kryptonitewhite

It's dark, it's cold, it's windy... I don't have NEARLY enough power! 22 cubic feet tuned to 15Hz 8" sonotube port 2001 Pontiac Aztec. I have 3 of the Red Tops wired up, the IB3 18 is LAUGHING at the Lanzar OPTI2000D that is rated 1100 RMS @ 2ohm. When I try to give it more, then she gets pissed cuz it clips to beat hell. I am selling the Lanzar and I am looking for a Kicker 2500.1 Email me at [email protected] please no PMs! :41 into the vid that is 7Hz!!! I can not describe what the 18Hz part is like, but you can hear below 20Hz if the output is high enough! I LOVE IT! More to come. So here it is: "your chit is NOT low enough... for me!" ya'll give me some good songs and I'll try to get them and make porn with them. IDK how interesting this can be until I get more power, I get a lot more excursion at 30Hz than the rest of the way down VID #1 Bass, I LOVE you! Keep in mind, most vids during the 18Hz tone are unloading but kept within limits via SSF, mine is just about at tuning... reducing excursion. I had all the doors all the way open because it wants more power, especially with the doors shut. sorry about the clicking/poping... cant see, too dark... not much better...

1 ported will go lower and require less power, as well as cut the weight factor out. 2 sealed would be louder than 1 ported, 2 ported would be insanely loud..... you actually had them both ported for a while... that was just disgusting loud. 2 sealed: large box, heavy, realatively flat responce... power hungry 2 ported larger box, will have to be tuned high (again like before) stupid loud, large hump responce 1 sealed... either small box, kind of peaky, less power, not so loud or large sealed flatter/lower responce a bit more efficient 1 ported less weight, lower extention, less power required, flattest responce biggest issue... they take a chit ton of power, any less than $300 on an amp and trying to power them both is pointless. if you run them both, youre gonna have to spend a few dollars on a bigger amp and some electrical upgrades.

did a few layers of spraypaint today, will put some stuff from a can on for the final coat(s) got a red top under the hood, had to get a top post clamp because the car terminal ring plus the power wire ring were too thick and kept stripping out. This was a few weeks ago with 18.5 cubes @ 17Hz. We just happened to get where we actually wanted to be with our "temporary" sloppy box. 22 cubes 15Hz.

the avalanche was in bandpass. since bandpass can turn out real bad real easy from a tiny mistake, I didn't seal up 1 side to test it first before caulking the sub in. My Lanzar OPTI2000D was advertised not to have shut off/turn on pop. Well, they do, and after 2 years of fighting via the BBB and New York Attorney General, Lanzar no longer advertises "soft turn on/off". So After the ava's were done, I went ported and had the MOFO and the Type-R in it. I am very disappointed in type r's, the 2" coil couldn't take much power for long, and believe it or not... the SPL beast MOFO was beautiful! 4" coil, thick stiff foam surround, huge magnets (BIG BL) multiple stiff spyders.... and it was wonderful!

someone I could kick it with. I will have enough 30Hz on up that I need, when it does dip down that low, THAT is what I like. They can like them 30's-40's all they want I'll be making a new thread "your chit's not low enough for me" soon hoping members will send me song names with sub-30Hz info and I'll make vids and post them on it

BEFORE WE GET INTO THE BIG DEBATE: I have t-nuts and #10 security screws that do not fit into the mounting flange holes on the sub!!!! OK, debate on. I know, I know... "why tune below 25-27Hz in car?!" Music rarely has information below 30Hz... why tune below 33Hz!!! Car's cabin gain can be as much as 12dB/oct from 60Hz on down.... yadda yadda. For those of you that will NOT be able to just deal with it, please PLEASE just pretend it is 22 cubes SEALED for an IB sub! PLEASE! ( I know you won't but at least I asked) Since you know so much, then you know that all vented cabinets act as a sealed enclosure above the range where the port helps. So me tuning at 15Hz, IF the port is never used cuz my music doesn't go that low, I would be more than happy with this sub in a sealed cabinet of it's size, especially after cabin gain. (not really, but I'm tired of this argument) I have done this before. The 4th order bandpass design you see in my avatar (some of your forums require too much effort to add a custom avatar, I will include a pic) is with an F3 of 20Hz and an S factor of .7 I designed it from Shavono.com before I learned how to use Bass Box Pro 6 and WinISD Pro. My POS Lanzar amp bottomed the sub before I got to even seal the lid... it's advertised shut off mute did not work after testing.... so the former smashed on the top plate and the coil unwound. I had to cut it open and it became a vented cabinet of 5.1 cubic feet tuned to 19Hz. I had an S15L7 in 3.5 cubes @ 27Hz. I have been there, i have done that, I have heard good setups tuned to 33Hz and 27Hz, deal with it!

so I couldn't wait anymore, I decided to use the wood I have to build a quick box to get us through so we could take our time and do the final box as good as we can. so we re-took some measurements so we could build as big as we could outside and slide it in. I didn't calculate anything, just got the max dimensions and made the port go all the way back less 1 port diameter.... I just did it and what a trip, it's right where we were aiming for anyway... we might just keep this box as is unless we do get a 22".... I put the port close to the sub to get more wall clearance, making this box obsolete for a 22"...cuz it is ... was... just a temp sloppy box to get by... well check this, I was aiming for >20 cubes and 15Hz tuning.... and now that I sat down, we have 22 cubes @ 15Hz with a 20" port length. What are the freakin odds?! I'm keepin it as is. Now the big debate may as well start now, so after I post these pics here ( camera died, I have to go out and take more pics now that we're home... box basically complete in-car....) After this post I'll post my plans I made 2 weeks ago... showing we are on target as is :D taking out factory considering leaving factory in and putting CD deck in center console looks good the driver side power window has been intermitten... switch is going bad... decided to pull the door apart too to replace switch and see what we're working with to put 2 Extremis 6.4's in each door... fiberglass/bondo thank god ya can't see my measurements, cuts, or close ups of the final outcome... I was in a hurry to get something in by the end of the day freezing rain and windy all day front... close to wall/baffle size to get an idea of what the wall will be like blurry... shows how close we are, taking up just about everything we can bottom too my sausages stickin out... i liked sitting inside the box when it was complete too

thanks man! it's an Aztec/Aztek lol I see it both ways when searching parts...craziness...

been trying to build one for 4 years now, well here it is!

I'm not so sure about driving screws strait into the sheetmetal, nor will I use any 2x6 or 2x4... but here's something a bit off course

As of yet, every box I have built was constructed out of car. This one is going to be along these lines, and I am struggling with caulk/glue and screw. I am OCD and anal when it comes to this.... so I am hoping for a bunch of links with different pics like these showing how best to put front/back/top/sides together securely. I'm hoping I don't just glue/caulk the hell out of it and set them together.... I am used to flush ands butted up together and putting 2 1/2" screws in.... but when it's the entire height/width/depth, you can't get in there to drill. Any help is greatly appreciated! found these pics on the net, not mine:

Tear down

definately not my 1st build.. or 10th... My bad..Looking good for your first build with angles like that.. it's the only excuse I have for it looking so bad, and it really was tough.... I was making my 1st and only attempt to point and aim, do some staging and imaging.... man was it a mess. But thanks

Got some 8" sonotube. My piece is actually 7 3/4", they make 3 sizes of "8 inch" for shipping purposes.

thanks I hope to keep as much enthusiasm as you!

definately not my 1st build.. or 10th...

ever since sitting on the inside, it's been growing on me. it's like being inside the spaceships in starwars! warp speed... 20Hz... ahead!!

these ones?? as you can see, I had a very rough time with it... was my first build with angles like that that couldn't be measured twice and cut once... it was measure, cut, test fit, trim, test fit, trim again... re-angle, adjust, angle up a little higher, cut again..... I learned a lot from it, still have it, breaks my heart to waste it I'm puttn the extremis in the doors, but I'll sell the Audio Control 6XS!

compared to that 18", they are can't wate to see how the 22" dwarfs things...

thanks, I hope it looks good finished... plain black 22", 8" port, black wall... in cognito on the down low, yet WTF! at the same time these might be redundant from an earlier thread, but they go here now: a little aqward free air 16Hz or 20Hz bass i love you free air aprox 4.5 - 18 watts according to DMM... demo just to show 7Hz signal is lowest, not 18Hz in that track DMM showing 5.7 volts during 7Hz tone, 6x6=36 watts/2 ohm= 18 watts no more than 12 watts DMM

We shopped for a Buick Rendezvous or Pontiac Aztac so we could get >18 cubes and still have room for kids, grocieries and such and avoid getting a minivan. Explorers, Blasers, Bravadas, and the like we'ren't nearly enough. Basically we are walling the hatchback. >20 cubes, 8" port. This is temporary until a 21" or 22" driver of similar specs is finished. ( >30mm Xmax, <20Hz Fs) I originally designed it to have the sub on top and port on bottom, but once the 22" is in, side by side works better.

I got screwed by Ascendant Audio over 3 years ago, but that was before Scott bought them. I just ordered an IB3 18 from Fi a few weeks ago and it didn't take long to get it, and she's in great shape. Scott even followed up on it on a different forum and gave me specific instructions to post pics of the build

people from that same forum were trying to tell me a while back when i was thinking of doing it IB in a Toyota Camry..... put it in IB and port it! I couldn't believe it, because it's really just a sloppy/flexing/leaky sealed box, with the trunk lid moving out, and sheet metal fleaxing out... cubic feet will go up, and as it sucks in, verse vice.... so the cubic feet will always varry.... how can you "tune" that??? bastards

I don't want heart pounding bass, I want serious excursion can get more angles, better views with vid too