the front (vented) chamber and apx. 20 cu ft for the rear (sealed) chamber. 2 10" ports. I'm sorry if i'm wrong, but don't you need to have a bigger ported chamber then the sealed chamber? I think i read that a 2:1 or 3:1 ratio get's good results. EDIT:cranberryyumyum, why are you a troll? No need to be so negative, if u haven't got any critisism that is usefull or nothing positive to say why say it? generally yes, but with the MX 18" with the tuning, it was perfect. If we wanted to raise tuning, we could have used the rar chamber and ran the ports throgh the front chamber He's now going IB though

Hey Matt, He cut a sheetmetal "wall" to support steel tubes, used masking tape as the moulding agent, then hit it with glass matt and resin. The front part of the curves is steel, sheetmetal.

as you see in this video, my enclosure works as predicted with WinISD. The low 21Hz note and the next lowest note (which i do not know what it is) have the least excursion but the most port output. A consequence of tuning this low is higher excursion in the 30's. This is the trade off. As you see, this is where my excursion is highest..again, as predicted by WinISD, and this is what I sacrifice to get the FR curve that I want and am so pleased with. Yet the port offers little help in this high excursion range. Im sure though, of course, that most of you are very familiar with the "impedance saddle" and the excursion and output that comes with it as well, Im sure a bunch of you know a buncha guys that hit the two lowest notes in that track better than I do without unloading and aid of SSF or volume knob ;)

this guy says he brings his badass level 5's to "their maximum excursion" hmm, guess he broke his too YouTube - dc level 5 problems is my home theater is a bust too, cuz despite being able to make the back door on the opposite side of my house suck open enough to see sunlight through it with a 15Hz sine wave: I can still bring both of my subs to full excursion for a full minute at tuning without even getting the subs or amps warm. make the sheetmetal on my stove 2 rooms away ripple on the other side of the house, at 15Hz and I can play the bass will destroy you, main note 18Hz, sweeps down to 13Hz, and I maintain full excursion the whole way im not going for SPL just cuz I have a wall and got metered. If i was, I would have done 4th order clam shell. obviousely on a budget, or I wouldnt be running audippipe, IB3s, and only 1 HO alt, cheap wire, and only 2 batts

alright, what I have: VAN: 50 cubic feet, 20" diameter port, 18.5" long, 22Hz tune, assuming amps do 1000 watts before clipping then 4000 watts, assuming they do 1500 watts before clipping 6000 watts high pass 20Hz low pass 31.5hz 30dB/oct... with WinISD I am setting to link-riley 4th order HT: 128 cubic feet (per sub) 12 diameter port (per sub) 5" long for a 13Hz tune ( I said 13.5-15Hz tune in video) 2 EP4000's, rated 2500 rms @ 4 ohms, I am running 8 ohms, even at 8 ohms IF they got full current delivery, rated 1750 rms. I am gonna guess Im maybe getting 1000 watts each peak. IB3's have a 30mm Xmax, 42mm Xmech. I can bottom my subs out in all applications, so 42mm RED LINE is van, 50cu ft 22Hz tune, HP L-R 4th order 20Hz, LP L-R 4th order 31.5Hz. WinISD puts the drivers at 42mm at tuning with 999,999 watts. 1 millioin watts. I'm not giving each of them a million watts when I bottom them out. YELLO LINE is HT, 128 cubic feet each, 13Hz tune each, no HP filter, LP 250Hz per Denon subwoofer setting. WinISD takes 2000 watts to get to 41mm at tuning. My EP4000s are NOT each putting out 2000 watts when I bottom them out! After I get the recones, I will make a vid of me bottoming them out at tuning for ya all. video home theater full excursion at tuning for a couple minutes, drivers not even warm, maybe 600 watts each

looks like Atmos Audio might be the guys who are gonna do this!

beautiful! I love your work! I hope youre gonna use PL PRO subfloor adheisive, and a lot of it. That would be stronger and more spread out than the bolts, but also will make it more air tight. Plus fill in with foam. Lookin good!

Dan says NOPE, OEM only innertube..lol..that was brought up long ago with the Parthenon!

Thanks Sandt38. I havent talked to Dan in a few months, he was going to let me buy a batch of the XBL tweets but i think his side kick Mark put his foot down. I talked to Scott a few days ago about a custom 30" and 20" driver using the Parthenon. Right off the bat though, going from 4 18's and a 20" port to a 20" driver with 4 16" ports kills Sd efficiency and port material area for frictional losses. If I could start a new van build, he might consider a 30" driver using the Parthenon