Dr Durden

As in the worthless paper called the US Dollar? Those dollars? Imagine what it would be like if you had 100,000 of them and they actually meant something. As in, they weren't borrowed to us (AT PRIME) by the Federal Reserve like they are.

Sadly, no. Not that has been reported yet. Even worse, the album has almost went gold (500,000 copies) in the first three days of sales. I returned mine and got my money back....so, subtract at least one. My poor speakers are still reeling with anger towards me.

If you're not aware, Metallica's new CD is absolutely heinous in the recording production, mixing and sound quality department. It's obnoxiously loud and, to many who understand what properly mastering music really is, can only be considered noise - not music. It's another tragic victim of what many refer to as the which has been raging since the early 90's.So, there's a call for it to be remastered and even an online petition. Sign it, please....for all that is holy and good in this world: http://www.gopetition.co.uk/petitions/re-m...h-magnetic.html A few articles mentioning fan's disgust: http://videogames.yahoo.com/feature/metall...ar-hero/1247989 http://www.rollingstone.com/rockdaily/inde...n-cd/#more-7581 Anyway, if you've heard it, you know what I'm talking about. If you run the tracks through analysis software (Sony Sound Forge, for example) you can get a visual picture of how ugly it really is. On a few songs, it's pushed so loud that music, which is supposed to be there, is gone. It's clipped off the top. The mountains are flat, kids and they are not beautiful. The good news for Metallica fans is that the album version used for Activision's Guitar Hero III is actually done right: http://blog.wired.com/music/2008/09/does-metallicas.html Here's a visual of the ugliness - CD version of "The Day That Never Comes": The song is actually clean at 0 dB, but clips 26 times at just .5 dB down. Since a change in .5 dB is inaudible, the music will sound horribly distorted if one attempts to play it at loud volume as the RMS is only -7 dB. This means, loud, flat, yucky noise as described in the Loudness War video above. As a comparison, most songs on the Black album are around -15 dB RMS (half as loud to our ears). Don't dispair, there is hope!! Here's the same song on the GH3 version: Ahhhh, now were talkin'! The track is squeakly clean and doesn't show clipping until at least a 12% threshold (or -18 dB RMS)! Plus, the RMS is - 19 dB. On an A-weighted scale, the CD version is over twice as loud (a change in 10 dB is equal to doubling the relative loudness). The sound is dynamic, crisp and punchy...the way it was laid down in the recording studio without the engineers blasting the monitor gain. Finally, here's an actual audio clip of "The Day That Never Comes" - the CD version compared to the properly done Guitar Hero III version. Listen carefully to the snare hits and cymbals: If you're a Metallica fan and are disgusted in what you see and hear, please sign the petition and make your voice known. I have absolutely NO connection to any of the parties involved with it, I'm just sick of the garbage quality of music these bands think they can get away with these days.

Any push or pull exercise... Push ups Pull ups Cable work - push, pull, you name it Bent over row Overhead barbell or dumbell work I could name 50 exercises.... You don't get stronger using Nautilus machines, you just get imbalanced strength.

LMAO. No way! You didn't just say that, did you?!?!? Dooooood, midbass addicts definitely think alike because I bump that track alllll the time. If you don't have Audionut'z 80's collection, you must get it! Obviously, it's on there. A little Earth, Wind and Fire is money, too.

Sir, yessir! Yes, very demanding of a proper install. I've never been one to decouple a driver, so lots of mass in the right places is critical................and time consuming......and expensive. But hey, it's all for that thud good enough to send you into V-Fib, right????

Yep, and I agree they really fill-out. I really like them at 50hz with a 24dB/oct slope in my car which gives them that fast attack and impact. Same slope on the sub, but then gap it down to 40 hz. Going to put north of 400w on them again. Whatcha think about that, sir?

My opinion of the "best" in-home piece of cardio equipment.... http://www.concept2.com/us/indoorrowers/e_home.asp Find a used one?

Got ya. I figured they had to breathe somehow. You could always do a trailer install and pull that around, too. What do you say, ******88888888888888888888888888888888888888888888888841-94? HA!

So do they vent down the sill and up the pillar? It appears you done choked them, Brooksie. Do tell. Also, you need to fix your sig man. Shouldn't it be.... 88888888888841-14 ??

Think even denser and heavier than concrete, though. Depending on it's shape, lead has a resonant frequency of about 10 hz. You cannot hear 10 hz. Lead is HARD to move...very hard. In order for you to hear it (according to your example) it has to move and make noise. Otherwise, sound just kind of goes right through it.

You're never really going to stop it, only attenuate it below audibility. The nature of your question has already been answered in this thread....maybe a few times. Truly killing noise takes mass. Foam has none.

Not true. Not one HU on the market puts out their rated specs because they are MAX ratings. You need to listen to 0dB tone to get that number. Do you listen to sine waves? Music is dynamic. Most of the chitty music nowdays is way too loud, but is still down 10 dB. The waveforum of the music your HU is playing drives the output voltage; it is not constant. I've never ever heard of someone over-driving their amp with pre amp voltage. I would think the input impedance is too great anyway???

That's an ignorant statement if I've ever heard one. NOTHING? Not true in the least bit.

It's probably an Alpine, so it was never there to begin with.

I have nothing but praises for RAAMat. It is an awesome product IMO. Besides, you should never let your ignorance cloud your judgement. It is a big world and we all should have choices. We are grown-ups. Not only is your recommendation out of line on a manufacturers-specific forum, but your recommendation is poor. RAAMat is not awesome. It's not BETTER than Damplifier Pro. You're wrong in many many ways. Now if you said "I've had extensive experience with both products and honstly feel RAAMmat MIGHT give Damplifier Pro a run for it's money" then that's totally different. Also, stop telling everyone to buy Ensolite for the christs sakes! Is there anything more annoying than unjustified, idiotic advice???

Where is the Hybrid forum? I thought we were in it? http://www.buwaldahybrids.com/phpBB3/index.php

Get them as close as possible, preferably down to the .1v. 3v is a big difference. You want the L and R sides of your car to match in the intensity domain (ie volume). I see no gain adjustment needed for a pair of tweeters, also. Turn it all the way down. Determine where your HU starts to clip (if it does). Use the volume to drive to output of your system, not the gain on your amplifier. If the deck doesn't clip, run it full blast and enjoy! If you're not satisfied with the output, slowly increase the gain until you are. Use your DMM to match the R and L sides of the car. Otherwise, trying to follow that formula will get you in trouble as it's horribly inaccurate. Good luck!

What do you mean by this? I don't. But, hey it's your money and your car.

No. Don't put closed cell foam in your door skins behind your drivers. At best, it will SLIGHTLY diffuse the sound making let less audible from OUTSIDE your car. And that's really stretching it.

If you can get ahold of a frequency response plot for the AA mids, then you'll have a better idea. Seas will have them on their website. With the metal dome version of the Seas Prestige, I never liked it lower than 3khz, personally. The fabric dome might do better, though.

Oh chit.... Congrats on your comp results and best of luck with the rest of the season.

Not necessalry. You might like the sound of the Pro up high better than the L1. Also, maybe the Pro has lower distortion overall and performs better in your specific install. Scott would have to answer that. Go to the Hybrid forum, there's a lot of info on this. We have a winner! One thing is the RW165 will break up something nasty above 2-3 khz, where the L6 will probably stay true up a bit higher. All depends on tuning and install.

Dood, Brooksie...you've extended your comprehensive coverage to include the passenger's side windows, right?

Generally speaking.....(God save me for using these silly terms).... SEAS mag cones: precise, clinical, lively, transparent Legatia paper cone: robust, snappy, full, edgy The RT27f is pretty good off axis. My personal favorite for A pillar monting (up to 45-60* off axis). They did a nice job with the Sonotex dome in that it can play loud and very clear and still not "spit." I keep going back to them as a reference. On the down side, they are not the most "natural" sounding tweeters out there. I think the d2904/6000 is better in that department. The L1 is a nice tweeter, but it's no Lotus. I think you pay a bit extra for a compact dome with a chambered-back, but you also get better distortion performance as well. This is where the L1Pro comes in. Personally, if you do run the L4, I see no need to put the Pro in as they can play up to 8-10k quite well.