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kryptonitewhite

SSA Regular
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Everything posted by kryptonitewhite

  1. well I used the 50 bucks I saved on wire and got a hydro crimper there's a dude on www.**** doing 4 DP21s 4th order that sent me a link t get it. My window started acting up so i put in a new motor yesterday. I pulled the dash to see how I'm gonna customize it to get the Alpine to fit...man it's a tight squeeze. I knew all along once I popped the dash open I'd have to look and see if i could do the front stage in it again..but nope, a HUGE aluminum plate. Good. The roof build will be easy and simple. Started working on the false roof and started the bracing for the wall... 2 layers of 2x6... will make a # sign too with 2 supports up and down and 2 side to side going between subs and port. oh, and I got a fish tank pump and hose... i drilled a bunch of holes in both sides the other day and let it sit..nothing has happened...so I'll leave that on overnight and see what happens.
  2. I did some work today and snapped some pics but nothing interesting..tryin to pile up the stupid stuff so I'm not posting a boring pic every few hrs but when i do somethin worth lookin, I'll put it right here.. on THEE site
  3. right now it's looking like I'll put the front stage in the roof facing strait down. No one is gonna like it, but I'm ok with it. There's no spcae in the doors without being muffled by the seats or people's legs. I have to modify the dash in the VAN too, cuz the Alpine double din is too big..looks like the factory is din and 1/2? IDK...I'll dig deeper when I get there...but I doubt I'll do an all new dash again. So the roof panel I put in, another 4'x8' sheet of 3/4" MDF... I'll put all the way to the front, bend it down 2" so it comes to the bottom of the frame where the windshield connects. Tweeters on the outside, then FRs, then Exts. Well as long as it sounds good to you and performs the way you need it to, then go for it dude! There isnt any uniform laws of how to do this hobby. Everybody builds different stuff and thats what makes it so interesting. Lets keep these pics comin so you can open another PB account!!! now thats what i'm tryin 2 hear. It's crazy how many people get so worked up for not doing it their way. People get so pissed off, its pretty discouraging. I got told just a bit ago stop posting so many pics, and here I get told more.. people are interesting
  4. right now it's looking like I'll put the front stage in the roof facing strait down. No one is gonna like it, but I'm ok with it. There's no spcae in the doors without being muffled by the seats or people's legs. I have to modify the dash in the VAN too, cuz the Alpine double din is too big..looks like the factory is din and 1/2? IDK...I'll dig deeper when I get there...but I doubt I'll do an all new dash again. So the roof panel I put in, another 4'x8' sheet of 3/4" MDF... I'll put all the way to the front, bend it down 2" so it comes to the bottom of the frame where the windshield connects. Tweeters on the outside, then FRs, then Exts.
  5. ok nevermind! my old 4 to my new 0... big difference
  6. The wire nor anything else is a huge issue. Here is an end pic to show jacket thickness. if I am competing to get every last drop of SPL, that last .01dB..OK. If I'm competing in SQ and I just gotta have it perfect...fine. But 99% of the time I'm going to be using 20% or less of the power I have on tap. Those IB drivers aren't going to be getting 3000 watts RMS! Those 1" tweets aren't going to be getting 200 watts RMS! I am over building so that I can coast rather than redline
  7. ya so... when i was looking for power wire, I couldn't get a definitive on AP30001D terminal size, but i think it is 0. So I looked for 0. Then, the guy I bought the amps from was selling 50ft spools for $100. But i found some cheap crap for $65. Sure, it wasn't pure copper, and he couldn't tell me if his was when he said "sorry I don't get generic so i can't go less than a bill" or something to that effect. But i figured Ive never ran bigger than 4 gauge.. i dont care what anyone says, screw internal resistence and volatge drop and all that talk. I had 6 red tops off 4 gauge and I was fine, so if I get cheap 0 gauge it still has to be better than the best 4 gauge. Another angle: The junk was $50, $65 shipped. The "good stuff" was $100... IDK how much shipping would tag on, but let's just say the cost was double. There's no way that the copper only wire is gonna be twice as good as the junk wire. So screw it! BUT, I got it today, and you can literally see a fraction of the strands are aluminum! OK, so i was thinking I would have to pay double to get some 99.98% pure copper wire or some crazy number vs maybe 80%-90% copper...but wow, this is like 60%-80% maybe? IDK... And, it sure doesn't look huge. It resembles the 4 gauge I've been working with..but the packing says 0 gauge..so whatever. So then I had to look for terminal rings, and IDK the terminal size on my AGM batts...so i just get the biggest I can order... and of course its a touch small, so I have to use a drill and shave the holes to get them to fit my battery terminals. Oh well! No crying here. I got a badass system in progress. I'm not letting some collapsed foam in my way! Slow me down? ya. But it will get done! So as for foam, I drilled 2 holes in 2 separate pockets and sprayed just 1 can in each. It looked normal at first, but later it looks like it's just melting into the rest of the blob. I'll look again tomorrow in new light. I got some cheap paint and painted the caulk from the window..looks a lot better. I'ma keep on movin! ALT and AMPS should be here soon.
  8. technically yes. like most of us hobbyists, we generally know that the cabin has a large influence..rather, listening position/area...outside, arena, home on the crapper... but with this particular build where 3/4 to 4/5ths the van is the rear enclosure... leaving the front cabin much smaller than the rear... what is this thing? I gotta think the listening area wil have as much or more effect on cone excursion, tuning, FR responce curve, impedence... everything... than the rear. Guess we will see! I mean, the rear volume looks like it will be between 80 cubes and 120 cubes...thats a large difference, but I havent measured since I got the MDF in..and I dont know if I'm going to put a back on the "box" yet anyweay. Lets assume 90 cubes after disp. My port volume, 20"x54"... is about 9 cubes alone! Whats the fron aiorspace? 40-60 cubes? the windows... 2'x2'x2"? Windows up... then its just the port between the 2 chambers... know what I mean?
  9. lol it just dawned on my that no one has said that yet... since this thing really got moving anyway. I've had that big debate for years... I been tunin below 20Hz for years just try it once and you will see what everyone thinks they know is not there. You cant take my word for it, you just gotta try it...as big as possible and as low as possible.... start listening to all kinds of stuff, and you will be chillen then... "whoah? what was that?" rewind. play. rewind. play. Forget Audacity or any other spectral analyzer. Forget what all the know it alls say...cuz they are usually pretty darn smart, but, no one knows it all. Use your own ears..and yes..other senses... thats all i can say man.
  10. just a wall as big as possible... looking to be about 100 cubic feet give or take 20 for now... probably a 20" sonotube port about 50" long... about a 13Hz-15Hz tuning
  11. you are right! thanks man, I think ill be ok.. ill drill and fill. but u nailed it!
  12. and what doesnt get used will pool on MDF and foam and mold?
  13. i cant just pull it back out. there are over 70 cans of that shit concentrated... good luck. and if I cant get it out, then I cant get 2 part mix first in..thats y i use great stuff, cuz i just need a tiny hole to stick the hose in man!
  14. lol I have been thinkin all along "if a window breaks, what am I gonna do?" and the plan was...peel the glass off and I'll have a perfect foam surface to fiberglass.... um...
  15. why does my phone take better pics than my brand new $250 camera?!
  16. so, the foam did cure, it did collapse so to speak...more like it left giant voids. But it also left a huge skeleton structure... it looks like an under ground tunnel labrynth by moles and the like. Some of it is very concentrated and sturdy looking. I think this is a blessing in disguise. I'm just gonna drill and fill.
  17. your answer below, and thank you very much for the inspiration! Don't. i just think it looked cool, its different but im never going to anything quite as exotic as that...or anywhere near that actually thank you for the kind words.. and that IS NOT BEING DONE THOSE PICS ARE 4 YEARS OLD it says that, it says doing something similar to what I did years ago. and then theres more pics of where the new build is going to be thanks man! I created a new photobucket account last week cuz I ran out of bandwidth, and that has never happened to me before! I just made another one today LOL!
  18. youre right! it was cold when I did the 2nd side, I did run the van a while to heat it up insid once in a while..I went out and looked again and it looks like there are layers...giant cells.. that cured, theres just giant voids/pockets that I can go back in and fill if I drill holes
  19. from another forum: dude IDK if ure kidding or not, but I am considering it now... I dont want the added weight, but hell... if that is what it takes..
  20. well it's all probably at the bottom now in a thick solid goo... if it cures, its not filling the void
  21. I think you are right. So let the stuff dry/cure another day or 2 then do it again, but slowly?
  22. now for the bad it is hard to tell, but thats almost all hollow.. it looks like it is there because the outter edge stuck to the windows, but if u look close, it is hollow with a streak here and there where a new layer was on top of an old layer that started to cure
  23. Hey guys, I am asking for as much input here as I can get. I have everything I need...it's sunny outside..but I am at a hault. OK, I take it back... my HO alt from Iraggi was attempt delivery so i cant pick it up till tomorrow, my 4 AP30001D's should be here any day, my 50 foot spool of 0 gauge, a 40 pack of 0 gauge terminal rings...and Kicker should be shipping back two 4 channels soon as well. Otherwise, i have the van, I have the subs, I have the 3rd 4 channel, 3 AGM batteries..same as Deka Intimidator..I got lots of wood... 2"x6"x8' boards for bracing... gonna make X's inside of squares..should be solid. I have several sheets of 4'x8'x3/4" MDF... I have 4 Extremis 6.4's, 2 CSS FR125Ss, 2 Vifa XT25TG30 tweets... I have an Alpine IVA-W505 DVD player and the badass PXA-H701 crossover... But I have collapsed foam. I can't do anything. I need to figure this out! I didn't go all crazy and make a 2x4 frame in the van, I gutted it out, cut out some MDF to fit, dropped a couple screws in, poured on the PL PRO, let it cure, then taped it off drilled some holes and started pouring in the foam. On the 1st side I blacked out the windows, and, the process was slower as I was getting going on the foam...so I put it in in several layers spread out over time. IDK if it suffers the same prob, I cant see. The 2nd side I didnt black out the windows, and I dropped in over 40 cans over 2 days... I piled it up quick. It looked good for a few days through the window..then one day...gone. It all liquified and sank. There is no pulling the MDF back out...this foam is strong as it is, but when it liquifies and gets gooey... not a chance. I want to put more back in but slower...let each can cure before putting in another. But will it get air? Do I need to cut holes? That will weaken the wood. thats the good stuff..outside edges where it got air

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