spare69

well im in the middle of a big install right now, and i ran out of fuses. I have the 2 fuseblocks for the amps, but no fuses.....fail......i thought id get away with it one more day without them

I put it at full tilt with my voltage meter on it....multiple times, 2 different meters....read the same thing.......Im not a dumbass who thinks he can put that much power on a stock system......im just stating what ive personally seen and wittnessed with my car....

I just tried hooking it up in my friends car to make sure it wasnt some other problem and it did the same thing. I also opened up the amplifier and i didnt smell anything nor see any physical problems.

I have the main power wires going to the battery in the back. There is where the amp power wires come from. But the power wire for the amp is not fused....

im at 2 yellowtops and stock alt currently. But my voltage isnt dropping below 13.5 atm at full tilt....wierd i know but legit My 2 runs of power wire from the front battery is of corse fused btw

well i mean, I had the hifonics 2500.1 hooked up at 0.5 ohm as daily for almost a year and no problems at all, and it has the same board as the brz1700. But yea ill check the ground out maybe i could get lucky. I hope so....

My amplifier randomly went into protect last night after i started the car, everything is hoked up right. This morning i unplugged the sub and it was still in protect, so i know it isnt the subwoofer. Then i unplugged the RCAS and it was still in protect. Then i redid the remote wire and restarted my HeadUnit and was still in protect......The Amplifier is a Hifonics BRZ 1700.1, They dont come fused and i did not have a fuse on it. Im also running it at 0.5 ohm. Im thinking its blown but im not sure. BTW it can handle 0.5 ohm no problem.....

WTB Alternator Bracket for a 1999 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.7L v8. Anything that will hold anywhere from 2-4 alternators that fits my vehicle. Any help would be appreciated!

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I hooked my amplifier after having it sit in my room for a couple months up to my car today and the protection light came on for a split second, then the green light came on after 15 secs or so of no light at all. It was hella wierd. I tryed it again, and now the red light blinks for a split second but then no lights at all. I can hear the amp turn on, but it has no light or power. I opened it up and didnt see any physical problems with the board (blown fuses, smell, etc...) Any ideas what it might be? Im positive it has nothing to do with RCA's or speaker wire. I know for a fact it is something to do with the Amplifier. Its a Power Acoustik 1.4000D Please no smart comments about the fact its a Power acoustik......It's an old amp im trying to get rid of...

FI PLEASE RESPOND !

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I ordered a recone and found that i didnt have the money for shipping to the facility, I need to cancel my order for my recone kit and get a refund. I have full intentions to recone the subwoofer, just not right now.

Sold

I got a Power Acoustik 4000 watt MONO amp for sale. I got this from a friend and have no use for it. Im selling it for $110 shipped. Lemme know if you want it!!! PM ME! RMS Power Rating: 4 Ohms: 1200 Watts x 1 Channel 2 Ohms: 1700 Watts x 1 Channel 1 Ohms: 2200 Watts x 1 Channel [*]Max power output: 4000 watts x 1 channel [*]Input Sensitivity: 200mV-6V [*]THD %: 0.20% [*]Full regulated PWM MOSFET power supply [*]Three way protection circuitry [*]Front Panel Connections & Controls [*]Direct Input 4 ga. Power & 8 ga. Speaker Terminals [*]Top Panel Status Indicators [*]Jet Black Texture Coat Finish [*]Adjustable Tuned Bass EQ (0-18 dB Bass Boost) [*]Hi-Speed digital circuitry [*]Full selectable crossover (HI,Full,Low) [*]1-Ohm Stable Class D Monoblock [*]Die-cast aluminum heat sink designed for massive heat dissipation from three sides of the amplifier [*]Heavy duty aluminum alloy heatsink or High-density split-dome convection heat sink for extreme heat dissipation [*]Platinum-plated RCA level inputs [*]Platinum-plated screw terminals [*]Variable low-pass crossover filter: 40-200 Hz, 24 dB/octave [*]Variable subsonic crossover filter: 20-50 Hz [*]Variable subwoofer bass boost EQ @ 45 Hz [*]Phase Control: 180 degree [*]Remote Gain Control Included [*]Frequency response: 20-200 Hz [*]Signal to Noise Ratio: 100 dB [*]Fusing: (3) 40 [*]Dimensions: 13.77" x 8.26" x 2.16"

I got a Power Acoustik 4000 watt MONO amp for sale. I got this from a friend and have no use for it. Im selling it for $110 shipped. Lemme know if you want it!!! PM ME! 4000W Max Monoblock Class D Amplifier Car Amplifier RMS Power Rating: 4 ohms: 1200 watts x 1 chan. 2 ohms: 1700 watts x 1 chan. 1 ohm: 2200 watts x 1 chan. [*]Max power output: 4000 watts x 1 chan. [*]Fully regulated PWM power supply [*]Wired remote bass level control included [*]System distress indicator [*]Four way protection circuit [*]Adjustable Tuned Bass EQ (0-18 dB Bass Boost) [*]Hi-Speed digital circuitry [*]Full selectable crossover (HI,Full,Low [*]1-Ohm Stable [*]Full selectable crossover (HI,Full,Low) [*]Die-cast aluminum heat sink designed for massive heat dissipation from three sides of the amplifier [*]Heavy duty aluminum alloy heatsink or High-density split-dome convection heat sink for extreme heat dissipation [*]Platinum-plated RCA level inputs [*]Platinum-plated screw terminals [*]Variable low-pass filter (40-200 Hz, 24 dB/octave) [*]Variable subsonic filter (20-50 Hz) [*]Variable subwoofer EQ @ 45 Hz [*]Frequency response: 20-200 Hz [*]Signal to Noise Ratio: 100 dB [*]Dimensions: 13-3/4"L x 8-1/4"W x 2-1/8"H

500 In the end MAX prefer'd to get the BRZ's so i could ust get 1 of them now and another later ya kno?

I had my hifonics 2500d running at 0.5 ohms on a stock electrical besides the yellowtops and it ran awesome. didnt overheat and gave clear sound...

LOL!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! NORTONS IS HELLA GAY AND THEY HAE NO IDEA HOW TO DO CAR AUDIO. I actually talked with an installer there at my gym, and he was trying to tell me some major bull about amperage and crap....

Yea i was thinking about that, but if you consider that wiring 2 subs at 1 ohm for 1 amp, compared to running 2 amps and having both of them wired at 0.5 ohms, i could get louder. I agree with yuo though about the power hunger. I was thinking about getting some kinetiks for that idk

yea i was thinking 2 BRZ2400 or maybe just 1700's

Ive got 2 FI BL 12's fully loaded, a 275 amp alt, and 2 yellow tops. My question is.......would it be better (louder) to run 2 amplifiers linked to the subs? OR would it work better to have an amp per sub? And if i did amp per sub....how would i tune them together without buying anything. Im asking this because ive been looking at this Hifonics BRZ2400 and it looks like a wiener

Ive heard that aswell, cant confirm it but makes sense to me lol

hey man im running a very similar setup atm. but i have my BTL12 at 0.5 ohm. It can handle it and sounds much better. Trust me you can handle it at stock. My jeep is full stock with big 3 and 2 yellows in the back

LOL ok i get it now thanks lol. Your Awesome! XD