kryptonitewhite

I am in that same boat, I lose a TON of SPL being tuned so damn low, but it sounds a zillion times better.

my daughter loves the lights!

Sweeps like this would be nice: but burps in 1Hz increments like this can still help: 132.5dB @ 15Hz 136.7dB @ 17Hz 140.3dB @ 18Hz 142.5dB @ 19Hz 143.8dB @ 20Hz 144.9dB @ 21Hz 145.7dB @ 22Hz At 1:02 it sounds like the subs are bottoming, that is the doors flexing over 3" at 22Hz at 145.7dB despite the door jam pockets. You can hear him say " the door doesn't like that". I was tuned to 25Hz but when I started at 15Hz with 132.5dB, you can see the 2nd and 3rd harmonics were well below the fundamental 15Hz. 147.7dB @ 23Hz 147.9dB @ 24Hz 148.2dB @ 25Hz and 26Hz at the floor 148.2dB on music at 25Hz... I set the LP at 31.5Hz with a 30dB/oct slope so that I only hit the low note. If I would have had it at 80Hz where it was supposed to be I'd be in the mid to upper 50's but I only wanted to know what I got from 29Hz down. fast forward to 2:50 put on 148.2dB 147.7dB @ 23Hz hair trick unintentional. The guy is incorrect about the SPL reading being false due to the bottoming out noise... the Term Lab is a pressur sensor and does not register anything other than bass. NASA used one to measure the space shuttle launches.

I know it's burried in the 16 pages, but what is original vs plug? cubes and tuning. Have u taken sweeps of the inside showing FR?

so you put a port plug in, lowering the tuning, decreasing port area, which made you peak out at a higher frequency with a lower number? Not surprising, as the lower tuning should lower your peak at tuning, harmonics and 1/4 wavelengths will shift as well.. port resonance... which can also more closely match up with cabin/vehicle resonance.... so over all, tuning lower you have a smaller SPL, and now your port resonance and vehicle harmonics become larger than your tuning but are still not as loud as around tuning when you were tuned higher. is this after removing the plug and back to the enclosure you had before the plug?

dropped the Extremis off the Alpine to 50Hz... man I want to compete!

cheers! I tried dropping them to 3kHz for the hell of it, uh-uh nope. messed with the Extremis again too, everywhere from 125Hz on Alpine 125Hz Kicker, to 50Hz Alpine 50Hz Kicker.... I can never leave well enough alone!

sure does feel pretty damn good finally ordered the 2nd alternator mounting brackets...get that thing installed and running smooth, some recones with a few extra spiders, and hopefully this thing is done!

yup, the shit's still in the ceiling and it's gonna stay there. if you need to hear the drummer strait ahead and back 7 feet, the back up singer come 3 feet deep from 7 feet from your right, lead guitar and vocalist strait ahead yadda yadda... if you're all about staging, imaging, using time delay, phase, and EQ.... GOOD FOR YOU! I like it loud and clear. it is loud and clear. I like a ton of midbass and a ton of high treble and easy on the low treble and easy on the midrange. So this thing has come a long way, I now have: Alpine IVA-W505 touch screen DVD player so that I can use the touch screen to control the digital Alpine PXA-H701 crossover/processor. I have (2) Kicker KX850.4s bridged on (4) Adire Audio Extremis 6.4s with XBL^2, neo, aluminum/copper shorting rings with the Alpine HP 100Hz 24dB/oct.... I can run these things down to 35Hz easily, but with 1.7kW on tap for the midbasses alone, for as loud as I have them, even crossed at 100Hz I still get more content below 80Hz than most people have. I have the Kicker Crossovers all the waydown at 50Hz 12dB/oct.... 1 octave below the Alpine... for a touch more filtering and for protection... a couple times I have hit a wrong button resetting the EQ completely and had the battery situation which reset theAlpine as well...if it wasn't for the Kicker crossovers I'd have blown all 10 drivers instantly at high volume. LP set to 560Hz 24dB/oct. (1) Kicker KX650.4 bridged on (2) CSS FR125S 4.5" full range XBL^2 copper/aluminum shorting rings copper phase plugs 560Hz 24dB HP Alpine 200Hz 12dB Kicker for protection from resetting the Alpine 5kHz 24dB LP (1) Kicker SX500/2 on (4) Vifa XT25TG30 1" Ring Radiator tweets 16kHz 6dB/oct slope Alpine so that the high end is louder and the lower end is quieter, the way I like it, then the Kicker SX crossover set to 5kHz 24dB/oct, Alpine LP 20kHz 6dB/oct just in case, not that there should be much above 17-18kHz ever getting sent out from the HU.

of course it has to take the snapshot for the vid right there.... damn it man!

according to this test http://www.forceaudio.com/index.php?topic=15.0 there is no way a 4000 watt amp, even if the power supply allowd it to put out 8,000 watts being fully clipped, should blow a 10,000 watt sub if the sub truely is thermally rated to handle 10,000 watts

$95 plus tax for a 12' long piece of cardboard 20" in diameter... they wouldn't sell a 4' chunk...bastards! You should have seen me driving home with this cannon sticking out the rear hatch :-P I considered mounting an 18" at the end of it and calling it a day.

Any updates? Did you do some clip testing a few years back, had a bunch of cheap little 5"ers or something like that and blew them all giving some clean signals, some clipped signals before the amp, and some from the amp clipping?

I'm putting this in the "you know your kryptonitewhite when.." thread in my sig

But it says "competition" right on the box!

unless he got some IB3s lol i joke i joke, i kid i kid

and here I was running 550 watt subs that cost $199 with 3kW and never cooked a coil or burnt a lead

With all the boosting I had to have SW set to -12dB, music is much louder than flix so i had to have it turned down for music, especially Bassotronics goodies. So I reset and tried cutting instead. Now I have +16dB at 32Hz, -32dB @ 40Hz, +6dB at 80Hz, and -6dB at 125Hz... this sweep I got to do at -20dB MV and had plenty of room left, sub at 0dB.

As if cars and car audio isn't enough, then a home and home audio too? Tell me about it! But it doubles your knowledge and changes your perspectiv and maybe even goals in car audio after while.

I came very close to building a center consol for mine, I did in my last build and it was pretty sweet...but I had to go a little more anti-theft so I... did something else

Depends on which version it is, I'm not sure if the older one came with a quad coil or not. The last versions have a DD/AQ stylish basket, 4inch coil, not sure of actually motor specs other than that. I just know they sure aren't anything special, no offense to anybody that owns one. I looked at the new X3's, and those look super cheap. Looks like a Vibe or Lanzar sub(can't exactly remember), with the ribbed surround and logo on dustcap. A few companies sub's can pull off ribbed surround(most seem to be rubber), but these seem to have foam. Turned me off, even thought I was never turned on. I hope they serve more of a purpose than looks, because they really kill any hope it might of had. yup, I googled it and there's 2 versions! As if it wasn't retarded enough back in the day when the 15" was completely different from the 18"...freakin headache... now there's old version 15, old version 18, new 15, and new 18... I think everyone on this thread has the right idea... fuck ss, who cares :-P

http://www.extendedgmwarranty.com/owners-manual/chevrolet/2001-Chevrolet-Astro.pdf 3 Courtesy Lamps, Glove Box Lamp, Dome Reading Lamps, Vanity Mirror Lamps, Courtesy Lamps 4 DRL Relay, Instrument Panel Cluster (This is the one that I pull to kill switches, after pullign this voltage stopped dropping. WTF! DRL Relay is what makes the headlights stay on daytime unless you manual defeat it with the button. The button also shuts the dome light off) 9 License Plate Lamp, Taillamps, Parking Lamps, Ashtray Lamp, Panel Lights, Trailer Taillamps, Front and Rear Sidemarker Lamps, Door Switch Illumination, Headlamp Switch Illumination, Rear Seat Audio Illumination, TBC Module 14 Cluster Illum, HVAC Controls, Chime Module, Radio Illumination, Rear Heat Switch Illumination, Rear Wiper/Washer Switch Illumination, Rear Liftgate Switch Illumination, Remote Cassette Illumination, O/H Console, TBC Illumination 15 TBC Module, Headlamp Relay Dome reading lamps were probably separate from the dome light, but not sure. Headlamp switch illumination? O/H Console should be the same as dome light and dome reading lamps... all 1 piece up front and 1 piece in rear. Headlamp relay? Anyway, I'll just keep killing the toggles from now on..maybe I'll make 1 toggle for the set of toggles to make things easier.

Last night I pulled the fuse that kills my dome light and toggle switches, the stock volt gauge was higher than i have ever seen it... 2 lines past 14V. All day i shut the toggles off when I shut the van off. Seems to have done the trick. So I looked at my manual, there seems to be 4 maybe 5 separate fuses that have some variation to "head lamp" such as "head lamp relay". I didn't take the time to turn the dome light on and pull each one one at a time to see if each killed it... but I did shut the door and watch the dome light go off but the toggles stay on. So i got to thinking... the fuse that kills the dome light that I know off, if I pull the fuse and measure the contacts... shouldnt the DMM read 12V when the domelight should be on (door open and 30 seconds after closing) then 0V after I wait a while? When I push my buttom next to my lights, the ones I depress 4 times to shut the headlights off during the daytime... shouldnt that make for 0V across it as well?

Sioux Falls SD. Turns out, my toggle switches to my amps that I run off my headlamp used to shut off when the dome light shut off after closing the door... one of the timer ones that wait 30 seconds then slowly fade. Now the toggles stay on after the dome light shuts off, my amps ( not the 4 AP30001ds, just the 2 KX850.42, KX650.4, and SX500.2... not near as bad as when the subs were working) stay on all night Now I get to play pilot to air ststems control flipping switches and more switches every time I get in and out :-P "Air traffic control, tweets fired up, mids a go, Extremis ready to get extreme... PLAY!"

Instead of having to look it up myself, what are the basics with them... 3/4" or 1" slugs? 3 or 4? Diameter? Coul... 3" or 4"? Flat copper... 4 layer or 8 layer? What is the Bl on these badboys... I'm no wizz with Thiele/Small but just wondering overall motor strength. I assume several stiff spiders... 9" or larger on a TC Sounds basket?